Distributor engagement

1962-1965 Datsun L320 and NL320 forums - The truck that started it all in the US. All 320-specific topics and discussion can be found here.
deerio
Posts: 92
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2014 11:43 pm
Car: '63 L320
Location: Seattle, WA

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I was thinking the same thing Wayne, pulled out the plugs and cleaned them all and still no luck. I'm certain it's timed at 10degrees because once I had it running I was able to set the timing before it died. The rotor is the same height but the new one is actually like 1mm taller when installed so the cap fits kinda awkward. My next option is to out it in #1 TDC (again), rewire the cap (again)and use the old rotor to see if it helps.


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waynosworld
Posts: 232
Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2015 11:10 pm

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So when my 63 truck started giving me starting issues(the one I basically have given up on) I first pulled the dist. and bench tested it, I can get spark(weak), but after I install it on the truck I get no spark when turning it over, I know this because I put the timing light on it and turn it over with the key on, the timing light doesn't flash on any wire, keep in mind that I have all new everything, cap, points, condenser, wires, and these are OEM parts except for the wires.
So the first thing I would do is turn it over with the ignition on and see if you have spark while turning it over with the timing light, if you do, then you need to make sure you are on the correct stroke and not 180 out on the crank.
I don't know where you bought the rotor you have, but you should contact Tana and see if she has any new OEM ones left, here is her email address. [email protected]
I wish you luck, when you figure out what your issue is, make sure to publish it here, maybe it is the same issue I am having, I am considering an engine swap myself, I have hours and hours into trying to start this engine and have made no headway and have not looked at it in months now.
You said it quit while it was running, were you there when it happened, did it just quit, or did it start jerking and maybe backfiring and then die?

deerio
Posts: 92
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2014 11:43 pm
Car: '63 L320
Location: Seattle, WA

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Wayne,
I'm almost 99% sure it's not 180 out... I made sure to take the valve cover off and was looking at the intake valve on the #1 cylinder closing as it approached TDC and I'm sure the TDC mark on the crank is true because I used a centering tool to mark it.

The rotor is an Airtex model# 4R1187. Thought it was a direct replacement but I guess it's slightly off?

I was watching it up close both times that it died. And each time it was a pretty smooth cutoff. Almost similar to turning off the key on he ignition.

deerio
Posts: 92
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2014 11:43 pm
Car: '63 L320
Location: Seattle, WA

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Well I feel stupid...

I decided to check out the carb to make certain I was getting fuel... After an up close look... The bowl was empty :facepalm: Turns out what I thought was the fuel level was actually part of a line of discoloration left on the float.

Gave the fuel pump a quick prime and she fired right up!!! Lesson learned.

It looks slightly advanced to about 12.5deg but runs great, idles solid around 650rpm. Will probably have to do something about the distributor rotor tho, upon closer inspection I can see the cap wobble as it spins. The slight extra height with the new rotor throws off the fit enough to make the cap look like it's uncomfortable.

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waynosworld
Posts: 232
Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2015 11:10 pm

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Here is the thing guy, on the stroke that the spark plug fires the intake valve closes at the bottom of the stroke and then the piston comes up and it then fires, so that is half a turn of the crank that the intake valve is closed, it's open while the piston is going down pulling in fresh air/fuel, and then it closes and then the fuel/air are compressed while the piston is coming back up, when it gets to the top you have a spark to force the piston back down, so the intake valve doesn't move for almost a full turn.
The intake should not move almost a half turn either direction, at least I believe that is the way it works.
Another way to put it is that when the intake closes, it should be about half a turn of the crank to TDC(the compression stroke).
Maybe I am not thinking straight, correct me if I am wrong.


Well I guess you figured it out from reading the post above, but I will leave my post here so that others will understand how I believe one can find #1 compression stroke.

deerio
Posts: 92
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2014 11:43 pm
Car: '63 L320
Location: Seattle, WA

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Wayne you're absolutely correct about finding TDC. That's exactly what I meant to say, I guess I just didn't explain it as well.

The TDC mark on the crank was met half a turn AFTER the intake valve closed, thus: compression stroke.

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waynosworld
Posts: 232
Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2015 11:10 pm

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Well the 1963 Datsun L320 I mentioned I have that has not run in a couple years now, today it finally started, I had the carb rebuilt professionally, I put new wires, cap, rotor, points, condenser, plugs, and a coil just yesterday, I pulled the dist out today again because I had almost non-existent spark when separating the points to check for spark, I figured that out, I pulled number one spark plug out and stuck a screw driver in the hole and turned it till it was for sure at TDC, I have never done this before, I have always guessed where it should be, there is no timing mark on the front cover, I turned the dist. till it gave me a jolt, put number one plug back in, and the damned thing finally started, I then timed it by ear, and it runs pretty good now, and it only took a couple years.
It did not run very well when it first started, it likely had a couple years of fuel in the engine from it not starting for all that time, I tried everything today, I tried it 180 out in case I was retarded about that, it didn't start, so I put it back to the way I thought it should be, I think I just got everything finally sorted out today at the same time, it was just time for it to start I guess, I am so freaking happy to put this issue behind me.

deerio
Posts: 92
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2014 11:43 pm
Car: '63 L320
Location: Seattle, WA

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Congrats Wayne! I bet you were so elated when it started! I'm glad both of us got these things going again! Even the wobble from my distributor cap is gone, so I'll keep it as is for a while.

Quick question to everyone: Do your coils have an external resistor? My resistor currently has around 1.6-1.8 Ohms of resistance and I was wondering if that would be fine or if I should use an external resistor? I'd hate to wear something out prematurely if possible...


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