check engine light on '01 QX4
check engine light on '01 QX4
my check engine light just came on.code came up as P1135 (Intake Valve Timing Control, RH Bank 2). I've been driving for about 50 miles with the light on.should i not be driving with this code? also, can this be fixed myself? i've pulled engines before, so i know my way around a wrench. i did use regular fuel for about 2 tankfulls, but i'm on my 3rd tank of premium now.
your bank reference is incorrect. Bank 2 is the LH side. Your problem is the VTC solonoid it is not reponding properly to the ECM requests. To prove this with a consultII [factory scan tool] You moniter both intake timing sensors and both intake solonoids. on a road test after about 2.5 miles you will see that B1 intake timing is pretty steady at about 12 Degrees and B2 intake timing is fluctuating pretty good at or around 7 degrees but will climb back up to match B1 every now and then sometimes it will go to about 17 degrees this will vary depending on engine load. but at steady throttle on a mild accel you will see them doing that. The way they are suppose to work is they run pretty steady with in a degree of each other. the soloniods will reveal that the ecm is trying to correct it and duty cycling it accordingly but it is not responding properly. The solonoid is located on the left valve cover about 2 to 3 inches from the timing cover. there is a group of connectors mounted above it. undo the 2 10mm bolts that hold the bracket to the front of the timing cover unplug the connectors and you can move the bracket out of the way to gain access to the solonoid. it is held down by 3 ?? 10mm bolts. When you purchase it be sure to get the gasket too as it does not come with the solonoid.
NOTE: left refers to drivers side and right to the passenger side. This holds true when ordering parts as well.
NOTE: left refers to drivers side and right to the passenger side. This holds true when ordering parts as well.
thank you VERY much NISTECH. 
once I read your reply, i went out to take a look. the solenoid is right there,so access is very easy. hopefully it doesn't cost too much for it. will i harm anything if i still have to drive the vehicle (only about 10-20 miles)? Thanks again as you've been very helpful.
once I read your reply, i went out to take a look. the solenoid is right there,so access is very easy. hopefully it doesn't cost too much for it. will i harm anything if i still have to drive the vehicle (only about 10-20 miles)? Thanks again as you've been very helpful.give it about 2 months maybe sooner and the code will come back. I know what they replaced and its the wrong part. You need the solonoid for the VTC replaced not the sensor. Do you know if they performed a DTC comfirmation when they completed the repairs? This is done by maintaining a steady speed at 2000 to 3000 rpms in 1st gear for at least 20 secs. if there is still a problem it will set the code again as a first trip code[this will not illuminate the CEL on the 1st trip codes] When it is detected a second time it will set the light.
Our customer RO's always list the part numbers. I too have replaced that sensor only to find that was it. The ESM doesnot list the solonoid as one of the possible parts to cuse the code so it often gets overlooked and the sensor gets replaced instead due to the notorious Engine sensor failures on the sedans.
I had my Service Engine Soon light come up. I brought it to the dealership after I got it fixed a month ago. They ran a check and said it was because the gas cap wasn't on tight enough.
"You need to turn it to at least 4 clicks"
I've been turning to 1 click.
They charged me $110.
I don't know whether to feel ripped off or stupid (Probably the latter).
Well, just thought I'd tell my dumb story so it doesn't happen to you guys/gals (which probably won't).
"You need to turn it to at least 4 clicks"
I've been turning to 1 click.
They charged me $110.
I don't know whether to feel ripped off or stupid (Probably the latter).
Well, just thought I'd tell my dumb story so it doesn't happen to you guys/gals (which probably won't).
actually ched it happens about every day. People constantly leave it loose. at first we did the consult check out when we discovered what caused the light we let it go as a courtsy, but after a year or 2 of going through the check outs for free. We saw a trend in this that could cost us time and in our buisness time is money. We only get payed for the work we do meaning the customer has to pay for the repair for us to get payed. There is a warning in the owners manual about triggering the CEL when you forget to put your gas cap back on. You have to understand thats why you got charged. In my opinion I think it was a bit high but each shop has its own policy. Also though there is no need for you to feel stupid. It happens quite frequently.
NISTECH, thanks for response. Being a car fanatic, I thought something like that would never happen to me. I also listen for the click, but I guess sometimes it just doesn't do it. Lesson learned for a day's work of pay! Can't complain, you're right. If something was wrong, the dealer would definitely be the ones to find it.
Any chance you checked out my posting on mods, like upgrading spark plugs (what's the stock ones?), ignition etc...?
Thanks.
Any chance you checked out my posting on mods, like upgrading spark plugs (what's the stock ones?), ignition etc...?
Thanks.
NISTECH, as I thought, the platinums were replaced prematurely by the dealer. Not a huge deal, by still bothersome. Is there any benefit to switching back to platinums, maybe at my next 15K service? I've looked at various posts on the issue, but nothing very conclusive. BTW, the Pathfinder runs excellent as is, even with non-platinums.
The only difference between plats and non is the non plats will wear and are a 30k interval plug. It blows me away to hear they did that. On the 3.5l all the coil packs are not easily accessable. I have yet to pull them out. but if i remember correctly the throttle body has to come off to gain access to #4 coil. If I were you I would pull one of the coils off thats easily accessable I think #1 is. Pull the plug out and see if its a plat or non plat. I am wondering if it might have been a pencil whip job and no real work was done.
NISTECH, you were right on with that last suspicion. Indeed, changing the plugs showed up on the invoice, but was never done. It was explained by the service advisor that it's a standard form, but they knew better than to do so. The more I thought about, the less it made sense for them to change them. Anyway, as always, thanks for the info.