CODE 34 DETINATION

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z32partsmo
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Car: 1990 z32 NA 2 seater

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CODE 34 DETINATION
I was haveing a slight miss problem so I checked codes and this is what I got. I need help. Previous owner did motor swap and made a mess of wires and it seems nothing is were its suppost to be. I need to know where this sensor is located on the motor so I can track it down and check connections. Please show pics if you got um. where is it located and what does it look like thanks.


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NolimitZ32
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The knock sensor is under the lower intake plenum on the rear of the motor, it's bolted to the block, the pigtail for it runs through the lower plenum casting from the factory, it may be ran different on yours since the engine was swapped. All I can say is good luck getting to it.

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Milton'Z Nissan'Z
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Car: 1990 300ZX tt
1990 240SX

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z32partsmo wrote:CODE 34 DETINATION
I was haveing a slight miss problem so I checked codes and this is what I got. I need help. Previous owner did motor swap and made a mess of wires and it seems nothing is were its suppost to be. I need to know where this sensor is located on the motor so I can track it down and check connections. Please show pics if you got um. where is it located and what does it look like thanks.
I would start by checking if the DET sensor was accidentally plugged into the VTC plug as they are the same and it will reduce power and throw code 34 if that happened. It's at least worth a shot to check. If not, I'd buy a new DET sensor and plug it into the harness and see if the code goes away. If not, then it's in the wiring. If it does, just mount it out of the way somewhere (but bolt it down so it grounds). Unless you run low octane fuel and have the timing set too advanced, you pretty much never get detonation on an N/A. Changing the sensor out is a TON of work and not worth it in your situation in my opinion.

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z32partsmo
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I checked timing today and it was set at 30 btdc I moved the CAS all the way over and got it to 20 btdc, but runs even worse than it did at 30. what could cause this? Could the timing belt jump a tooth and still run like this? Just in case your wondering timing was checked at operating temp 900-1000 rpm

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evildky
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how fast is your car ideling when you set the timing? and you did hook the light to #1 right?

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z32partsmo
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I put the inductive pickup on the black loop wire. Am I forgetting something else. I was reading somewhere that I might have to disconnect the tps. Is this true? What is the proper procedure for setting timing. Also need proper procedure for installing CAS. I tried doing search on the forum, but the search sux found nothing. Have better luck searching yahoo. lol

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z32partsmo
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What is proper procedure for setting timing? I used black wire loop for inductive pickup.

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Milton'Z Nissan'Z
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1990 240SX

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z32partsmo wrote:What is proper procedure for setting timing? I used black wire loop for inductive pickup.
*make sure the crank pulley line and the timing tab are clean so you can see them
1. warm the engine to operating temp
2. loosen the 3 10mm CAS bolts just enough so it can be turned but stays where you put it
3. clamp your light on the loop or on #1 (the front PS) coil pack wiring harness. If you don't get a reading then flip the clamp over
4. start the engine.
5. point the light at the crank pulley/timing tab and see what it reads.
6, adjust CAS as necessary to get 15 degrees.

If you are getting 30 degrees and it can't be corrected, some thing is wrong like as evil says the idle is way to high, or possibly something else. Has anyone changed the timing belt since it did run properly?

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z32partsmo
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Thank you very much for the help. thats exactly what i did I got a different reading from the black loop vs the wires going right to the coil. seems to be good. this dang car runs different everyday. lol

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Milton'Z Nissan'Z
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If it "runs different every day" there's a good chance your connectors are corroded making poor contact causing intermittent issues. The connectors with the spring clip ( CAS. PTU, Coolant Temp Sensor, TPS, MAF, Injectors, AAC, FICD,) should be taken off and inspected as they are very prone to corrosion causing running issues, but easy to correct. Scrape off all you can with a dental pick and small file, then spray with high quality contact cleaner.

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evildky
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the black loop isn't always a great piclup point, I and silvertwin use an old pathfinder sparkplug wire to amke a bridge between the #1 cop and the spark plug adn hook the light to that wire


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