I need a little help, when upgrading the front tweeters on the bose 14 speaker system which color wires are neg and pos?

I haven't taken the door apart yet because of the weather but I would like to install the tweeters on the next warmer day (above 35 degrees).

Thanks, Freddie

Hi Freddie,

Bye Freddie!

DG

I also upgraded the door speaker last night and i got to say it is worth the money, now my system is complete man what a diference from stock and i was runing a 4 channel to the stock speakers now with this infinitys its on a hole new level...

Good to know

The Infinity speakers are very popular.

so after reading 3 pages worth of info here is what i comprehend so far

front and rear speaker choice: either JBP or Infinity at 2omhs
tweeter: not sure as no one posted anything whether brand or model/spec

sound improvement: drastically "different" compare to stock - pressumingly "better"

installation complexity: easy to moderate depending on skill and the ability to read color

so questions:

can anyone post their tweeter speaker that they use to swap out the stocker? any picture or installation tips?

I just bought the speakers on Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002C8 ... os_product
$51.70 a pair with shipping included.
Just in case anyone is interested.

BlackKnight wrote:I just bought the speakers on Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002C8 ... os_product
$51.70 a pair with shipping included.
Just in case anyone is interested.

Thanks for the link!

Just ordered 2 sets. I can't believe I waited this long to try to upgrade the speakers.

So I was about to purchase the Infinity Reference 6032si, but the amazon only has 3.5 stars rating for them.
The Polk Audio DB651 on the other hand have better reviews (almost 5 stars) and seem to fit while priced only $8 more.

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-6-5-In ... &carId=004

Can you guys help me make a choice?

Btw, my left side rear speaker has pretty bad distortion on lower frequencies and that's why I am looking to replace the rear ones only. Would that be ok? I am a complete noob when it comes to car electronics.

Those Polk's should work fine. If you look at the ratings though both the Polk and Infinity's have pretty much the same ratings, just more people have bought those Polk speakers. Both seem to have the same type of complaint, not enough bass. Which these are not really designed for low end anyway so that is kinda expected. But it seems some people are dissapointed with the lack of low end either of these choices have. Thats what our sub is for though. One thing to note is that the Polk Audio speakers are technically rated to go lower, although both sets of speakers will not actually go down as low as they are rated.

Polk is more known for its "airy" high end than anything else, and these door speakers wont go really far into the high range because that is what the tweeters are for in the car. At least, I would *hope* that Bose was smart enough to implement a crossover in their system rather than just sending full range signal and expecting the speakers to roll off at their own frequency range...


For tweeters many people get these:
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Referenc ... pd_sim_e_6
but these here would also probably work very well and would probably be what I would get:
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Polyme ... =pd_cp_e_1


Although it is not required, it is considered good practice to get speakers and tweeters that are matched to each other sonically. So if you get the Polk 6.5" speakers then you should probably get the Polk tweeters if you upgrade those. If you get the Infinity 6.5" speakers then you should probably go with the Infinity tweeters.

Sorry to dig this one up, but I thought I would chime in since I'm in the middle of this upgrade. I'm doing the Infinity 6032si's in the front, as well as the 1032 infinity tweeters. My concern is that with the tweeter in the coaxial AND the tweeters in the door sails, the sound is going to be too bright. What I plan on doing, is to cover up the coax tweeters with electrical tape to block those highs from reaching my ears. Yeah, not as effective as disconnecting the tweeter from the rest of the coax, but upon inspection I didn't see an easily reversible way of doing this and more importantly, I'm not sure what effect this will have on impedance. Covering the tweeter solves both problems.

I have the stock amp driving the speakers in the cab, and a Polk 500W amp driving a 12" Alpine RS in a sealed box. I also removed the 10" stock sub. Actually, the sound is pretty dang good for a stock system (I have the 14 speaker system), and adding the sub made it listenable. Removing the 10" stock sub made a big difference too...and opening up the ski pass makes it sound great. I might have left the stock door speakers alone if it wasn't for a rattle coming from the passenger side when the music is turned up.

I'll post my impressions later tonight when I can get back at it. Back to work for now.

i actually want to see what you did with the tweeters and how the hook up is all about. i'm still contemplating whether i want to add in a sub. honestly, with the infiniti upgrade speakers, sound is pretty good when i play a cd or mp3 or dvd but frikin crappy FM is still CRAP ....

Okay..all done. I've only done some quick listening...nothing extended yet. That will come in a few hours while I'm headed to work. The first door took a while because everything was new to me, but the second door went quick, probably about 15 minutes total.
I was impatient, but you could most likely mount the tweeters using the stock bracket. I didn't go this route and just used the holes from the Infinity mount. One lined up, the other, not so much. Although, if you screwed only one of the two screws in it should be sufficient to keep it in place. I'm not advocating that!

Anyways, on my 2006, the driver side door had at least 4 harnesses to undo. The driver side only had 2. Taking the door trim off is really easy, but when you pop out the panel do it slow, and don't close the door at all if the plastic pins aren't lined up with their holes....you'll snap em right off. Ask me how I know.

I did the driver side first, then did a quick audition to compare the new speakers versus stock. BIG difference as far as clarity. It's brighter now without being harsh. The highs..whether it be a symbol or what not are VERY discernable, where the stock speakers give it a hazy..muddy sound. Now, mind you I was pretty impressed with the stock Bose sound. No, it wasn't on par with a decent after market set up, but I could've lived with it, if it wasn't for the rattle the passenger woofer had. Now that I've done the upgrade, I'm SO glad I did. It was worth it. The sound stage has risen up and I am plan to be thoroughly impressed during my drive to work in a few. I think covering up the tweeters on the coaxials was a good idea...I can't image adding any more highs.

As for wiring, I used spade and butt connectors, cut the factory connection/harness and spliced in the new speakers. The whole process really was simple. You'll spend the most time on the first door, but the next one will fly by now that you know where everything is.

I didn't bother with the rear door speakers. They weren't worth the upgrade as far as I'm concerned.

BTW if you decide on putting a sub in, you can find a sub designed for a small sealed enclosure and get one of those Scosche boxes for around $30 on Amazon (and probably Ebay). Both the 10" and 12"will fit in the corner of the truck. The 10" will even squeeze into the compartment behind the passenger side quarter panel if you want to move it out of the way somewhat to regain some trunk space.

My next mod will be the iPod interface and the DVD Hack...but I will probably wait until Spring for those.

I need to do my speakers. My front passenger side one is vibrating or whatever. More like a rattle. I don't know if the 'paper' tore but it's only certain songs/frequencies. It's really annoying. And then my rear deck also rattles a bit. Anyone have any tips on getting rid of these rattles? I have my music LOUD all the time, so that's probably why it happened, but it's annoying as hell. Especially on a car this pricey.

My rear deck rattles too...I think they all do. I took the deck off once to remove the stock sub ...but didn't spend much time tracking down the rattle. I regret that. The deck removal is a MAJOR pain in the @ss. I was in a hurry to put it all back together...and honestly I have no desire to do it again.
IlyaKol, my front speaker did exactly what yours is doing...same speaker. I don't think we're alone either. Trust me, the money spent on tweeters and coaxials is worth it.

Someone mentioned in this thread or another that the best upgrade path for the front would be the tweeters alone (biggest bang for the buck). I totally agree. However, when your stock speaker is rattling, you're forced to upgrade the woofers as well.

Don't get me wrong, my music sounds perfectly fine. I could use a little more oomph, but it's no biggie. What kills me most is the rattle.

So it's definitely the speaker and not the plastics around the speaker? I was thinking of just adding some of that foam speaker padding or what not in areas to firm up the area around the speaker.

My rattle is gone with the new speakers...I'd have to go back and take a look at the door to see if there is a chance it could be that, but you'd think the rattle would still be there after the swap. I'm pretty sure it was the speaker.

I mean, they aren't terribly expensive either way. Probably wouldn't hurt to do them. Did you have to remove the whole deck for the rear speakers too or is that only for the sub?

I was at one time thinking of upgrading everything, would have cost me only like $300 for the stuff, but never got around to it.

I don't remember if I had access to the rear speakers when I removed the deck. You could probably open the trunk up, take the lining out from under the deck and see if the speakers can come out that way. I'm guessing they probably don't, and you'll have to remove the deck.

Honestly, replacing the rear door and rear deck speakers is a waste of money and time. They're only there for some background fill. The front sound stage is what's important and you will accomplish getting that up to snuff by replacing the front woofers and tweeters.

Thanks for the info.

Hello everyone. New member here.

A few questions concerning speaker replacement. I have a 2010 M35X with the Bose 7 (8?) speaker system.
I would like to replace the door speakers with Infinity 6032SI's.

Would the install in a 2010 be the same as outlined earlier in this thread? Is there an addtional spacer or adapter needed?

Any takers? Just curious if the 2010 is the same and if any speaker adapters or spacers are needed for the install.

Thanks

Most of us dont have those models of cars, and those that do havent done anything to the speakers. So I dont think anyone here knows :/ I wouldnt imagine it would be much different for the speaker mountains though, things like that tend not to change.

Subscribing to this thread, sorry for digging up, i wonder if those infinty speakers are still ok or are there better alternatives in by now? Im ready to order some 1031t and 629i for every door.