Cool. I tried the same and settled with 15/10 f/r. Very nice ride.

Ill try to adjust rear this weekend .Wish there was an easier way like the front ones.
Thanks for help everyone!

rear should be around 15 to 20 pending on rear pass and stuff in trunk.

My d2 are set at 30/30 even though they are bags I don't see why you guys have all the bounce problems when going to the stiffer settings.

30! Wow that's hard. What are the roads you drive like? Mine are very very bad. All uneven patches and manholes potholes and waves in the tar. There isn't 1 foot of smooth pavement in the city of Toronto! I tried 36 and the car was so harsh my head would rattle. Don't forget I'm still on stock 18's so maybe that's where the bounce is coming from?

The problems are the streets, they need to start fixing them

06M4.5 wrote:The problems are the streets, they need to start fixing them

Ha Toronto is broke! We just found out that our province is cutting $150 mill in funding next year so we're going be driving on gravel soon lol. I may have to jack my car up and get some MT tires to survive.

The roads in Maryland and northern va are bad, not smooth at all. I feel like where my settings are now are similar to oem sport shocks with eibach springs. I initially put the front at 22 rears at 20 but to me it seemed like too much body roll on turns. Now with what I have it feels more planted to the ground. I'm in sova now so I might make it softer since the roads are nicer and have a smoother/floating ride.

mexillis wrote:I'm in sova now so I might make it softer since the roads are nicer and have a smoother/floating ride.

- be sure to use caution in the Norfolk & Portsmouth areas. They have the roughest roads in the area. IMO..


- MSVARA, if you had to do it again, would you still go with coil's, instead of springs?

White-Rush wrote:

mexillis wrote:I'm in sova now so I might make it softer since the roads are nicer and have a smoother/floating ride.

- be sure to use caution in the Norfolk & Portsmouth areas. They have the roughest roads in the area. IMO..


- MSVARA, if you had to do it again, would you still go with coil's, instead of springs?

Haven't decided quite yet. I wish d2 made the piggy back shock system for our cars. I think the rally or drift versions might have more adjustability.

Here is my alignment 2 weeks after install.
I might need camber arms $180 plus $150 install bolts were frozen it was best they could do.

I spent some time going over the d2s and readjusted the preload. i noticed that the springs were so loose i could turn them And move it up and down. I suspect over the last month the springs settled or perhaps the isolator is compressed. ive also re-adjusted the settings to 25/25 and its pretty decent. I might just be alright with the coilovers after all. Let me know how those chamber arms work out for ya.

damn you take out the coilover every time you adjust rear? Can i take em out without changing the height so i dont have to do alignment again? or would i have to do it anyway? its 140$ every time

When adjusting the preload or height you should redo alignment but if you're taking out the rears to adjust the damper there's no need. Since my alignment I have played with height, preload and damper settings. In hindsight I would have rather completed all of these things first and waited a bit longer for the suspension to settle before performing an alignment.

Key is to install everything correctly the 1st time on any suspension, adjust as needed before getting alignment. Depending how low you go you don't need to get a re- alignment when adjusting .5 to 1" up or down.

In most cases you'll need front camber arms which should be done at the same time as installing new suspension. Problem is pricing.

Your lucky you didn't go with Megans or BC, these are much harder to install & adjust, most have problems with noise too.

I don't know about the X's but D2's are great on the M45 and even better on the M35, your biggest problem is the swaybar & extra weight on the M45 when tring to go very low.

Your 2nd biggest problems are your roads, any lowered suspension will have problems when driving on bad roads. So don't expect to have that oem (buick feeling) feel when your driving over potholes, filled potholes or even those grooves that the trucks make on the highway.

And please don't fool yourself and think that your oem suspension is still good after 65k miles, your just driving on springs. Going from dead struts to any new coilover system will be night & day. So far all the M's that I have lowered needed the oem struts replace before 60k miles. I have seen M45 sport struts go bad at 30k miles. It's funny when I hear others state that at 90k miles they still don't need new struts, it rides perfect.

06M4.5 wrote:...And please don't fool yourself and think that your oem suspension is still good after 65k miles, your just driving on springs. Going from dead struts to any new coilover system will be night & day. So far all the M's that I have lowered needed the oem struts replace before 60k miles. I have seen M45 sport struts go bad at 30k miles. It's funny when I hear others state that at 90k miles they still don't need new struts, it rides perfect.

Agree, however just to clarify my shocks had 160k kms. I know they weren't as good as new and the mounts were noisy. I know for a fact that better coilovers exist just not for the M's. When I say better I mean coilovers that have the ability to adjust more than just linear compression/rebound. An example would be TEIN Super Racing with 16 way adjustable compression and rebound independently adjustable. Yes they are over $2K but our cars are worth it.

My rear OEM shocks were dead, fronts are still good. If i get tired of coilovers ill just buy KYB for the rear and install old front ones. But it looks and handles so much better lowered, i cant see myself going back to stock.

finikM35 wrote:Here is my alignment 2 weeks after install.
I might need camber arms $180 plus $150 install bolts were frozen it was best they could do.

Hey, how much lower from stock did you go that you might need camber arms ? I m very interested in getting the most info on the D2s as I will be buying them hopefully soon. Also what size wheels are you on ? I would like a nice drop without the need of camber kit.

Nevermind on the wheel size I just looked closely at the pic.

I have a moderate drop, still have like 2 finger gaps all around. My bolts were frozen thats why camber arms needed he couldnt adjust without breaking something... i park outside on the street. If you park in garage maybe your bolts are in better shape.
Yeah 18 stock wheels for now dumped too much money into the car recently was gona put 19 M45 sport wheels even found a set for 450$!!! But decided to wait and get something with more aggressive offset later on like 19x9.5 +22.

Oh ok, now I understand. I will mostly likely aim for a drop slightly lower than tein h techs would give, I park outside aswell so hopefully a shop wont have problems aligning my car. btw cant you just get new bolts ?!

Ok so I pulled the trigger on the D2s today should be getting them in few days. Also anybody in the Tristate needs a set let me know I can get a hook up for a price not found anywhere else!!!

Lol, how unknown a price are we talking?!

Partysan7 wrote:Ok so I pulled the trigger on the D2s today should be getting them in few days. Also anybody in the Tristate needs a set let me know I can get a hook up for a price not found anywhere else!!!

Partysan, I'm going back to Jersey to visit my hometown. PM me pricing and let me know if you can get Eibach Pro kits for M45 at a good price. I might end up picking it up when I go at the end of this month.

Just got them today, looks good and made of high quality.everything is included even bracket for brake lines..(someone said it wasnt included) anyways I will be most definetly installing them next Saturday by a shop. What are the settings (dampning) that you fellow M35ers are happy with ? I live in central nj so the roads are very slightly better than NYC. Any suggestions and tips are greatly appreciated.

25/20 or 20/20 seems to be popular anything less than 20 is just too bouncy 25 is nice and firm you gona love improved handling!

Partysan7 wrote:Just got them today, looks good and made of high quality.everything is included even bracket for brake lines..(someone said it wasnt included) anyways I will be most definetly installing them next Saturday by a shop. What are the settings (dampning) that you fellow M35ers are happy with ? I live in central nj so the roads are very slightly better than NYC. Any suggestions and tips are greatly appreciated.

you need to get the nut that holds the bottom of rear strut, 2 of them. The oem nut is welded to the oem strut. It doesn't come in the D2 kit.

dealer sells them for about $5 each and most of the time they don't have them instock.

Thanks Freddie and Finik.
I got the nuts yesterday at the dealer they were $2 each I took 6 of them .The dealer didnt rip me off on that I guess
Finik--> what settings are on your rear ? The front I can adjust to my liking.
Btw will be working with the shop to see if something can be done to adjust dampning on rear ( maybe drilling or cutting from trunk) to get access.

25/20 f/r im gona try 20/20 today.

I would go with 20 in the rear

Partysan7 wrote:Thanks Freddie and Finik.
I got the nuts yesterday at the dealer they were $2 each I took 6 of them .The dealer didnt rip me off on that I guess
Finik--> what settings are on your rear ? The front I can adjust to my liking.
Btw will be working with the shop to see if something can be done to adjust dampning on rear ( maybe drilling or cutting from trunk) to get access.

it would be best to extend the tool so that it sits on top of the rear deck. The hole should should be a little bigger than the size of the tool