Clutch adjustment for G35/350Z

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joe603
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Car: 2014 Durango R/T
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Clutch adjustment for G35/350Z

Postby joe603 » Fri Jun 15, 2007 9:26 am

Step 1: Remove the footrest. Unscrew the 5 screws holding the aluminum plate, then the 2 plastic screws holding it to the floor.

Step 2: Remove the fuse box. Clips hold it in, be careful taking it out.

**These steps are not required, but will make the adjustment easier.

Step 3: Locate and mark the adjustment turnbuckle. Don’t skip this step!

Step 4: Loosen the locknut that holds the turnbuckle bolt in place.

Step 5: With the turnbuckle loose, turn it towards the driver’s side of the car. Only turn it 2 complete turns, any more and you can have negative results.

**I would say counter-clockways, but if you were up-side-down, it would be the other way!

Step 6: Tighten the locknut securely. You may need to use a medium sized screwdriver to hold the assembly in place while you tighten.

Now with it adjusted, time to test before you put everything back together.

With the car in an enclosed space put it in neutral. Listen for our famous clutch/flywheel chatter with the clutch up. Depress the clutch, and the noise should go away. If you depress the clutch and you can still hear the chatter, you’ve adjusted the turnbuckle too much! With the car off, make sure you can go into every gear. If all is well, take it for a test drive.

You’ll notice that the clutch “feels” different. From a stop, it should be MUCH less jerky. After a little joyride with your new car, reinstall the dead pedal and fuse box in the reverse order.

I would also recommend a clutch fluid replacement. Use a good DOT 4 synthetic. Simply remove the old fluid with a syringe, and add new. Pump the clutch about 20 times, and repeat until the fluid is totally clear.





WECHSLERL
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Re: Clutch adjustment for G35/350Z (joe603)

Postby WECHSLERL » Sat Jul 07, 2007 7:14 am

I OWN A G35 MANUAL T.SAME CLUTCH-SAME TRANNY.WHY YOU NEED TO ADJUST THE CLUTCH AND WHAT ADVANTAGES/DISADDVANTAGES YOU GET FROM IT?CAN YOU PLEASE ELLABORATE?!LW

joe603
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Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2005 5:45 am
Car: 2014 Durango R/T
Location: Atlanta

Postby joe603 » Sat Jul 07, 2007 9:35 am

Have you driven other cars with a clutch? Notice that the G35 clutch is very jerky? It's due to the clutch engagement point. Doing this mod will adjust the engagement; basically it will use more of the clutch pedal or travel to engage. The result is a clutch that isn't as jerky ie- smoother.

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2mhighside
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Re: Clutch adjustment for G35/350Z (joe603)

Postby 2mhighside » Thu Sep 20, 2007 8:54 am

Thanx for this little tidbit I was at my Infinity dealer a few weeks ago asking them to do just this but NOOOO its just fine. I also have another question. I am running a set of 275/30/20 ES100's i have ALOT of hook up and have been having the slip light come on. Im assuming without reading my manual and because i can feel the clutch silp that infact it is slipping. I think my pressure plate is glazed now. Has anyone else had these kinds of problems? I am planning a turbo kit very soon and i dont think the factory clutch can even handle the HP and traction the car has now. I know the answer already light weight flywheel and performance clutch. Just wondering if im the only one?

joe603
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Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2005 5:45 am
Car: 2014 Durango R/T
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Postby joe603 » Thu Sep 20, 2007 9:02 am

Welcome to NICO!!

First, the slip indicator is your VDC kicking in, nothing to do with the clutch. Try turning off the VDC and see if you're clutch is in fact slipping. A good way to test is to go slow on a hill in 6th. If the engine revs up, but you don't accelerate, you're clutch is slipping.

I would say that the stock clutch should be fine up to 400rwhp. After that, the stock block along with some of the drivetrain components will need to be replaced. The main problem with aftermarket clutches is the annoying chatter they WILL make.

Keep us posted on the turbo upgrade!! I'm gonna supercharge....eventually

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2mhighside
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Re: (joe603)

Postby 2mhighside » Thu Sep 20, 2007 10:30 pm

Oh dont worry i know the VDC AKA fun killer button very well. its second nature when i turn the key i push the button. My clutch definatley slips. Infact it is making some new noises these days. I think its time for a trip to the dealer who is usualy useless with anything they cant visualy see wrong. I do want to upgrade the clutch but dont want the chatter any sudgestions of a good clutch to use or is it worth my time just to throw in the lightweight flywheel and keep a stock clutch.

joe603
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Postby joe603 » Fri Sep 21, 2007 3:55 am

I've heard good things about the JWT clutch...but ANY aftermarket clutch will chatter. The reason is the OEM flywheel is a dual-mass design to eliminate some of the noise. When you go aftermarket, you use a different flywheel.

Alteus
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Re: (joe603)

Postby Alteus » Thu Jan 24, 2008 7:17 am

joe603 wrote:I've heard good things about the JWT clutch...but ANY aftermarket clutch will chatter. The reason is the OEM flywheel is a dual-mass design to eliminate some of the noise. When you go aftermarket, you use a different flywheel.
I have the JWT clutch / flywheel combo in mine, and the chatter is only noticeable if you're listening for it, or if it's really quiet in the car (i.e. no music, windows up, nobody talking).

Is it really necessary to change the clutch fluid when you do this adjustment? And where exactly are you sticking the syringe to get the fluid out? The only thing I don't like about the JWT setup is that it seems to have made the engagement point change, and now it doesn't fully engage until literally right at the end. So I want to adjust it, but I'm confused about this last step.

joe603
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Postby joe603 » Wed Feb 04, 2009 6:06 am

I used a syringe in the clutch fluid reservoir instead of going through the bleeding process. You simply suck out the old fluid, refill with DOT 4, and pump the clutch pedal a few times and repeat until it stays clear in the reservoir.

Ainsworth
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Car: 2004 Nissan 350Z

Re: Clutch adjustment for G35/350Z

Postby Ainsworth » Thu May 14, 2015 10:48 am

I will try this tonight. My problem is the opposite. The clutch engages too low, making it difficult to shift into reverse or first. I frequently just shut the engine off to shift into first or reverse (since I am stopped anyway). This allows me to shift without grinding.


I find the comments abou the chatter to be enlightening. I had an aftermarket clutch put in a couple of years ago because the OEM was $2,000+ (installed). The aftermarket was $1,000 installed. For $1,000, I'll put up with the chatter and stop swearing at my mechanic every time I put the car in nuetral. :chuckle:

Ainsworth
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Car: 2004 Nissan 350Z

Re: Clutch adjustment for G35/350Z

Postby Ainsworth » Fri May 15, 2015 9:51 am

This worked great. Since my problem was that the clutch was not fully disengaging when the pedal was pushed all the way to the floor, I turned the turnbuckle the opposite direction (toward the passenger side). I turned it 3 turns, test drove with good results, but he clutch still engaged a little low, so I gave it another turn. I might try another turn or two to bring the engagement up to about the middle, but my problem is solved!!!

Thank you, Joe.


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