DIY: Rebuilding an SR20DET

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
User avatar
Slipstream
Posts: 1903
Joined: Fri Aug 05, 2005 1:35 pm
Car: '94 Sonoma, '90 300zx n/a

Post

Hijacker: Would you be willing to rent out your valve height measuring tool?


User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 15759
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Post

I don't actually have one... I did the cheap way and just matched the shims to the rocker guides. It's not correct, but its better than the old method of just putting random shims in

User avatar
redtop91
Posts: 16326
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:05 am
Car: ↑ ↑ ↓ ↓ ← → ← → B A Start

Post

Hey Bartmeister. With the head, upper and lower oil pans, and front cover bolts removed is there anything else holding the front timing chain cover on? According to your guide and the FSM there shouldn't but it won't seem to budge even after a firm mallet smack.

User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 15759
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Post

There shouldn't be anything holding it on at that point. It's probably the oil pump spacer getting jammed on it funny like. Try taking two small screwdrivers and using them to seperate the front cover from the block and then walk it off. I like to use them to pry near the guide pins as they can sometimes make it difficult to remove as well.

Of course, double check that all the bolts are off. I've forgotten to remove one in the past and nearly snapped the front cover in 2.

User avatar
redtop91
Posts: 16326
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:05 am
Car: ↑ ↑ ↓ ↓ ← → ← → B A Start

Post

All the bolts are off. I tried your suggestion to no avail. The upper part is loose but something seems to be holding the lower half on. I'll triple check everything I guess.

EDIT: Upon a second examination, I found that as usual I fail at life. Note to self and others tap the front cover away from you if you are looking at the inside of the cover and it'll slide right off. Should been obvious since the sprocketed portion of the crank runs through the front cover preventing up and down motion. Durr.
Modified by redtop91 at 7:42 PM 10/3/2008

User avatar
Sil80315
Posts: 1084
Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2006 4:34 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 240sx
Contact:

Post

wow good write up. im in the process of rebuilding one of my sr's after it god a rod know so im replacing the main and rod bearings..now the only question is on the bearings where they have alittle tab on them..do both sides of the bearings tabs touch eachother or is it oppisite sides from eachother?

User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 15759
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Post

Notches go on the same side as each other.

I prefer to match my rods and caps up via the numbers stamped on the side. Nissan always stamps the rods the same, so it's a reliable way of doing it. So if you're rod is for Cylinder 1, make sure the '1' on the rod and cap are on the same side.

User avatar
jr_ss
Posts: 1681
Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2005 8:03 am
Car: 95' S14

Post

Is the oil pickup still attached? If so that's your problem. I did the same thing when I was redoing the timing chain/guides on my engine. I couldn't figure out what the hell was still hold it on.

iceman.chris
Posts: 62
Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2008 3:01 pm
Car: '90 S13 Hatch - SR20 (sold)
'95 240sx LE (dd)

Post

What about if you want to use ACL race main + rod bearings, how do you select the grades for those? Is it just "standard" for any of the OEM grades 0-6?

User avatar
s13-t
Posts: 419
Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2008 6:07 pm
Car: s13 pig nose w/blacktop sr20det

Post

hey hijacker

getting ready to send my block out to the machine shop. but I was told I should remove the plugs on the block first. One is under the front cover. two are on the exhaust side near the oil return for the turbo. and the fourth is on the left side. they are allen heads... I was wondering if you know what size they are and whether or not I actually need to remove them for the hot tank.

User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 15759
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Post

I let my machine shop pop them out and replace them.

Kalypso
Posts: 8609
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2007 10:10 am

Post

this thread is still my all time nico favorite.

EfiniRX7
Posts: 428
Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2008 4:37 am
Car: 93 FD3S not going anywhere, 2003 E46 M3 traded, s14 sold, 2010 camaro sold, now another kouki s14, FD did go somewhere, Now a 535whp rotary Kouki s14

Post

This will be use-full in a few days. Im replacing my head gasket and having the head milled(if it needs it) along with being hot tanked. After reading about shimming the head and such it got me worried. Can I just put everything back in the spot it came from, and be all right? I don't have any gauge or dial tools for measuring nor do I really understand what Im doing. Im a rotary guy being forced to work on these piston contraptions due to low funds. Thanks for the info.

lifewater
Posts: 25
Joined: Mon Jul 31, 2006 4:44 am
Car: 1990 S13, 1996 S14
Contact:

Post

Awesome guide... I'll be using this come time for my build!

I have a quick question. I blew my motor and damaged the block. Luckily there was a block for sale close by so now I have something clean to work with.

I will be using my undamaged crank from my blown motor in the new block. Are bearing choices still as simple as the addition stated in the guide if your mix-matching cranks/blocks? Or do I have to take anything else into account?

User avatar
s13-t
Posts: 419
Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2008 6:07 pm
Car: s13 pig nose w/blacktop sr20det

Post

the baffle next to the mains on my block broke... where can i get a new one? and how do you get the pressed in tubes out of the block before machining?

Thank god nissan stamps the rods and caps with the cyl number otherwise I would have been screwd....


Modified by s13-t at 2:02 AM 10/16/2009

User avatar
Stripes
Posts: 843
Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 12:24 pm
Car: hatch, coupe
Contact:

Post

Question.When boring .020 over, is it necessary to resleeve the cylinders or is it fine to just bore the stock sleeves?Also this may have been answered already, but when using aftermarket pistons and rods is it necessary to have the crank balanced?

One more thing. I noticed when looking at aftermarket bearings such as ACL and Clevite the whole set comes in the same sizes. With the clevites ( http://www.enjukuracing.com/cl....html ), it states they are all standard size. Is this okay or does each pair need to be special ordered to the right size?
Modified by Stripes at 12:49 PM 10/16/2009

User avatar
duffman1278
Posts: 6817
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 3:09 pm
Car: 89 240sx Hatch, the wildcats!

Post

You're fine if you just use ACL or Clevite's one size.

Boring .020 seems like a lot. Have a shop check out the condition of the cylinder walls to see if you even have to go that far. They'll be able to tell you if you'll need sleeves or if you can go less.

User avatar
s13-t
Posts: 419
Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2008 6:07 pm
Car: s13 pig nose w/blacktop sr20det

Post

bump!!!need helpplz answer my question above

User avatar
duffman1278
Posts: 6817
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 3:09 pm
Car: 89 240sx Hatch, the wildcats!

Post

The pressed in sleeves will get pulled out by the machine shop. Let them worry about that, as well as putting them back.

As for the "baffle next your main?" I'm not exactly sure what part you're talking about here so I can't help you out much. For some reason I'm thinking that you meant the oil jets that are in each cylinder?

User avatar
s13-t
Posts: 419
Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2008 6:07 pm
Car: s13 pig nose w/blacktop sr20det

Post

this baffle...


User avatar
duffman1278
Posts: 6817
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 3:09 pm
Car: 89 240sx Hatch, the wildcats!

Post

Call up West Covina Nissan.

http://www.thenismoshop.com/

They can get JDM parts for the SR. I dunno if it's an SR part only but you could have them check. It would be best though if you searched the part number on FAST then gave it to them so they get the exact number. Or email them with that pic tell them you want the baffle.

User avatar
s13-t
Posts: 419
Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2008 6:07 pm
Car: s13 pig nose w/blacktop sr20det

Post

Thanks, I really appreciate the help. I am emailing them right now.Hijacker I hope its cool for me to send them that picture.

User avatar
Asia989
Posts: 418
Joined: Tue May 18, 2004 4:19 pm
Car: 90 s13.4
Location: Florida
Contact:

Post

can i use moly lube as assembly lube? when putting the crank in??

User avatar
duffman1278
Posts: 6817
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 3:09 pm
Car: 89 240sx Hatch, the wildcats!

Post

Yes. Moly lube will work just fine. I did that on my integra when I rebuilt it and never had an issue.

User avatar
Asia989
Posts: 418
Joined: Tue May 18, 2004 4:19 pm
Car: 90 s13.4
Location: Florida
Contact:

Post

now to figure out how to do poor mans ring gap to oem rings...

User avatar
duffman1278
Posts: 6817
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 3:09 pm
Car: 89 240sx Hatch, the wildcats!

Post

OEM piston rings usually are pre gapped. However check now and assure yourself of it.

To check the gapping just insert the rings into the cyclinder and line it up as best as you can with a piston. Then with a feeler gauge, find the gap between the ring and verify it's with in specifications.

User avatar
Asia989
Posts: 418
Joined: Tue May 18, 2004 4:19 pm
Car: 90 s13.4
Location: Florida
Contact:

Post

What would be stock gap? my feeler gauge im using as two numbers on it .021.023

User avatar
duffman1278
Posts: 6817
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 3:09 pm
Car: 89 240sx Hatch, the wildcats!

Post

Your feeler gauge only has .021 and .023?? You need to get yourself a feeler gauge with way more gauges than 2 lol! Check the FSM for the gapping.

User avatar
Asia989
Posts: 418
Joined: Tue May 18, 2004 4:19 pm
Car: 90 s13.4
Location: Florida
Contact:

Post

duffman1278 wrote:Your feeler gauge only has .021 and .023?? You need to get yourself a feeler gauge with way more gauges than 2 lol! Check the FSM for the gapping.
lol, my other one says .012, a guy from rs enthalpy said they should be dead on or close

User avatar
duffman1278
Posts: 6817
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 3:09 pm
Car: 89 240sx Hatch, the wildcats!

Post

For the most part, yes they are pretty close to dead on. However a set usually has an array of different gauges from like .05"-.23" you need to get yourself a proper set so you can properly measure the gap.


Return to “SR20DET Forum (rear-drive)”