KimberKenobi wrote:...
Can I get directions on colorsanding?
(I can totally admit when I really don't know something and with this car I'm determined to do everything to a high quality level...)
here is an artical that kinda sums it up...."The Cure We provided some practical tips on prepping and painting in previous articles, but there are still some extra steps involved to get the most out of the new hues. As pro painter Mike Face points out, "Paints require more work today. If you look closely at the reflections in the surface, you can see that the edges of, say, tree branches or a stop sign, don't look quite as crisp as with those lacquer finishes." Face believes that the best way to get that old-time shine is to first let the initial clearcoats cure in the sun for a couple days so the solvents air out. Next, block-sand the clearcoated surface with 1,000-grit paper and water, then apply two more coats (in addition to the two or more previously applied). These last applications are sometimes called "flow coats." Face then sands yet again with 800 and 1,500 grit paper and water, and proceeds to buffing the finish. Sanding Tips Face shared some tips and tricks he uses during color-sanding, such as adding a bit of dish soap to the water. "That avoids paper clogging," he says. "It's also good to let the paper soak, and have a wet rag in the other hand to wipe off the residue." One paint flaw that requires correction is orange peel, that bumpy surface caused by contaminants (see previous article for details). It may not be immediately evident (unless it's a severe case), but when you begin sanding and buffing, the residue reveals the raised areas of the paint. Like color-sanding, buffing can be a tedious and time-consuming process. Face starts with a white foam pad and a coarse polishing compound, working a small section at a time. After a couple of passes, you can actually feel the difference in the smoothness of the paint with your hand. Then he goes over the surface with a softer, black foam pad and a finer polishing compound. When it's all done, Face discourages waxing new paint for at least two months in order to let it cure properly. He actually prefers using the fine polishing compound instead of wax, but he likes the thinner detailing sprays as well. "