Here are some addendums- They go into a little more detail (I don't take credit for it, but I believe I did spell checks and minor adjustments, maybe not )
The HandbrakeThe handbrake turn is the foundation for all tail-out action, and getting the car sideways. If you can learn how to do a handbrake turn properly, then it will be the basis for pretty much most of your thrashing skill. If not, then you will suck. Better learn. The basic instruction for doing a handbrake turn is as follows:
Drive your car in a straight line at a speed of about 35-40 km/h (20-25mph). Place your left hand on the handbrake. When you feel ready, turn the steering wheel sharply to the right with your right hand. When you feel yourself rock sideways in the chair, press the button on the handbrake in with your thumb and pull on it fairly hard, it won't need to be too hard because you're on a slick surface. Do not take your left hand off the handbrake or release the button and do not take your right hand off the steering wheel. If done properly, the whole car will spin around between 150 and 180 degrees. Remember to put the clutch in just before you stop if you're in a manual, you don't have to in a front wheel drive but it's a good habit to get into. If you don't do it and you're in a rear wheel drive..then you'll stall when you pull the handbrake on and look like a toss. It's best to be in second gear the whole time. The car will turn as far as it can and then slide to a stop. Congratulations, your first handbrake turn. Normally now is a good time to relax and let your heart rate slow down, it's a scary thing to slide out for the first time.
Now try it again, this time a little faster. Try to get the timing exactly right, if you put it on too early, you won't get all your force into the corner, and if you put it on too late, you'll just turn and then it will slide in the wrong direction, rather than just sliding around and rotating. This time it should feel a lot better. Try it several times, in each direction, left and right until you're satisfied that you can do it properly. It's best to stay with just doing these handbrake turns for at least a few weeks until you're confident that you can handle them. You'll be spinning properly in no time. As soon as you've mastered that, try taking off in the same motion. Execute the turn and keep the power down in 2nd gear, in an auto, keep it locked in 2 on the selector. Try to take off immediately following the handbrake turn (herein referred to as a "handbrakie") See if you can do it in first gear without spinning too much. Most people find first gear too low to start from after a handbrakie and just take off in 2nd with the accelerator flat to the floor. It should still spin, but much less and it will soon become useable acceleration.Well, now that that's out of the way, you can move onto the next section.
The 90-Degree TurnThe next step from here is controlling your handbrakie. Naturally, a perfectly executed handbrake turn will spin you around to nearly exactly 180 degrees. This is fun, but only useful for quick turning around and changes of direction. More realistically, the handbrake turn you will use most often is the 90 Degree Tail-Out. Most people will call this a "handbrakie around a corner" and this is essentially what it is. The 90 Degree Handbrakie can be used in a variety of situations on the real road, but is mostly useful in the wet. Dry roads can be difficult to effectively lock up the back wheels with the handbrake, but more on that later. Here's the correct technique for a 90 Degree Tail-Out, which herein will be referred to as a "90".
Like before, drive along at about 40km/h(25mph) in 2nd gear in a straight line on your field. Put your left hand on the handbrake, and your right hand on the top of the steering wheel. Just as with the handbrakie, turn the wheel sharply to the right and pull on the handbrake. The back of the car should start to swing around, so after it has really started to move, and is about 90 degrees to the way you started, quickly turn the wheel with your right hand back around in the OPPOSITE direction. You should be able to do this while actually holding the wheel, but if not, then simply push against the wheel with the palm or base of your hand and lift your fingers over the wheel as it comes into contact with them, allowing you to turn it further without lifting your hand from the wheel. The back of the car will stop sliding when you release the handbrake, so release the handbrake when the car is about 120 to 135 degrees clockwise from the direction you started off facing. Your front wheels should be facing the direction you want to go now, 90 degrees to the right of where they were when you started. The back end of the car will remain at that angle for a little pause, and then snap back in to line with the front wheels fairly quickly.
Remember not to take your hand off the handbrake, or release the button; it is essential that you can release it exactly when necessary. If it's a front wheel drive, keep the same amount of power on the whole time, and put the accelerator down a bit more when you're trying to exit the turn. If you're in a rear wheel drive, make sure to put the clutch in for while you're doing the turn and make sure your foot is OFF the accelerator when you release the clutch and the handbrake, because if you put any power down it will have the same effect as the handbrake and you'll spin around to 180 or even 270 degrees. Apply the accelerator gently after you're moving straight forwards again. This is one of the easiest and classiest tricks to do on dirt, gravel or grass. Try to do this one over and over, in each direction multiple times to get the hang of it. Try imagining you were on the road and pick a certain point as the edge of a corner that you'd like to try and swing around. You shouldn't come closer to that point than about three feet. On the road it becomes much harder, but we'll deal with bitumen later. This can also be done, in RWD only, using oversteer, which is discussed next.
Well, now that that's out of the way, you can move onto the next section.
Natural OversteerThis is where it gets harder. Natural oversteer is easily done with a RWD but is quite difficult in a FWD. We'll discuss the rear-wheel-drive technique first. RWD Natural Oversteer, or just oversteer, is a result of too much power being diverted to rear wheels that don't have enough grip to handle that power. Generally it handles a lot like a handbrake turn when it happens, the difference being that the lack of traction is obtained by excess forward force, rather than backward force. The car will slide further when you get oversteer and it will push you forward slightly. The rear wheel drive instructions are completely different to the front wheel drive instructions, so we'll cover FWD technique after RWD technique.
Rear Wheel DriveFor RWD, pick a point on your field, and drive towards it as if you were taking a normal 90-degree street intersection corner. Be in 2nd, (auto: selector to 2 or S) at about 3000 or so rpm. Just before you get next to the apex, your point, tweak the wheel even further, very sharply to the right. At the exact same time, mash the accelerator to the floor and you should feel the back wheels start to slide out. As they do, steer back the opposite way and keep the power down. You should slide out all the way and end up backwards, remember to put the clutch in. That's just to test how much the car will slide out. Now repeat the task except this time, when the back wheels slide out, steer back the opposite way and keep the power down, you can back off from the floor 'cause you won't need that much power, unless the field you're on is grippy. The car will follow the direction the front wheels are in. As soon as the back wheels are sliding out a decent amount, quickly back off and the back wheels will snap back into line with the front wheels rather quickly and harshly. This is the principle of oversteer, the more power, the further out you go. Now go back and try it a third time. Approach the corner the same way, and press the accelerator hard to make the tail (back wheels) slide out. When it has slid out a decent amount, steer back the other way to correct and take the accelerator gently off. You should drift sideways for quite a while. You can slowly release the accelerator and the tail (back wheels) will slowly drift back into line. Remember that the more throttle you give it, the more it will slide out. It's best to learn this on dirt or wet grass.
Front Wheel DriveFront Wheel Drive is a different kettle of fish altogether. It's difficult, nay, not difficult, ****ing hard to get the arse out in a FWD without the handbrake. It's the basis of my fish-tailing technique in FWD's and is a good learn for anyone. It's simple. Get up a decent amount of speed, like 60km/h on your field. Then turn to the left, and then when the weight has rocked to one side, turn so that the suspension makes the body roll significantly to the other side. Basically the trick is to get the weight distribution to rock to one side of the car, and then back to the other. You have to make it so that when it rolls back, it does it hard, so make that second turn really hard. If you want it to work well, make it three turns, to get it moving hard. That's basically the fish-tail technique, but it's a good example of oversteer without the handbrake in a FWD. The other way is to be turning around a gradual corner at a high-ish speed, 80km/h(50mph) or so, and to keep tweaking the steering wheel sharply into the corner, almost making it understeer, going to the very edge of understeer. This combination of tweaking will set the back end out, if you do it well enough. It's best to avoid natural oversteer in a FWD unless you've been thrashing one for ages.
Rear Wheel Drive on the RoadFor a dry road, approach the corner like you usually would, and then hit back to second gear, and hammer around the corner at full throttle. With any luck, the back wheels should get loose, and slide out maybe a foot or two, and come back in with a sudden jerk. If that doesn't work, then your car isn't powerful enough to do it on it's own, so you need to do some tricky clutch work to make it. What you need to do in this case is to slow down for the corner like you were going to go around it decently fast. Change down out of 3rd into 2nd and leave the clutch in. When you feel the body rock completely to one side, and you get pushed sideways in your chair, floor the accelerator and a tiny bit after, drop the clutch. The back end of the car should get very sideways. As for correcting, only tiny corrections need to be made in either situation because of the grippy nature of the road. A small correction, a tweak of the wheel back in the other direction will be more than enough to bring the tail in, in most situations. The worst thing you can do is correct too much because it will cause the car to snap back the other way because of over-correction. This is dangerous and uncontrollable, and should be avoided.
Front Wheel Drive on the RoadNatural oversteer on the road in a FWD is nearly impossible. I've only ever done it once, and that was by accident. The only way to get oversteer in a FWD on the road is with the handbrake. The technique is identical to the 90 on dirt or grass, turn, get the body roll and weight transfer, use the handbrake, back off it and simultaneously correct. Simple. The important thing to remember is that if the back wheels do keep going, you've got no way of bringing them back, so be careful. On a dry road, you will require a VERY harsh and quick pull on the handbrake, and some hefty steering to get the back end out. If it doesn't lock up back wheels, reach for the brake pedal cause you'll need to stop in a hurry if you've committed to the turn. In the wet, the back will go easily and quickly. It won't require much to make it get loose and once it is, it will slide easily, so take the handbrake off a little earlier than you might normally. I scared a local conservative woman, you know the kind, the ones that are always "up in arms" about something, be it music, or the 'net, or cars, or food or something. She **** her pants. I laughed. She backs away from the sidewalk when I drive past now. It's one of the most rewarding things that can ever happen, having a moralist deliberately avoid you.
If the road is wet, however, that's another situation entirely. Wet roads are the best source of fun. The technique for getting sideways is exactly the same as with a dry road, except the water on the surface will make the rear wheels spin easily, not more easily than on the grass, but it will slide out more. Use all of the skills you learned on the grass for getting oversteer on a wet road. Wet roads are slicker, and more consistent than dirt or grass so they make for a much smoother sideways experience. You can hold the car sideways for quite a long time in the wet if you can co-ordinate the throttle and steering properly. With the wet, you'll be able to get the back end out, and bring it back in smoothly, without so much as a jerk in the steering. Remember, you will need to correct more because you'll have more hang-time with the tail out.
Well, now that that's out of the way, you can move onto the next section, Burnouts.