I used about 18-ft of power cable and about 2-ft of ground cable. Both of these will vary depending on where and how you mount your amplifier. I would get about at least 20-ft feet to be safe.MY2J wrote:can someone please confirm how much feet in power and ground cable is needed for our vehicles. Thank you!
Good info and solution. Thanks for sharing! What volume and style box do you have for that 12? Pics?Shtoops wrote:I have a HAT Clarus 12" sub installed on a Zapco DC500.1 .. I ran an RTA against the sub to see what the BOSE amp was doing to the sub signal... I found that BOSE was placing a High Pass Filter on the Sub signal to prevent the 10" OEM IB Sub from bottoming out.. They crossed the sub signal 40hz@12db .. to compensate for the crossover, I used parametric EQ from my Zapco Z8 DSP. +12db @ 20hz with Q=1.7 .. this nulls the crossover and restores the sub bass signal. It's not ideal, but it worked for me. I'm now slamming hard on the low lows.
I'm wanting to reclaim my trunk space .. so I'm thinking about installing an Acoustic Elegance SPB15 15" subwoofer mounted infinite baffle against the trunk pass through. Has anybody done an IB sub install on the M37?
You didn't happen to get a print out of what the Bose amp was doing did you? I seem to be having a different issue than you in that everything in the 40 - 100hz range is missing and everything 40hz and below is boosted.Shtoops wrote:I have a HAT Clarus 12" sub installed on a Zapco DC500.1 .. I ran an RTA against the sub to see what the BOSE amp was doing to the sub signal... I found that BOSE was placing a High Pass Filter on the Sub signal to prevent the 10" OEM IB Sub from bottoming out.. They crossed the sub signal 40hz@12db .. to compensate for the crossover, I used parametric EQ from my Zapco Z8 DSP. +12db @ 20hz with Q=1.7 .. this nulls the crossover and restores the sub bass signal. It's not ideal, but it worked for me. I'm now slamming hard on the low lows.
I'm wanting to reclaim my trunk space .. so I'm thinking about installing an Acoustic Elegance SPB15 15" subwoofer mounted infinite baffle against the trunk pass through. Has anybody done an IB sub install on the M37?
Where did you get the audio signal to use, so that you can avoid the high pass crossover?Shtoops wrote:I have a HAT Clarus 12" sub installed on a Zapco DC500.1 .. I ran an RTA against the sub to see what the BOSE amp was doing to the sub signal... I found that BOSE was placing a High Pass Filter on the Sub signal to prevent the 10" OEM IB Sub from bottoming out.. They crossed the sub signal 40hz@12db .. to compensate for the crossover, I used parametric EQ from my Zapco Z8 DSP. +12db @ 20hz with Q=1.7 .. this nulls the crossover and restores the sub bass signal. It's not ideal, but it worked for me. I'm now slamming hard on the low lows.
I'm wanting to reclaim my trunk space .. so I'm thinking about installing an Acoustic Elegance SPB15 15" subwoofer mounted infinite baffle against the trunk pass through. Has anybody done an IB sub install on the M37?
Weird. I am using an original PAC Trunk-LOC speaker trigger for my amp turn on and not getting any pop. The Zapco's may not have a soft power on function to avoid the pop. You can install a power on delay module like THIS or THIS.Shtoops wrote:I do have a remote turn on issue with my system though. In need of some help! I'm using a PAC LOC w/ signal sensing remote turn on .. when I switch from ACC to ON, I get a loud static pop sound .. i assume this is due to the signal sensing remote turn on from the LOC. Where can I locate a true OEM 12v accessory signal for remote turn on? .. Relying on the PAC LOC is giving me headaches!
RE: The Sub box .. its 1.25 cu ft sealed. It gets the job done! Though, I'm planning on adding a 3rd amp for my HAT L3SE and HAT L1v2s and moving to an infinite baffle situation to reclaim trunk space.
As of right now I have a Zapco Z8 DSP, Zapco DC750.2, Zapco DC500.1 + HAT L6v2s, HAT Clarus C12Sw.
I won't be using a DSP, so now I'm worried about this possible sub-40hz cutoff when I put in my amp and sub.Shtoops wrote:
For audio signal I tapped the subwoofer output and the front midbass output .. I then summed the signal with my DSP.
Mrnix, go ahead and put it in. Not much music content is below 30hz.. At that point, you are only down 6db. A little EQ or bass boost at 30hz will do the trick. Even if you dont have boost or EQ., it will still sound great. I had to cut 50hz significantly due to cabin gain.mrnix wrote:
I won't be using a DSP, so now I'm worried about this possible sub-40hz cutoff when I put in my amp and sub.
thanks. I have the back side of the enclosure done. Now I need to actually order the sub and make the front and work the port into there. My pace is awfully slow, though. I hope to have it in by labor day.Shtoops wrote:Mrnix, go ahead and put it in. Not much music content is below 30hz.. At that point, you are only down 6db. A little EQ or bass boost at 30hz will do the trick. Even if you dont have boost or EQ., it will still sound great. I had to cut 50hz significantly due to cabin gain.mrnix wrote:
I won't be using a DSP, so now I'm worried about this possible sub-40hz cutoff when I put in my amp and sub.
I totally missed this post. What you did is what I suspected was the issue -- Bose crosses over the door speaker somewhere between 40hz and 50hz and the subwoofer only plays 50hz and below. I can't confirm until I hook everything up to an RTA but that's what I think is happening. Summing the front speakers with the subwoofer output is probably what's needed to correct the bass signal. After you sum the signal you can crossover at whatever point you need, 100hz or 80hz or whatever. But that would restore the bass signal.Shtoops wrote:The RTA was done using pink noise against the output of the speaker .. I haven't had the time to wire up the signal to a direct feed of the subwoofer output to see a true measure of what is going on. I noticed that a roll off was happening where I knew my system should be hitting hard .. The RTA showed me that the sub was rolling off starting @ 40hz .. My assumption based on what the RTA was telling me was 40hz@12db.
For audio signal I tapped the subwoofer output and the front midbass output .. I then summed the signal with my DSP.
What did you use to sum the signals? I was planning on using an Audio Control LC2i, which I think you can only use 1 set of L/R speaker level inputs.Shtoops wrote:Reggie.. Not only did I have to sum the midbass and sub signals .. i also had to add +12db @ 20hz for the whole 20-40hz octave. The subwoofer is Highpassed @ 40hz by 12db it seems. By boosting an octave lower (20hz) by 12db .. I essentially nulled that HPF set on the subwoofer.
I believe the Midbasses up front are crossed/highpassed at around 70-80hz @ 12db
do you guys think there's enough room to run 4 gauge wire through the same path down the passenger side? My amp only requires 8 gauge, but I don't have enough length of 8 around, but do have about 20 feet of 4 I can run to a distribution block, then a small piece of 8 to the amp.Debonair wrote:I used about 18-ft of power cable and about 2-ft of ground cable. Both of these will vary depending on where and how you mount your amplifier. I would get about at least 20-ft feet to be safe.MY2J wrote:can someone please confirm how much feet in power and ground cable is needed for our vehicles. Thank you!
Thanks. I guess it is an older thread although it doesn't feel that way. Time fly's.schmantezuba wrote: ↑Sat Jan 27, 2018 10:57 pmGreat write up and pics. Thanks. I know this is an older thread, but I have a couple of questions because I just got a used 2011 M37x with the Bose 10 speaker set up. I'm wondering if you think the following will work?
This is pretty much what I did with my old vehicle (2007 Honda Odyssey Touring). Except rather than pull from the speaker wire on its way out of the amp to the woofer, I took the pre-amp signal to RCA and then straight to the amp with no line converter necessary. Then I cut into the speaker wire post amp on the way to the speakers. I did end up adding a line converter, audio control lc7i, later though to make sure the levels were optimal pre-amp.
I intend to do the same thing on this car. I'm hoping to splice the wire on the way in to the amp, so I can use a component set in the front door with an aftermarket amp and let the Bose amp continue to power the mid speaker (probably unnecessary). But, I'll cut the wire on the way out of the amp to the locations I intend to use and be able to upgrade the speakers in the factory locations and use the factory speaker wire with an after market amp. So, I'm thinking a 4 channel amp with components up front and 6.5 in the rear doors and a sub setup like yours in the trunk. I'm hesitant though because this car is a bit nicer than the mini-van and I don't want to mess it up. I'll just have to take my time. If my install is 85% as clean as the one you posted, I'll be well pleased. The trunk space will become limited though, 2 amps, a large sub, and a fairly large line converter.
If it worked on my old Odyssey, it should work here.
If you have autopilot on it will raise and lower the volume automatically as you speed up and slow down. Also, are you talking about an aftermarket sub? If you installed your own sub you have to cut the green wire that Debonair mentioned.
The sub input I believe is 1 channel Mono, so your LOC would just get one side. or I suppose you could splice the two + together and the two - together and get the same input in each side (L/R)coffeyface2000 wrote: ↑Sat Aug 31, 2019 6:11 pmI'm in the process of installing my loc converter on my 03 q45 and I'm trying to figure out how to splice into the factory sub according to your diagram when it only has the one + wire and the - wire. My converter requires left +/- and right +/- inputs for signal. Sorry for the stupid question but I just can't figure how you would do that lol.