localTradey wrote: ↑

Fri May 14, 2021 6:58 pm

So it maybe it is "lifetime" fluid for this model?

There is no such thing as "lifetime fluid" for any model under any circumstances. Heat is not the only factor that breaks down CVT fluid, shear force and oxidation also destroy it. For the sake of your cars, please get over it.

Car companies simply meant lifetime as 100,000 miles and their cars were meant to break down as they encouraged so called "lifetime fluids". This is because they want us to buy new vehicles and not have their cars last over a decade.

Being pro- consumer, of course it's not really lifetime and fluids should be changed.

As said before...,,,,

When I first joined this forum in 2009, it WAS known as lifetime by the manufacturer. But ever since the cvt was imploding early on, that sure changed really fast.

Technically it's true, but it was predetermined to be a pile of junk after a certain time with the lifelong fluids.

But since the cvt was doing it quicker, heck NOW it's NO LONGER lifetime fluid so we can make it last normally to at least 100k.

Still a crapshoot.

After my second drain and fill my cvt temp has come down about 4 degrees on the same 90 mile trip I made before. 2 weeks ago at an ambient temp of 60, my scanguage was reading 163. Yesterday the outside temp was 70 and the gauge was reading 159. I used eneos n3 which is Nissan specific and probably the same stuff the dealers are charging an arm and kidney for. I just placed an order for 16 quarts which should give me 4 services for under $150. I’ll be changing this every 15-20k and see how long I can keep this rogue on the road.

casperfun wrote: ↑

Fri May 14, 2021 7:41 pm

Simply, nissan does not manufacture their conventional ns-2, ns-3 fluids, I'm going with the latest aftermarket synthetics after I finish my last bottles of ns-2 fluids.

Their was a pds early on that sopus (shell) manufactured cvt fluid for Nissan. Speculation was that the fluid had a lot to do with the cvt failures. Since idemitsu and eneos supposedly have and are the new supplier. Castrols fine but the red color will make you have to lawyer up if your under warranty. Valvolines clear and when mixed with Nissan fluid would be hard to tell apart. I’ve been using valvoline in my 09 and the car seems to run better after enough drain and fills to have basically replaced about 90% of it.

I probably got the crappy version of NS-2 fluid produced by Sopus before idemitsu provided the latest formulation.

Anyways, my rogue drives great and my last stash, I bought 12 quarts for $80 on eBay back in the day. Still have enough for 1 more drain & fill.

Furthermore, I believe clean fluid is the best cvt fluid. Also My longest interval was 13,600 miles, excluding the 4 drain & fills in that 2 month period initially. It’s so easy to change that I get the itch to do it frequently.

So yah, any aftermarket should suffice.

Even on Amazon, some people blame the aftermarket fluids in destroying their transmissions. Personally, I feel any fluid should be good to go as long as you don’t overfill.

casperfun wrote: ↑

Sat May 15, 2021 6:46 am

Even on Amazon, some people blame the aftermarket fluids in destroying their transmissions. Personally, I feel any fluid should be good to go as long as you don’t overfill.

True that. The vast majority of supposed "fluid-induced failure" is actually "foam-induced failure" induced by shade tree ignorance.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat May 15, 2021 7:07 am

casperfun wrote: ↑

Sat May 15, 2021 6:46 am

Even on Amazon, some people blame the aftermarket fluids in destroying their transmissions. Personally, I feel any fluid should be good to go as long as you don’t overfill.

True that. The vast majority of supposed "fluid-induced failure" is actually "foam-induced failure" induced by shade tree ignorance.

Agreed. My 09 made it 95k being overfilled from the factory before it began howling like a banshee. I knew very little at the time about cvts, but knew when I checked the dipstick it was way overfilled. I brought it to the dealers attention but the reasponse was “don’t worry about it, it’s under extended warranty”. I gotta say I really don’t like the new ones not having a dipstick and have a hard time trusting the leveling method of changing fluid. I’d much rather see the fluid in a dipstick personally.

D1dad wrote: ↑

Sat May 15, 2021 7:51 am

I gotta say I really don’t like the new ones not having a dipstick and have a hard time trusting the leveling method of changing fluid. I’d much rather see the fluid in a dipstick personally.

It would make it easier on us techs, too, but I can understand why Nissan wants to make it scary and inconvenient. When it comes to warranty, proving abuse or ignorance on the part of a DIYer or outside shop is very difficult.

The leveling method works great, the only thing you must pay attention to is actually being level. The high plug is at the extreme inboard end of the trans cavity, so being off-level side to side will be much more critical than front to back. Since most of y'all don't have access to a shop lift, I highly recommend getting a bubble level from Harbor Freight or Home Depot to make sure your terrain is flat. Up to 1 degree won't affect much, but past that adjust your jacks. If you put the jacks under the side seams of the body you be can sure the car's angle will match the terrain at all 4 corners, so all you really need is to assure the ground is level or adjust your jacks accordingly.

PS - I didn't forget about checking for a high plug on the '21 Rogues, we just haven't had one up on a lift in the past 4 days. The trannies are completely obscured by the splash shield when on the ground, and they're RE0F14's which aren't just an update of the RE0F10's used on the gen2. So I won't be comfortable saying much until I can take a look.

I get it as level as my torpedo level can get me. My drive has a very slight slope and when I back it in and pull up on my ramps to a level position, it gives me just enough room to snake my way under and drain and pull the leveling bolt. Seemed to work pretty well. 3.5 qts came out and 4 went back in and half quart drained and then dribbled out. That was with the trans showing about 115 degrees. I checked several spots under the car and even the roof rack and they were all showing in between the lines. Granted a 4ft level may have been more accurate but there wasn’t 4ft of straight body to get an accurate read.

I don't use a 4 foot masonry level either, that's strictly overkill. Like I said, anything within about 1 degree is fine, and side-to-side is more critical than front-to-back. As long as you attend to those, it'll be fine.

Finally got a '21 in for service today, it does have a leveling plug in the same old spot.

My daughter got her car at 110,000 miles last summer.
I did some overhauling up front just to get it in shape (alt, brakes, water pump, heat shield over exhaust, etc...)

Now I am going over general things like dust cover, etc...

When she got the car, the CVT fluid was nice blue, so I figure she has at least a year.
Now I'd like to change the fluid ( been 15,000 miles and we have no idea when it was last changed).

The question is... are Nissan transmission picky about CVT fluid?
It's either go to Nissan and get CVT NS-2 fluid for like $25 per quart... OR go to Autozone and get Valvoline CVT-1 which shows "NS-2,NS-3" on the back at $11 per quart.

Any suggestions? what about differential? do they need to be taken care of too?

Rockhoundrob wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 07, 2021 9:23 am

My daughter got her car at 110,000 miles last summer.
I did some overhauling up front just to get it in shape (alt, brakes, water pump, heat shield over exhaust, etc...)

Now I am going over general things like dust cover, etc...

When she got the car, the CVT fluid was nice blue, so I figure she has at least a year.
Now I'd like to change the fluid ( been 15,000 miles and we have no idea when it was last changed).

The question is... are Nissan transmission picky about CVT fluid?
It's either go to Nissan and get CVT NS-2 fluid for like $25 per quart... OR go to Autozone and get Valvoline CVT-1 which shows "NS-2,NS-3" on the back at $11 per quart.

Any suggestions? what about differential? do they need to be taken care of too?

Merged with existing thread. Please see this as well: ......Since we’re on the topic of Cvt fluid

Rockhoundrob wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 07, 2021 9:23 am

The question is... are Nissan transmission picky about CVT fluid?
It's either go to Nissan and get CVT NS-2 fluid for like $25 per quart... OR go to Autozone and get Valvoline CVT-1 which shows "NS-2,NS-3" on the back at $11 per quart.

Any suggestions? what about differential? do they need to be taken care of too?

NS2/NS3 used to have a film-strength advantage over the aftermarket fluids, but the aftermarket has come a loooong way in the last few years. The reputable full-synthetics have become pretty much problem-free and as good or better than the OE fluid.

If it's FWD then the diff and tranny are integrated, change one and you change the other. Only the rear diff on AWD is a separate unit.

Btw, the one thing you absolutely, positively never do is overfill. Slight underfilling is fine. It's exactly the opposite of a normal A/T. Overfilling a CVT makes the fluid foam and is very destructive very quickly. There are lots of threads in here about doing it right.

OK, so Valvoline synthetic NS-2, NS-3 is fine?

And thanks for the warning about over filling. I guess I make it 1 quart short, then drive around to warm it up, and fill to 3/4 way to the top hashmark.

Rockhoundrob wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 07, 2021 5:09 pm

OK, so Valvoline synthetic NS-2, NS-3 is fine?

And thanks for the warning about over filling. I guess I make it 1 quart short, then drive around to warm it up, and fill to 3/4 way to the top hashmark.

You're quite welcome. Yep, exactly. Or some folks measure what they take out and then replace exactly that amount. Either method is fine unless the tranny leaks, then you have to go by the stick.

Wow, didn’t realize this is a decades old thread. Back then we were wary about using deterioration parameter readings of the cvt fluid AND reluctant on aftermarket versions. I think back then I didn’t think much about it and eventually changed it YEARS later at 85k.

+1 on the overfilling.

The first time 5 qts was on the money and I got it right in the middle of the hash marks.

Coincidentally, my 5th drain and fill, after driving a few weeks without ever checking my levels because of complacency, I checked one day and the dip stick was bone dry. I felt stupid and filled with 1/4 of a qt.
Drives great not that it didn’t before this. Plus I didn’t feel too bad since it was under filled.

Rockhoundrob wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 07, 2021 5:09 pm

OK, so Valvoline synthetic NS-2, NS-3 is fine?

And thanks for the warning about over filling. I guess I make it 1 quart short, then drive around to warm it up, and fill to 3/4 way to the top hashmark.

I use Valvoline in my '09 that was replaced under extended warranty. I just started using it so it’s too early to tell the longevity. Rumor has it that Nissan's fluid is supplied by ENEOS and can be purchased at NAPA for 50% less than OEM fluid. I just did a drain and fill on the wife's '18 Rogue with ENEOS and it works as well as before. I’m more worried about clean fluid and not overfilled than I am if it’s Nissan's OEM overpriced unicorn tears. I used red Castrol in my wife’s '07 Murano and I just saw it in town yesterday with over 300k on it by now I’m sure.

Looks like this thread had been back from the dead more times then any other. It's important info so back to life Again

So to be clear: drain pan is around 5qts.
What about the trans filter? Are people not replacing that? Shouldnt that filter be replaced? It only adds like 30 bucks cost.
Have to drop the pan to get that and then drain 1 or 2 more qts?
Refill all that is lost.
Then disconnect bottom from trans cooler and run until new fluid comes out... Another 1 to 2qts?
Measure and replace thru dip stick hole.
Total 7 to 9 qts for a change?

I have seen comments that people run the car with the plug out to get another 2 qts.... I don't like that idea seems like running without oil to me.

Must use ns2 for first gen or is ns3 the new standard? Nissan parts site said get ns2.
9 qts of ns2 is 170 bucks delivered ... Best I can find so far.

I don't have 4 jackstands... If everything is measured will I be fine?

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 07, 2021 3:31 pm

If it's FWD then the diff and tranny are integrated, change one and you change the other. Only the rear diff on AWD is a separate unit.

Does the rear also need to be drained at 120k miles? The schedule doesn't specify.
Other than an ac compressor, OCS, and the brake light switch you helped me figure out (Thanks again) this car has been trouble free from the 87k to 122k we've owned it. Looking to do the maintenance and keep it that way.

Technically it's called a strainer when you drop the pan, the transmission filter looks like a cute little oil filter that is found in the beehive. I only did the strainer because personally it would be a pain in the butt to do the transmission filter. Speaking for myself only. People usually change it during the installation of a tranmission cooler.

casperfun wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 02, 2022 12:21 am

Technically it's called a strainer when you drop the pan, the transmission filter looks like a cute little oil filter that is found in the beehive. I only did the strainer because personally it would be a pain in the butt to do the transmission filter. Speaking for myself only. People usually change it during the installation of a tranmission cooler.

Hm..the vids I saw only did that strainer and said it was a filter. Off to find more data on the filter!

EDIT:
Omg....
https://youtu.be/s3o2NNwQy2A

Ya that's a.... That's a job...
My honda fit was bad enough this one looks even more buried

My 2011 has a trans cooler in front of the main radiator on the driver's side already. Lucky?

Dosmastr wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 02, 2022 5:07 am

My 2011 has a trans cooler in front of the main radiator on the driver's side already. Lucky?

The tranny either had heat issues or was replaced, or the car had a factory trailer package. There was a bulletin about the gen1's going into "self-protection" from hot fluid, and the fix was to retrofit the OE trailer package cooler. It's a very nice setup, but very pricey compared to aftermarket coolers.

Don't have a hitch but do have 4wd

Dosmastr wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 01, 2022 11:55 pm

Drain pan is around 5qts.
Drop the pan drain 1 or 2 more qts?
Refill all that is lost.
Then disconnect bottom from trans cooler and run until new fluid comes out... Another 1 to 2qts?
Does Total 7 to 9 qts for a change using this process sound right?

Must use ns2 for first gen or is ns3 also acceptable?
Nissan parts site said get ns2 so Im nervous...
9 qts of ns2 is 170 bucks delivered.

Does this look correct?

No. D&F is usually right around 4 quarts, 4.5 to 5 with a pan drop and/or cooler flush, 7 or so with a Valve Body drop. The only way they ever take more is dry from the factory or a rebuild. You might get 7 out by running it with the cooler disconnected, but that isn't healthy for the front pump and I don't recommend it.

NS3 is downward compatible with NS2, NS2 is not upward compatible with NS3. So a tranny spec'd for NS2 can run either one, a tranny spec'd for NS3 can only run NS3. Most aftermarket fluids which are compatible with NS3 will also claim compatibility with NS2, for the same reason. Check what the fluid manufacturer specifies.

I used this for my daughter's car as I planned a drain and fill and then a "screen" change and fill. Label says it meets/exceeds NS3. It is red if it matters. I have done the screen change and the trans sounds great. I'll know more when it gets cold again to see if the mild chatter when cold is gone. It would go away when it was warm. Not sure what was causing it. CVTz50 showed no errors. This was at 127K miles, it's at 129K now.

https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam ... s-1-gallon

Can the strainer just be Cleaned?
Just don't want to get something with wrong spec in there