CLICKING SOUND NEED ADVICE!

[stillena33driver]

well I got a 2003 Nissan Maxima SE with a short ram intake and header back exhaust...and ever since i got my exhaust i hear a clicking sound coming from my engine bay wen i slow accelerate...its a loud very rapid clicking noise...i dunno wah it is...will someone give me some advice?

[NSR_s30]

Lifters? I'm not sure though, I'd have to hear it. It wouldn't hurt to take it to the dealer and ask....good luck with it though.

[maxhopper]

Can you narrow down the area where the noise is coming from? It's possible it could be the timing chain guides, but that's just a stab in the dark.

[Beancooker]

It's not an exhaust leak, is it?

[MagikDragon]

This could be total coincidence, because the sound you described sounds like an axle.

Does the sound go away after about 15 miles an hour?

Does it sound louder when you take a left or right hand turn?

[MaximA32]

could have a broken CV boot. if thats the case, would have to replace the entire shaft.

[stillena33driver]

ok its wen im going uphill slowly accelerating....i kno for a fact its not my axels...jus got some new ones a couple weeks ago

[MagikDragon]

did you get new ones or refurbished ones? one of them could still be bad just because its new. could just be some bad bearings. i would have them checked out anyway. thats all i can really think of.Also if you think the exhaust is the culprit, change it back to stock and see if this fixes your problem. I know its a PITA, but it might fix your problem.

[02sixspeedmaximaselover]

Hey Buddy, I got the same friggin problem. Just started happening about a month ago. 02 maxima SE, six speed, 85k miles. I get 3000 mile oil changes religiously and only use 91, 92 octane gas. I thought it might of been my fly wheel, i had my clutch replaced a year ago with a brand new clutch, but i was told they had to do a bit of resurfacing to the fly wheel. It sounded like it was coming from that area. Old school typewriter gone crazy sound, usually when I'm accelerating or decelerating gently, easier to do in 1st, 2nd, or third, around 1700 - 2200 rpms. Dissappears when I go faster than 40 mph, or when I blast my stereo. So I took it to my mechanic who I trust, even gave him a ride to hear it. He says it sounds like its coming from the engine. I leave it there, next day he calls, "Not good, we got problems" tells me he removed all belts and isolated the engine. Its definately coming from the engine, basically tells me I need a new one, found the same one with 42k miles on it for $1600, says the whole job is gonna run me around $2200 to $2300 bucks, labor and taxes. This was yesterday, I told him go for it, I still owe 12 thousand plus on it so I'm not sellin it for 4k. I love the car, but in the year and a half I've owned it (cosmetically mint, bought it with 73 k on it), I've had to install a new clutch (dealer $700), power steering pump (mechanic $220), my power moonroof no longer slides open (told it would cost $1600), and now my engine. Whats the deal, I thought Nissan's were a quality vehicle, am I wrong, don't wanna be, I'm loyal to it, but I'm no millionaire either. Hopefully this will be the last prob I have in long time.

[maxhopper]

A new engine, are you serious? Man, that blows. Is your mechanic going to tear down your current engine to find the problem? Has he isolated the noise to the heads or bottom end? Replacing the whole motor just seems like an extremely drastic solution, especially given the VQ's reputation. Is there any way one of you guys could capture the sound on video/audio?

[02sixspeedmaximaselover]

Tell me about it man, let me call him and ask him a few questions.

[02sixspeedmaximaselover]

Alright, just got off the phone with the mech, he's def a cool guy. First off, he says its def the motor, bottom end ping/knock. Completely isolated the engine, no alternator, no ac, no nothin, no power steering, brakes, whatever, disconnected everything, just the motor. Bottom end ping/knock. VQ is falling apart internally. When he's done fixing my car, he's gonna take the old engine apart and find out what happened, he's curious why that motor with 85k miles on it is falling apart. He wants to see if it was a maintenance issue, mechanical, or whatever, to see if thats what caused it, he'll let me know in a week to two weeks. Said he had a new nissan minivan with the same motor come in, motor was F'd up bad, found out, I guess the air intake on that thing is by the front tire, underneath, guy drove through a puddle, water got in, and eventually got in the engine, and blew the whole thing apart. I dunno man, this sucks, I mean, I'm reading rave reviews about the VQ, yet there's like a hundred of these mystery clicking sound posts, and they're all prob the same thing, the crappy (right now thats how I feel) VQ. He said its a good motor too, but he's had few over the past couple years that had to be replaced. So you tell me, is the VQ a good motor, and is Nissan a good car, right now I'm so pissed I'd have to say NO, but hey, I could just be unlucky. We'll see, at least I get my baby back, with a replaced VQ, only 40k miles younger. I'm still loyal to Nissan, cause the other two co. aren't as cool, and because I still have faith that Nissan is a quality car, but one more big thing, and I'm getting a toyota or benz next. I'll never touch a Honda.

[maxhopper]

I definitely feel your pain. I doubt I'd be taking things as calmy, if I were in your situation.

Please keep us updated as to what your mechanic finds on the tear-down. I, as well as others here, will be very interested.

[xerexabante]

i have the same problem. if you want to check your knock sensor. it comes out when you slow accel. between 1500-2000rpm right? mine does. it looks like it could be a knock sensor to me. if the knock sensor is bad it does not throw a MIL. basically you have to either tap it to wake it up, and or test the resistance. sad enough you can not tap it ti wake it uup because you ca not reach it. located smack in the middle of the V under the inake. i have ordered 1 about $90. bjut when i foud out i have to take the inakte out i changed my mind. will do mine if i start loosing power. just for now i just drive harder to pass 2000rpm.

hope i answered some of your questions.

[DaBalla07]

hey just a helpful piece of info, I had the exact problem last week and come to find out it was only a shock. put some wd-40 on all 4 shocks and etc. especially the front, drive it and do the same the next day and if its doesnt stop then try the next steps to serious problems above. I did this and havent had a prblm yet. hope its simple as mine

[02sixspeedmaximaselover]

So I got my car back with the newly replaced motor. Another VQ but with 43k. Anyway, he changed all my plugs, replaced a leaky ac line, belts, hoses, added freon, cleaned up a dusty clutch, oil change and blah blah blah $2700! Under the hood is all clean and the motor looks newer. It definately feels a whole lot better, smoother and quieter, even the clutch and changing gears is much improved. Anyway, three things. First, one thing I've noticed is, say I'm cruising and all of a sudden I decide to floor it, before, it would just go (I love that about my Max), but now, and I'm not sure if I'm being too critical, but it feels like when I floor it, there is a slight hesitation, then like a jerk, then it kicks in and accelerates. It feels like it has the same power but then sometimes it doesn't. Its still fast, I don't know maybe I ought to give it more time. Let me know if you think I'm crazy or if something needs to be adjusted.2nd, is my car the same now. I mean, is it a lesser car now that its heart has been replaced with the same kind, but with 42k less. Is it worth mentioning if I ever had to sell it, or does it look bad. At this point, I plan on keeping it forever, and when the $ starts to roll in in Jan, I'm gonna start hookin it up, maybe a performance clutch, etc.3rd, can one of experts tell me how to drive it. Everyone says I beat the the **** out of it. I take high speed turns, like to race it at lights, you, know, throw it in first, red line it, shift to 2nd, red line it, etc. What rpm do I want to be cruising at 3000, 4000? when is a safe time, for the car, to switch, at 4500? I am very guilty of riding the clutch too, does that damage the engine? The mechanic hasn't touched the broken motor yet, but he firmly believes it has a broken cam. Oh yeah, one more thing, I've been reading about synthetics, and when my mech was installing the newer motor, I asked him to go fully synthetic, but he wouldn't do it cause he says "we don't know whats been runnin in it already". Tell me what you guys think. I'd appreciate it, and when I decide to start hookin her up, believe me, I'll be asking you guys for suggestions. Real quick, whats like a quick and easy way to do something now, for performance. 6speed, 2002, 3.5 MAXIMA

[02sixspeedmaximaselover]

I'm bored at work, someone hook my last post up with a response please!

[maxhopper]

1. With the car being drive by wire, I'm not sure that there is any kind of mechanical adjustment.2. Less mileage on the motor is a good thing. I wouldn't worry about telling a potential buyer about it. 3.Take it easy, shifting around 3000rpms is fine if you're just cruising. Reaming on it and taking it to redline constantly is just wearing on your valvetrain, and killing your gas mileage. Riding the clutch just means you're going to have to replace it sooner.

[02sixspeedmaximaselover]

thanks1) so you're saying that its me and I'm just being to sensitive to it, you're prob right, it seems normal. But what does drive by wire mean, you talkin about the accelerator wire that you pull under the hood that revs the engine?

2)About the engine and potential buyers, cool.

3) I don't drive it like that anymore, but of course i did when i first got it, kinda like a new girlfriend. Nor do I ride the clutch as much. Believe me, I'm being really nice to her now. Cool, thanks man.

[maxhopper]

Here's a pretty interesting article about drive by wire. http://www.carnuttv.com/articl...e.htm

[02sixspeedmaximaselover]

Thanks for the Drive by Wire link.

Ok, I read it, and did a little on-line reasearch. So what you're saying is that there should be no difference in performance because all the mechanic had to do after installing my newer motor was basically connect a bunch of computer cables together and they automatically/electronically reset and adjust everything so that it performs properly.

I read a lot on the ECU too and have seen quite a few posts here on it. Why all the talk on reseting it here? Is it some kind of speed governor, can it be disabled, and if so, will my car hit a higher top speed, or am I way off. Why would anyone want to mess with it?

[maxhopper]

Thanks for the Drive by Wire link.

Ok, I read it, and did a little on-line reasearch. So what you're saying is that there should be no difference in performance because all the mechanic had to do after installing my newer motor was basically connect a bunch of computer cables together and they automatically/electronically reset and adjust everything so that it performs properly.

You are exactly right. According to the FSM, any malfunction in the throttle control system should throw a code (P1121, P1122, P1124, P1126, P1128). I have not been able to find any kind of callibration procedure, which leads me to believe that there isn't one. You would think that with the technology necessary for the concept of drive by wire, that some sort of adjustment for "feel" would be built in as well.

I read a lot on the ECU too and have seen quite a few posts here on it. Why all the talk on reseting it here? Is it some kind of speed governor, can it be disabled, and if so, will my car hit a higher top speed, or am I way off. Why would anyone want to mess with it?

In my opinion, there is no need to eliminate a speed governing device unless you plan on going over 115mph in the quarter mile. To do so on public streets is assinine and uncalled for. If you have the need for an ECU reflash due to a turbo or super charger, then getting the governer taken care of won't cost you any extra.

My 2 cents.

[Sentientbydesign]

If my I30 was speed governed I'd have that changed in an instant. What's the use in having a car with a nice V6 if you can't use it. I don't support excessive speeding on public streets...well atleast not when there are people around. If you know it's empty, use it!!!

Here's a link regarding the ECU. It basically manages your engine's fuel/air ratio as well as a few other areas by monitoring the engine's sensors.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_Control_Unit

Sometimes you can reflash an ECU to give you a richer air/fuel ratio which will give you more power, but you'll be hurting at the pump.

As far as a quick power upgrade is concerned... Intake and exhaust are always the first ones to go with. Good quality ones will put you back about $300. Something decent can be had for around $150 if you shop around right. Also a y-pipe. Or so I've been told. Typical power increases about 10-15 hp it's also illegal for street driving and will significantly increase your noise output. Actually, so will the intake and exhaust, but they can be had legally.

I'd also dump some injector cleaner in your tank for a little pick-me-up. I personally like Lucas, but everyone has their brand of choice. NOS brand is a complete waste of money though!

Be nice to your car and it'll last you like mine. I'm running 246k It lacks it's original power but it still takes off. Needs lots of work though to get it back to it's original state.

[stillena33driver]

grrrr found out wah that stupid clickin sound was it was my shocks...dunno how or wah i did....jus put in brand new Tokico illumia shocks now my car is fine...dayum OEM shocks -_-'