***This DIY has missing information, removed due to improper installation. You can still use most of this, but you'll have to be creative and careful while installing. I will fill in the blanks at a later point.***
Product: Umnitza Halo Kit 06 G35C http://www.umnitza.com/product...=1205
Kit listed on site is really for the 03-05 Coupe only. For the 06, you must email umnitza.For Sedan halo's, search Ebay.
Skill level required: 4/10Time required: 1-4 hours
Tools required:10mm socket and wrench with 6 inch extenderLarge and small flat head screwdriverPhillips head screwdriverWire cuttersPliersAlcohol padsPainters tapeOven large enough to fit your headlightsGood cookie sheetOven mits or good mechanics gloves
Before you start, test your halos. Connect your new Halos to the Ballast. 2 halos to 1 Ballast. Then connect the ballast to the battery. Red to Red (+), Black to Black (-).Now isn't that pretty! They are gonna look great! Lets get started:
First, using your painters tape, cover both sides of your front fender. This will prevent scratchs that you WILL get if you don't.Be sure to put an extra layer towards the front, as thats where the bumber edge will scratch your G when you peel it back for this install.
Remove your sidemarkers. They pop out fairly easily. Disconnect the sidemarkers from the wire by turning the bulb socket and pulling it out. Tuck the wire back inside the fender so it stays out of the way.
There are 6 plastic locks you need to remove from the top of the bumper. They are circled in red.Use your small flathead screwdriver to pop the center of each up first, then pry the plastic lock out of the hole.
In each fender well, there are 3 more plasitc locks. You'll only need to remove 1 on each side:Remove the lock closest to the sidemarker.
Using your hand, or carefully using the large flathead screwdriver, pry back the wheel well cover as shown. This will reveal 2 10mm bolts holding on each side of the bumper. The first one is easy to see and access (pictured). The second (not pictured) is 3 inches behind the 1st bolt (towards the front of the car). Use your 6" extender to reach it.
Once you have done this to both sides, begin peeling the bumber down.Start where you removed the bolts on each side. Once the sides are free from the fenders, you can pull the front towards the ground. You can place your floor mats under the bumber to ensure it is not scratched on the ground.
You'll only need this much room to work.
There are 4 10mm bolts on each headlamp. One circled in red on the front outside.
One front inside.
One on top.
Last on the outside connected to the fender.
Your headlamp is now free from bolts, but there is still a wire harness holding it down. Carefully begin to pull the headlamp out. Start by pulling the lamp towards the front, then up. There will mostlikely be a few zip ties holding the wire harness slack to the car. Use a razor to cut them, and free up some slack in the wire bundle. Be careful not to cut the wires.
Once you have enough slack, you can pull the lamp out enough to access the harness, and disconnect it. This will work best by using needle nose plyers to grip the harness and depress the lock that holds it together. Once you have a grip, pull and it should come apart.
It is now time for the oven. Seriously.
Preset your oven for 200 degrees F.
Place your headlamp on a good cookie sheet, large enough so absolutely no part of your light touches anthing other than the sheet.Once your oven is warmed up, set the timer for 20 mins. Place your light into the oven carefully, and be sure than it does not touch anything.
20 mins later, take your headlamp out of the oven. You'll need to grip it for the next part, so have your gloves on, and place the lamp on an oven mit, or something soft and non-flamable.
The glue holding the front of the lamp together is now hot and soft. The plastic of the lamp is also hot and soft, so you can damage it if you are not careful. Some bending of the outter sections of the backing will happen, and will be ok, so don't worry.
There are 3 phillips head screws holding the headlamp together, as well as many clips. First remove the screws.They are located at the top, the bottom outside, and the middle.
Using both your flathead screwdrivers (a buddy will help here greatly) locate and begin to seperate the housing by detaching each built in clip3 on this side.
3 on that side.
2 on the bottom.
Easiest way about this is to start at the bottom and work your way up. The top of the lamp cover is actually inserted into the top of the lamp housing, and once you loosen the bottom, you can pull the bottom out and the top will seperate.
Set the lamp cover and crome insert asideNow that you have the housing open, you can begin to install the halos.
This kit, which was custom ordered for the 06 will fit on the fog, or turnsignal or projection lamp. However, when connected to the projection lense, the mounting tape and wires of the halo is easily seen. Therefore I decided to mount mine in the fog light and turn signal.
There are many ways to wire this kit. The easiest way will be to connect them directly to the parking light inside of the headlamp. This is what I have done, and this DIY will show. It can also be connected to the headlight, so it will only come on with them. Or, with an 'option wire harness', it can be made into 'day time running' lights, or DRL's.
Connecting to parking lights:In the 06, there is a parking light inside of the fog light. Using the wires from this light, you will power the halos. They will come on whenever the parking lights, or headlights are on.
The parking light inside the fog light pulls straight out easily.The Black wire is the ground or negative (-). The Green/Yellow is the positive (+).
Using the supplied 'quick splicers' or 'scotchlocks', connect the black (-) wire of the parking light to the black (-) wire of the supplied Ballast (the black box with the wires sticking out). To use 'scotchlocks': There are two tunnels inside. On the inside most tunnel, you'll notice that it is blocked at one end. This end is for the Ballast wire. The outter most tunnel is not blocked. This is for the parking light wire. Once you have both wires inside the lock, using plyers, put pressure on the metal peice in the center. This will splice the wires together. Close the plastic protective cover over the center to lock it in place.
Now connect the red wire (+) of the Ballast to the Green/Yellow (+) of the parking light.
The Ballasts need to be mounted somewhere flat (so says the makers). There is plenty of room inside the 06 light. Use 2 or so pieces of the provided double sided mounting tape, stick them to the bottom of the Ballast.
There is a nice empty ledge behind the turnsignal. Clean it with an alcohol pad first to ensure a clean surface. Then secure the Ballast to the ledge. Hold it down for 20 secs or so.
The parking light halo is first. You can see there is 1 screw holding the lense on.Remove the screw.
You have 2 different sets of Halo's. Ones with a crome cover over the wires, and ones without. For the turn signal, use the ones without. If both come with the chrome covers, remove 2 of the covers, as they will not fit in the turn signals with them on. They pop off with minimal force.
The halo will fit VERY snugly inside of the turn signals. With the wires end of the halo up and the light side of the halo forward, start by pushing the bottom the halo in, then the top. It will be a very tight fit, but it will fit. Make sure it is centered, and have the wires come up and out of the housing on each side of the opening on the top. This will allow you to close the lense over the wires without damaging them.
Once the halo is in there and centered, replace the lense to the turn signal. Once again, be sure the wires are out the way of the lock at the top.
***This section has been omitted, as it contained incorrect installation. For your second halo, you'll have to adjust placement on the fly. Do NOT install halo near your headlight/fog-light bulb, as they WILL melt and cause a fire.
Install your halo away from any bulb, preferably by connecting the ring to the outer reflective housing via the double sided tape.
Sorry for the gap in the DIY. I will fix this down the road.***
Plug each halo into the ballast.
The excess wires from the halo can be pulled up and back out of the top of the fog. The chrome cover of the headlamp will cover this, and the wires will not be seen. A strip of the painters tape can be used to secure the wires in their place above the foglight, just to be sure they don't move somehow.
The wires from the halo's and ballasts need to be cleaned up. The picture is blurry, sorry. You can mostly see that the wires simply must be moved out of the way of the lights. Tuck them neatly where you can.
TIME FOR FUN!!!!!
Gently place your headlamp without the cover back into your car. You are going to test your new lights! Reconnect the wire harness to your headlamp. Turn on your parking lights and take a look.If they light up, you did good. (If not, you need to first check that the 'scotch locks' you used to splice the wires are properly connected. If that doesn't work, check the connection from the halo to the ballast.)
The parking light itself (the one you spliced your ballasts to) can and will take away from the look of your new mod. I suggest that you simply remove the bulb and reconnect the socket as I did. This is not neccessary though, but it helps.
Repeat everthing to the other side of the car.
Reheat the oven to 200 degrees F. Put the cover back onto your headlamp. You won't be able to put it back the way it was before without a rebake for 20 mins to soften that glue back up. Be sure to do this properly, or there could be gaps in the sealent, and moisture will get into your headlamps.
After 20 mins, work backwards from how you seperated the headlamp cover from the housing, start at the top and work down. Your plyers will help here. Use them on the sides to clamp them back together. Once everthing looks close to before, replace the 3 screws. Put them in tighly and they should resecure the cover to the housing.
Work backwards and reinstall the headlamps and bumper. When done, crack that beer and enjoy!
If you should see condensation inside of your headlamp after this install, you can open them back up, dry them out, and reseal them with a clear silicon sealent.
Modified by SneaKe at 9:30 PM 6/19/2008