CHATROOM: CV Axle Boot Torn (passenger / right side)

[FL Cube]

Search did not reveal this. My daughter-in-law has a 2008 AWD Rogue. I am replacing both front axles (bad boots). The axles did not come with ABS reluctor rings like other Nissans that I have done in the family. Thinking I had to buy them separately, I cannot find a source for them, nor could I find any photo that showed a Rogue axle with them. An obscure reference remarked that the bearing is utilized by the ABS sensor. Is this accurate? I am trying to avoid surprises as I have limited access to this vehicle. Thank you.

[ImStricken06]

they are in the hub. just take a look where the actual ABS sensor sits.

are you subscribed to my youtube channel? if not - you should be. i just did an axle in my car. watch the torture i went through. you can learn a lot.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLc1KATRpGc[/youtube]

[FL Cube]

Thank you. Just understanding the sensor portion is very helpful. At least I know the axles are OK as is. And yes, they are AWD axles so the length should be proper. I watched with great interest your "Murphy's Law" situation where a particular task mushrooms into hours and hours of unexpected obtacles. My intention is to not attempt this job until I am able to watch your future videos and hopefully have a complete understanding as to what I will be getting into rather than learning on my own. Very helpful. Thank you for doing the video.

[ImStricken06]

here is a little list i made for you:
1. if you are already doing the axles, you might as well add in new hubs. they are only like $45/each and take an additional 15minutes per side. you are already that far in; why risk having to come back? believe me it makes sense. thats how i am - if i am venturing into an area, i replace as much as i can afford so that i never have to come back(unless its to re-torque some nuts/bolts). [i did this. search my youtube channel. its one of the recent videos]

2. yet again, if you are already this far in - you might as well replace the lower control arms. the ball joints and bushings are KNOWN for going on all cars. why risk having to come back? they too are about $45 each [i did this as well during the axle job. just didnt get to the video yet]

3. you can put off the sway bar stabilizer links(~$14) & outer steering links(~$20) but only for so long. my car jst hit 94k, and the rubber boots on the joints are dry rotted and cracking. i probably have less than 12 months before they are making noise. you dont need to mess with the axle or hub so much on this job. its pretty easy. but you dont want to hear anything complaining if in 6 months her links give out (totally unrelated to you) and somehow you get blamed for it; because you were the last one in that area. plus, its one less thing to have to yet again embark on. thats how i see it.



tools needed:
impact, or some serious muscle to remove certain bolts. i committed a few years about and started the Impact Tool collection and its been a serious life saver. Milwaukee makes the best stuff on the market
torque wrench
sockets (deep and normal) (from 10mm to almost 32)
open ended wrenches (from 10mm to almost 32)
pb blaster. lots of it
brake cleaning spray. lots of it
rags
rubber gloves
breaker bars, crow bars, and tile cutters(to crimp the boot clamps if needed)
jack stands
torch - just have it. you MIGHT need it
crow bar
mallet, hammers, dead-blows, and 1--4 pound sledges
drain pans
- for anything else, reference my videos (my head is not working well lol)

[FL Cube]

Thanks for the advice. I will seriously consider that and mention this to my son/daughter-in-law as their Rogue just passed the 95,000 mile mark. I agree that if you are in there already, it might be good to go further. We'll see. I did watch your hub video yesterday. Just so you know, I did all four front bearings on a 2000 and 2001 Maxima. They are not just a four bolt replacement deal. They are pressed in which gets far more complicated. At least Rogues allow for a bolt in situation. Thank you for taking the time to expand so much on this circumstance. By the way, I did obtain new oil seals for where the axles fit into the transmission. Another issue where it matters if you have AWD or FWD only. One side is the same on both. The other uses different ones. Details, details!

[JMed]

ImStricken06, so me and my buddies did both axles and sway bar links yesterday on my Rogue. But now I see I have a pool of transmission oil by my car. Does that mean that something might be loose?

[ImStricken06]

ImStricken06, so me and my buddies did both axles and sway bar links yesterday on my Rogue. But now I see I have a pool of transmission oil by my car. Does that mean that something might be loose?

When you pull whole axles out, transmission fluid will spill too. Its normal. Just add some.

How is it riding?
Why did you do both axles?
How easily did they come out?

[JMed]

I added some more after everything was put back together, but it's been leaking even after.

It's feels a lot better now. I did both because the passenger side it's been bad for a while and I'm the kinda person that if I replaced one, I had to do the other one just in case.

The passenger side gave us some problems, it came out in two pieces. And the part closer to the transmission was stuck to the bracket that holds it, so we had to also removed the bracket and use penetrating oil, a torch, and hammer it out without damaging the bracket.

[ImStricken06]

I'm the kinda person that if I replaced one, I had to do the other one just in case.

same here lol

The passenger side gave us some problems, it came out in two pieces. And the part closer to the transmission was stuck to the bracket that holds it, so we had to also removed the bracket and use penetrating oil, a torch, and hammer it out without damaging the bracket.

YUP! thats the same problem i had. i ended up leaving the stuck part, and rebuilding it with a new outer shaft

[FL Cube]

Hey, not long ago I did change both axles on a Rogue ALL WHEEL DRIVE model as the passenger side inner boot was torn AND a there was a noise at different times. I researched a lot in advance to avoid problems included Imstricken06's videos he had up to that date. At first I did just the passenger side axle, but afterwards there was still a terrible noise. Yep, needed a new hub bearing. too. Then came back and did the driver's side axle and both hub bearings along with the tie rod ends for good measure.

Two things for others to be aware of: All Wheel Drive axles are NOT the same as just front wheel drive ones. The lengths are different, so, be aware. They are harder to find. Two, and I got zapped on this, I wanted to do the job fully so I wanted to change the transmission seals where the axle goes in (and it sounds like this is the issue JMed is having). My parts store web site says that they would be National seals 710632 and 710634. OK, I even went to the National catalog to confirm. They agree.

Yet, BOTH are slightly too large to fit in the opening. I freaked out a little as when I popped out the passenger side as I wasn't overly careful about it. When I saw they were different sizes, I then had no choice but re-install the old one and pray it did not leak. It didn't. Lucky I did not damage it.

When I did the driver's side, I checked the seal first this time. Also a bit too large. ???
I wrote to National about this. They claim these are the right numbers for AWD. Obviously something is wrong. Nothing leaks but the point is, it might be best for JMed to order the seals directly from a Nissan dealer to get the correct ones. Going through all the effort to get the axle out only to find you have the improper seal is a supreme example of Murphy's Law.

[JMed]

Before I bought both axles I did some research and I email Summit and they send me the information I needed. I bought Cardone 66-6287 and Cardone 66-6285, which are the ones for the AWD version.

My friends lifted the car and checked and it's just like FL Cube said, the problem is the seal got damaged so it needs to be replaced. Plus, I need to replace all the oil it leaked so at $20.99 a quart at my local dealer. This job got a bit more pricey than expected, LOL

[FL Cube]

Since you have the AWD version as my daughter-in-law does, please don't let anyone sell you those National seal part numbers I told you about. You will really be dead in the water then. Sorry you have extra work to go through now. So frustrating. Please provide an update later on if you feel like doing so. I would like to know how it works out for you.

[JMed]

Does anyone knows the part number for that seal? I've been looking around for that number but no luck, I wanna call the dealer and order the part.

[FL Cube]

Most dealers will ask for your Vehicle Identification Number before ordering anything anyway to make certain you are getting the correct thing. It would best to go to the dealer armed with that and specify the AWD transmission and which side you need. Let them find the correct one. Sometimes part numbers are updated so they might have go through the search anyway. Just my view as I have gone through this before.

[darylzero]

From this pic the Right hand seal is Part #38342P



****************************************

Left Side Part # 38342Q

[JMed]

I'll do that then, thanks. That way I can go ahead and get that CVT fluid

[dave08902]

My boot also ripped in the exact same spot as ImStricken06, I think that this is a design problem with Nissan. I felt inside the boot and I didn't feel any sand or dirt so I opted to replace the boot. Got new boot for 15 dollars and following the FSM it said to remove the outer CV Joint from shaft then remove inner boot. My CV shaft was also frozen in the hub and I used a three jaw puller and it came out. I disconnected the control arm from the frame so I wouldn't mess with the camber on the strut. Then I realized that I could replace the boots much easier. All I did was cut the straps on the inner boot and slid it open, then I removed retaining clip # 39735 and I was able to separate it from the intermediate shaft. Now I had the half shaft on the work bench. I then removed the c clip # 39734 and removed the propeller bearing using a soft mallet. Be careful as the three bearings can come off. With the propeller bearing removed now you can slide off the ripped boot off the shaft and install the new one. If the outer boot has ripped you can remove inner boot and then side off outer boot without even removing CV joint from hub. What is good about this method is you don't pull anything out of the transmission and is quick and easy. The entire job took me 45 minutes and 15 dollars for a replacement boot.

[ImStricken06]

My boot also ripped in the exact same spot as ImStricken06, I think that this is a design problem with Nissan. I felt inside the boot and I didn't feel any sand or dirt so I opted to replace the boot. Got new boot for 15 dollars and following the FSM it said to remove the outer CV Joint from shaft then remove inner boot. My CV shaft was also frozen in the hub and I used a three jaw puller and it came out. I disconnected the control arm from the frame so I wouldn't mess with the camber on the strut. Then I realized that I could replace the boots much easier. All I did was cut the straps on the inner boot and slid it open, then I removed retaining clip # 39735 and I was able to separate it from the intermediate shaft. Now I had the half shaft on the work bench. I then removed the c clip # 39734 and removed the propeller bearing using a soft mallet. Be careful as the three bearings can come off. With the propeller bearing removed now you can slide off the ripped boot off the shaft and install the new one. If the outer boot has ripped you can remove inner boot and then side off outer boot without even removing CV joint from hub. What is good about this method is you don't pull anything out of the transmission and is quick and easy. The entire job took me 45 minutes and 15 dollars for a replacement boot.

thats how my job was supposed to go. but my axle was seized into the hub lol. after torching it, burning the hub, and realizing i might as well replace:
half axle(due to burned axle-nut threads), hub bearing, lower control arm, tie-rods, sway bar link = it ended up taking way to many days waiting on the parts, and hours to rebuild the whole knee. the only thing old left, is the strut. the whole right side is new. and since i am anal, i went ahead and did the left side sway bar link, tie-rod, and am thinking about doing the control arm as well.

[mpattdu]

Well, it looks like I get to join this sorry club. Was changing the oil this past weekend and discovered a goopy mess when I went to take off the oil filter. I think this is the best shot I got of it.

I'm going to watch those how-to videos tonight and see if I want to tackle this on my own. Thanks for the great resources here!

[ImStricken06]

i got your back buddy. i went into the garage and filmed you a quick video. odds are you will need it, if you decide to change the cv-axle.
odds are half of it will be seized in the carrier/transmission.

im editing it right now. give me a few

[ImStricken06]

[kots1]

ImStricken06: excellent video. I didn't know that it can be disassembled relatively easily versus wrestling and taking off the whole axle just to replace the boot. It looks like both boots can be replaced with this method. My tear is on the boot closest to the wheel hub side. Thank you for sharing!

[mpattdu]

Finally have a chance to post an update after finishing this job in November. The videos were tremendously helpful so a huge thanks to ImStricken06!

I was able to get away with just replacing the boot; replacement from NAPA for about $15. Luckily, no problem getting the axle out of the hub. Since I had everything taken apart I went ahead and replaced the tie rod ends and the sway bar links on both the passenger and then driver's side. Had to use heat on the tie rod end adjustment bolts, though. The biggest problem for me was actually the top sway bar link bolt. I got it broken loose but then it would just spin in the boot on the back side and there is not a lot a clearance to get another wrench back there to hold it in place. I ended up cutting it off. Had the same problem on the driver's side as well. All the work really screwed up the alignment but I was planning to buy new tires this fall anyway, so had those ordered and waiting at a shop nearby to have mounted and then have alignment done as soon as I finished the work on the driver's side.

[ImStricken06]

Finally have a chance to post an update after finishing this job in November. The videos were tremendously helpful so a huge thanks to ImStricken06!

I was able to get away with just replacing the boot; replacement from NAPA for about $15. Luckily, no problem getting the axle out of the hub. Since I had everything taken apart I went ahead and replaced the tie rod ends and the sway bar links on both the passenger and then driver's side. Had to use heat on the tie rod end adjustment bolts, though. The biggest problem for me was actually the top sway bar link bolt. I got it broken loose but then it would just spin in the boot on the back side and there is not a lot a clearance to get another wrench back there to hold it in place. I ended up cutting it off. Had the same problem on the driver's side as well. All the work really screwed up the alignment but I was planning to buy new tires this fall anyway, so had those ordered and waiting at a shop nearby to have mounted and then have alignment done as soon as I finished the work on the driver's side.

good work! usually heat works well on stuck nuts

[darylzero]

For the people who replaced a front right cv half shaft what part/ part#/ model# did you use?

I want to make sure I get one that fits.
thanks

[ImStricken06]

For the people who replaced a front right cv half shaft what part/ part#/ model# did you use?

I want to make sure I get one that fits.
thanks

looks like you're joining this badnwagon as well? lol i feel bad for you bro.

it all depends if you have the awd or fwd. many stores and shops cant tell the difference between the two. one is short, and one is longer. if memory serves me right, its the longer one for AWD.

[darylzero]

For the people who replaced a front right cv half shaft what part/ part#/ model# did you use?

I want to make sure I get one that fits.
thanks

looks like you're joining this badnwagon as well? lol i feel bad for you bro.

it all depends if you have the awd or fwd. many stores and shops cant tell the difference between the two. one is short, and one is longer. if memory serves me right, its the longer one for AWD.

Yep noticed it on my last oil change. Wasn't horrible, but it ripped and there was some grease spread around.

I just don't want to get one from NAPA and tear everything apart then the damn thing is an inch too short. guess i'll take my chances

[ImStricken06]

i bought a reman'd one from the store, and used the stuck inner portion to rebuild with the outer portion from the new one. i also bought a used OEM one online, just in case the store bought one was wrong. funny enough, they came in on the same day, so i had something to compare to. i compared my old one, the used 'new' one, and the reman'd "new" one. all 3 were the same. so i simply rebuild my own from the inner portion of my old one, and the outer portion of the new one. it worked like a charm. so then i cleaned, listed, and sold the used one i bought from online, on ebay and even made a profit on it LOL

dont forget to check my channel out for clips.

also, if you;re in there - you might as well change the hub & LCA. it was like an extra $75/each
(i ended up changing, R lower control arm, 2 sway bar links, 2 tie-rods, R hub bearing, = and then traded in the car 6 months later LOL)

[darylzero]

This f*** car!! The bearing must be seized on mine as well. The first part of the cv shaft came out. The second half won't f*** budge!
I was at this s*** all day, used a pry bar to try and get the carrier bearing part out,no joy. Then went to autozone and got a slide hammer and used that b**** for 2 hours!!!!! Nothing.
f*** this car.
Talked to a nissan tech and they said this happens all the time with Murano's. Their answer was to take off the whole bracket that holds it on.

I don't know what I'm going to do now, I don't think I can rebuild it because I was beating the hell out of that thing.

So now I have a car that can't be moved and will probably have to pay for a f*** tow then have a mechanic tell me I will need to get that bracket, whatever part # that is. This is going to end up costing a ton. f*** you Nissan

[FL Cube]

Yikes! What a nightmare! Beyond a nightmare. It would be one thing if it took you all that time, but at least got the job completed. Now the likelihood of what you describe is quite real. I was wondering if you live in a northern climate? When I did my daughter-in-law's Rogue things came apart A-OK, but we live in the south.

Please let us know how the rest of this turns out. I realize it is of no value, but I truly feel for you and the frustration level here. You are trying to do something yourself to save money, and a huge roadblock gets thrown up at you. That really sucks.