You are motivating me to tear my CA apart when I finally get back. I don't know if I have the skills to do it though. Navy Auto Hobby Shop FTW (I hope).

Anyway, awesome progress. Keepem comin bro. Almost there........

Check it out guys...

I havent posted in a while but its because ive been working on the engine and taking pictures of the progress. Heres some pictures of what ive been currrently doing. This past week ive been going to my school and getting as much as possible done as the deadline draws near. Im still missing a few things here and there like the exhaust system, intercooler system, and other miscellaneous parts. So far ive just been putting back together what i have available and still waiting on my cam covers aswell. Im also still waiting on my income tax return refund and some paycheck money. Once i have this money, im buying some more things.

Rear cam gear plate goes on. Line it up and bolt it down! Install the tensioner and spring afterwards. Torque down the idler pulley if you havent done so already. Make sure you torque down everything according to OEM specifications!

Using a correct size allen wrench/key to rotate the tensioner in a way so that the timing belt can go on. Remember to set number one piston to top dead center and line up the marks on the crank and cam gears.

Here it is installed! Make sure everthing is lined up correctly and nothing hits, like piston to valves.

Thats it!

Heres a nice black and white.

Picasa picture editing program to the rescue! Install lower timing belt cover.

Install the cam gear cover.

Heres a shot with the cam gear/timing belt covers back on. These were powder coated "Little Wagon Red."

Some more photo editing by me.

Heres a test fit of the remainder of the intake manifold. I also test fit the exhuast manifold and rebuilt CA t25 tubro. When installing the Crank/Cam Angle Sensor line up the spline in the camshaft with the shaft on the sensor. Do no force anything as it has become a common thing for this to break off. I dont know how as it isnt rocket science but just ease it in, nice and slow. Finger tighten your three bolts that hold it to the cam cover and leave them loose incase you need to adjust timing later.

Black and white of the test fitting.

And i cant think of a better caption for this one.

Nismo adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator and my nicely redone fuel rail. Replaced the phillips style bolts with hex head because of less chance of stripping the bolt. Looks better this way.

Here i cleaned up the area in and around the thermostat housing. We still need the coolant temp sensors.

New thermostat and gasket...

Torque down the three bolts and youre done!

Rear collector cover for the intake manifold. This is so i have something of how the hoses were origanally.

Looking more complete! I still need to install the injectors and fuel rail. Hoses and lines are next.

Remember to install the coolant temp sensors as shown. I like taking lots of pictures!

Heres a good shot of the powedercoated manifold. Its not the greatest but it sure looks really nice in the red. The whole scheme came out pretty damn good towards the end.

This ones a little easier to see.

A performance rebuilt CA18DET, $2600.00+ and counting... The day i get it running, priceless.

Incase i didnt mention it earlier, the oil pan is installed using Nissan RTV type sealant and new front and rear seals.

A closer look...

and another...

I installed the throttle body and tested the TPS but couldnt verify if it is truely working correctly. There was a break in the signal when testing with a DVOM but i havent tested it with a Digital Osiliscope so i cant deem it worthless just yet. I am going to go buy a new TPS and compare the new one to my old one.

Im soon coming up on a year since i got this engine and its not yet complete. By the end of the month, April, i plan on having it done. Im glad ill be getting help from others, teachers, and the school shop for this one.

Nice!

Heres the exhaust side without a manifold yet. Im currently shopping around for an aftermarket manifold and ive almost narrowed it down. Its most than likely going to be an "Ebay" manifold. I think im going with a Megan Racing turbo outlet and flex downpipe. Any ideas?

Cornered away...

Now theres a good side shot. Fuel rail, injectors, seals, and o-rings all installed.

Heres a good look at the Butterfly Vacuum Actuator and Nismo Adj Fuel Regulator. I tested the vacuum pot and it held vacuum so i can assume it is still in good condition. I also replaced the phillips type bolts with hex head style for increased strength. These little suckers dont like to come out when they've been sitting in there for years and years.

Heres the original 370cc injectors that came with my motorset. I did a resistance check, replaced the o-rings, replaced the other rubber grommet, and made sure they were clean from any obstructions or clogs. I could have had them sent out to have them further tested and balance test, etc. but i didnt think i should be too worried as these arent that expensive to replace. Before i put them into the fuel rail, i made sure there was no debris inside and put a little bit of oil on the o-rings to ease them in.

Stock fuel system will do, for now.

Theres my rebuilt CA T25 and manifold. I rebuilt it myself using common tools and instructions i found online. Before this, i had never done this so it'll be good to see what happens. If it all blows and fails, well i wont feel so bad as it didnt cost me much and it was a great learning experience. I made marks and lined up the compressor wheel and turbine wheel so i think ill be ok. Ive heard that these things were balanced by Garrett individually piece by piece or as an assembly. Im just hoping to get a few thousand miles out of it and then comes an upgrade. Ill post any news if anything happens.

Dont you just love that freshly rebuilt engine smell...

Backside view of the exhaust housing and turbine wheel. Plans for the turbo are Taka SS lines and Megan Racing Outlet and Downpipe.

Rear top view...

Front view...

Another rear-end view?!

Sub-manifold and misc accesories...

Sometimes i take tooooo many pictures...

Heres a shot of the cleaned up mating surface for the idle control devices. On the bottom left you can see a part of the idle control valves all cleaned up and ready to go. I also tested the valves/devices according to the FSM and made sure they are within specs. I disassembled the valves and made sure the moving pistons/peices inside were free to move and not sticking. Hopefully this will eliminate any future problems related to idle and warm up.

New gaskets and free moving parts. Those little pistons at the bottom left came from the Auxiliary Air Control valve.

A close up of you know what...

If youre thinking, where the hell are his cam covers, well heres what happened. When i went to pick up all the pieces that i got powdercoated, i looked at the cam covers and refused to use them the way the company left them. The coating was bubbling and flaking off, especially at the flat mating surface where the "ornament" cover goes (c.o.p. cover). They also bubbled up on the top of the covers and were very noticeable. For what i paid, i didnt expect THAT from them. I took them back, talked to the powdercoater, and he agreed he would go back and try again to get them smoother and looking better. I'll post pics later when i get them back.

Side view of motor and manifold setup.

Would there be a risk in not putting back the brackets that come originally on the engine? Has anyone done this(im sure someone has)? Any experience with this?

Some picture i took for some reason i do not remember. I think it was just to show off the red manifold.

There the Idle Air Adjusting Unit, it includes the AAC and FCID.

Under construction...

Modified by davidricardo86 at 12:47 AM 3/29/2007

Modified by davidricardo86 at 5:13 PM 3/29/2007
Modified by davidricardo86 at 6:08 PM 3/29/2007

Good stuff bro. Keep it up. Those are some yellow glasses. Im jealous. I want to get a ca engine lol.

awwww i want one

burntricer wrote:awwww i want one

x2

Lookin REALLY good. More pics as you progress!

just went through the whole build from page one.. looks like your during it all the right way.. wish i could of had the time and money to have broken down mine all the way and rebuilt it.. but good job looking good and must be nice to have that school shop at your disposal like that..

mrzabala wrote:Good stuff bro. Keep it up. Those are some yellow glasses. Im jealous. I want to get a ca engine lol.

Hahaha thanks dude! Its almost done so lets see what this thing can do! That and ill find out if i can control it. Soon after the engine swap ill be doing a suspension overhaul. A lot of things are going good so far, id rather keep it that way.

burntricer wrote:awwww i want one

Get one! You dont know what youre missing! CA monsters!

Juanit0 wrote:
x2

You too! Get one.

jiggy180 wrote:Lookin REALLY good. More pics as you progress!

Thanks dude! Did you see how many i uploaded? Its crazy how many i can take... lol... But ill update with progress as soon as i can upload it and post. I think i made it over the hump! Oh yeah!

slidecrave wrote:just went through the whole build from page one.. looks like your during it all the right way.. wish i could of had the time and money to have broken down mine all the way and rebuilt it.. but good job looking good and must be nice to have that school shop at your disposal like that..

Thanks! Glad to hear yah. I really really want to start driving this and its been hard waiting till that day. I think ill be happier later though, knowing i did it right the first time and rebuilt it first. This way "I" know what in there because "I" put it there some how. Atleast thats how i view it.

Oh its great that i get to use the tools, and equipment there! It makes the job a lot easier if you've got the right tools, not to mention the resources. I didnt think they would of let me do the swap there but considering that its a task as part of my Auto Service class, i asked the instructor and he said "Ok, as long as i meet the deadline." Its getting close and ive been trying to gather prices and info on last minute things. I know ill miss something and ill prbably have to have cash and credit on hand incase i need to buy something to get it running.

Any suggestions or ideas?

c-rad wrote:
That's hogwash!

Yeah, and I live on the 3rd floor

EVERY ONE and i mean EVERY ONE should have a CA18DET in ther kitchen

Yup everyone should!

Hey listen, I've been trying to decide between three clutches:

Centerforce Stage I $169.00Cenfterforce Stage II $225.00Centerforce Dual Friction $275.00

My motor isnt built up with too many things except with what ive posted so far so i dont know if i want to spend the money on the most expensive one. I was considering going with the DF because of its best holding capacity, best centrifugal weights, and best clutch disc design and material. I have an old 11.10lb/5.04kg lightweight flywheel that came with the motorset and i plan on using that. Its still has enough meat on it but im not sure if it needs to be stepped for this type of clutch. Would it affect anything if i didnt?

I do plan on upgrading the turbocharger to a larger unit later. I do have the money for the "best one" so i think im going to get it!

Get the DF buddy, you'll be glad you did.

Also, yes, the flywheel will need stepped.

Hey I was wondering that plug was that is coming out of the hexagon shaped part coming out of the ECCS?

float_6969 wrote:Get the DF buddy, you'll be glad you did.

Also, yes, the flywheel will need stepped.

You know what i was leaning towards the DF also because when the time comes to make more power, the clutch will be ready to take it on! Plus i dont know if ill be able to use the flywheel again after this resurfacing so ill just get the DF. It should be a pretty slick combo, light weight flywheel and Centerforce DF FTW!

justinchrist02 wrote:Hey I was wondering that plug was that is coming out of the hexagon shaped part coming out of the ECCS?

Im not sure i understand what youre talking about? Is this on the intake manifold? Exhaust? On the head, block, etc?

jautoS13 wrote:EVERY ONE and i mean EVERY ONE should have a CA18DET in ther kitchen

will having had it in the bedroom suffice..

I took the flywheel to the machinist and he was having problems determining if it should be cut all flat or with a step in it. I told him its going to need a step, he agreed! I called up Centerforce and asked them what kind of step he has to cut into it. The sales rep i talked to told me .004". I called the flywheel guy and he said that that didnt seem right. It was way too small. He would of expected like .020-.040". He called up Centerforce and he looked up other Nissans and he said that most are cut flat. He recommended i take out the flywheel thats in the KA and see what that has. I already ordered the Centerforce DF clutch for the DOHC KA. I need some help with this, i cant get this wrong!!!

CA T25 Rebuild:

Also heres some pictures of my ca t25 rebuild. Its a pretty cool to know how these little guys work! It was actually a really straight forward job. Follow the instructions, get the right tools, and just give it a shot. My goal of this job was to rebuild a turbocharger using new seals and bearings from a service kit.

Heres some shots of what the turbo looked like when i got the engine. My first impression was that its really small and i wasnt sure if it was in "good" condition. I know you are suppose to measure shaft axial play to check for wear and tear on the internals. It didnt move too much but i never bothered to use a dial indicator although i should've.

I let the turbo sit around for a while and oil would come out this side if i left the compressor side facing down. My guess was that the seals were bad.

There it is on the longblock with most things still bolted in place.

I put tape on there so the oil wouldnt drip on the floor. Oil coming out of the compressor or exhaust side doesnt sound too good to me. A rebuild is definately in order.

Heres a few things youre going to need to do this. Ill try and list prices and where you can find these things.

Socket and wrench sets. Basic tools.

T25/28 Rebuild kit with dynamic seal (my choice) $72.85 off http://www.ebay.com

Make sure you've got everything you need!

Snap ring pliers

Some motor oil

Instructions or guide. Here is the best one i found http://photo.platonoff.com/Aut...uild/!

Heres the turbo all apart. I didnt get a chance to take pictures of the dissembly but its easier to take something apart rather than to put it back together. Anyways i did get pictures of the build up so you could back track aswell.

Here are the major pieces that make up the turbo. I cleaned everything up in a solvent tank and a wire brush! Looks way better now.

Heres my Dremel i used to clean up the area where the CHRA and the exhaust housing meet. Mine rusted a bit and i had to use a torch and rubber mallet to take it apart. It finally came apart and then i decided id clean this up and remove the rust. I then put a little bit of anti-seize on here to prevent this later.

Aluminum compressor housing...

Compressor housing...

And again. I never knew thats what they looked like on the inside. Pretty cool!

Compressor and turbine wheels with center shaft and all seals and bushings/bearings. I made two reference marks, one on each side as to not throw the balance off. I've heard that Garret balances these from the factory in two ways. One way is with all the rotating pieces seperately, or the other way is all together as one assembly. Ive also heard of people hacing turbos rebalanced after all rebuilds not just when changing wheels. Im not 100% sure so i just made referrence marks and hope that this will be enough. If it all fails well then i learned something atleast. Ill see what happens.

Compressor wheel.

Turbine wheel! Oooh carbon and soot build up.

Heres a good high resolution shot of the compressor wheel! Its pretty cool how you can see the two impellers/blades. It feels very lightweight and really fragile, i wouldnt drop it.

Turbo ID.

Garrett ID numbers.

CHRA ID plate.

Heres what came out of the turbo. There plenty of small pieces so make sure youre organized and keep track of everything and the way it goes.

CHRA internals. These will be changed and freshened up. New seals and bearings.

There are two types of bearings, use the correct ones!

Heres the old seals and what i thought was a retainer type clip.

You can see the old seal there.

New seal is put on.

Next install the washers and retainer clips.

Think about this one here. Look at the way the clip is shaped and the way it is able to be moved.

Open it up and rotate it on.

This is what yours should look like!

Install this c-clip with a small enough internal snap ring plier.

It fits inside the CHRA in a cut out. It will just snap right into place and it what holds the bearings from moving.

Get the first bearing and put it in your oil.

Put it into the turbine side.

This washer follows the turbine side bearing.

Put the other bearing in oil.

Insert it into the compressor side.

Next prepare the thrust bearing and and collar and install that seal("C") on the bearing part.

Here it is installed on the bearing. Use some thing like snap ring pliers to pry the end open enough.

Put the parts into oil.

Install the thrust bearing and collar the correct way. Pay attention to the desgin of the metal and the way it was originally.

This is how it is suppose to be.

Next find the three bolts that hold the collar and bearing in place. They are very small and do not require a lot of torque. It appears that they even come with a type of "loc-tite."

Use a T-15 Torx bit to tighten.

Tighten the bolts.

Next grab the dynamic seal plate, the rubber seal, and the right size internal c-clip, you'll know which one.

O-ring, then seal plate, then c-clip. Done.

Turbine side cover.

Again.

Install the CHRA internals through. The shaft wont go through all the way and will be forced through once you tighten the shaft left threaded nut.

Get you nut onto the shaft. Make sure you check your compressor and turbine wheel/shaft markings. This is what i used to "maintain balance."

Tighten the nut once satisfied with position of wheels.

Next you will install the huge o-ring and huge internal c-clip. Use the correct size snap ring pliers and what youre alignment with the exhaust housing side.

Grab your four new bolts and exhaust housing back plates. You might have to leave these a little loose when youre trying to line up the housings and when youre mounting it on the exhaust manifold.

And this is it! Put it all back together and mount it back up. Check fitment or any obvious signs of something not being right.

It definately looks a lot better now and i feel confident of the work i did. I hope all goes well and it can have some fun with this rebuilt turbo.

Heres a good look at the exhaust side wheel on the turbo. Im waiting on a downpipe.

This didnt cost me a whole lot and i did learn something. Not to mention it was fun seeing how this thing worked. I feel like im getting somewhere i want to find out. I like doing things like this so others can either learn from what ive done and even correcting my mistakes. This is my way of giving back to the CA community as it has given to me and continues to give and grow. My engine swap project is nearing closer and closer so its hard not to be excited. Theres more to come and stay tuned!

Modified by davidricardo86 at 8:35 PM 4/9/2007
Modified by davidricardo86 at 11:21 PM 4/12/2007

I noticed in the pics with the motor mostly together your CAS is rather advanced. adjust it to the middle of its adjustment range before firing it up, that should put it close to correct and save you some headaches until you can get it properly timed (after warming it up etc)

hi mate, your engine is mint, im new to the 200sx scene just finished rebuilding my engine, ive become a little stuck though and the manuals dont really help much, im struggling with the rear collector on the inlet manifold! ive forgotten where the hoses go from it, ive seen your pictures of the inlet manifold etc but i cant see the collector clear enough to see exactly where the hoses go! can you help? do you have or can you get any more pics of the rear collector all connected up? if you could it would really help me out as it would be a real shame if i messed it up,

I have read very few threads as informative as this on ANY TOPIC.

might we make this a sticky? just with the shear number of pictures there is hardly anything left unseen and any future builders would be very lucky to read this thread. Great thread just for people who need a pic to describe something in another thread on any forum.....

Keep it up.

biosehnsucht wrote:I noticed in the pics with the motor mostly together your CAS is rather advanced. adjust it to the middle of its adjustment range before firing it up, that should put it close to correct and save you some headaches until you can get it properly timed (after warming it up etc)

Ok thanks for the heads up! Luckily i installed adjustable cam gears and i check to see if this was still loose. It is loose because ill tighten it later when i check and set the timing.

garyenglish wrote:hi mate, your engine is mint, im new to the 200sx scene just finished rebuilding my engine, ive become a little stuck though and the manuals dont really help much, im struggling with the rear collector on the inlet manifold! ive forgotten where the hoses go from it, ive seen your pictures of the inlet manifold etc but i cant see the collector clear enough to see exactly where the hoses go! can you help? do you have or can you get any more pics of the rear collector all connected up? if you could it would really help me out as it would be a real shame if i messed it up,

Ill try and post pictures ASAP. Ive been very busy with work, school, the engine project and the rest of life. Ill take pictures of how im going to run it and remember ive got the 8 port head and intake manifold with working NICS (runner butterfly valves). Today Friday the 13 ill be pulling out the old KA. Ill have pics asap.

ca18detgabby wrote:I have read very few threads as informative as this on ANY TOPIC.

might we make this a sticky? just with the shear number of pictures there is hardly anything left unseen and any future builders would be very lucky to read this thread. Great thread just for people who need a pic to describe something in another thread on any forum.....

Keep it up.

Thank you! I've put a lot of time, effort, and money into this project. Im happy that im almost done with it too, even though this is really the begining. Im more than happy to donate this thread to the stickies! Mods if you guys are listening...

I actually was thinking about making a new thread for the stickies with some of the build ups from some of the members. I started one and others could too! What do you guys think?

Here some pictures of the progress. These here are going to show basically the remaining hoses, metal pipes, brackets, etc that were still not on the engine. I bought new hoses and clamps and cleaned up the metal coolant pipes. Everything is almost back the way it originally was and its going great. Coming up soon is the harness and electrical stuff.

4 New NGK BCPR6EIX11-11 Iridium spark plugs pre-gapped and ready to go!

Apply anti-sieze to threads as shown. This will make sure they'll come out again without eating up threads.

Heres what i used. Any others brand should be sufficient.

Make sure to tighten the plugs to the manufacturers spec, always! IIRC it was no more than 12-15 ft lbs. Every few thousand or so miles, its not a bad idea to take the plugs out just to make sure they dont seize up.

If you want you can toss the crank pulley on. I did and had to get it off soon after to replace the cam gears. I put a little anti-seize on the crank and that will help with corrosion and that damn evil crank sprocket aswell!

Install this gasket onto the compressor outlet.

Manifold.

The PCV is on the top left of the collector cover. I replaced this as its not a bad idea to vent the crankcase.

Front side.

Left side.

Close up.

Heres the back, i was trying to figure out how the coolant and oil lines went i did not remember at all. Well just a little but i was lost thats for sure.

Rebuilt alternator and starter. I also had the pullies put on.

And there they are on the engine.

There i am messing around with either cooland, oil or air hoses. I had to use the FSM and Nissan FAST to help me out on this. It wasnt too hard.

Adjusting something.

I was surprised how many things had to be bolted to the intake manifold. Theres a lot!

Still waiting on my aftermarket exhaust manifold.

I wont be using the oem exhaust manifold. Ill hold on to it incase anything were to happen.

Heres a good shot of the PS pulley and my new belts!

Ooo.

Heres how i started hooking up the lines behind the manifold. These vacuum lines are for my FPR, Power Valve System, and Turbo.

Heres the air regulator and some coolant lines.

The rebuilt alternator should last a few years.

OBX adjustable cam gears for engine model CA18DET. I bought these and figured id give them a shot. Its a cam gear, its not exactly a complicated device.

It actually looks very nice in person and i liked how the degree marking are very visible and easy to adjust.

Its not the greatest but itll get the job done.

Heres a side-by-side of a "Tomei" style cam gear and the OBX unit. The OBX is aluminum and its very lightweight. The Tomei one is steal and aluminum, still a little bit heavier.

Check this out! The bolts on the OBX ones are thicker and bigger. I see that as an advantage. Both probably lock just fine. Im selling the Tomei cam gears by the way!

lets install those new cam gears.

Remove the top timing belt cover.

Loosen the tensioner and remove timing belt.

Install cam gears and torque the bolts to spec!

Make sure you set the timing to "0." This will be adjusted later on a dyno.

Align the marks on the back plate with the marks on the cam gears and prepare to install belt.

You might have to use an adjustable wrench as shown to hold the cams from moving or to move them in the right spot.

Belt is installed.

Top cover is installed and tightened down.

Thrown on the Crank Angel Sensor.

Put on your pulley(s) and belts.

And thats it for right now!

Modified by davidricardo86 at 8:09 PM 4/15/2007
Modified by davidricardo86 at 11:06 PM 4/17/2007

I assume those OBX Cam gears aren't labeled for a CA, what are they?

David, you always pull through. Just the pictures them self will help when I buy a ca engine and do a rebuild on it. Great job, keep it up. One of the nicest ca builds I've seen on nico.

David.....you have me nervous. I saw your turbo rebuild photos and compared them to what I did (rebuilt S14 non ball bearing turbo), that retaining ring you spiraled onto the end of the turbine shaft next to the seal......when I took my turbo apart that peice was used to lock down the washer that goes ontop of the bearing. When I rebuilt it I put it back the same way. It seems to spin fine and fit together nicely.....but its different than what you did. Are you POSITIVE that peice fits over the shaft like that? Can anyone else confirm this? If Im wrong, I guess its possible the turbo was incorrectly rebuilt before me.....it was known to have leaky seals so maybe?

-m

240 Trainee wrote:I assume those OBX Cam gears aren't labeled for a CA, what are they?

Actually they are! Here, some other people have asked about this. Its a mini-review i guess.zerothread?id=244553

mrzabala wrote:David, you always pull through. Just the pictures them self will help when I buy a ca engine and do a rebuild on it. Great job, keep it up. One of the nicest ca builds I've seen on nico.

You like ey?! Im just happy that im almost going to get to use the damn thing! Can you wait about a year rebuilding your engine and not being able to drive it spending lots and lots of money but not really "getting anywhere?" lol It was hard but i can literally taste the rebuilt CA exhaust now. I got you! I got more updates. Juicy updates!

mbmbmb23 wrote:David.....you have me nervous. I saw your turbo rebuild photos and compared them to what I did (rebuilt S14 non ball bearing turbo), that retaining ring you spiraled onto the end of the turbine shaft next to the seal......when I took my turbo apart that peice was used to lock down the washer that goes ontop of the bearing. When I rebuilt it I put it back the same way. It seems to spin fine and fit together nicely.....but its different than what you did. Are you POSITIVE that peice fits over the shaft like that? Can anyone else confirm this? If Im wrong, I guess its possible the turbo was incorrectly rebuilt before me.....it was known to have leaky seals so maybe?

-m

Maybe! But i followed the instructions i posted and it was a breeze. Maybe i did it wrong (not likely)?! Ill let you know if i get into any problems with this turbo. I just put back what the instructions said, and reinstalled what i removed from the old worn out turbo internals.

KA24DE Removal

Heres some pictures of me and a few friends at school removing the old KA. This was on Friday April 13. She was good to me, never gave any problems! I will miss you KA but i fell in love with a new girl, her name is rebuilt CA. Yeah i need a life! But any how, heres whats up with my build. It took us almost 8 hours trying to get this damn thing out! Theres little things here and there that we missed but eventually it came out. It was very dirty but all in all was still running like a champ! I removed everything that belongs to the KA ( harness, coil, evap stuff, etc.) and will be selling it very soon. If anyone needs a used KA24DE in good mechanical condition, hit me up. I recommend rebuilding it as the odometer read 108k when this thing came out. I will make an official "KA Sell Thread" sometime soon.

Heres my car ready to be disected. Using this type of lift, air tools and the help from others made this job that much easier.

Theres one of the dudes that helped me out. Here were just removing and disconnecting stuff.

Underbody. Remove the radiator, clutch fan, fan shroud, clutch slave line, and loosen the motor and trans mounts.

The exhaust must be removed. I cut this off as it wont help me with the CA.

Before unbolting the driveshaft make referrence marks on the drive shaft and its original bolted location. This will maintain original balance. Unbolt the driveshaft at the rear where it bolts to the rear differential. Unbolt the center bearing aswell and take this off as one piece. Pull and slide the driveshaft out of the transmission. If you did not drain the trans, youre going to get oil everywhere, so drain it beforehand.

Here is the driveshaft! It fits on to the CA trans but the dust collar needs to be removed.

Yeah were kind of a bunch of wierdo technicians.

Wow it actually looks roomy now!

Heres a good shot of the KAs exterior condition. Internally this thing is still good. I recently compression and leakage tested it and its still within manufacturers spec! I would rebuild it anyways though.

I want to include EVERYTHING in my sale (although i might need a few things). This way i can sell it for more and the buyer will be happy he gets all the necessary parts.

Oh here comes the hoist! Almost out?!

Find some good spots to chain it up. I used my exhaust manifold bolt and number one intake manifold runner with bolts, nuts and washers.

Check to make sure its going to be secure and safe to pull it out.

By this time you should have unbolted all the mounts, electrical connections, coolant connections and anything else that would prevent the engine from coming out. We missed a few things so it took a little bit of work. Just slide it out in one piece. It makes it a little easier and less work.

Almost out...

Daaaamn this things big. I forgot to remove the shifter so the engine was getting snagged down by the trans tunnel. Make sure to remove it! You'll be glad you did!

And its out! Booooo yeeeeah! My first succesful KA removal!

Yeah i dont know what this means but atleast the engine is out.

Man the bay was dirty as hell. Thats what years of use and abuse will do to our cars.

When i get rid out it, i can help the buyer put it on to a truck, bed, etc. using a hoist at school.

Engine bay.

Man im glad i got this done today! My goal was to have the engine out by the end of class and i succeeded!

I gotta wash and degrease this!!!

Damn that is dirty.

Another engine bay shot.

I'll post pics after i clean up this mess. I wish i could paint it but that would've taken too long. Im on a time schedule and this things gotta get done!

Mug shot.

Hang out.

What you see is what you might possibly get!

I wish i coud've kept this engine, rebuilt it, and put it to good use but i barely have funds to make my CA project happen. Im just going to concentrate on the CA for now and maybe later down the road build up a KA.

There it is. Engine is out, CA is about to go in, and im that much closer to my CA powered sports car!

David Ever Thought of using the Ka Tranny Cause of the Taller 5th Gear??

looks good. engine bay is clean compared to mine :P

ya about the tranny, why not just use the ka one?

Reno wrote:David Ever Thought of using the Ka Tranny Cause of the Taller 5th Gear??

burntricer wrote:looks good. engine bay is clean compared to mine :P

ya about the tranny, why not just use the ka one?

I have thought about keeping the KA tranny and having it rebuilt. Later when i upgrade the clutch and flywheel i could put in the rebuilt trans.

I wanted to sell everything because i dont think it'll be that hard to get my hands on another used KA or i could even buy a rebuilt one from a transmission shop. Not to mention i could use the money id get from selling everything together like FMIC, suspension, or cat-back exhaust.

I've got some new pictures of the CA install. I'll try and get them posted ASAP.

updates?

what did you do with the ka?

adam-gtX wrote:updates?

Yeah i've been really busy with school and work. Im almost done with it as my time at school is ending! It HAS to run this week. I know i'll get it running. Theres only a few more electrical issues that need to get fixed and i should be able to bring her home! I have not gotten my intercooler/piping so i was wondering if i could start the engine and "drive" the car? Reason being is i need to get the car out, basically. Can it atleat idle or accelerate? This being my first turbo project still dont know.

[QUOTE=dsc4130 wrote:what did you do with the ka?

I threw it up on a few forums in the BUY/SELL threads. Locally and here which would be more national. Anyways if anyone is interested in it give me a call or email me!

Welcome!

What i have here today is a 5-speed KA24DE out of my 1992 Nissan 240SX SE with transmission, computer and wireing harness. I've also taken the liberty to include as much as possible to make this as complete as it gets. When i say complete i mean even EVAP, external coil, vacuum lines, air box, and all the accesories that the engine originally came with. I even left all the cruise components intact aswell. This engine was pulled on April 13 2007 and was running great when i was using it. It never gave me any problems and recieved the upmost attention when it came to preventative maintenance! Oil and filter changes were done at the recommended intervals. Last time i took it for emissions it also passed its last test (no more emissions for 1995 and older vechicles in Illinois). I also did compression and leakage tests atleast twice in a span of about a year and a half and the results all were still within Nissan's specs. It doesnt burn oil or coolant and is showing signs of leaks at the cam cover. Considering the age of the motor, its still in good condition. I would recommend rebuilding this engine before attempting any type of power modifications as its been used for many years and miles! This would be a great start for someone looking for a spare KA to rebuild and use as a KA-T or NA KA project.

Heres some pictures of what the im selling:

















How to get a hold of me:

David(708)[email protected] in the Chicago arealocal pick-up

$700.00 OBO

108,000 miles! KA24DE w/ trans, computer, harness and anything else that might be needed to get this to run in fantastic used condition! Doesn't have any mechanical problems! Ran like a champ before it was removed! What you see in the pictures is basically what you'll get! I can even help the seller load it onto a truck, bed, or trailer using a lift/hoist!