DIY 110 Amp Nissan Quest Alternator into KA24E - adapted from article

Post by **scruffy63** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 2:29 pm

well I got the bottom bolt and nut on. but I couldn't swivel the alternator to where it needed to be. it was banging against the top bracket. The one that bolts on to the block. all you have to do is loosen the 2 or 3 bolts holding on the bracket put the alternator where it needs to be then tighten down all the bracket and tensioner bolts. If it sounds complicated its really not. You'll figure it out for sure once you're actually looking at it.

as for your other questions I have no clue. I just wanted the extra amps when I needed them. not all the time.

Post by **homeslicej2** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 4:29 pm

Thanks scruff-mcgruff yeah, my bad. That makes much more sense actually and I followed it quite well. I will definitely get the 125. Having extra amps is always a good thing.

What engine are you running, the SOHC KA I presume? I noticed you're from GA too. Do you know of any good places in GA to get JDM clips from. I'm familiar with Jarco and have dealt with them before. Their prices are pretty good, but I am always looking for a deal. Have you heard of TopHatPerformance? I have heard good things about them and their work (I don't have the tools to do an install), but only from a couple of people. Any suggestions?

Post by **pmkls2** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 5:11 pm

I put the 125 amp in my '90 ka last week and it was the same as the 110 install but I ran into the same problem with the top bracket> I did the same as another guy suggested by loosening the top bracket bolts and slid the alt in place then tightened everything up. Stock belt will work just fine but you must slip it on before installing the top bolt on the alt because you need to slide it over farther than the slot will allow. Once you have the belt on it is plenty long enough to slide the alt back over and install the top bolt. I ran a 4 gauge wire directly from the post on the alt to the battery as that is actually how they "should" be wired anyways. My voltage runs about 14.7 at idle with no load and doesnt drop but a couple tenths with most accessories on. I also have dual electric fans and 2 amps that total over 2000 watts rms combined with no problem now. I dont have a cap yet so I dont blast it much with the car running as the sudden power spikes will kill a regulator quick. I can turn it up louder than before without the lights starting to flicker though.

Post by **homeslicej2** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 7:49 pm

Do you think you should run an inline fuse on the power wire between the alt and battery? I know that when I first thought about doing this I couldn't find where the alt wire went. All the other cars I owned went, like you said, straight to the bat, and then an additional wire ran from the bat to the fuse box. Let me know if you have any problems with the install, wire melting, alt frying, etc. because I will not do this for a couple weeks, probably a month or two, at best.

Post by **1989240sx** » Wed Jan 17, 2007 10:55 pm

i want to know if it wold do any thing to the ECU and what about the wiring would it melt at all because of the extra amps my friend has a 2000 frontier i was wonder if you could put a large alt on that too

Post by **scruffy63** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 12:22 am

homeslicej2 wrote:Thanks scruff-mcgruff yeah, my bad. That makes much more sense actually and I followed it quite well. I will definitely get the 125. Having extra amps is always a good thing.

What engine are you running, the SOHC KA I presume? I noticed you're from GA too. Do you know of any good places in GA to get JDM clips from. I'm familiar with Jarco and have dealt with them before. Their prices are pretty good, but I am always looking for a deal. Have you heard of TopHatPerformance? I have heard good things about them and their work (I don't have the tools to do an install), but only from a couple of people. Any suggestions?

well I know a guy who does installs in the 700-900 dollar range but I can't find his number. I'll find him soon though. I've seen his work too its A++

correction I just found him. Post your email if you want his number so you can talk to him.

Post by **homeslicej2** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 4:03 am

Thanks scruffy. I can't do a swap anytime soon, but I am trying to get prices right now. [email protected] (i'm still in school, that's why I have no money for parts and swaps)

As for 1989240's question. No it should not be a problem. People put high amp alternators on cars all the time for various reasons, stereos, help the eletronics, etc. with none of those problems. Most problems people have with high-amp aftermarket alternators is that they don't last long, especially if they're rebuilt stock ones that were rebuilt to produce more amps. Its like they are on cocaine all the time and they eventually pop. So a stock 125 should have better longevity and cost less than an aftermarket one. Also, I have seen old muscle cars, new muscle cars, ricers, and others run things like 160 & 180 amp powermaster or other brand alternators with no problems.

Post by **pmkls2** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 4:49 am

The wire going from the alt to the battery doesnt need to be fused. Most vehicles that are wired that way do not have a fuse. As long as the wire isnt in danger of rubbing through there is no need for a fuse. Having an alt with a higher amperage rating wont affect the electrical system in a negative way at all as it will only produce the amount needed to keep the voltage in the proper range. The rating of an alt is the max amount it can produce not what it puts out on a constant basis. Theoretically you could have an alt that can put out 500 amps and other than the need for a good charge wire coming out of it to be able to handle the load it wont harm the system if operating properly because the voltage regulator is intended to keep the output inline with the demand.

Post by **homeslicej2** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 5:51 am

Good point. Thanks for your help pmkls2.

Post by **pmkls2** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 2:21 pm

No prob and also I believe that if you check the diagram the alt fuse is actually in the circuit after the power has reached the battery and has moved on to the fuse box. I cant remember for sure but I am pretty sure that is how it is wired. The entire power delivery system on these cars is a little backwards from what I have seen on most domestics. Most domestics run a straight unfused wire to the alt and to the starter directly. This allows the alternator to charge the battery and the battery to supply the electrical system. It also allows for the most amount of voltage to reach the starter. This is also how I have rewired my car to be.

Post by **homeslicej2** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 6:58 pm

Yeah, the FSM alt wire route diagram looked like an electrical nightmare when I was trying to figure out where the alt wire went. I traced it, but it still left me that question, which you have answered. Yeah, I thought about after reading you post and remembered that my finacee's car and three of my previously owned cars had a wire straight to the battery from the alternator and then a secondary power wire from the battery to the underhood fuse box. They were all domestics. So when I do this upgrade I will just run a new wire. Thanks again for your help pmkls2.

Post by **jackmode9316** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 10:51 am

Will this swap still work if I have not installed an underdrive pulley? Kind of a dumb question but whatever.

Post by **homeslicej2** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 11:12 am

Read back through the thread. I don't recall it needing an underdrive pulley, but I haven't read it in awhile.

Post by **jackmode9316** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 11:30 am

I just noticed that People did it because they had an underdrive pulley. So let me make sure I know the scoop. I have a stock KA24E that Needs a new alternator. I could just replace the current alternator with one from a 97 quest(after drilling the holes of course., and not have to worry about replacing anything else? Im just sceptical about throwing on a more powerful alternator.

Post by **onosqv** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 11:45 am

You don't need an underdrive pulley. Just the belts will be different (you just bring belts into local autoparts store and get the next size larger/smaller/etc).

I currently have it installed on a ka24de w/ oem crank pulley.

This is just for more amps in general.

Post by **jackmode9316** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 12:11 pm

One last question. I noticed on my Ka alternator that it has 3 wires the Big one with the plug connector and I presume a power and ground. Out of 2 smaller wires there is one bigger then the other, Im guessing ground is the smaller one. Where does this connect on the Quest alternator? Looking at the pictures, it doesnt look as if it has a connector on the quest alternator.thanks

Post by **onosqv** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 12:28 pm

jackmode9316 wrote:One last question. I noticed on my Ka alternator that it has 3 wires the Big one with the plug connector and I presume a power and ground. Out of 2 smaller wires there is one bigger then the other, Im guessing ground is the smaller one. Where does this connect on the Quest alternator? Looking at the pictures, it doesnt look as if it has a connector on the quest alternator.thanks

If you are talking about what I think you are talking about, electrical connector goes to electrical connector plug. The bigger wire is the power wire that needs to be drilled out in step 3. The smaller wire is the ground wire which attaches via 8mm screw wherever your old one was connected.

Note in my description "10mm nut holding down the power wire & some other wires" - the other wires were for a weird dual battery setup, so you should only have the power wire.

brokeAs240sx wrote:1) ... There are 3 plugs that are attached to the back of the alternator: a small 8mm bolt holding the ground wire, and a 10mm nut holding down the power wire & some other wires, and lastly the electrical connector that needs to be pushed down then pulled out - I did so w/ a screwdriver since it was pretty stuck.

Post by **jackmode9316** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 1:08 pm

Well Here is the picture of the current alternator.

Here is the picture of the quest alternator

I do not see a smilar bolt or screw that I can attach this ground wire to on the quest alternator. P.S. Is the drilling in the bottom mount holes hard to complete. Any special percasions or anything?Thanls

Post by **onosqv** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 1:23 pm

In that pic, you have to reuse your own bolts... pretty much anywhere on the housing is fine (as long as it's not the power wire of course ).

I used the bolt you see on the furthest right across the housing of the power & plug wire.

*EDIT: as a note, mine came w/ all bolts I needed...

Post by **jackmode9316** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 6:56 am

Kind of a simple question, but I have never put on a belt before. Whats the procedure for doing that?

Post by **homeslicej2** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 8:14 am

Are you serious? j/k It takes while to fully explain in words so this isn't in-depth. Take all the stuff out of the way, intake, fan shroud, etc. There is a bolt that on the alt. mounting bracket. This bolt adjusts the tension on the belt. Loosen it until you can slip the old belt off. Install the new alt. following brokeAs240sx's instructions, slip belt on, tighten bolt, reinstall everything, check to make sure everything is where it should be (take pics along the way if you need to for reference), then turn the key over to see if it works. I think if you re-read the thread how to do everything is covered. I will add the FSM (Factory Service Manual) download link in a moment. It will help you w/lots of stuff. Follow the site directions to download it.

EDIT: Here you go: zerothread?id=219159

Post by **jackmode9316** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:18 am

Well I meant more in the instance of actually replacing the belt. I guess my question was just really general. Do I just take off the fan shroud and fit it around the front of the fan or what? I mean IF I have to buy a bigger belt....then how do I put it on? Im not sure where to start with that. Thanks though!

Post by **homeslicej2** » Fri Feb 16, 2007 2:54 pm

If you are replacing the alternator then yeah take off what you need to to get to the alt.: fan shroud, fan, intake, etc. Refer to the FSM. If this doesn't help then search, bc someone has covered it before. It may take awhile and you'll probably need to search archived content, but should find your answers. As for the belt, if you get the bigger alt. Take your old belt into the parts store and get that belt and the next size bigger and smaller. Do as I said w/the tension bolt on the mounting bracket to get the belt off and on.

If you are just putting a new belt on. Take the intake and fan off (a few bolts on the fan, use a wrench) and adjust tension bolt, take old belt off, put new belt on. You will have to take the fan off to put the belt on and I think the power steering belt has to comoe off 1st, but not sure bc my power steering wasn't hooked up when I bought the car and now my rack is shot so have to replace that 1st .

Does this help you?

Post by **jackmode9316** » Sat Feb 17, 2007 5:58 am

Thats what I needed to hear. Wasnt sure if I had to take the fan off also.

Post by **bnghyt** » Sun Feb 18, 2007 12:37 pm

brokeAs240sx --

My Quest alternator has been in the car about 3 hrs now.

I registered and all, to specifically reply to you and to thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge.

Big UP's

My turn signals are FLYIN' !

RE: The belt - Two sizes bigger seems to work the best.

Overall, a smooth, worthwhile mod.

*edit* for spelling...........

Post by **onosqv** » Sun Feb 18, 2007 10:32 pm

bnghyt wrote:brokeAs240sx --

My Quest alternator has been in the car about 3 hrs now.

I registered and all, to specifically reply to you and to thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge.

Big UP's

My turn signals are FLYIN' !

RE: The belt - Two sizes bigger seems to work the best.

Overall, a smooth, worthwhile mod.

*edit* for spelling...........

Glad you found the write up helpful. Now that you have an account, just stick around and check out the rest of the articles all the awesome ppl of Nico have done.

Post by **Enlefo** » Mon Mar 12, 2007 11:49 am

Installed a 99 125 amp quest alternator in my s14 last weekend. It's been working great. Had to file the bottom of the groove on the mounting bracket to get the thing to bolt in, also I did not have to bore out the alternator power cable, just clip one of the metal tabs off to get it to fit. Thanx a lot for the write up dude.

Post by **los_inc** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 7:40 am

i have a 89' SOHC ka24ei used a belt from a 90' q45 Part# 4040372 - 4PK0945 (goodyear gatorback)

Post by **Fenris** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 12:03 pm

Im doing this now and trying toget the belt onand i cant seem to rotate the alt over enough to put it on. Its hitting what the FSM is calling the PAIRC lines (this is on a KA24DE) and i was wondering how to fix this? Anyoneelse have this problem? Im about to grind/cut off the part where the PAIRC lines connect to the throtle body

Post by **drape123** » Sat Jul 07, 2007 1:06 pm

Fenris wrote:Im doing this now and trying toget the belt onand i cant seem to rotate the alt over enough to put it on. Its hitting what the FSM is calling the PAIRC lines (this is on a KA24DE) and i was wondering how to fix this? Anyoneelse have this problem? Im about to grind/cut off the part where the PAIRC lines connect to the throtle body

sorry to bring up this dead thread but i ran into the same problem a few months ago, i just got a hammer and beat the crap out of the pairc lines. i also grinded the top of the quest alternator a little bit and it bolted right in place.

also i had to get a belt that is .5 inches longer and it's been running great for about 3 months now.

DIY 110 Amp Nissan Quest Alternator into KA24E - adapted from article

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