Code 32 "EGR Function"

[Aus94Q45]

He is what I have:

1. Gas/Exhuast smell when car is warming up for first ten minutes. It comes into the cabin through the fan. If I turn the fan off it tends to stay out of the cabin. The smell subsides after the car runs about 15 minutes. Seems to be originating under the hood, but I cannot see any visible cracks in hoses or fuel leaks.

2. Engine light comes on after it warms up and I have been driving approxiamtely 15 to 18 minutes. I checked the code today and got 32. When I restart the car the dash light remains off and retruns only after 15 to 18 mins. of driving.

3. Gas mileage has been normal and acceleration seems normal.

4. Slightly lowered idle . . . about 600 to 650 in gear, no a/c.

I am not sure how to isolate this from here. I have checked the vacuum hoses running to the EGR valve and they look old but fine. I will replace them tomorrow, but I seriously doubt that is part of the problem (ie. just maintence).

Any thoughts will be appreciated. Thanks!

[elwesso]

I just perused the EGR section of the FSM, and it looks as if your gonna need a new valve....

Test the valve function by going out to the car.... Start the engine, and put your finger underneath the EGR valve......There should be a little opening, and while the engine is running, push up on it..... The engine speed should go down....... If not, then there's your problem...!

[Q451990]

I'd say you have two problems

The first is probably loose hose clamps on your fuel lines under the plenum causing the smell. This shows up in colder (about 55F and lower) ambient temperatures on the first start-up of the day.

I wouldn't replace the EGR valve without further investigation - I've never heard of a faiure of the valve on a Q. There's a vacuum hose that's fed by a solenoid that controls the valve. You could have problems with the vacuum line, the BPT valve hose, or corroded solenoid. It's also possible to have enough carbon build-up to cause a problem. My guess it's not a defective valve, but a control problem or carbon issue.

Your car (i believe) has an EGR temp sensor that bolts in to the plenum at the EGR port. You might also make sure it's working correctly. That's the sensor that's tripping the "check engine" light.

Good luck!

Heath

[Aus94Q45]

I will check the opening under the EGR valve. The fuel hoses should be good as they were changed 14 mons ago and I have been getting the fumes in high heat 90 to 100 degrees here in Texas. It is more of a laquer/fuel/exhuast smell than straight fuel. Also, I cannot see any signs of fuel line leaks in the system.

I will check the vacuum lines from the soleniod and see if I can check the soleniod itself. It does have a sensor in the plenum. Not sure how to check it, but I will remove and clean it.

We had a cold front so the temps have dropped to the 50's. The light took much longer to come on today while drivng on the highway.

Thanks again fro any more suggestions . . . .

[DougQ45]

Per q45 Tech, electrical problems trigger the check engine light--not mechanical. Check your EGR solenoid valve which is under the black plastic front cover, near the front drivers side fuel injector (#2??). Just replaced teh solnoid on my 94, was about $68 from Joe and a 30 minute job. The solenoid was intermittent, and came on after a short ride.

[Aus94Q45]

At idle, pushing up under the EGR valve slows and ulitmately kills the engine. Thus the valve seems to be in working order. THe hoses look good and snug. Doug, how did you test the solenoid? Sounds very similar, but I hate to simply throw parts and money at it.

Any experiences with the charcoal canister as a source of the gas fumes? I am at 98K mi. and seem to recall that some members have commented that the cannister eventually becomes ineffective at removing the fumes.

Of course none of this would seem to affect the lowered idle.

[DougQ45]

I was able to test the solenoid by repeatedly applying battery voltage to it with jumper wires--car NOT running, but ignition in the "on" position. It would activiate only 4 or 5 times out of say 7 or 8 tries. It is very easy to test, only 10 minutes.

[Q451990]

At idle, pushing up under the EGR valve slows and ulitmately kills the engine. Thus the valve seems to be in working order.

That only means the passages to and from the valve are relatively clean.

You need to check to make sure the valve is actually operating. If you can feel the bottom of the valve (that you pushed up on to drop the idle) when you rev the engine up, you should feel the valve lift and flutter. It'll open from something like 1800-4000RPM if I remember correctly. If it doesn't move, I'd check the terminals on the solenoid to see if they have corrosion - I've had that happen before - just clean with electrical contact cleaner, grease with di-electric grease, and all should be fine.

As to your other question... I've never seen problems with the carbon canister.

With the smell you're mentioning, I'd sure check to make sure that tube that feeds the EGR is connected well on the bottom side and isn't damaged in some way.

Heath

[Aus94Q45]

Thanks Doug and Heath! I will keep working with it. Thanks to others for any additional input.