Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Post by **NUT-CSE** » Mon Jan 25, 2010 12:57 pm

Great. How do i contact you to discuss it further?

Post by **ISL33P** » Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:03 pm

just call me on 0403 279 000 and if I don't answer, just leave a voicemail and i will return your call

Post by **ISL33P** » Sat Aug 21, 2010 4:16 am

I finally have some more pics of the complete custom inlet and plenum and also some of a 4 port manifold for a ca18. It's acgtually going on a 8 port head but the head will be cnc'd to suit with a machined head with a similar port design as rb26's....methanol powered drift car hmmmmm

I will get them up over the next few days.

Cheers,
Ariel

Post by **float_6969** » Sun Aug 22, 2010 8:28 pm

Nice! When I get to that stage, I'm planning on your 8 runner manifold with the 8 injector setup, as my standalone can handle staged injection.

Post by **ISL33P** » Mon Aug 23, 2010 5:41 am

well do I have some pics for you

Post by **ISL33P** » Tue Oct 19, 2010 1:21 am

How rude of my to not follow through

Here are pics of the 4 and 8 port plenums

4 port is for a methanol fuelled drift car and 8 port is for a ca18 powered datsun 1600 (aka datsun 510)

excuse the r33 GTR and gokart in the background

Post by **float_6969** » Fri Oct 22, 2010 6:03 am

So I had a crazy idea the other day I wanted to bring up to you. How about that 8 port manifold, only in a ITB style setup. I say "style" because I was thinking about re-utilizing the stock butterfly valve setup.

Basically, ditch the single TB. Add valves on the ports that were originally used on the butterfly valves. Then add valves on the remaining ports that are attached to the throttle cable (via linkage ofcourse). My thinking is that this concept, paired with your tried-and-true plenum should make for a VERY torquey, VERY responsive, VERY quick spooling motor. IDK how hard putting a valve inside a pipe is though, LOL! Prob A LOT of work. But if you get bored...

Post by **ISL33P** » Fri Oct 22, 2010 1:23 pm

i totally understand what you mean but it would be easier to modify the standard sandwich plate with the butterfies to convert it from 4 butterflies to 8.

as for the performance, you are only causing a greater restriction which would defeat the purpose of trying to get a performance gain. just think how much area the shaft and butterfly take up compared to each individual one of the 8 ports and you casn start to get an idea what i mean.

from the results i have seen, a properly designed plenum with a large single throttle body can perform almost as well...problem is finding someone who wants to psend the time and money getting it to that point....

Post by **r34 gtr** » Thu Oct 28, 2010 9:26 am

So with that 8 port manifold, does one still retain the lower stock manifold, or does your unit bolt directly to the cylinder head? It seems kind of pointless if it uses the lower manifold, because it would be going from an 8-port, down to 4, then splitting back to 8. Help me out here, I seem to be a little confused. Thanks!

Post by **ISL33P** » Sat Oct 30, 2010 1:59 pm

those two plenums there bolt directly to the head

Post by **r34 gtr** » Mon Nov 01, 2010 1:37 pm

And pray tell, how much would that 8 port manifold, exactly as pictured, including baller-status throttle body, cost me?

You can PM me if you do not want to disclose pricing on here.

Thanks!

Post by **float_6969** » Thu Dec 23, 2010 10:17 pm

I just had a thought the other day. I've been thinking aobut your 8 port manifold, but I wanted to ask, which of those two manifolds had better flow? I ask because I have an 8 port and a 4 port head I can use (although the 4 port head needs rebuilt). If the 4 port manifold has better flow than the 8 port or vice versus, then I'll sell the head I don't need to fund the intake manifold.

Post by **ISL33P** » Fri Dec 24, 2010 4:00 pm

the "4 port" manifold is actually made for an 8 port head with the two ports of each cylinder being machined to make one ending up with a head that will flow the same as the 4 port.

As for the manifold itselfd, the 4 port flow a lot more.

Post by **float_6969** » Mon Dec 27, 2010 7:35 am

Ahh. So let me ask you this then, how does the flow on the 8 port manifold compare to the flow on the "original" CA18 manifold that just bolts to the stock lower manifold? Any info on how the difference between the two manifolds effects low end tq? I would assume that the true 8 port manifold would have a better bottom end, but intake manifolds are often hard to predict.

Post by **ISL33P** » Mon Dec 27, 2010 4:04 pm

Let's jut say it flows A LOT more!! As well as this, it flows a lot more evenly than the standard intake due to its design. I think at th very stat of this thread it actually posted standard intake flow numbers....you can see how much variance there is and this practically eliminates all of that.

as for low end response, I cant really tell you. Considering the 8 port design i dont think it would be that bad at all. Yes there would be a difference if you went with the 4 port, but that would be expected considering the design. That 4 port manifold was specifically designed to siut the application....massive airflow for the horsepower being chased.

Post by **float_6969** » Wed Dec 29, 2010 7:22 am

I'm sorry, after re-reading what I posted, what I wanted to know wasn't clear.

What I was trying to ask was, how does the flow of this new 8 runner manifold, compare to that of your original 4 runner upper-only manifold? Does that make sense?

Post by **ISL33P** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 3:55 pm

Sorry, yes, without a doubt it does!!!

Post by **VanSil-80** » Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:34 pm

just a question about the 8 port.. it eliminates the secondary butterflies right?
what about the coolant lines that connect to the rear of the manifold?
where is the throttle cable connector, and the tps? i'd need my tps on the right side ( given you're looking at the engine straight on ) and my throttle cable connector on the left.
how about vaccuum lines, where would they connect to? fpr?

Post by **VanSil-80** » Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:37 pm

also, sorry.. looks as if id need to run 8 injectors instead of original 4 on my 8 port..
i have no idea how i'd set that up..

Post by **float_6969** » Wed Feb 02, 2011 10:29 pm

Butterflies are eliminated, as are the coolant lines on the back of the manifold. They can come with a standard Nissan flange, so you can mount the TB in the standard position. There is a row of ports on the bottom of the manifold for all of your vac lines. He can build the manifold to run either 4 injectors or 8 injectors.

Post by **ISL33P** » Fri Feb 04, 2011 12:59 am

all the questions are answered right there, thanks

Post by **VanSil-80** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:26 am

alright thanks. so this eliminates running a coolant cooled turbo im assuming..

Post by **float_6969** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 12:45 pm

No, not at all. The only purpose the lines going to the back of the manifold serve are for convection cooling of the center section after the engine has been turned off. This is mostly so that you don't need a turbo timer to cool the center section down, or at least decease oil coking if you do.

Most modern water cooled turbo's are for BB center sections that don't have enough oil flow to remove the head during use. The water is then used to keep the center section cool. You'll still have all the lines necessary for this operation to work, you just won't have the convection cooling after shutdown, which if you have a turbo timer/don't shut the motor down super hot, you'll be fine.

Post by **rossmac** » Wed Feb 09, 2011 8:57 am

They look great!
Just one question, the main water outlet (the one the thermostat bolts to) has another small outlet on the stock manifold, what does removing that do?

Post by **ISL33P** » Fri Feb 11, 2011 1:50 am

have you got a photo of the one you are talking about?

Post by **rossmac** » Fri Feb 11, 2011 2:34 am

Not a very good picture but this is where the pipe that im talking about is. its the 5/8" hose which the throttle warmer pipes tee off then it goes under the intake manifold

Post by **ISL33P** » Fri Feb 11, 2011 2:46 am

not needed at all. it can simply be blocked off where it is tee'd from

Post by **rossmac** » Fri Feb 11, 2011 4:04 am

Whats happening to the water pump when the stat's closed and youve just blocked the only other route around the engine, cant do the pump or the belt any good?

Also that pipe which you prepose blocking off runs into the heater matrix which when connected means the heater matrix starts warming up immediatly from when you start the engine however if you block this the only other place to connect the matrix would be the tee on the on the return pipe from the radiator which wont even begin to warm up untill the thermostat has opened and all the water in the radiator has warmed up. As you know on cold mornings the water inside the radiator take alot longer to warm up and your proposing I connect my heater to that? Brrr! I better wear a few extra layers!

(not to be confused with the reading on your temp gauge, thats temp of the water BEFORE the thermostat and not the water inside the rad)

This also means that anybody with water cooler turbos will be cooling the turbo before the turbo's even warmed up! we all know 80% of the engines wear happens before the engines warmed up.

Just thinking about it, the water in the return pipe doesnt circulate at all untill the thermostat opens, meaning the turbo and the heater matrix will have no circulation either,

Can you confirm that its a good idea to run my $1500 turbo with out any coolant untill the engines warmed up?

Post by **ISL33P** » Fri Feb 11, 2011 3:07 pm

These manifolds are currently running on daily drivers without any problems and have run on cars with working aircon and heaters. It may just be that you are not looking outside the square when trying to figure out where to have the water going to and from. Maybe your $1500 turbo will benefit from a little more thought from its installer, which is absolutely FREE.

Are you considering to buy one of these manifolds?

Post by **rossmac** » Fri Feb 11, 2011 4:20 pm

ISL33P wrote: Maybe your $1500 turbo will benefit from a little more thought from its installer, which is absolutely FREE.

ISL33P wrote:not needed at all. it can simply be blocked off where it is tee'd from

I thought it was simple? as your selling these manifold maybe you should advise you existing and potential customers where they should be plumbing there turbos into rather than having telling them that the feed is not needed at all and that it can be simply blocked off.there is TWO feeds from the water pump, your advising to 'simply block one' ...that only leaves one other which has a thermostat on the end of it........there is no other options to feed the turbo with warming water from the engine so what do you suggest? Is simply block it off really the answer you should be giving??................. the answer is NO!

ISL33P wrote:Are you considering to buy one of these manifolds?

Yes, however after I got a quote from you in excess of $2000 (which required me to have the drawing done aswell) I looked elsewhere and decided to go for another company who made my manifold for about a quarter of your price, my manifold leaves the stock (well designed) cooling system intact aswell so no issues resulting in cold passengers and/or premature wear/failier to the turbo.

Maybe you should consider the consequences of blocking pipes off which you do not fully understand their function,however for your benefit I will explain...

The top outlet your suggesting to block supplies warming water to the turbo from the second you start the engine, meaning you warm up the journals of the turbo nice and quick, this also feeds the heater matrix and then returns to the back of the block so the whole block warms up nice and evenly.
this same outlet actually tees to the large radiator return pipe. however whilst the thermostat is closed, the water inside the radiator cannot move, this means the only moving water is the warming water from the engine and the only route to flow is throught the matrix & turbo warming them up on the way, however soon as the engines upto temperature the water inside the radiator then flows through the Tee into the same pipework and then to the tubo to cool it down.

So to put simply, when engines cold it warms the turbo up and when the engines and turbo have warmed up there supplied with the cooled water from radiator..... as I said before....A very well designed cooling system!!!

Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

Re: Custom Plenums (intake manifolds) for CA's

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