720 Carburetor Reference Pics
720 Vacuum Line Placement Pics
Z24 hitachi Carb Rebuild
Hitachi Carb 6 plug harness connector
720 Alternator Replacement Thread
720-alternator-replacement-thread-2wd-m ... 21512.html
Oil Pressure Sensor Replacement
720 Ball Joint Replacement
720-ball-joint-replacment-thread-t50632 ... eplacement
Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement
Front Brake Rotor Replacement
Front Wheel Stud Replacement
Front Wheel Bearing Replacement and Packing
Front Brake Hose Replacement
720-front-brake-hose-replacement-thread ... l#p6015862
Front Brake Caliper Rebuild, Step by Step
Rear Suspension Rebuild
Rear Diff Oil Change
Quick Way of Lowering a Datsun/Nissan Pickup
Steering Linkage Rebuild
Master Cylinder Replacement
Camshaft Sprocket Removal NAPZ24
1. Remove Valve Cover2. Remove all spark Plugs3. Bring to TDC.4. Remover the cam sprocket bolt and fuel pump drive cam, if equipped.5. In order to remove the bolt, take out the front rubber moon.6. Insert wood down in chain until it is wedged. The timing chain cannot move off the crankshaft sprocket or the front cover will need to be removed to line up the chain properly.7. Carefully remove the cam shaft sprocketBreadbox's Dimensions of the "Wooden Wedge of Grace": 10" long, 3/4"thick, 1" at the bottom and 1 1/2" at the top.
Basic overview of Cylinder Head Removal NAPZ24
1. Drain cooling system.
2. Remove the air cleaner and power steering pump and idler pulley.
3. Disconnect spark plug wires from the spark plugs and remove the brackets from the valve cover.
4. Remove air induction pipes and valve case, if equipped.
5. Remove the intake manifold. Refer to
6. Remove VVT valve and bracket from the firewall, if equipped.
7. Remove EGR pipe that runs behind the head, if equipped.
8. Remove the manual fuel pump from the right front of the head, if equipped
9. Remove exhaust manifold from the head.
10. Remove Valve Cover and bring motor to TDC. Refer to link added later
11. Take your New Head Gasket and trace the shape on a piece of card board and make hole for the bolts to go through, so they are not mixed up and can be put on in the original locations. (Not sure how important that is yet, though.) Loosen the bolts in ¼ turn increments starting with the back right bolt, moving to the back left bolt, then the front right bolt followed by the front left and alternate this pattern inward until all bolts can be taken out by hand.
12. Remove the small bolts that attach the cylinder head to the front cover.
13. Lift the Head off of the block. DO NOT PRY BETWEEN HEAD and BLOCK! Hit it will a wooden block and a hammer to loosen then lift the head gently off.
14. Use the “Wooden Wedge of Grace” to keep the chain from fallind down into the oil pan. I used a 10-12” wooden dowel that was approx. 1” in diameter.
15. Place head on a block of wood to prevent the head from getting damaged.
16. Remove old head gasket.
17. Vacuum out the cylinders and stuff clean lint-free rags in the cylinders to keep them clean and free of debris.
Basic Overview of Cylinder Head Installation NAPZ24
1. With clean rags in the cylinders, use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of carbon buildup and old gaskets and RTV. Clean the mating surfaces with acetone or lacquer thinner. The two surfaces of the cylinder head and the block must be perfectly clean when the head is installed. If there is oil on either surface the gasket could seal improperly and develop leaks.
2. Check the block and head surfaces for any deep scratches or other damage. You might have to file a minor thing or two but larger gouges will require machining.
3. Use a tap of correct size to chase the threads of the bolt holes. clean bolts and make sure the are free from corrosion and dirt. Damaged threads, dirt, corrosion, sealant, and debris will affect the torque readings.
4. Place Head gasket on the clean block surface aligned with the dowels. Make sure #1 piston is still TDC, then carefully lower the cylinder head onto the engine, over the dowel pins and the gasket, keep everything lined up.
5. Install cleaned head bolts. *Note 1980 heads have two bolts sizes where the z24 has the same size bolts. Try to keep them going back to their original holes.
6. Tighten the bolts in ¼ turn increments Starting with the center left bolt moving to the center right bolt. move forward two bolts and begin with the left followed by the right and go to the opposite side and continue out. Keep it evenly torqued.
7. Head Cylinder Bolt Torque Specifications.This is a 5 step process.1) 22 ft. lbs.2)58 ft. lbs.3) Loosen Completely “do not move the head or the gasket “4) 22 ft. lbs.5)54 to 61 ft. lbs.
8. Install camshaft sprocket. Refer to link added later
9. Fill radiator with coolant and remove the air from the system
10. Readjust the valve clearences to the HOT specifications in the FAQ after warmup. zerothread/464778
Top Dead Center for #1 Piston. TDC tutorial
TDC is when the piston is at the top of the compression stroke or the top of the exhaust stroke. We want it at the top of compression stroke of the first cylinder, to do head work, mess with the distributor or time the motor.
The #1 piston is a TDC on the compression stroke when the notch on the crank pulley is pointing a 0 on the timing plate and the rotor on the distributor is pointing to the #1 on the cap.
1. When looking at the front of the engine, the crankshaft needs to move clockwise. BEFORE STARTING make sure the transmission is in neutral. Detach coil wires from the center of the distributor and ground on the block with a jumper cable. *not sure why grounding coils is any better then just disconnecting the battery. But the manual mentions it so I figure, I would as well.
2. Get a large Socket and breaker bar and turn the crank by the pulley bolt to turn the motor clockwise.
3. Mark the position of the #1 cylinder on the outside of the distributor with a paint marker, so you can see the rotor line up with the cap off. Remove dizzy cap.
4. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the crank lines up on 0 and rotor is pointing a #1. If it is pointing at the #4 then it is TDC on #1’s exhaust stroke. Turn crank 360 degrees.
5. You should now be a TDC for #1. To get to TDC of the following cylinders turn crank 180 degrees at a time and follow the firing order.
Some people take out the #1 cylinder spark plug and put a screw driver in the hole and turn the crank until it is at the top and screwdriver is extended out. Then by marking the dizzy cap you can get it to TDC.
Gauge Cluster Disassembly and Clean 86 720
Tools needed: small & medium phillips screwdriver, medium flat blade screwdriver, cleaning rag, q-tips and rubbing alcohol.remove the upper and lower column shroud from the steering wheel, remove two top screws that hold cluster to dash, pull the bottom out as these are only held in by two clips. You'll need to tug on it a little. Remove the speedo cable by pinching the knurled spot and pulling straight out, this is a little tricky since you don't have much room back there, and the short length of the speedo cable only allows about 3/4" of play. Than remove the electrical connectors. These are all one way connections and you can't plug them in the wrong spot.
Cluster out! Ready for cleaning!
These clusters don't use a PCB board, but rather a thin mylar like backing with copper "lines" sure there is a name for it and someone will correct me. Going to take this off and clean it too! You don't need to memorize the locations of all the lamps as they are interchangeable.
Remove the back housing of the cluster from the front, fairly easy to do, there are 4 plastic tongues along the top, and 2 on the bottom. You may want to be careful if yours is brittle. The polycarbonate cover is removed the same, it is held on by plastic tongues along all four sides, the bottom two can only be reached by the flat blade screwdriver.
now to remove the mylar board. Simple, but take your time. This is only held on by the plastic guide posts as well as the pressure from the electrical connectors. Take the q-tips and soak the ends in the rubbing alcohol and clean the electrical connectors as well as the copper from the mylar board.
This was a little tricky to get off. Both top sides of the mylar board feed through the cluster to the electrical connections on the face side. You need to disconnect this, lift the mylar board from the guide posts and feed it back through the cluster.
To clean the gauge faces, you can remove the faces and clean them or leave them in place, but be careful as the needles can bend.Simply clean all the parts and assembly is reverse!
MUCH MORE TO COME!