CHATROOM: CV Axle Boot Torn (passenger / right side)

[darylzero]

Yikes! What a nightmare! Beyond a nightmare. It would be one thing if it took you all that time, but at least got the job completed. Now the likelihood of what you describe is quite real. I was wondering if you live in a northern climate? When I did my daughter-in-law's Rogue things came apart A-OK, but we live in the south.

Please let us know how the rest of this turns out. I realize it is of no value, but I truly feel for you and the frustration level here. You are trying to do something yourself to save money, and a huge roadblock gets thrown up at you. That really sucks.

Thanks Cube.

Tried a MAP torch today and nothing. If heat doesn't work nothing else I can do. Have to try and put it back together so it can at least be put on a flatbed and towed away.

[ImStricken06]

Bro, is it really that badly damaged so that it cant be used?

You dont have the ability to remove that carrier bearing? These are known for this BS. Mine was the same. This car is a POS for cheap parts that fail early & sieze up.

My advise: dont give up. Maintain your whits. Apply plenty heat. It will eventually come out. Apply wax and oil to the hot parts, so the oil soaks inward to the bearing race

[darylzero]

Bro, is it really that badly damaged so that it cant be used?

You dont have the ability to remove that carrier bearing? These are known for this BS. Mine was the same. This car is a POS for cheap parts that fail early & sieze up.

My advise: dont give up. Maintain your whits. Apply plenty heat. It will eventually come out. Apply wax and oil to the hot parts, so the oil soaks inward to the bearing race

Didn't you have the same issue and couldn't get the carrier bearing out?

I can drive it to a mechanic, but the boot is torn apart. Man I wailed on that b**** for hours!! Used pry bars, pounded a chisel into it, almost a full bottle of pb blaster, heat, slide hammer. I cannot believe it didn't budge!

now I wonder if it's the bearing or if it's stuck in the trans?

I would usually not give up but I put 2 days into this and need my car for work.

[ImStricken06]

Didn't you have the same issue and couldn't get the carrier bearing out?

exact same problem. except i realized early on its seized in there, and didnt damage it. i instead kept the inner half-shaft put, and rebuild the axle using a new outer portion (see video below): its super easy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EacVpaleqEU

I can drive it to a mechanic, but the boot is torn apart. Man I wailed on that b**** for hours!! Used pry bars, pounded a chisel into it, almost a full bottle of pb blaster, heat, slide hammer. I cannot believe it didn't budge!

yea, i realized mine was in there for good. this is pretty common for many half-shaft carrier bearings. thats why i opted to not mess with it. i figured its fine, not wobbling, so it must be fine. i figured worst case scenario it would destroy itself, and that would make it easier to change. i kept the inner portion in the garage just in case.

now I wonder if it's the bearing or if it's stuck in the trans?

thats a possibility too. i've seen honda's have that problem. the C-clip can get stuck

I would usually not give up but I put 2 days into this and need my car for work.

i was lucky to use my old mans' car for a week, while awaiting the new lower control arm, hub bearing, sway bar link, etc

and to make matters worse, like 6 months later: the driver side tore. so i called a quits. i traded the POS in for 2016 Kia Sorento LX

[darylzero]

Update:

Found a shop near my parents house (that's where I work on my car since I live in the city) that was honest. Got me in right away and fixed it right up.

He said they had to use heat and an air hammer to get it out. Charged me $150 since the book time was 1.5 - 2hrs. Called other places as well and even with using my axle it was over $300. This one a-hole at Firestone got in a huff when I told him I had the axle already then told me the book time is just over 3 hrs and it would cost $350, I told him to f*** off.

Having all the correct tools is half the battle. I was using a chisel and pry bar and hitting those with a 3lb hammer, but when you are under a car on jack stands it's hard to get anything on those swings. If I had this on a lift I'm confident I could of got the job done.

For those of you doing this in the future I used NAPA part # NMD 945087. That is for the AWD version

[ImStricken06]

Ya man, this pos car is a total pain to work on after 50k. Glad its gone lol

[FL Cube]

Thanks for the final update. Was wondering how it would all shake out (if you would have to replace bracket or not). Now it is just a bad memory. It also will help others to be better prepared for what they might be getting into. Glad that you are finished now.

[protomok]

Hey guys,

My 09 Rogue has the exct same problem - torn front passenger side CV Axle boot. Check out this mess:


Could anyone confirm that the Napa part number for the FWD Rogue is 945079? Napa lists two part numbers for the 09 Rogue with the same name - 'Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - New' - 945079 and 945087 with almost no description

Based on darylzero's post above if 945087 is for AWD, I assume 945079 is for FWD?

I really hope the axle is not seized to the hub or transmission - I am a bit terrified from reading darylzero's and ImStricken's issues trying to get the CV axle off!

[ImStricken06]

Good luck, if you are doing it yourself. Odds are its also seized to the half-shaft carrier

[ImStricken06]

Mine was so seized to the half-shaft carrier, that i ended up removing only the outter portion and rebuilding the whole thing using half the new one, and half of my old one lol

[protomok]

Mine was so seized to the half-shaft carrier, that i ended up removing only the outter portion and rebuilding the whole thing using half the new one, and half of my old one lol

Yes I saw, thanks for posting those videos BTW! Rebuilding is my back up plan if the axle is seized.

[ImStricken06]

I would make a rebuild your only plan. This way you save on transmission fluid not leaking out when you yank out the half-shaft

[casperfun]

Same thing happened to my front passenger boot on my AWD. Saw this gooey mess on my driveway and blob of gunk on my axle.

Didn't want to deal with it so I dropped it off at the dealership.

A few quick hours later; definitely not all day, ...........seems like they called back right after I got home.

Cost around $300, speaking for myself only, WORTH IT to me.

I really wanted a new axle at that cost, but heck, just fix the leaking boot is fine with me.

Been ok ever since.

Only major repairs so far is a serpentine belt replacement a year ago, the leaking boot last month, and replace the rear brake pads and did brake flush last Thursday during state inspection at my dealership.

I never had to change my original brakes since it always pasted inspection, most likely it could of passed this last inspection but I did hear a slight squeal so I changed it for safety sakes. I am very light on my brakes kind of driver and only step hard when needed.

[ImStricken06]

check your driver side axles too. my driver side inner most boot went about 15,000 miles after the passenger side did. i called a quits on this car, and traded it in.

[darylzero]

Hey guys,

Based on darylzero's post above if 945087 is for AWD, I assume 945079 is for FWD?

I really hope the axle is not seized to the hub or transmission - I am a bit terrified from reading darylzero's and ImStricken's issues trying to get the CV axle off!

ImStricken and myself both live in the 'Rust Belt' so I'm pretty sure that was at least half the issue with ours.

If you live in a warm salt free climate you could be ok. Otherwise good luck man

[protomok]

Hey guys,

So I picked up a replacement Passenger side CV Axle for my 2WD 09 Rogue and am having some trouble removing the CV axle from the transmission, hopefully someone can help!

I have followed this youtube video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DcvTd1kCh-c up until the part where you remove the CV axle from the transmission (not included in video ). I followed all the steps, the only part I messed up is forgetting to mark the location of the 2 nuts on the steering knuckle (fml - will worry about this later).

I've tried looking at the FSM, i.e. page 20 of the FSM Fax.pdf doc in Right side removal:
~
Remove drive shaft from transaxle assembly.
• Use the drive shaft attachment [SST: KV40107500 ( — )] and a sliding hammer while inserting
tip of the drive shaft attachment between housing and transaxle assembly.
~

I have no idea what the above means? I need a special tool to disconnect the CV axle...OK but why does this 'KV40107500' part not exist online?

I have been naively pulling the CV axle as hard as I can trying to disconnect it from the transmission with no luck I must be missing something here...

Any ideas?

Thanks

[darylzero]

It should just pop out. Use a pry bar to "pop" it out of the trans. There is a c clip that holds it in place so you just have to keep turning the axle and keeping trying to pry it out until it lines up and comes out.
Here is a picture I just googled using the pry bar.

[ImStricken06]

mine and others' axles were seized. i highly suggest you follow my video to rebuild using a new one & what you have stuck inside (half-shaft)

[tbell]

Went to have oil changed and they told me my passenger side axle was leaking and I needed a new one. Agreed on price and they changed it, on ride home all my warning lights on, abs, awd on and the right side was vibrating, so I went back. He said something was covering the sensors and everything was fine, but he did feel the wobbling on the right hand side. Said to come back following day he needed to check other things out. I brought it back, he checked it again and said that everything was on right so he thinks the part that he got was for a fwd not an awd. Is that possible? Can you install a fwd axle on a awd? One is longer than the other one. He told me to come back a week later and he would order the right part and install it, I came and waited for him for an hour and he never showed up. what should I do now.

[FL Cube]

As you noted, the FWD and AWD axles are different lengths. I never realized how close until I just researched it. Right side, FWD, 37 29/32 inches; Right side AWD, 38 1/8 inches. Left side FWD, 26 1/4 inches; Left side AWD, 26 11/32 inches. I can now understand how an incorrect axle might "nearly" fit but not be quite right.
You did not say what type of business did the work (chain or local place), but someone needs to take responsibility and get you the correct axle. I am a little surprised you were able to drive it for a week. Let us know what happens.

[oomgloff2]

Totally ran into this crap on my wifes '08 rogue right now. I removed the bracket holding the passenger axle and carrier bearing together, and then put onto work bench and put screws into the wooden work bench in the bolt holes of the bracket to keep from sliding when pounding the bearing out, then wd-40, some chiseling on the bearing, some propane torch, over and over then it came out and I cleaned up the carrier hole with sand cloth and will probably use anti seize when I put a new one in just in case I get to do this again sometime.

[Duess]

Can definitely add me to the list of individuals having issues with the passenger side CV Axle being stuck. My next adventure is going to be like the FSM states and remove the support bearing bracket. Lying on the cold wet ground with the Rogue on jack stands to accomplish this is not going to be easy.
Damn you 2011 AWD Nissan Rogue's

[rowlands57]

2011 AWD front inner CV boot was torn. Luckily I caught it in very early days doing an oil change and noticed the issue. My shop was able to just replace the torn boot with an OEM replacment from Nissan by breaking the axle apart at that joint, removing the CV bearing and fitting the new boot while it was all still on the car. If it had gone longer the CV bearing likely would have been toast necessitating the removal and replacement of the entire axle.

[Dosmastr]

Is this a bad axle?

https://youtu.be/5cddXyoXn9c?si=edEYmfOr3NROiY_d


This sounds a lot worse than what I see described in this thread.

It got bad fast, from fine to this in less than 3 days and less than 50 miles.

In another car I had an axle fail while driving it and it wasn't this loud (and also didn't keep moving under it's own power!)

[VStar650CL]

If it isn't an axle then there are a couple other things it can be, depending whether it changes much with steering.
1) Wheel bearing on the verge of coming apart. This will change markedly with steering. If it's that far gone, simply jacking and shaking the wheel will probably show it up.
2) Bad transfer case. The xfers on Rogues are siamesed onto the passenger side of the transmission and spin any time the front axles do. This will make noise independent of steering input (so will an inner CV joint or right side axle carrier bearing). The only good way to diagnose it is a stethoscope with the front end jacked.
3) Bad front u-joint. There's no disconnection of the xfer or driveshaft on AWD. Like the xfer, the driveshaft spins any time the front wheels do. A joint that's bad enough to clatter like that is probably coming apart, so chances are it will move all over the place with minimal shaking by hand. Like the xfer, this will also make noise independent of steering.

[Dosmastr]

Wifie says she accelerated and as she made a left turn the was a crack \ snap, and then it turned into a rock tumbler.
Some grease globs are around the CV on the driver's side, but as much as it clunks I don't understand how I can't move the shaft with my hand.

This was a three weeks ago
https://youtube.com/shorts/ur8e7wTiUGk? ... PGhq17GR5o

Just a squeak while giving it power.
It's always had a little vibration under hard acceleration, I read someplace that was just a rogue thing. But it did get worse than normal on Saturday.
Does transfer case have it's own fluid?
I changed trans fluid with genuine nissan at 120k

[VStar650CL]

Yes, the transfer has its own fluid. On a gen1 or gen2 it's GL-5 80W90, 3/4 pint.

[Dosmastr]

It does sound like a video I found where the rear drive shaft had failed. But that axle also looks bad ... Ugh.
Headed over now

[Dosmastr]

So had the driver side up, spinning the wheel and notice something is causing the exhaust flex pipe to deflect like an inch as I spin it.
It's the rear drive shaft.

Now question is to get it home to work on it can I remove the rear portion or will that allow bad things to happen to the rear diff?

Also all the listings on rockauto have different lengths?

[VStar650CL]

You can just pull it. It just makes the car FWD, no harm done.