Man 26/27 city driving... makes me think I should take mine to the dealer. I get ~16-22 city driving and that is driving it very conservatively. Been like this since I bought it. You live somewhere incredibly flat?

tsumeone wrote:Man 26/27 city driving... makes me think I should take mine to the dealer. I get ~16-22 city driving and that is driving it very conservatively. Been like this since I bought it. You live somewhere incredibly flat?

tsumeone, I live in western Illinois and yes it's flat here. I imagine if I still lived in Chicago with a lot of stop and go driving my mileage would be lower. Most of my driving is on county roads doing 55 mph and I'm sure that accounts for higher MPG. Next time I spend a day in Chicago I'll reset the MPG and see what I get.
I was in a local WalMart yesterday and see that Mobil 1 now has an extended performance 0W-20 oil, a 5 quart bottle was $26 and a 1 quart bottle was $7.98.

Went in for my first oil change at 2000 miles and after doing painstaking research I decided to go with the recommended 0W-20 instead of the 5W-30. Since my first oil change was suppose to be free I insisted on 0W-20 and watched my mechanic bring out a six pack of Mobil 1 instead of whatever their default oil is. It did indeed take 5 and 1/8 quarts and the mechanic told me they did some changes like possibly a larger oil pan. Anyway the engine feels even smoother than before and I'll keep track of my mileage to see how it progresses as the engine really breaks in.

Nissan's calculations are all wrong. The oil with filter change is 5-1/8 qt however, the amount in liters is 4.6 L. Which doesn't equal the same amount. 4.6 L is equivalent to 4-7/8 qt. So much for Nissan engineering they messed up the quantity conversion in the 2014 Rogue Owner's Manual. Those two amounts don't match. If it was indeed 5-1/8 qt that would equal to 4.85006 Liters. Lol, and engineers know what's best for the engines.

Mike that's an interesting observation. I just went into my garage to check my oil level and it was right between the 2 lines on the dipstick, so it wasn't overfilled.

mikess wrote:Nissan's calculations are all wrong. The oil with filter change is 5-1/8 qt however, the amount in liters is 4.6 L. Which doesn't equal the same amount. 4.6 L is equivalent to 4-7/8 qt. So much for Nissan engineering they messed up the quantity conversion in the 2014 Rogue Owner's Manual. Those two amounts don't match. If it was indeed 5-1/8 qt that would equal to 4.85006 Liters. Lol, and engineers know what's best for the engines.

As the Rogue is made in America, using an American-made engine, I wonder if the technical writers who wrote the manual (who tend not to be engineers) got the conversion to metric wrong. Looks like they just used 0.9 for the conversion and rounded.

mag318 wrote:Went in for my first oil change at 2000 miles and after doing painstaking research I decided to go with the recommended 0W-20 instead of the 5W-30. Since my first oil change was suppose to be free I insisted on 0W-20 and watched my mechanic bring out a six pack of Mobil 1 instead of whatever their default oil is. It did indeed take 5 and 1/8 quarts and the mechanic told me they did some changes like possibly a larger oil pan. Anyway the engine feels even smoother than before and I'll keep track of my mileage to see how it progresses as the engine really breaks in.

Interested in knowing how this goes for you. I hope to go to the 0W-20 next go around, I'm at 8800 miles, so about 1200 to go for the next change.

As the Rogue is made in America, using an American-made engine, I wonder if the technical writers who wrote the manual (who tend not to be engineers) got the conversion to metric wrong.

Made in 'Merica but undoubtedly engineered 100% in metric.

Sorry all, I hate to resurface a thread that has been dead for over a year, but this is for anyone who moved over to full synthetic. Do any of you do anything differently once you start getting up to higher mileage on your Rogue? If you switched to the higher detergent blend full synthetics early on, is there any concern about seal wear due to continued use of synthetics once the miles start getting up there? If so, any recommendations?

Cheers!
~MercuryAlpha

MercuryAlpha wrote:Sorry all, I hate to resurface a thread that has been dead for over a year, but this is for anyone who moved over to full synthetic. Do any of you do anything differently once you start getting up to higher mileage on your Rogue? If you switched to the higher detergent blend full synthetics early on, is there any concern about seal wear due to continued use of synthetics once the miles start getting up there? If so, any recommendations?

Cheers!
~MercuryAlpha

the higher mileage, the less likely i'd be using synth. id be using conventional- maybe even thicker blend (10w-30). your seals wont suffer from synth oil. they will leak because they are slightly worn and synth oil can fit between places conventional typical wont/cant.

Just got my oil changed and I asked them to do 0w20 synthetic. Got home and noticed they put 5w30 synthetic instead :/

Looking in the manual, it says they recommend 0w20 but as an alternative you can use 5w30 conventional motor oil. Since they put synthetic, does that affect the warranty of the car? Don't really care about the MPG difference myself but the warranty I do care about.

Using synthetic should allow for longer oil change intervals. My sticker says 5000 miles until the first service. I think rule of thumb with conventional oil is 3000 miles?

Changed mine yesterday with m1 0w-30. This is what I used in my 08 rogue. No problems with engine. Funny comments in here when you guys say recommendee oil is 5w30 but should use 0w20. By reading tags on m1 0w30 is for 5w30 and 0w20 is for 5w20 replacement. 0w20 recommended for most toyota and honda engines. Personally I dont think it matters too much.

therealroland wrote:Using synthetic should allow for longer oil change intervals. My sticker says 5000 miles until the first service. I think rule of thumb with conventional oil is 3000 miles?

Modern engines and conventional oil can safely be changed at 5k mile intervals, and modern engines with synthetic oil can safely be change at 7k miles. Changing your oil at 3k miles is a essentially a waste of your money. But if you can afford and want to change your oil at a 3k interval with either conventional or synthetic oil certainly do so.

The important thing is to monitor your vehicle's engine to ensure that it doesn't burn through quarts of oil during each change interval. The good news is the majority of 6 and 4 cylinder engines don't burn oil these days, whereas, it's more common for 8 cylinder engines to burn a quart or more of oil every 3k-5k miles requiring faster change intervals or the nessecity for the onwer to add a quart or more of oil between oil changes.

My dealership does a full synthetic oil change and filter for $41.33, including tax. I would be nuts to do this myself.

They used to use Mobile1, but now have switched to GULF 0W20 Synthetic-0W20G-T.

I'm doing the oil change every 5,000 miles. Any thoughts on the oil?
2014 Rogue SV 47,000 miles.

Thanks

CapeCodChips wrote:My dealership does a full synthetic oil change and filter for $41.33, including tax. I would be nuts to do this myself.

They used to use Mobile1, but now have switched to GULF 0W20 Synthetic-0W20G-T.

I'm doing the oil change every 5,000 miles. Any thoughts on the oil?
2014 Rogue SV 47,000 miles.

Thanks

you dont need synthetic. you could easily get away with conventional every 5k.
if you bought your own filter (~$5) and your own 5-30 oil (~$13), and did it yourself, your oil change would cost: $18.
if you insist on doing synth, then a jug of 5w-30 would cost you ($20) and the same $5 filter would bring you to $25. thats a total saving of $16.33 per oil change, over that of the dealers price.

i do about 30,000miles per year. i change my oil every 5k. so i change my oil 6 times per year. in 1 year i would save $97.98 by doing it myself. add that to the total cost of ownership, at the end of this vehicles life with you. after 5 years, thats $489.90 in total savings.

my system is this: conventional Mobile1 oil($13), every 5k. basic filter = $5 ($108 yearly on oil changes)

Thanks for your input 5.56!
I definitely see an increase of 2-3 mpg using the 0W20 over conventional.
I used to do everything myself, but for $15 I don't have to change my clothes twice and crawl under a jacked up SUV.
At the dealer they also do the mini inspection and a quick look at the undercarriage.
I could do 20 oil changes and not see a torn boot.

Went to Nissan for my first of two free oil changes this past week with a little over 2500 miles on the car. Service guy asked if I knew I should be coming in every 5k miles but I wanted to get the first one over with and that I was near my 6-month date. Took a long 2 1/2 hours to get it changed but when I got home, I read the receipt and it said they filled it with Mobil 5W-30 oil instead of the recommended 0W-20 in the manual. Does anyone know if the Rogue comes straight from the factory with 0W-20 oil?

I'll probably cash in my second free oil change at the end of the year but after that, I'm going to start changing the oil on my own and switch to synthetic so I know I'm getting 0W-20 oil. I'm having trouble looking for a compatible Mobil filter online though. Some sites (Amazon, O'Reiley's) say the M1-108 Mobil filter with fit while other sites (Mobil, Advance Auto Parts) say it won't. Does anyone know if the M1-108 will work with the 14-15 Rogue? Link here: http://www.amazon.com/Mobil-M1-108-Exte ... rds=M1-108

Guys, it's not a big deal if dealership used 5w30 for the first oil change. These are the same engines that were specified 5w30 oil in the 2013 model year. I think they just changed the oil recommendation because 0w20 provides better startup protection and also fuel economy as well, and all 0w20 oil is synthetic. And if you're changing the oil yourselves I would recommend getting the 0w20 Toyota genuine motor oil from the Toyota dealership, it's supposed to be a really good synthetic and you can get a 5 liter jug here in Canada for around 27 bucks and some change. I'm also using synthetic for my oil changes however, my first two oil changes were with conventional motor oil as it's better to use conventional for break in period, at least that's what I read on the BITOG forums.

I always change the oil myself, use M1 0W-30 full synthetic (purchased in 5QT jug at Walmart for $26) and use the PureOne oil filter ($7 from AdvanceAuto). The factory OCI is 5K miles and I change it at 4K~5K miles. I highly recommend replacing the oil drain bolt with the Fumoto Qwik-valve, makes oil changes far less "messy" and has a positive seal (even sell a "lock" for the paranoid).

Super easy to do for the average DIY person. Folks, quality oil and filters are very cheap insurance to ensure years of trouble-free engine life - Just Do It (sorry Nike).

whizkidtn wrote:I always change the oil myself, use M1 0W-30 full synthetic (purchased in 5QT jug at Walmart for $26) and use the PureOne oil filter ($7 from AdvanceAuto).

Which filter #? Depending on the source, I am finding different filter numbers that cross reference to the Nissan OEM oil filter #.
I am running PureOne PL14612 on my Honda 919, and it looks like maybe the same filter is OK for the 2015 Rogue?

Dealer did my 1st change for free but next one I am doing myself.
TIA.

I'm getting my first oil change next week at 6mos/3050 miles (We don't drive a lot). My last vehicle was a '13 Honda Accord which used the same 0W-20 synthetic blend oil as the Rogue but it had an oil life computer which calculated life based on driving conditions. They recommended annual changes minimum and when I had my first oil change at 1 year there was about 7K miles on the odo and there was still 35% oil life left.

It's a free change and I'm going to have the dealer check for 2 small problems which seem to be fairly common in these cars. I occasionally experience the rough idle described by others. If the passenger seat is unoccupied it's rough enough to cause the seat belt buckle to bang against the door frame. I also have a slight buzz in the steering wheel at around 1400 rpm when the tranny is in a high "gear" and the car is under light load, like going around 40 mph and gently accelerating or going up a small grade. I'm already suspicious of the dealer because the service writer who scheduled the check has warned me that I will have to replicate the symptoms to a mechanic. I can demo the vibration but not the idle since it"s only happened 2 or 3 times. They're a big volume dealership and if they claim that I'm the first person to report these things it will be my last dealings with them.

Lone Wolff wrote:

whizkidtn wrote:I always change the oil myself, use M1 0W-30 full synthetic (purchased in 5QT jug at Walmart for $26) and use the PureOne oil filter ($7 from AdvanceAuto).

Which filter #? Depending on the source, I am finding different filter numbers that cross reference to the Nissan OEM oil filter #.
I am running PureOne PL14612 on my Honda 919, and it looks like maybe the same filter is OK for the 2015 Rogue?

Dealer did my 1st change for free but next one I am doing myself.
TIA.

Yup, it's the PL14612.

a lot of talk on here about oil, and nothing about oil filters.
1. can your filter last the longer haul 7,000-15,000k? not all filters are built for extended drains you know.
2. do you know what your filter is built from? cardboard? staples? glue? rubber?
3. what climate do you live in? does your oil maintain the heat more so than people who drive in canada? heat destroys filters faster.

oil change intervals depend on:
type of oil used (conventional or synthetic)
driving style (aggressive or not)
highway or city** miles
climate: humid or not
climate: really hot or really cold
drive-train: awd or not (awd requires the engine to work harder)

**: if you sit in traffic = forget counting miles/months for your oil change intervals as "idle time" is to be used for your measurement. Your oil change intervals should adjust to the abuse of idling . if you drive with a heavy foot, your oil change interval needs to adjust (as well as your transmission fluid drain interval). dont forget the trans-axle fluid, and the rear differential fluid also need changing!



i have discussed this ad nauseam. merging with our oil change thread:

bump

WHere is the oil filter to the rogue? I went down there to look but couldn't find it.
Diagrams and pictures would be nice.

engineer20 wrote:WHere is the oil filter to the rogue? I went down there to look but couldn't find it.
Diagrams and pictures would be nice.

its on the passenger side, under the car. you can see it if you move the mud flap behind the right front tire.

• PS: do us a HUGE favor
  1. post in the appropriate threads.
  2. get accustomed to looking through the fsm first
  3. understanding all the rules on this thread: read-before-creating-new-thread-t593648.html

All,

I used syn oil for the first couple oil changes and the last one I had them use reg oil. Has anyone converted to regular oil?

Just curious.

My vehicle has 25K on it and so far has been very reliable.

Tom

mtbkr1030 wrote:All,

I used syn oil for the first couple oil changes and the last one I had them use reg oil. Has anyone converted to regular oil?

Just curious.

My vehicle has 25K on it and so far has been very reliable.

Tom

The number one forum on the internet for oil questions is; REDACTED!. Check it out and you will find plenty of examples where owners have switched between synthetic and conventional without any problems. The 2015 Rogue manual says 0W-20 synthetic or 5W-30 conventional can be used. I'm coming up on my first oil change for my 2015 Rogue and plan on having the dealer use the 5W-30. At a max of 5,000 miles on the oil change interval, there's no real advantage to the higher cost of synthetic.

mtbkr1030 wrote:All,

I used syn oil for the first couple oil changes and the last one I had them use reg oil. Has anyone converted to regular oil?

Just curious.

My vehicle has 25K on it and so far has been very reliable.

Tom

I SWITCH BETWEEN SEASONS. summer months i give it conventional 5w-30. winter months i switch to full synth 0w-30 to keep the oil really thin & fluid upon cold start-ups.