Coolant leaking from front of engine

[Luke]

I noticed a little bit of coolant dripping on the ground today. It was dripping out pretty steadily, but not enough to drain the entire system. I got under it and saw it coming from the front of the engine, maybe from behind one of the pulleys. I didn't get a good enough look. My guess is that it is the water pump, but i don't have my FSM so i don't know what each of those pulleys are for. Can anyone tell me which one is the water pump. What do they typically do when they're gonna die. My car isn't over heating (even though it's real cold, it should heat up) It only leaked bad when i first started it this morning, and then it wasn't doing it at all i think for the rest of the day.

How much does the pump run for and if i took it to get fixed somewhere, what can i expect to pay. Or should i try to repair it on my own (im not very experienced)

[trpower7]

The water pump is the one the mechanical fan is bolted to, if I remember correctly. Water pumps will whine, etc, leak, when they are about to give, I'd say yours is about shot. The heat of warming it up will cause the seal to expand, that's why it stopped leaking it. A pump runs around $100, and you can pay up to $250 if a shop does it for you. Only try it yourself if you have the time, it's not that hard, just be sure to clean the gasket sealing area and tighten the belts back up.

[Luke]

Any tips or instructions on replacing this? Do i need any special types of seals/gaskets or does the new pump come with it all? Thanks

[pitbull_240]

Sounds like you and I have the same problem. Mine leaks maybe a cup of coolant over a 8-10 hour period. But it funny, it isn't every day. I plan on replacing the water pump, thermostat, timing chains and gears, and removing the tension guides while all that is open. I am also thinking about removing my mechanical fan, rewiring my electrical to keep coolant cool, and replacing all stock pulleys with U/R Ultra Pulley set.

Depending on where you get the pump, it should come with required gaskets.

[gruntzz]

The water pump is a breeze to replace. It IS the one with the fan bolted to it. The KA for some reason seems to be put together with mostly silicone sealant. When I did the timing chain on the KA in my truck the only gasket that came in the kit was for the oil pump. If there is no indication of pump failure just pull off the old pump clean the mating surfaces and buy a tube of Silicone RTV in any auto parts store (about $3) and there you go.The hardest part is going to be removing the fan shroud and fan to give yourself space to work. email or PM me I can send you the procedures from my truck FSM which are the same. I am still waiting for my 240SX manual in the mail.

[Queamore]

The best thing to do is make sure you clean all the old gasket and anything off the engin very well get some sand paper if you can to make sure it's spotless. if you don't clean it perfectly it will continue to leak and you'll have to do it again.

[Luke]

thanks guys, that helps a lot

[Freakmech]

um this my sound like a long shot but you said you didnt get a good look. i have a 92' w\ 91k on the odom and my coolant tank rotted out. you could check this too. the bottom was greenish and was spilling coolant.

[WhItES13]

Paying 100 bucks for a water pump is pretty expensive!! I got mine from the local advance auto parts for 30 bucks!!! It may not be the best but it does the job pretty well!!

[gruntzz]

my coolant tank rotted out.

Good Point! I am dealing with this right now as we "speak". I had some coolant around the top of the radiator and assumed that it was residual from opening the cap while it was still warm. A week later a 3 inch crack opened up on the front side of the radiator from the inlet hose. Check the whole top section of the radiator for what looks like a tiny web of cracks running laterally.

[dust8614]

I'm having a similar problem...I just replaced the water pump myself (easy enough) and still have an overheating problem. If I take the radiater cap off and let the steam just rise out the temp gauge won't go up but as soon as I put that sucker on all that steam builds up and makes the overflow boil! I have no idea what the problem is and would appreciate some tips on what the hell could be causing this.. the shop said the water pump was the problem and wanted 230$ to do it..so I said **** that, sounds simple enough, and it was. But now I have this steam problem...help!?!?

[dust8614]

And my overflow tank is rottin away too!

[WhItES13]

After you replaced your water pump did you bleed the coolant line? There could be air trapped in there causing it to over heat. There is a bleeder screw located at the end of the radiator hose that goes into the block unscrew(slowly until steam starts to come out) and let the steam come out until water/coolant comes out. Try this sounds like you have air bubbles in your coolant lines. Hope this helps!!

[dust8614]

I just installed a new thermostat and tried bleeding it for about 20 minutes..it helped a little but will still make all the steam boil the overflow within 1 minute of driving.. so yeah any other ideas?

[gruntzz]

Open your bleed valve while the engine is cold . Fill your radiator until you start to get coolant from the valve. If there is a lot of air trapped in your coolant system you may have to start the engine, shut down, open the valve and service the radiator a couple of times. You shouldn't run the engine with the bleed valve open nor should you open the valve while the engine is hot. The only purpose for that valve is to allow air to escape while servicing.

[dust8614]

by 'service' you mean...fill it ??..

[yellow_jacket]

Did you replace the thermostat? Try that too. If you bleed all the air out and still have this problem, pull the radiator and take it to a radiator shop to have it flow checked. If that doesn't take care of it, then it is the head gasket.

[dust8614]

brand new radiator, water pump, radiator cap, and thermostat. I've tried different ways of 'getting the air out' and none seem to work.. so would it be the head gasket?..