CHAT-ROOM: Engine Oil & Filter
Kerrton, TrevorK, and I have hijacked another thread regarding engine oil talk. we all brought great info and i wanted to start a new thread for folks to chime in on, so all the info & views dont get lost.

Whats your schedule interval? (why?)
Whats your preferred oil? (why)
Conventional or Synthetic? (why)
DIY, Dealer, or Lube Shop?
Type of Filter? (why)
... and anything else you wanna chat about.

old sparks wrote:Replaced the factory fill and filter with Motomaster synthetic (made by SOPUS) and a Quaker State filter.

I cut the OEM filter open and saw that it used cheesy cardboard end caps. A few flecks of metal or casting sand caught in the filter media. Not sure about the oil, but I'm glad I changed the filter earlier than recommended.

funny you did that. your not alone. i too will NEVER use a nissan filter.



Side-by-side comparo of both filters (Purolator on the left, OEM on the right). The Purolator filter element is approx 2 1/2" tall with 50 pleats vs the OEM filter element which is approx 1 7/8" tall with only 41 pleats. More pleat area = better filtering ability.


(left)Purolator = metal framing. - (right)Nissan Filter = Cardboard Framing.


(left)Purolator = metal framing. - (right)Nissan Filter = Cardboard Framing.


(left)Purolator = anti drain back plunger. - (right)Nissan Filter = anti drain back plunger

It's not that the Nissan (and the widely criticized Fram ExtraGuard, aka "orange can of death") are bad filters, they're just terrible value for the price. A Purolator Classic filter is cheaper than an equivalent Fram ExtraGuard at WalMart and has the advantages of more filtering media, metal end caps, and a real separate bypass rather than a combination bypass valve and anti-drainback valve. The ADBV on both is still nitrile, which can become hard and brittle after extended exposure to hot engine oil, but this is generally not a concern except for extended oil change intervals. They also tend to seal worse than a silicone ADBV.

Fram's Ultra (formerly called XtendedGuard) filters are great filters. They have thick outer cans, wire-backed synthetic media (which is a depth-type media which captures contaminants within the media rather than cellulose media which just holds it on the surface), silicone anti-drainback valves, and metal end caps. These can go 10-15k miles easily, and are $9 and change at your local WalMart. See one cut open in this thread on Bob Is The Oil Guy; much discussion ensues in that thread if you'd like additional reading. I would not hesitate to run a Fram Ultra for two or three oil change intervals on my Pathfinder.

Another thing to consider when thinking about switching to a synthetic oil and/or filter: will you get a return on investment? If a synthetic oil and filter change costs twice as much as a conventional oil and normal good filter change, can you run it twice as long to justify the cost?

Do you run synthetic just because it's "better"? It may not be any better at all for shorter oil change intervals. Why bother running a synthetic for 5,000 miles when a conventional oil will perform just as well and with equal wear rates?

Here is an example of how capable conventional oil is today. This thread on Bob Is The Oil Guy is a used oil analysis catalog of an owner of a 2010 Ford F-150 FX4, with many UOAs to establish trends. He switched from Pennzoil Ultra to Mobil Super 5000 recently, and even with similar oil change intervals the wear is no more than it was with PU.

Towncivilian wrote:Do you run synthetic just because it's "better"? It may not be any better at all for shorter oil change intervals. Why bother running a synthetic for 5,000 miles when a conventional oil will perform just as well and with equal wear rates?

i agree 100%. i run conventional for 5k and then drain. i do all my own work, so it actually makes financial sense this way. ($20-$25 total)
i agree that conventional came a LONG way, and so did our engines. our engines dont strain oil the way the old engines used too.

if i had to go to a mechanic or dealer - i would do 10-12k/synth changes.

Whats your schedule interval? 3,000 miles
Whats your preferred oil? I've been using Mobil 1
Conventional or Synthetic? Synthetic.
DIY, Dealer, or Lube Shop? Dealer, but I only pay for the labor.
Type of Filter? Mobil 1 or Mobil 1 Extended Performance.

Any recommendations on what is a good interval to do my oil changes? I always buy the oil when it's on sale and includes the filter for free, so that's why a only pay for labor at the dealership. It's always a shocker when you take your car for a synthetic oil change to the stealership and the charged you almost $80 bucks

JMed wrote:Whats your schedule interval? 3,000 miles
Whats your preferred oil? I've been using Mobil 1
Conventional or Synthetic? Synthetic.
DIY, Dealer, or Lube Shop? Dealer, but I only pay for the labor.
Type of Filter? Mobil 1 or Mobil 1 Extended Performance.

Any recommendations on what is a good interval to do my oil changes? I always buy the oil when it's on sale and includes the filter for free, so that's why a only pay for labor at the dealership. It's always a shocker when you take your car for a synthetic oil change to the stealership and the charged you almost $80 bucks

3,000 miles for synthetic is silly. that oil can go easily 10,000miles. even todays conventional can go 5000 easy.
(extended train filters can go 10,000 as well. non extended drain filters can go 7500 in my opinion the most)

if i was you, id use that oil + extended drain filter every 10,000 miles.

I'm changing it at home during summer and at nearest shop during winter. I'm using full synt mobil 0w-30 and its compatible with 5w-30. it says change every 7.5k miles but im changing every 6k miles. Filter usually makes no difference for me since im changing it sooner anyway but trying to get the most expensive because the price difference about $2-3. Usually I get Fram 6x tough guard filters. Even at 6k miles it's pretty dark so I would change it even more often but getting too lazy. But anyway here's the video comparison of fram and toyota filters:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14by8s_k ... r_embedded#![/youtube]

Color of oil means nothing. Heat, types of additives, blow-by, and some other factors can impact the color of the oil. Just because an oil is dark doesn't necessarily mean it's full of contamination and must be changed out.

ImStricken wrote:3,000 miles for synthetic is silly. that oil can go easily 10,000miles. even todays conventional can go 5000 easy.
(extended train filters can go 10,000 as well. non extended drain filters can go 7500 in my opinion the most)

if i was you, id use that oil + extended drain filter every 10,000 miles.

Thanks for replying, I going to start doing that from now on

Towncivilian wrote:Color of oil means nothing. Heat, types of additives, blow-by, and some other factors can impact the color of the oil. Just because an oil is dark doesn't necessarily mean it's full of contamination and must be changed out.

+1

I am little confused. I am planning to use synthetic oil. I purchased 5 liters of 5W30 Castrol Edge with Synthec Power Technology for $35 plus tax (regular $45 plus tax). However, when I read the reviews, I understood that most people prefer to use 0W30 Castrol SPT, which is made in Germany (they say Castrol 5W30 is semi synthetic). 1 liter of that oil was $11 plus tax. I need 4.6 liters, so five bottles = $55 plus tax. do you think I should give 20 dollars more and buy that stuff? or do you think I am thinking too much, since this is just an oil (that is what my wife said )???

Qashqai wrote:I am little confused. I am planning to use synthetic oil. I purchased 5 liters of 5W30 Castrol Edge with Synthec Power Technology for $35 plus tax (regular $45 plus tax). However, when I read the reviews, I understood that most people prefer to use 0W30 Castrol SPT, which is made in Germany

Castrol Edge with Synthec Power Technology = full synthetic

do you think I should give 20 dollars more and buy that stuff?

i think you should take that $20 and buy your wife some flowers. i guarantee better results than buying 0W30 Castrol SPT LOL

ImStricken wrote:

You are crazy ImStricken....

philipa_240sx wrote:My preferences for oil:

- Castrol Syntec 0W30 (red label, made in Germany printed on back)- Mobil1 is ok, some Nissan VQ (V6) owners report increased valve train noise, but it seemed to work fine on the QR25DE in my Altima.

Ive ran mobil 1 in all my cars for years and I just switched my rogue over to It at 5k miles. It does seem to have some valve train noise when cold that I hadnt noticed before switching over.

I plan to change oil at 7500 intervals.

On a side note.....I have a 96 hardbody pickup auto with 245k miles that doesnt use any oil to speak of ......been running mobil 1 in the engine and tranny since 5k ......oil change intravals 10k with filter change every 5k.

Gone Rogue wrote:It does seem to have some valve train noise when cold that I hadnt noticed before switching over.

timing chain tensioner isnt getting enough oil pressure.
thinner oil = less oil pressure

For all Do-It-Yourselves that lives in USA and have an Advance Auto Parts near by, I stop by my local store and saw this:



That is a really good deal, I think the offer is valid from August 30th- September 26th.

NAPA also has all quarts of M1 on sale for $5.89 a quart, but the inclusion of the M1 filter with the AAP deal makes it a better deal.

i always get the advance auto deals. they are the best. i get the castol gtx 5w-30 with free filter for $19.99 and change it every 5,000 miles

Well went in for my first oil change today. I have tried for over a week to get an oil change. Brought it in last Friday and they said it would be 3-4 hours... but that Tuesday were their slow day. Ok that's fair, I didn't have an appointment. We never have to set an appointment for our Honda, but no biggie. Monday I call and set an appointment.... first available Friday! 4 days!!! I spoke to the service advisor and he's like 'yeah I know, but we just purchased the 15 acers behind us and plan on breaking ground in the next few months, and hiring at least 10 techs'

Anyway, they are still wanting you to bring it in at 3750, even though the salesman at two dealers told me for 2014 it is 5000 miles. Last Friday I was at 4700 miles and thought I would just be a bit early. Today I was at 5300 miles so a little late. Noticed after I left it said they put 5w30 in it. All in all pretty smooth, I will probably go syntehtic from now on, but this was 'on the house' since it was the first one.

The warmer weather has seemed to help my MPG as well currently at 1/2 a tank and trip computer showing 32.4

Speaking of oil changes the 2014 manual recommends 0w20 but says 5w30 can be used. Both my 2008 Rogue and 2013 Altima said to use 5w30. I wonder if anyone will use the suggested 0w20 which has to be like water.

mag318 wrote:Speaking of oil changes the 2014 manual recommends 0w20 but says 5w30 can be used. Both my 2008 Rogue and 2013 Altima said to use 5w30. I wonder if anyone will use the suggested 0w20 which has to be like water.

The only 0W20 I have seen is synthetic... I think that's how they are helping to get higher MPG's. In any case my 13 Accord calls for 0W20, my 08 Accord called for 5W20, and so did my 09 F150.

I used 0w20 in my 2012 Prius for more than 30000 miles. It was changed every 10000 miles and never used any noticeable amount between changes. I will use it in my Rogue and do not expect any issues. The oil I used was from NAPA and oil and filters normally cost about $23.00 for a change.

I wonder since the 2014 manual states you could use either viscosity if there's any advantage using the OW-20 as opposed to 5W-30?

mag318 wrote:I wonder since the 2014 manual states you could use either viscosity if there's any advantage using the OW-20 as opposed to 5W-30?

I would wonder the same thing. My guess would be that the 0W20 would yeild better MPG....if slightly. I don't recall any of my other cars in recent past stating you could use more than one viscosity.

mag318 wrote:I wonder since the 2014 manual states you could use either viscosity if there's any advantage using the OW-20 as opposed to 5W-30?

Cold weather starting, cold start lubrication and MPG. MPG is probably the biggest issue for Nissan.

I'm going to go with the same oil I used in my 2008 Rogue and my 2013 Altima when I do my first oil change, 5w-30 Mobil 1 Extended Performance. I do see more and more manufacturers going to the 0w-20 which may yield slightly increased mileage to their CAFE standard.

If at all possible, you should use 0W20 in your engine- that is what your engine was designed to use. Even if 5W30 does not damage your engine, the lower viscosity 0W20 will reduce parasitic losses, improving both power and fuel economy.

In fact Mobil 1's marketing claims around improved fuel efficiency are based solely on a reduction of viscosity, not anything specific to their oil.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... onomy.aspx

lne937s I spoke to my dealers service manager about what weight to use and he told me they use 5W30 just as in all previous year Rogues. He went on to say that as per the owners manual 5W30 is fine. I'll report back any changes in my MPG if there is any.

Mag318.

You should be fine using it in terms of protecting your engine under warranty. However, please be aware that most service centers use 5W30 as default-- they buy it in bulk, which makes it cheap and easy for them. Their selection has to do with it being the most popular grade of oil and what's best for them financially, not what's best for the engine in your car. However, as you will already be paying the premium for synthetic (and I assume not buying in bulk), using the manufacturer "recommended" 0W20 will not cost you more than the "alternative" 5W30.

In case other people are wondering what we are referring to, from the owner's manual:

•Genuine NISSAN engine oil or equivelant
• Engine oil with API Certification Mark
• Viscosity SAE 0W-20
•For further details, see “Engine oil and oil filter recommendations” in this
section.
•As an alternative to this recommended oil, SAE 5W-30 conventional petroleum
based oil may be used and meet all specifications and requirements
necessary to maintain the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

Based on industry research, you should see a ~2% better fuel economy with 0W20. You may not notice it, but 5W30, by nature, will make your fuel economy worse than the recommended 0W20.

I'm going to try both and see what happens with the mpg. 1'st oil change will be with the Mobil 1 5W-30, I use the Mobil 1 filter also. Then my 2'nd oil change I'll try the 0W-20. I buy my oil at Walmart in the 5 quart bottles for around $25. Speaking of mpg, my 2008 Rogue averaged 30 mpg highway at 70 mph. I replaced that vehicle with a 2013 Altima 3.5 SL and was astonished by the mileage I got with the bigger engine. At 70 mph I averaged 35.5 and if I dropped down to 65 I would get 39/40 mpg. The revised CVT must have a lot to do with that and I can only imagine what kind of mileage the 2.5 in the Altima achieved. So far my 2014 Rogue SL AWD is averaging 26/27 around town and 33 mpg at highway speeds and at 1500 miles on the odometer I don't consider it broken in yet. My Rogue still has that new vehicle aroma and to say that I'm happy with it would be a huge understatement.