I took the flywheel to the machinist and he was having problems determining if it should be cut all flat or with a step in it. I told him its going to need a step, he agreed! I called up Centerforce and asked them what kind of step he has to cut into it. The sales rep i talked to told me .004". I called the flywheel guy and he said that that didnt seem right. It was way too small. He would of expected like .020-.040". He called up Centerforce and he looked up other Nissans and he said that most are cut flat. He recommended i take out the flywheel thats in the KA and see what that has. I already ordered the Centerforce DF clutch for the DOHC KA. I need some help with this, i cant get this wrong!!!
CA T25 Rebuild:
Also heres some pictures of my ca t25 rebuild. Its a pretty cool to know how these little guys work! It was actually a really straight forward job. Follow the instructions, get the right tools, and just give it a shot. My goal of this job was to rebuild a turbocharger using new seals and bearings from a service kit.
Heres some shots of what the turbo looked like when i got the engine. My first impression was that its really small and i wasnt sure if it was in "good" condition. I know you are suppose to measure shaft axial play to check for wear and tear on the internals. It didnt move too much but i never bothered to use a dial indicator although i should've.
I let the turbo sit around for a while and oil would come out this side if i left the compressor side facing down. My guess was that the seals were bad.
There it is on the longblock with most things still bolted in place.
I put tape on there so the oil wouldnt drip on the floor. Oil coming out of the compressor or exhaust side doesnt sound too good to me. A rebuild is definately in order.
Heres a few things youre going to need to do this. Ill try and list prices and where you can find these things.
Socket and wrench sets. Basic tools.
T25/28 Rebuild kit with dynamic seal (my choice) $72.85 off
http://www.ebay.com
Make sure you've got everything you need!
Snap ring pliers
Some motor oil
Instructions or guide. Here is the best one i found
http://photo.platonoff.com/Aut...uild/!
Heres the turbo all apart. I didnt get a chance to take pictures of the dissembly but its easier to take something apart rather than to put it back together. Anyways i did get pictures of the build up so you could back track aswell.
Here are the major pieces that make up the turbo. I cleaned everything up in a solvent tank and a wire brush! Looks way better now.
Heres my Dremel i used to clean up the area where the CHRA and the exhaust housing meet. Mine rusted a bit and i had to use a torch and rubber mallet to take it apart. It finally came apart and then i decided id clean this up and remove the rust. I then put a little bit of anti-seize on here to prevent this later.
Aluminum compressor housing...
Compressor housing...
And again. I never knew thats what they looked like on the inside. Pretty cool!
Compressor and turbine wheels with center shaft and all seals and bushings/bearings. I made two reference marks, one on each side as to not throw the balance off. I've heard that Garret balances these from the factory in two ways. One way is with all the rotating pieces seperately, or the other way is all together as one assembly. Ive also heard of people hacing turbos rebalanced after all rebuilds not just when changing wheels. Im not 100% sure so i just made referrence marks and hope that this will be enough. If it all fails well then i learned something atleast. Ill see what happens.
Compressor wheel.
Turbine wheel! Oooh carbon and soot build up.
Heres a good high resolution shot of the compressor wheel! Its pretty cool how you can see the two impellers/blades. It feels very lightweight and really fragile, i wouldnt drop it.
Turbo ID.
Garrett ID numbers.
CHRA ID plate.
Heres what came out of the turbo. There plenty of small pieces so make sure youre organized and keep track of everything and the way it goes.
CHRA internals. These will be changed and freshened up. New seals and bearings.
There are two types of bearings, use the correct ones!
Heres the old seals and what i thought was a retainer type clip.
You can see the old seal there.
New seal is put on.
Next install the washers and retainer clips.
Think about this one here. Look at the way the clip is shaped and the way it is able to be moved.
Open it up and rotate it on.
This is what yours should look like!
Install this c-clip with a small enough internal snap ring plier.
It fits inside the CHRA in a cut out. It will just snap right into place and it what holds the bearings from moving.
Get the first bearing and put it in your oil.
Put it into the turbine side.
This washer follows the turbine side bearing.
Put the other bearing in oil.
Insert it into the compressor side.
Next prepare the thrust bearing and and collar and install that seal("C") on the bearing part.
Here it is installed on the bearing. Use some thing like snap ring pliers to pry the end open enough.
Put the parts into oil.
Install the thrust bearing and collar the correct way. Pay attention to the desgin of the metal and the way it was originally.
This is how it is suppose to be.
Next find the three bolts that hold the collar and bearing in place. They are very small and do not require a lot of torque. It appears that they even come with a type of "loc-tite."
Use a T-15 Torx bit to tighten.
Tighten the bolts.
Next grab the dynamic seal plate, the rubber seal, and the right size internal c-clip, you'll know which one.
O-ring, then seal plate, then c-clip. Done.
Turbine side cover.
Again.
Install the CHRA internals through. The shaft wont go through all the way and will be forced through once you tighten the shaft left threaded nut.
Get you nut onto the shaft. Make sure you check your compressor and turbine wheel/shaft markings. This is what i used to "maintain balance."
Tighten the nut once satisfied with position of wheels.
Next you will install the huge o-ring and huge internal c-clip. Use the correct size snap ring pliers and what youre alignment with the exhaust housing side.
Grab your four new bolts and exhaust housing back plates. You might have to leave these a little loose when youre trying to line up the housings and when youre mounting it on the exhaust manifold.
And this is it! Put it all back together and mount it back up. Check fitment or any obvious signs of something not being right.
It definately looks a lot better now and i feel confident of the work i did. I hope all goes well and it can have some fun with this rebuilt turbo.
Heres a good look at the exhaust side wheel on the turbo. Im waiting on a downpipe.
This didnt cost me a whole lot and i did learn something. Not to mention it was fun seeing how this thing worked. I feel like im getting somewhere i want to find out. I like doing things like this so others can either learn from what ive done and even correcting my mistakes. This is my way of giving back to the CA community as it has given to me and continues to give and grow. My engine swap project is nearing closer and closer so its hard not to be excited. Theres more to come and stay tuned!
Modified by davidricardo86 at 8:35 PM 4/9/2007
Modified by davidricardo86 at 11:21 PM 4/12/2007