yoko911 wrote:How did you get this data? what software/Hardware are you using? i would like to monitor my own Rogue.

dave08902 wrote: I then took car out for a drive to warm it up and it took 8 miles before I got the temp count up to 161.

This screenshot is from Autoenginuity, it is a PC based scanner. It is not very expensive and you can only buy the Nissan enhanced data. To be honest, I gave it to a friend of mine since I brought the Launch and Autel scanners.

If price is a factor, the Autoenginuity is a very good scanner and has about 90% of the Nissan Consult scanner except J2534 programming. I compared the data from the Autoenginuity and the Nissan Consult 3 with my Rogue and has 100 % coverage on the Rogues. I don't know about other Nissan's, that is why I said 90% before.

joesera wrote:No tranny cooler on my '08. Just an AC condenser in front of the radiator.

The Trans cooler is directly mounted on top of the transmission and is a round container. The CVT fluid travels into the cooler directly through ports and then back into transmission. The coolant travels to and from the radiator to the cooler via hoses. There is no cooler lines that contain CVT fluid and it is all internal to the transmission. The only method is to do a drain and refill several times.

dave08902 wrote:

joesera wrote:No tranny cooler on my '08. Just an AC condenser in front of the radiator.

The Trans cooler is directly mounted on top of the transmission and is a round container. The CVT fluid travels into the cooler directly through ports and then back into transmission. The coolant travels to and from the radiator to the cooler via hoses. There is no cooler lines that contain CVT fluid and it is all internal to the transmission. The only method is to do a drain and refill several times.[/quote]

This is the trans cooler. Image from ImStricken via this post. transmission-oil-cooler-for-a-rogue-s-s ... 62969.html



If you turn the car off and disconnect one of those hoses in the picture you will get trans fluid.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I just did it and got drops of transmission fluid unless I'm mistaken.

It should be just like this video except we are not cleaning the cooler.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZ6VSfvNGW8&hd=1
skip to 2:37

dave08902 wrote: The Trans cooler is directly mounted on top of the transmission and is a round container. The CVT fluid travels into the cooler directly through ports and then back into transmission. The coolant travels to and from the radiator to the cooler via hoses. There is no cooler lines that contain CVT fluid and it is all internal to the transmission. The only method is to do a drain and refill several times.

dave08902, your description matches what I see, and could also explain why the dealer offer drain & refill only, and not flush for this vehicle.

darylzero wrote:This is the trans cooler. Image from ImStricken via this post. transmission-oil-cooler-for-a-rogue-s-s ... 62969.html

If you turn the car off and disconnect one of those hoses in the picture you will get trans fluid.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I just did it and got drops of transmission fluid unless I'm mistaken.

It should be just like this video except we are not cleaning the cooler.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZ6VSfvNGW8&hd=1
skip to 2:37

darylzero, mine does not have a trans cooler in front of the radiator, just an A/C condenser, which is bigger than the tranny cooler ImStricken showed and has an A/C lines connecting to the A/C pump.

Thanks for your help fellows.

darylzero wrote:

di_gent wrote:I am going to get the AmsOil Synthetic CVT fluids from a local supplier it's going to be only $12.65/Quart (tax included). i checked their website and they have tested it and it performs just as good as the Nissan NS-2 CVT Fluid. here is the link http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/t ... e=CVTQT-EA

i think some of the experts will discourage against it but i hope it will all go well . Any major concerns?

Did you ever do this? Just wondering how it went with AMSoil CVT fluid?

I know it's been a while from when i originally wanted to do this but i finally got it done and used the AmsOil a few weeks ago. I put over 3,000 km on it after doing it. I just came back from a trip to The Canadian Rockies, more specifically Banff and up to the Colombia Ice field. I did notice that the transmission whines a lot when going through the mountains while on cruise control at 120 km/hr. does any one else notice this whining?

The alarming thing that i found out was that i took out 6L ( yes, 6 liters i still have the bottles!!) and 200 ml (6.6 quarts)of transmission fluid!! I am not sure how that was possible and I didn't let it completely drain because i got a bit worried when i saw the oil pan fill up all the way to the rim. there was a thin line flowing when i plugged it back. I thought i might not have enough oil . I did not jack the car it was on a level concrete floor. I have owned this car since 2012 and had no issues with the transmission and put over 60,000 km on it. The transmission oil was pitch black. Maybe i will upload some photos. I added about the same as the rest of the guys 4 quarts and 23 ounces. can someone tell me how is it possible that i took that much oil out??

^ If you moved the gears i.e. D-R-N while it was draining would do it.

What level is it at now when the car is warmed up?

its on the on the high end but below the hatched area on the dip stick. and i did not change gears while it was draining.

I know it's been a while from when i originally wanted to do this but i finally got it done and used the AmsOil a few weeks ago. I put over 3,000 km on it after doing it. I just came back from a trip to The Canadian Rockies, more specifically Banff and up to the Colombia Ice field. I did notice that the transmission whines a lot when going through the mountains while on cruise control at 120 km/hr. does any one else notice this whining?

The alarming thing that i found out was that i took out 6L ( yes, 6 liters i still have the bottles!!) and 200 ml (6.6 quarts)of transmission fluid!! I am not sure how that was possible and I didn't let it completely drain because i got a bit worried when i saw the oil pan fill up all the way to the rim. there was a thin line flowing when i plugged it back. I thought i might not have enough oil . I did not jack the car it was on a level concrete floor. I have owned this car since 2012 and had no issues with the transmission and put over 60,000 km on it. The transmission oil was pitch black. Maybe i will upload some photos. I added about the same as the rest of the guys 4 quarts and 23 ounces. can someone tell me how is it possible that i took that much oil out??

I get this whining as well, especially on a hot day going through the mountains/hills. Sounds like a supercharger whine of sorts. This happens on my '09 SL AWD Rogue

Here are some photos of the oil i took out, pretty dark. it looks like my dipstick is slight different than Dave's. Yes, the graduated cylinder reads just over 150 ml but i spilled a bit so that's why i said i took out 6L and 200 ml.

is this the same on the new current generation or 2015 nissan rogue? same drain plug, same location/similar, and same hidden dipstick? i didn't see a dipstick that easily came out like the oil one, so it's accessible by screwdriver, i guess after seeing this, i'll look for it. anyways, it's a 19mm drain plug? wow, that's huge. but does this apply to the 2015 as well and how often do you recommend a drain and fill and do you do the 1st more sooner to get rid of wear metaisl from the break in period or no, just at 30k? Thanks. do you drain and fill at 30k or flush it at 30k? the dealer said flush at 30k but will drain and fills every 30k be enough? does this cvt have a filter that's accessible? the 09 taurus i have turns out not to have a filter that is easily accessible, but it's rather inside the transmission, so does the new xtronic cvt or even the cvt on the previous generation have a trans filter or no, is it way inside the trans, or does it not even have one way inside the trans?

Thanks. I know that drain plug, I have a 2015, but it's similar, but in your picture, you see the silver thing next to the trans pan? more toward the center, or towards the passenger side, that silver thing? That also has a drain plug, right or is that the cvt trans, or is that the differential for awd? Because I opened that up as well as the black drain plug and the fluid that came out was the same and was green, so if I want more fluid to come out, do I open up both drain plugs, or not the silver one? Also, can you "drop the pan" or is it worthwhile to do so? DOesn't seem that hard adn you could drop the pan, but you'd replace the gasket, or is it rtv? and is there a trans filter or cvt filter to CHANGE that's accessible after dropping / removing the pan, or no? If not, there's no need to drop the pan, then and just doing drain and fill,s but if you want the car to last a while, you should change the filter, is there a filter, or is it deep inside the trans and not accessible after a pan drop, therefore making a pan drop a waste of time, emergney, and money for the new gasket?
apparently, autozone has a universal tranny cooler, is that true? Can you just get an auto parts store one? I heard it was outside and easy to install, not in the trans (that'd be hard), and you can use aftermarket ones, or no, use the nissan one? thanks.

engineer20 wrote:is this the same on the new current generation or 2015 nissan rogue? same drain plug, same location/similar, and same hidden dipstick? i didn't see a dipstick that easily came out like the oil one, so it's accessible by screwdriver, i guess after seeing this, i'll look for it. anyways, it's a 19mm drain plug? wow, that's huge. but does this apply to the 2015 as well and how often do you recommend a drain and fill and do you do the 1st more sooner to get rid of wear metaisl from the break in period or no, just at 30k? Thanks. do you drain and fill at 30k or flush it at 30k? the dealer said flush at 30k but will drain and fills every 30k be enough? does this cvt have a filter that's accessible? the 09 taurus i have turns out not to have a filter that is easily accessible, but it's rather inside the transmission, so does the new xtronic cvt or even the cvt on the previous generation have a trans filter or no, is it way inside the trans, or does it not even have one way inside the trans?

I looked at the 2014 FSM and the procedure is different. You also need to drain the torque converter and the servicing is different.

Stealership quote me $35 a quart of CVT. Is it really that expensive?

I though Nissan is a modest brand for Modest consumer. They think they are Infinti where they can charge an extra premium for parts.

Chowcman wrote:Stealership quote me $35 a quart of CVT. Is it really that expensive?

I though Nissan is a modest brand for Modest consumer. They think they are Infinti where they can charge an extra premium for parts.

No. http://www.amazon.com/Nissan-999MP-NS30 ... B00AKYOZDY

Google the part # 999MP-NS300P to find it at other places.

I have a 2014 Rogue, Do I follow the same steps in this DYI to change myTranny Fluid? Really surprised there hasn't been a separate write up for the Second Gen Rogues in regards to this topic. I'm currently approaching 25K Miles.

Hi, i owned a 2009 nissan rogue FWD. planning DIY cvt oil change this coming weekend. Do i need to pour all the 5 quarts of oil? Thanks

@dave08902, Is their anyway you can re-upload the images?

Actually, NVM... It seems Photobucket was having a problem with their servers and that's why the images weren't loading but now it's fixed!

Thanks for this tutorial! I felt like a complete moron looking under our '11 Rogue S yesterday because I couldn't find the CVT or oil drain pans for the life of me. All I saw were protective panels. I was about to succumb by having the dealer do this for us rather than saving $100+ by doing it myself. It just dawned on me though -- these pictures are from under the front end of the car! We had been receiving free oil changes through a pre-paid service contract that just ran out, so I had no clue!

My fluid change was all be effortless. The whole thing couldn't have been easier. Thanks for this tutorial!

I used Nissan fluid to maintain the warranty. The dealer wanted $250, so I still had considerable savings.

Thanks For Great Pics changed mine today! Great measurements i put the 4 quarts and 10 ounces! Drain took longest as i wanted all of the old as much out and in with the new! The color was brownish and i put the new Ns-2 CVT fluid.....Note does not look anywhere like new fluid . Oh forgot to say i had a 7 quart pan and almost filled to top. Yikes almost 2 quarts overfilled thank god i changed. Vehicle has 65000 miles on it.
Hopefully fixes the "Limp Mode" as i also changed the Radiator Coolant as well about 2 weeks ago hopefully all this DIY did the trick if not still saved huge on taking to Dealers.

thank you for the info

I recently changed my fluid- VERY Easy to do. I sent a sample to Blackstone labs and found a higher than normal count for aluminum,iron,chromium nickel and manganese. Viscosity was one point from being to low. Suggest EVERYONE change fluids at least every 60K. The failures come from the steel link belt in the tranny and this needs the best protection you can do..

Hi, I did check my tranny fluid, on a cold tranny, and not idle. I've always been on the middle mark. Am I too low on oil? Thank's

Simple, drive it for 20 minutes in 70-80 degree weather.

Then check.

Thank's

Do I check it with the motor idle or not?

Idle.

Try to get it in the middle of the cross hatch.

Optimum point.

Great write-up, however for my 2013 Rogue SV, I did not have to use an extension to access the fill bolt. In fact, I could not remove the bolt with the extension. I accessed it with a breaker bar from below the bolt, though it took some angling to get there.

Question: Upon removing the CVT fluid drain bolt, I discovered the washer was missing. I bought this car at 35,000 miles (it has 62,000 now) and assumed the fluid was never changed but given the missing washer, it was likely changed around 30,000. I replaced the bolt without a washer and filled with new fluid. No leaks. Should I leave it alone since it is not leaking (and has not leaked for 30,000 miles without a washer), or remove the bolt to add the washer (either by plugging the hole temporarily with my finger or letting all the fluid drain out and putting it back)?

Honestly, I never used washers for decades and never had a problem with any leaks.

I did buy a dozen washers for the heck of it lately but recently could not remove it off my drainplug so I just left it there. Still no leaks.

And if it is still stuck, I have no problem reusing it over and over. And if I never had a washer on it. I would go without either way.

Personally, I never really needed drainplug washers.

Speaking for myself only.

Crush washers serve to seal the fine imperfections on the surface to prevent water from coming in and fluids from seeping out. It also prevents over torqueing and stripping the threads by deforming first.

@Casper If you are careful with how you tighten the bolts it should be fine. I just think if it originally had one it should have one, but that's just me.

Dealer supplied washers can get pretty expensive though. I haven't changed fluids on my Rogue yet, but when I used to change fluids on my CRV, I just bought a pack of vinyl or copper crush washers from the nearby Canadian Tire and they would last me several changes. Just checked Amazon and they offer an assortment of sizes and material as well.