Door Speakers

Forum for Infiniti M35 and M45, and Nissan Fuga owners.
pangpang77
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Door Speakers

Postby pangpang77 » Fri Oct 02, 2009 4:23 am

I have the Adv. Tech with 14 speakers. I'd like to get some sound improvement without spending too much. After some research I settled on replacing the 4 door speakers with the Infinity 6032si:

http://www.amazon.com/Infinity...r=8-1

Question is, if I install these, because it's two-way with a built-in tweeter, will it interfere with the existing tweeters on the M? Would there be a need to disconnect the factory tweeter? Any issues in having a few more tweeters? Any possibility it would sound worse because of that?


NightWatch
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Re: Door Speakers (pangpang77)

Postby NightWatch » Fri Oct 02, 2009 4:51 am

Owners with the Bose sound systems (either the 8 or the 14) are going to have a tough time replacing speakers as Bose has a habit of producing 2 ohm speakers. Most replacement speakers are at least 4 ohm. Recommend you speak with a sound tech before trying to replace them as you may not get the desired results, or worse yet, you may damage the amp.

pangpang77
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Re: Door Speakers (NightWatch)

Postby pangpang77 » Fri Oct 02, 2009 4:59 am

NightWatch wrote:Owners with the Bose sound systems (either the 8 or the 14) are going to have a tough time replacing speakers as Bose has a habit of producing 2 ohm speakers. Most replacement speakers are at least 4 ohm. Recommend you speak with a sound tech before trying to replace them as you may not get the desired results, or worse yet, you may damage the amp.
The Infinitys are 2-ohm. According to Crutchfield they will fit sizewise. Will that be good enough?

EniGmA1987
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Re: Door Speakers (pangpang77)

Postby EniGmA1987 » Fri Oct 02, 2009 6:19 am

I would try and find the specs on the Bose speakers in the doors. Match the Ohms, and try to get close in matching the SPL @ 1w/1m, that will give you the same volume as the bose speakers.

More ohms = less power to speaker = less volume.lower SPL @1w = less volume per turn of the knob compared to the other speakershigher SPL @ 1w = more volume per turn of the knob in relation to the other speakers.

dorlandm
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Re: Door Speakers (pangpang77)

Postby dorlandm » Fri Oct 02, 2009 7:41 am

You are correct. They are 6 1/2" (adapter needed) and they are 2 ohms. NOW, has ANYONE actually changed out these door speakers without changing the amp or head unit? We are interested in just the speaker upgrade info. Yes an amp and sub in trunk would make a nice difference but I did that in my '04 M45 and it took up most of the trunk. It sounded good but way too much for a civilized gentlemen such as I is!

so, has anyone done the speaker change out and what were the results? One guy did driver side speaker only and was slightly impressed but never posted all four speaker results. I am doing it this weekend to my 2007 m35x with the 14 speaker suround sound using the Infinity referance 6022si 6 1/2" units at all four corners. I am putting Fatmat sound deadener in as well but basically just the speakers to replace the Bose paper (thin) speakers.

pangpang77 and I just want a little more high end fidelity from our M's systems, not interested in the $ 2G awesomeness that the local stereo shop could do! We know, you get what you pay for but what about just the speakers
Modified by dorlandm at 7:08 AM 10/6/2009

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rsg123
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Postby rsg123 » Fri Oct 02, 2009 10:27 am

Please take pictures during the install. My rear right door speaker is rattling and I would like to visually know how it comes apart.

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Nemesis23
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Postby Nemesis23 » Fri Oct 02, 2009 11:40 am

I actually bought JL audio Clean sweep and I have a 4 channel Alpine amp and 4 JL audi0 XR 650 CSis and my Sirius and the Pax Ipod integration sitting around waiting to be installed. So I can tell you guys how it will sound with the speakers replaced once I have them installed.

pangpang77
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Re: Door Speakers (dorlandm)

Postby pangpang77 » Fri Oct 02, 2009 11:52 am

Yes, please let us know how it goes. Also see how much difference the Fatmat makes. I had an Acura MDX and by just replacing the 4 door speakers it was night and day, at the time about 5 years ago it was also an Infiniti 651, which I would assume after a few years the 6022/6032 should be even nicer.

Backdoc7
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Re: Door Speakers (dorlandm)

Postby Backdoc7 » Fri Oct 02, 2009 7:14 pm

dorlandm wrote:You are correct. They are 6 1/2" (adapter needed) and they are 2 ohms. NOW, has ANYONE actually changed out these door speakers without changing the amp or head unit? We are interested in just the speaker upgrade info. Yes an amp and sub in trunk would make a nice difference but I did that in my '04 M45 and it took up most of the trunk. It sounded good but way too much for a civilized gentlemen such as I is!

so, has anyone done the speaker change out and what were the results? One guy did driver side speaker only and was slightly impressed but never posted all four speaker results. I am doing it this weekend to my 2007 m35x with the 14 speaker suround sound using the Infinity referance 6022si 6 1/2" units at all four corners. I am putting Fatmat sound deadener in as well but basically just the speakers to replace the Bose paper (thin) speakers.

pangpang77 and I just want a little more high end fidelity from our M's systems, not interested in the $ 2G awesomeness that the local stereo shop could do! We know, you get what you pay for but what about just the speakers

I will post my experience monday.

PLUS: I found the color code for the wires so I think.LF + Red/Blue - WhiteRF + Pink or Brown - Blue or redLR + light green/purple - light blueRR + yellow - pink

Hope that helps for anyone trying this project.
Looking fwd to a report of the results! good luck!

dorlandm
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Re: Door Speakers (Backdoc7)

Postby dorlandm » Mon Oct 05, 2009 2:49 am

Okay, I replaced all four door speakers ( 6 1/2") with Infinity Referance 6022si speakers and it sounds better! Not WOW better but noticable without adding wattage. The stock speakers look and feel pathetic. The door panels come off easy with the two screws behind the pull out panel under the handle and one behind the plastic shield of the door pull. Then the clips just pull out/off and unplug all the lights etc... The speakers are wired from the outside of the actual metal door panel so you have to cut the plug off and re route the wires to the inside of the door panel. No big deal even for a novice. The one concern I had was which wire was positive? I ASSUMED (always dangerous to assume) that the positive was the striped wires and the negative was the solid? Love feedback on that if anyone knows for sure.

Then the speaker mounts went in easy with two stock screws/holes and the third one I had to drill a new hole and put a metal screw in there. Again not a big deal. Then I put some FATMAT (sound deadener) where I could or should I say where I could reach. These doors are pretty solid meaning you cannot easily get to the inside or back side of the doors. The front of the actual metal door can be done but you have to be careful not to cover up screw holes you will need later or to make it too thick as to not clear the door panel. In hind sight, I would suggest taking the fabric (looks like white fluffy cotton) off the door panels themselves and fatmat the door panel then put the cotton fabric sound deadener or whatever that is back on. But I did put the FATMAT on the ares that were obvious and on metal pieces that over lapped one another to keep vibration down. It is rather hard to get into the door panel itself and a spray undercoating might work but it just looked too risky for getting it all over things you do not want it on.

So, after I got it all buttoned back up and hit the volume, I immediately noticed a bump in the base and a lot in the midrange/high end range! As we have said, big base will have to come from a sub somewhere else in the car. But for a few bucks ($140 for all 4 door speakers at Crutchfield) I would say it was worth it! The door panels came off easily and went on looking Factory fresh so no downside to the project.

The FATMAT project will continue in the back seat area where I will do the back of the back seat not just under the sitting area or floor.

I will let you know how that goes. PS There are some small speakers to both sides of the rear decklid sub that I could hear when I was testing the new door speakers and I would say that they could use a update as well. They were so weak it sounded like earbuds! I love my M35 with the Adv. Tech Pkg. but the 2004 FX35 we had made this system sound like dirt. Hard to believe for $50G they put those speakers in with so little wattage!

dorlandm
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Re: (rsg123)

Postby dorlandm » Mon Oct 05, 2009 5:32 am

Hi There rsg123:

I would have taken pictures but I do not know how to up load them easily so I dod not take pics. BUT... It is easy to take the door panel off and the speaker comes right out after you unbolt the 10MM bolts that hold it in. You do have to pry it off the door due to some gasketing material, but no big deal. The rattle, does it sound like the speaker is shot or physically loose?

mark

pangpang77
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Re: (dorlandm)

Postby pangpang77 » Mon Oct 05, 2009 8:10 am

dorlandm,

What I did notice is the best test for the sound upgrade is the Armrest DVD player, where the sound is usually the fullest even for CDs. Can you try to pop in a DVD movie and see what the experience is?

Thanks for taking the plunge. I'm inclined to try it, debating whether to do it myself, taking it to Best Buy or to a higher end installer, where I'm going to be doing some additional work on headrest monitors...

pang

dorlandm
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Re: (pangpang77)

Postby dorlandm » Mon Oct 05, 2009 10:02 am

I ran my Journey DVD that same day after the install and it was much loader, better. The DVD is the lowest volume device I have heard in the car. Meaning the Radio (XM) the CD player and the DVD player are louder then the DVD player. So, to answer the ? it is better.

I think the speakers alone are worth the upgrade and if the audio shop will do it for cheap (under $100-150) I would save yourself the headache and have them do it. Otherwise it was very easy to do taking 3 - 4 hours all total and not rushing.

This next weekend I will do more FATMAT and the 2 small rear deck speakers and report back.

Mark

pangpang77
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Re: (dorlandm)

Postby pangpang77 » Mon Oct 05, 2009 10:23 am

Mark,

Just one last question. One of my buddies is an audio installer (home) and suggested that I should be careful that swapping out the 4 door speakers that I do not change the sound stage for the 14-speaker system. In reality, the Ms 14 speakers has amazing sound stage factory and as you especially the movies come out phenomenal.

Any worries there?

The video/audio shop is going to charge 75-90 per pair.

Thanks!Dan

zangler
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Re: (dorlandm)

Postby zangler » Mon Oct 05, 2009 10:39 am

very interesting and seems really inexpensive to do...my only concern is that i would screw up the taking the door paneling on/off steps...

when it comes to bolts/screws/wires...that kind of thing i am fine...but when it comes to trim, panel clips...sticky gasketing...i tend to screw up...do you have tech sheets with how to get it off and back on with no problems? or photos? (i know you did not take your own...just wondering if you found any).

thanks!

Backdoc7
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Re: (dorlandm)

Postby Backdoc7 » Mon Oct 05, 2009 10:42 am

dorlandm wrote:I ran my Journey DVD that same day after the install and it was much loader, better. The DVD is the lowest volume device I have heard in the car. Meaning the Radio (XM) the CD player and the DVD player are louder then the DVD player. So, to answer the ? it is better.

I think the speakers alone are worth the upgrade and if the audio shop will do it for cheap (under $100-150) I would save yourself the headache and have them do it. Otherwise it was very easy to do taking 3 - 4 hours all total and not rushing.

This next weekend I will do more FATMAT and the 2 small rear deck speakers and report back.

Mark
good job Mark! thanks for reporting back.. did the rear seat come out easily? have you taken the rear back part of the seat out yet, or is that this weekends project.. good luck and take notes!

dotsad
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Re: Door Speakers (dorlandm)

Postby dotsad » Mon Oct 05, 2009 12:10 pm

dorlandm wrote: The one concern I had was which wire was positive? I ASSUMED (always dangerous to assume) that the positive was the striped wires and the negative was the solid? Love feedback on that if anyone knows for sure.
I would assume "LG" and "B/Y" are color schemes. If thats the case, then you got yourself a +/- diagram.


dorlandm
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Re: Door Speakers (dotsad)

Postby dorlandm » Tue Oct 06, 2009 3:28 am

Thank you for the Dieagram. I hooked few up (like 3) wrong! OOPS! Wwll tonight I will switch them and see what difference that makes! I figured the striped wire was positive. It is negative. Therefore 3 of four speakers are hooked up backwards and it still sounds better. I will be back to you all first thing tomorrow to give feedback!

As for the door panels coming off, it is easy. Just gently pry the little trap door under the pull handle of eash door, take out both 10MM bolts then pry the little black panel from behind the door pull up top (the chrome handle that opens the door) and go from nearest the chrome pull itself and pry it forward. The hook system is a hook nearest the dash so go from nearest the door lock towards the dash and it will come right out. Take that 10MM bolt out and gently pry the door panel off from the bottom toawrds the sides. The door panel should then just lift up and off. The wires/plugs are short so take time to be mindful of that but just unplug them and off the door panels come. They go back on real easy just don't force anything.

The speakers are stuck on due to the gasket on them but they pull right off. As for the FATMAT, the bottom of the back seat pulls right out with two ring tabs that you pull to disconnect them and then the back seat lifts right out. The back of the back seat is bolted in but looks easy enough to pull out.

as for the speakers themseves, I got 2 OHM speakers like the factory bose so they should only sound better and perform better without throwing the balance of the system off.

Mark

dorlandm
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Re: Door Speakers (dotsad)

Postby dorlandm » Tue Oct 06, 2009 4:13 am

Looks like the color codes are:B=blackw=WhiteR=RedG=GreenL=BlueY=YellowLG=Light GreenBR=BrownOR or O = OrangeP=pinlPU=purpleGY or GR=graySB=Sky BlueCH=Dark BrownDG=Dark GreenThe striped wires are B/Y or Black and yellow with the stripe being the secvond color

dorlandm
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Re: Door Speakers (dotsad)

Postby dorlandm » Tue Oct 06, 2009 4:15 am

Hi DOTSAD

Where did you get this diagram and/or is it for M35 2007? Reason I ask is that my wires (As I remember them) are not exactly these colors. That said, if the solid wire is Positive then I have some work to do.

Mark

dorlandm
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Re: Door Speakers (dotsad)

Postby dorlandm » Tue Oct 06, 2009 4:23 am

This is where I got my original info:2007 Infiniti M35 Car Stereo Wiring Diagram

Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: YellowCar Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: PurpleCar Radio Ground Wire: BlackCar Radio Illumination Wire: RedCar Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/ACar Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/ACar Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/ACar Stereo Amplifier Location: Under the rear deck on the drivers side.Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/ACar Audio Front Speakers Location: N/ALeft Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red/BlueLeft Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): WhiteRight Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink or BrownRight Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue or RedCar Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/ACar Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/ALeft Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green/purpleLeft Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): YellowRight Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Pink

BUT... I think it is off somewhat. I am unsure about the colors for +/- sorry to confuse the issue. Is there a simple way to test the wires?

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rsg123
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Re: (dorlandm)

Postby rsg123 » Tue Oct 06, 2009 5:21 am

dorlandm wrote:Hi There rsg123:

I would have taken pictures but I do not know how to up load them easily so I dod not take pics. BUT... It is easy to take the door panel off and the speaker comes right out after you unbolt the 10MM bolts that hold it in. You do have to pry it off the door due to some gasketing material, but no big deal. The rattle, does it sound like the speaker is shot or physically loose?

mark
It's hard to say. The sound coming from the speaker is good, but when the bass hits there is a rattle. So maybe a loose speaker or other door component. I will open it up and see.

dotsad
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Re: Door Speakers (dorlandm)

Postby dotsad » Tue Oct 06, 2009 6:05 am

dorlandm wrote:Hi DOTSADWhere did you get this diagram and/or is it for M35 2007? Reason I ask is that my wires (As I remember them) are not exactly these colors. That said, if the solid wire is Positive then I have some work to do.Mark
Hi, i got it of the service manuals for M35/45 2006. Bear in mind, this diagram is for an entertainment package ( 14 speakers ), so without it wiring might be different.

Anyway, manuals are here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/M/

2006: av.pdf page 1962007: av.pdf page 192

but from what i can see, they are identical for both years.


dotsad
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Re: Door Speakers (dorlandm)

Postby dotsad » Tue Oct 06, 2009 6:14 am

dorlandm wrote:As for the door panels coming off, it is easy. Just gently pry the little trap door under the pull handle of eash door, take out both 10MM bolts then pry the little black panel from behind the door pull up top (the chrome handle that opens the door) and go from nearest the chrome pull itself and pry it forward. The hook system is a hook nearest the dash so go from nearest the door lock towards the dash and it will come right out. Take that 10MM bolt out and gently pry the door panel off from the bottom toawrds the sides. The door panel should then just lift up and off. The wires/plugs are short so take time to be mindful of that but just unplug them and off the door panels come. They go back on real easy just don't force anything.
If you need a visual , see page #34 in this file http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/M/2006_M45-M35/ei.pdf


Backdoc7
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Re: Door Speakers (dotsad)

Postby Backdoc7 » Tue Oct 06, 2009 6:13 pm

dotsad wrote:
If you need a visual , see page #34 in this file http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/M/2006_M45-M35/ei.pdf
Nice, thanks!

pangpang77
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Re: Door Speakers (Backdoc7)

Postby pangpang77 » Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:56 pm

So I started attempting to replace the speakers myself with Infinity 6032SIs. I figure I would take pics along the way. I ended up only getting as far as one door and only the "removal" part. It's very doable, but I don't have the time in drilling and additional hole since my bracket doesn't fit, and there would need to be some rerouting of the wire. It's really no that hard, I would just need to spend a lot of time on which I don't have. So I'll have an installer do it as he will be doing some other work for me which I'll share at a little point. But hopefully the pics will be helpful for anyone trying to do it themselves.

Location of where you'll need to remove the plastic covers:









Once you remove the 3 screws, you can just "pry" the door panel by pulling on the bottom. Just make sure you don't lose any of the little soft washers that help prevent squeaking. This is what it looks like inside. There really are only two power connections you need to remove, one for the door light and one for the power windows. The one for the power windows is trickier. You'll need to use a key or a screw driver to push against a little plastic "lock/tab" to be able to remove the connector.









The two connectors:





The speaker is held together by three screws and some two-sided tape:



The factory speaker is not that flimsy, but not quite as solid as the Infinity's:

Hope this helps...

Modified by pangpang77 at 11:05 PM 10/12/2009
Modified by pangpang77 at 11:08 PM 10/12/2009

dotsad
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Re: Door Speakers (pangpang77)

Postby dotsad » Wed Oct 14, 2009 2:33 pm

Just got new speakers (Infinity Reference 6032si ) in the mail. Will be doing install over the weekend. Come back on Monday or so to see the install pictures.

Got 4 for 130$ total with shipping from here:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com....html

-p

Backdoc7
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Re: Door Speakers (dotsad)

Postby Backdoc7 » Fri Oct 16, 2009 7:34 pm

dotsad wrote:Just got new speakers (Infinity Reference 6032si ) in the mail. Will be doing install over the weekend. Come back on Monday or so to see the install pictures.

Got 4 for 130$ total with shipping from here:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com....html

-p
Dotsad, a question..Aren't the oem door speakers 2 ohm ? The ones you picked appeared to be 4 ohm.. won't that adversely affect there performance?Looking forward to the install pics and report! good luck!

pangpang77
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Re: Door Speakers (Backdoc7)

Postby pangpang77 » Sat Oct 17, 2009 2:18 am

Backdoc7 wrote:
Dotsad, a question..Aren't the oem door speakers 2 ohm ? The ones you picked appeared to be 4 ohm.. won't that adversely affect there performance?Looking forward to the install pics and report! good luck!
It's 2 ohms:

http://www.infinitysystems.com...n=USA

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07sportm35
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Re: (Backdoc7)

Postby 07sportm35 » Sat Oct 17, 2009 3:13 pm

Backdoc7 wrote:
good job Mark! thanks for reporting back.. did the rear seat come out easily? have you taken the rear back part of the seat out yet, or is that this weekends project.. good luck and take notes!
Backdoc7, I am going to order Infinti 62.9I off of ebay. They can be had for $65 shipped. What we need in our cars with the stock amplifiers are efficient 2 ohm speakers. The 62.9I's are at 95dB which is the best I have seen. Furthermore the frequency response goes down to 45Hz and they can handle 75 watts rms(overkill with the weak factory amp). The efficiency is key because you want to keep the volume as low as possible for a given SPL. Why? Because the factory amplifier will produce more distortion (mostly harmonic distortion) as it is pushed harder/higher volume.

Next I'm going to order tweeters. The Infiniti REF1031T's seem to fit the bill. They are 2ohms and have a lower frequency response than most tweeters (down to 2500Hz)(93dB efficient). My guess is factory tweeters go down pretty low because of the 2 inch size.

I will run everything without crossovers seeing as tho the Bose system takes care of the frequency distribution. The tweeters can be had for $50 shipped off of e-bay. Total cost is only $115 since I'm doing the job myself.

From what I can hear the factory tweeters produce some pretty good distortion at medium high volumes. It is important that the tweeters are able to take over where the 6.5's leave off in terms of frequency(I would guess 2KHz). That means they need to go as low as possible.

Without getting to technical I'm going to hook my system to a spectrum analyzer. That way I'll be able to see the frequency distribution between the 6.5's and the tweeters. I'll just unhook one or the other and see what happens on the analyzer. A spectrum analyzer allows you to "freeze" frequencys on a display and look at their individual amplitudes/power/SPL. It is kinda the opposite of a oscilloscope. Oscilloscopes freeze "time" and allow you to look at a wave form. The oscope is a "time" domain device, and the spectrum analyzer is a "frequency" domain device. Time and frequency have a interesting relationship. 1/frequency = time. I'm not trying to sound smart but I hope you find it as interesting as I do. I'll throughly explain it over a cup of java some day my friend.

Car audio is a art. What I'm going to try to do is significantly improve the sound for under $150. I'll report back the results soon. Any feedback from the car audio folks is appreciated.

BTW Excellent write uup pangpang7


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