I'm coming to the CA family for this one. Just feel out of place in the regular community..haha

Since I just installed my Spec Stage 2+ clutch and don't want to ruin it with bad clutch adjustment, I've been reading through the FSM and the NICO pages and am just kind of confused I guess. The FSM states to adjust the clutch pedal high to just around 7" off the floor of the car. Mine is at about 5.5" or so. The FSM states to adjust pedal high with the pedal stopper and to adjust free play by adjust the clutch master cylinder rod. I can remove the clutch pedal stopper and still have pedal high around 5.5". I guess before I go turning things and messing with the adjustment I'm just looking for some advice. The Clutch fully disengages and engages fine but the pedal travel is quite short it seems. I've never adjust any of the components since driving the car and I drove on the stock clutch for years and it always drove fine.

Should I just leave the pedal alone and enjoy or should I set the pedal height and free play to OE specifications?
If I adjust the clutch master cylinder rod, does will that raise the clutch pedal high or will it just move the piston inside the master cylinder and just cause me to lose pedal travel?

Thanks in advance guys.
Zak

It DOES need re-adjusted. From what I've found, the FSM is weird about the clutch adjustment. You can set it just about anywhere really, especially with a SPEC clutch, as they don't tend to need as much travel as an ACT does. Really, the important thing is that the clutch master rod is full extended with no load on it when it's at rest. You should be able to get under the dash and look at the rod and wiggle the pedal a bit before the rod moves. I run the pedal almost as far down onto the clutch master rod as it will go, but that's because I don't like the pedal to be up high. Just my preference. Sometimes it won't go that far down and still engage the upper stop at rest, so I have to adjust it back up. That's about it. I have seen some clutches that won't completely dis-engage the clutch when adjusted like that because they need more travel and so you have to adjust the upper stop and pedal back up to get enough travel, but that's really not likely on a SPEC.

There is a concern though that if you raise the clutch too high, it does start to move the piston inside the clutch master and pre-load everything. THAT is what you absolutely don't want.

I can say for sure that my clutch master cylinder rod is adjust all the way out like you described and there is play in the pedal before it actually moves the the rod as well. Basically all the threads on the rod are pulled through the little bracket deal that goes on the actual pedal and has the pin through it. Maybe I'm just not use to it yet because I drove a 95 Grand Am GT 5spd all winter, but it engages and disengages fine. Actually the car runs better now than it ever really has. My main concern was pre-loading the system while adjusting the pedal height and rod length and what not. You definitely answer my concerns Ryan. Thanks bud!