Thanks!wideopn11 wrote:Nice write up! I'll need to double check my settings; but I thought there was a way to turn off ACN. Maybe I'm confusing a different setting.
Nice! And that box look shiney!Darthswan wrote:I got my subwoofer back, they did a fabulous job. I built my box last weekend. Now I have to find a weekend to run the cable for the amplifier.
Debonair wrote:
Nice! And that box look shiney!
Awesome! Yeah, it's almost better after being away from it for a while. I still have work to do on mine to get it where it needs to be. Free time is always the issue.Darthswan wrote:Ran the power cord yesterday. Dropped the sub in today. Oh how I missed the sound.
Debonair wrote: Awesome! Yeah, it's almost better after being away from it for a while. I still have work to do on mine to get it where it needs to be. Free time is always the issue.
Welcome fellow former Lexi owner! I don't know for sure but I think the hum will still occur. You can do the whole install and then cut the wire later if you want. It's easy enough to solder or crimp it back together if needed anyways.MY2J wrote:just got my "new" to me M37 over the weekend. Dropping in my sub was number one on my to-do list. I have one question concerning the LOC tap... would tapping into a different speaker other than the factory sub still cause this humming sound from the ACN? In my old car (IS300) I didn't have a factory sub so I tapped into a rear 6x9. Honestly, I haven't even looked to see how many speakers come in the rear deck thanks in advance!
Debonair wrote:Here are the sizes:
10 Speaker System
16 Speaker System
- One 3-inch mid-highrange speaker in the dash
Two 1-inch tweeters in the side-view mirror panels
Two 3-inch midhigh-range speakers in the front doors
Two 6x9-inch woofers in the front doors
Two 6.5-inch wide-range speakers in the rear doors
One 10-inch woofer in the rear shelf
Someone else posted up a link to this PDF from Bose. I added the 'murica speaker sizes and the green rings around the speakers that are part of the 16-speaker system. But this shows you where they are at.
- Four 2-inch speakers in the front seats
Two 3-inch midhigh-range speakers in the rear shelf
I have the LC2i. Works perfect.MY2J wrote:thanks! so cutting this wire won't effect anything in the factory sound system, right? should a setting be turned off or anything like that? I was looking at a pricier LOC in hopes that they would say something about this active noise control system but I didn't have much luck... and I don't speak audio language so that didn't help much either lol
here's what I was looking at: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-8HrGzcVf99 ... -LC2i.html
so you were able to achieve this without having to cut the ANC wire?Darthswan wrote:I have the LC2i. Works perfect.MY2J wrote:thanks! so cutting this wire won't effect anything in the factory sound system, right? should a setting be turned off or anything like that? I was looking at a pricier LOC in hopes that they would say something about this active noise control system but I didn't have much luck... and I don't speak audio language so that didn't help much either lol
here's what I was looking at: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-8HrGzcVf99 ... -LC2i.html
Here's a question for you all. I tapped off the subwoofer line and using the subwoofer out on the LC2i. Will I be able to add another amp to the other output for the mids and highs? Plan on, at least, replacing the front door speaker with 3 way component. I asked the question because of the subwoofer signal.
Thanks.
Cutting the wire will only disable the rear Active Noise Control (ANC) microphone, nothing else. There is no known (to me at least) way to disable the ANC through the vehicles software.MY2J wrote:thanks! so cutting this wire won't effect anything in the factory sound system, right? should a setting be turned off or anything like that?
I haven't cut it yet. I mainly notice the hum when I start the car. It did hum a couple of times, while in traffic. When I reconfigure, I'll just probably cut it.MY2J wrote: so you were able to achieve this without having to cut the ANC wire?
Sweet! Fiberglass is pretty easy and fun, just time consuming. Start a thread and post some pics, keep us updated!mrnix wrote:You guys got me itching to put a sub in my 2012 M37. The 10 speaker setup is lacking, and I'm going to start by adding a 10 in the trunk. I started laying down some fiberglass on the driver's side of the trunk over the weekend, so I can do a small box that's out of the way. At my pace, it will probably take me 4-6 months to actually do it all though.
thanks. I will try to get some pics and start a thread as time allows. I built a fiberglass box for a JL 15W6 in my G35, but I am not willing to concede as much trunk space in the M. I fiberglassed a box for 2 15W6s in my 3000GT, which consumed the entire hatch area, but was LOUD. Now that I'm a grown up, I can't really go all-in like that anymore.Debonair wrote:Sweet! Fiberglass is pretty easy and fun, just time consuming. Start a thread and post some pics, keep us updated!mrnix wrote:You guys got me itching to put a sub in my 2012 M37. The 10 speaker setup is lacking, and I'm going to start by adding a 10 in the trunk. I started laying down some fiberglass on the driver's side of the trunk over the weekend, so I can do a small box that's out of the way. At my pace, it will probably take me 4-6 months to actually do it all though.
So I have done some research myself. So right now I am experimenting with just covering the mics in the car. And I have noticed that you do get some better low end punch...but I think I am just going to disable the mic at the amp.Debonair wrote:Cutting the wire will only disable the rear Active Noise Control (ANC) microphone, nothing else. There is no known (to me at least) way to disable the ANC through the vehicles software.MY2J wrote:thanks! so cutting this wire won't effect anything in the factory sound system, right? should a setting be turned off or anything like that?
Nice work on the box!reggiebrown40 wrote:Covering the mic hole won't work, I tried already. I had to cut the green wire.
I've built a subwoofer box and amp rack out of fiberglass and I'm almost finished. The problem is the sound quality still isn't that great, especially since there seems to be a hole in the frequency response somewhere between 50k and 100k. I'll need to see it on an RTA to be sure but i'm curious to see if anyone has noticed this. A good test is if you can hear 808 kick drums fairly well but not bass guitars.
nice work on the box, sir. I never have the patience to get the exterior of my fiberglass smooth enough to paint, so I end up carpeting the whole exterior. My box location will be on the driver side, so opposite of where your amp is going. If I'm not mistaken, the jack is on the passenger side, so I decided, in the interest of caution, not to impede access to it.reggiebrown40 wrote:Covering the mic hole won't work, I tried already. I had to cut the green wire.
I've built a subwoofer box and amp rack out of fiberglass and I'm almost finished. The problem is the sound quality still isn't that great, especially since there seems to be a hole in the frequency response somewhere between 50k and 100k. I'll need to see it on an RTA to be sure but i'm curious to see if anyone has noticed this. A good test is if you can hear 808 kick drums fairly well but not bass guitars.
Thanks Debonair. That's the same issue I'm having -- the frequency range. Hopefully your box rebuild will fix your issue. If it doesn't, I think the Bose system is to blame and I'm going to have to look into buying a signal processor. Even then there's not guarrantee. Can't put back what Bose has taken out with their stupid EQ.Debonair wrote:Nice work on the box!reggiebrown40 wrote:Covering the mic hole won't work, I tried already. I had to cut the green wire.
I've built a subwoofer box and amp rack out of fiberglass and I'm almost finished. The problem is the sound quality still isn't that great, especially since there seems to be a hole in the frequency response somewhere between 50k and 100k. I'll need to see it on an RTA to be sure but i'm curious to see if anyone has noticed this. A good test is if you can hear 808 kick drums fairly well but not bass guitars.
Well my bass is still not where it needs to be, it gets low but only on a limited frequency range. But my box is too big to be sealed since it was intended to be ported. I am going to build the port into the box while my car is getting the timing chain recall work done. Hopefully that brings it to where it needs to be.
mrnix wrote:nice work on the box, sir. I never have the patience to get the exterior of my fiberglass smooth enough to paint, so I end up carpeting the whole exterior. My box location will be on the driver side, so opposite of where your amp is going. If I'm not mistaken, the jack is on the passenger side, so I decided, in the interest of caution, not to impede access to it.reggiebrown40 wrote:Covering the mic hole won't work, I tried already. I had to cut the green wire.
I've built a sub woofer box and amp rack out of fiberglass and I'm almost finished. The problem is the sound quality still isn't that great, especially since there seems to be a hole in the frequency response somewhere between 50k and 100k. I'll need to see it on an RTA to be sure but I'm curious to see if anyone has noticed this. A good test is if you can hear 808 kick drums fairly well but not bass guitars.
I am still working on the box, I expect it will take many more weeks before I am ready for an amp install, but I was considering putting on the back of one of the seats. That's where I had them in my G, and it worked out all right. I have a bunch of older (circa late 90's) car audio stuff - amps, eqs, head units, etc. around so I will most likely use one of those amps. They get relatively warm, so I wouldn't want to put them under the rear deck, so as to not impede airflow and heat dissipation.reggiebrown40 wrote: Thanks Mr. Nix. My first intention was to paint but I think I'm going to carpet the same way I did the amp rack. Paint would have looked great but it's just too much sanding and this project has worn me down. I put the box on the passenger side because it's the side the battery was on - made it an easier install. The fuse holders, relay and amp are all housed in the amp rack. I used the existing hole to secure the rack mount with a bolt and wing nut. You're right though, it's a pain if I had to get to the jack.
Did you end up installing an aftermarket amp? If yes, where did you put it? under the rear deck?