Hi

I have removed the motor for a rebuild.

What should I do concerning the drivetrain? I am replacing the clutch, should the transmission be inspected (it works) by a specialist?
Must I balance the propshaft etc?

I am a real novice, please help.
Thank you.

Atabale,

Yes, I would go ahead and replace the front and rear U-Joints on the drive shaft - Part # is Precision 351. Or tell your auto parts store you want the U-Joint from the Sprite/Midget - these will work.

Rear Transmission seal is the same as a 520 - part # National 710324

I'll post/pm the left side/shift lever gasket and front gasket for you.

!!!!!!!!!!CAUTION!!!!!!!!!

If you turn the transmission upside down chances are the shift lever forks may fall out of position! This means it will not shift gears and you will have to pull everything out all over again. Been there, done that...like twice...



So clean up the transmission, change the rear and front seals, and paint the bottom if you like. The last two things on your to do list is to change the left side shift lever gasket and paint before mating it back up to the engine. This is so you can make one last inspection of the shift forks to make sure they are in place before sealing everything up with a new gaskets.





I have a side shift 4 speed and will post some pics for you of the shift forks and what to look for. Its a 20 minute job or less to place the shift fork back into position if the transmission is still out. So don't worry.

Correct position of forward fork inside the gate assembly-




This is totally wrong - do not do this -


Otherwise, yes, clean up the frame and the under body floor of any excess build up of oil and dirt.

I do not know where to get the rear triangular transmission mounts. So if these are bad and seperating you will need to make your new mounts from your old ones. Here's the link for the NiCo 410/411 mounts -

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/diy-bu ... mount.html

You just need to clean your old mounts up really, really nice and purchase the Flexane 94. This is an older post so the Flexane 94 is now around $76USD from Amazon.

Is your 320 left or right hand drive?

This should get you started down the round to a minimal frustration rebuild/refurbishment of the engine and transmission.

Also, I'm a firm believer in installing the transmission and engine separately and mating them up once they are in place. More on this later.

v/r
Li'l Truckie

More Photos of the Transmission can be found here on Flickr
https://www.flickr.com/photos/113742723 ... 581751194/

If you do not see a picture you are looking for, let me know the specifics you are looking for and I'll take and post the picture for you.

right hand drive

thank you for the info, you have saved me a lot of hassle, I am learning from your experience.

your humble apprentice
ab

Atabale,

Post a few pics to flickr as well as a few schematics from the 320 Parts manual for you.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/113742723 ... 581751194/

Since your 320 is RH drive you have a an advantage over those LH drive models. Namely it is much easier to access the shift forks and change out the access plate gasket because the selector lever are on the opposite side from the cover.

Here's close up from my column shift for a left hand drive 320. Obviously your selector levers are on the opposite side.



If you decide to change the O-Ring gasket behind the selector levers do not, I say again DO NOT use a hammer and pound out the pins. You will need to have these pressed out. They are in there Godzilla tight and a drive pin and sledge hammer will only ruin the threads and mushroom the top of the pin. At this time I do not know where to get these pins, but currently looking through a few catalog for old Chevys and Fords to see if I can find something close.

O-Ring seals - let me get down to VB in Lenexa later this week and I'll see if some MGA/B or Sprite/Midget seals will work. I need, like 4 each myself.

Access Plate Gasket - you should be able to knock this one out yourself. Just trace the outside of the plate and then measure 3/8 inch or 7-8mm on the inside, cut out center and use a paper hole punch for the bolt holes. Yes, you can use high temp gasket sealer if you do not want make a gasket - just make sure it correct type sealant.

Front Cover, Gear Box in the bell housing is the same concept. Trace the outside of the cover and then cut out the holes on the inside with a hole punch or sharp exacto knife. Pretty simple.

Release Bearing - you have it apart, replace it. A release bearing from a MGA/Sprite/Midget will work.

Pressure Plate - Sprite/Midget will work -I have both the Pressure Plate and Throw Out bearing from a Sprite/Midget on my one '65 - no issues.

Clutch Disc - yeah, I have not found one I am comfortable with. OE has 6 springs and a few that may work only have 4 so I put my old one back in. Let me check the clutch disc from the 3-bearing MGA/MGB, pretty sure this one will work.

So give me a day or two on the MGA/Sprite/Midget parts and I let you know if the work.

In the mean time I'll work on getting the shift lever pins out so we can take a look behind the access cover.

v/r
Li'l Truckie

I Just had the clutch remanufactured by CBS Pretoria South Africa. All done for $75.
I was getting worried, the only response I got for a new Clutch was Au$700!
The nikki carb was rebuild for $70.

Best regards

ab

Heck of a deal! $700Au is a little excessive for a clutch. There is a Fiat clutch disc on eBay for $81.00 that will work on the 320.

Glad to hear you had the carburetor rebuilt, $70 is more than reasonable. I have two rebuild kits left. Just a quick note, Royze Inc. is not making the one rebuild kit for the 2C-30D -

From Classic Garage out of Brewster, NY (just north of Syracuse)

Hello Andy,

There are no more of these available. We have tried many suppliers and no one has them. Sorry to disappoint.
Also, be careful, Royze is still using part number NI-2K but it is for a different car. So only look for very old stock.
Good luck,
Stuart