CHATROOM: CV Axle Boot Torn (passenger / right side)

[darylzero]

Thanks for the response. I have a 2008 Nissan Rogue, SL. But, it is 4 cyl. It is 2WD. However, I have a button that I can turn-on to make it 4WD. I went to precision auto. They told me that there are no other cheaper part and that they have to get it from the dealer for $850. They said, if it was any other Nissan model, it would have been a lot cheaper. Should I buy the one that is specific for AWD ? Let me take a picture of my broken axle and upload it later today.

Here is the part you need from the dealer.

This is a Nissan dealership.
http://www.everythingnissan.com/2008-Ni ... /40799.htm

As you can see they are lying to you and marking up the price considerably.

[t35t3r]

I performed a search on all the possible post names and could not find it so here goes. My passenger side CV Axle Inner boot has been blown for a bit on my 2008 Nissan Rogue SL AWD so I took some time and ordered both the driver and the passenger side half shaft assemblies on Rockauto and attempted to replace them. After a couple hours of work, I finally got the Axle off and to my horror, the intermediate (inner) shaft on on my new part is about an inch short so I went and removed the Driver side, same deal plus inner shaft was a totally different build and length. Also, I did attempt to mount them and they did not fit. naturally, I thought they sent me the wrong part so I hit all the local stores in scramble mode with a car on a lift waiting. Oreilly's, pep boys and Autozone all have the part I ordered in stock as a replacement part. Went over the nissan and they used my VIN and came up with a 39100JM10A and a price of $690.81 and some choice words about having alot of issues with CD Axle part numbers. Even ebay has it for 500. Does anyone know of a fix or of a substitute? If this is what I'm stuck with, I'm thinking of getting rid of my rogue :-(

[ImStricken06]

I performed a search on all the possible post names and could not find it so here goes. My passenger side CV Axle Inner boot has been blown for a bit on my 2008 Nissan Rogue SL AWD so I took some time and ordered both the driver and the passenger side half shaft assemblies on Rockauto and attempted to replace them. After a couple hours of work, I finally got the Axle off and to my horror, the intermediate (inner) shaft on on my new part is about an inch short so I went and removed the Driver side, same deal plus inner shaft was a totally different build and length. Also, I did attempt to mount them and they did not fit. naturally, I thought they sent me the wrong part so I hit all the local stores in scramble mode with a car on a lift waiting. Oreilly's, pep boys and Autozone all have the part I ordered in stock as a replacement part. Went over the nissan and they used my VIN and came up with a 39100JM10A and a price of $690.81 and some choice words about having alot of issues with CD Axle part numbers. Even ebay has it for 500. Does anyone know of a fix or of a substitute? If this is what I'm stuck with, I'm thinking of getting rid of my rogue :-(

i serached that part number you listed and i got cv joints on ebay for under $105/each
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CV-Axle-Shaft-F ... a5&vxp=mtr

[elmo14226]

You can both axles from the same ebay sell for $180

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CV-Axle-Shafts- ... 49&vxp=mtr

[t35t3r]

Recently reinstalled the passenger CV axle. After some driving, I started hearing a noise, like metal grinding intermittent. In the video there are two examples. In the first 5 seconds is the milder higher pitched sound, in the last 5 is the louder scarier sound. Does not happen on neutral and seems to go away at higher speeds. It is louder out my passenger window even while sitting in the driver seat with both windows open which leads me to believe its not the cvt transmission but just in case, I checked fluid level the right way (warm up, parking brake, cycle gears, check fluid with car running, etc) any help would be appreciated.
Grinding Noise: http://youtu.be/vgYWCDCgXX4

[t35t3r]

Thanks!

[ImStricken06]

dude dont double post. you already have a thread open regarding your cv-joint problems. moving.

[kots1]

do u have a side-by-side pic of the replacement part and your orig axle? you might get a better response if you provide pics.

I am also thinking about replacing my CV axle myself. My CV inner boot is showing some leaks. AdvanceAuto has the whole axle assembly for cheap.

Also, when you said you took out the driver side axle as well to compare, did you do it at the same time as the passenger? From what I have read, taking out both at the same time risks damaging your alignment. Did you have that sound prior to removal or just right after your reinstall everything back?

[SDrogue]

Hello all, long time lurker, first time poster.

I am in the process of replacing my passenger side CV axle on my 2008 SL awd. I cannot for the life of me get the axle out of the transmission. I have rented a slide hammer with axle attachment and can't get it to budge. I am perplexed. I soaked the inner bearing mount with PB blaster several times with no luck. The real kicker is that if I can't get it out, I will have to get the car towed to a shop because before renting the puller, I manually pulled the axle and inadvertently pulled apart the inner cv joint. Putting everything back and driving it is not an option.

I have been referencing the factory service manual and followed it to a tee. There aren't any retainers holding the axle are there? I removed the two bolts near the bearing and associated plate.

For reference, this car only has ~52,000 miles and the transmission was replaced at 23,000 miles. To me it seems that the bearing is seized inside the mount.

Any ideas?

[ImStricken06]

check for pins/detents holding the axle on

[SDrogue]

Are there supposed to be some?? I looked and couldn't see any obvious ones.

[ImStricken06]

not according to the manual.

Remove drive shaft from wheel hub and bearing assembly.
13. Remove boot bands, and then remove boot from joint sub-
assembly.
14. Screw a drive shaft puller (A) into joint sub-assembly screw part
to a length of 30 mm (1.18 in) or more. Support drive shaft with
one hand and pull out joint sub-assembly with a sliding hammer
(B) from shaft


make sure you are really using that sliding hammer. sometimes that retainer ring might get jammed up a little. try yanking while at an angle.

[SDrogue]

Well I did some further reading and it doesn't look like I can get the entire passenger axle out without removing the bearing bracket. I bought an entire axle from rockauto and thought maybe I could use the OEM inner axle and the rockauto outer. When I got the OEM one out and compared it to the rockauto one, the rockauto one was 2+ inches longer....... This irks me as I doubt I can now return it as I disassembled the new one and cut the band clamp. There goes $67.

So I put the car back together with all of the original parts and am back to square one. I think I am going to rebuild the oem axle with the rockauto boot as the OEM spider assembly looked in good shape. It hadn't been ran dry and I put some more grease in to buy myself some more time.

To top this all off, I also was going to change my OEM serpentine belt and put on a new gatorback belt but couldn't get it on. Struggled with it before comparing it to the OEM one and it is just a little shorter..

Sigh... it's been a trying weekend. At least the car runs and drives so I don't have to get it towed.

[ImStricken06]

Well I did some further reading and it doesn't look like I can get the entire passenger axle out without removing the bearing bracket. I bought an entire axle from rockauto and thought maybe I could use the OEM inner axle and the rockauto outer. When I got the OEM one out and compared it to the rockauto one, the rockauto one was 2+ inches longer....... This irks me as I doubt I can now return it as I disassembled the new one and cut the band clamp. There goes $67.

So I put the car back together with all of the original parts and am back to square one. I think I am going to rebuild the oem axle with the rockauto boot as the OEM spider assembly looked in good shape. It hadn't been ran dry and I put some more grease in to buy myself some more time.

To top this all off, I also was going to change my OEM serpentine belt and put on a new gatorback belt but couldn't get it on. Struggled with it before comparing it to the OEM one and it is just a little shorter..

Sigh... it's been a trying weekend. At least the car runs and drives so I don't have to get it towed.

thats a common issue: having things shorter or longer than the OEM spec. computer softwares dont always get the exact specs, before they match/mate certain parts to certain vehicles. some think that just because we share things with the altima and sentra, that must mean everything is the same: WRONG.

the belt has been a documented thing on here.

[buckshot60]

I as well need to replace passenger side CV joint, it come apart at the boot, the boot split and oil came out so I removed the first section of that axle the one that goes in the wheel bearing, the second half of the axle where the carrier baring is, the bearing won't release. It has seized up, I have pried and beat, is there a tool to push that bearing out? Any suggestions?

[buckshot60]

have to replace cv joint it will not release where axle carrier bearing is I have beat an pry it will not give is there any suggestions or a tool to push bearing out

[kots1]

I as well need to replace passenger side CV joint, it come apart at the boot, the boot split and oil came out so I removed the first section of that axle the one that goes in the wheel bearing, the second half of the axle where the carrier baring is, the bearing won't release. It has seized up, I have pried and beat, is there a tool to push that bearing out? Any suggestions?

From what I've seen from other DIY videos, some cars have those snap rings that you need to release first. Don't force it if it doesn't budge with the pry bar. I don't think that it requires a lot of force.

I didn't pursue replacing mine. I caught the leak early on and just did a ghetto-fix. Shoe-goo around the seams where the rubber meets the steel. It created a nice tough but flexible shell to stop all the leaks. Works great since then. For good measure, I also shoe-gooed the other side as well as preventive measure.

[TrevorK]

I as well need to replace passenger side CV joint, it come apart at the boot, the boot split and oil came out so I removed the first section of that axle the one that goes in the wheel bearing, the second half of the axle where the carrier baring is, the bearing won't release. It has seized up, I have pried and beat, is there a tool to push that bearing out? Any suggestions?

Have you looked at the factory service manual? I think what you are missing is that they remove it with a sliding hammer, as it sounds like you are on step 14:
12. Remove drive shaft from wheel hub and bearing assembly.
13. Remove boot bands, and then remove boot from joint subassembly.
14. Screw a drive shaft puller (A) into joint sub-assembly screw part
to a length of 30 mm (1.18 in) or more. Support drive shaft with
one hand and pull out joint sub-assembly with a sliding hammer
(B) from shaft.
CAUTION:
• Align a sliding hammer and drive shaft and remove them
by pulling firmly and uniformly.
• If joint sub-assembly cannot be pulled out, try after
removing drive shaft from vehicle.
15. Remove circular clip (1) from shaft.
16. Remove boot from shaft.
17. Clean the old grease on joint sub-assembly with paper waste.

[ImStricken06]

do you mean it will not come out of the hub? post a pic

did you try heat? penetrating oil? etc?

[buckshot60]

thanks anyway ImStricken06 I got it no not hum it was carrier bearing was seized I had to take a cut off saw cut axle right close to bearing bracket an take the bracket off, with the cv inner joint well what was left of it,, pressed it out of carrier bearing bracket . Sanded the bracket where bearing goes an and everything went back very nice , so thanks for response, I called Nissan dealer service dept ask mechanic an he help with advice .

[ImStricken06]

add me to this list. walked by my car, and noticed tiny grease lines along the wheel/rim. i instantly realized = something is wrong. lone & behold = i got the problematic right(passenger) side torn boot, that leaked grease everywhere. stay tuned for this video.

(i just cant catch a break with this f-ing car. i have never seen a nissan with as many problems as our Rogue)

[ImStricken06]

teaser:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_w8kPc6otQ[/youtube]

[kots1]

ImStricken06: That is a big leak! I'm surprised you were able to drive it to that point without hearing any clunk.

Good thing the dealership brought it to my attention about my torn boot. I was able to patch the tiny leak with Shoe Goo adhesive before it got worse. So far so good after at least 20K miles later. I applied on the other side as well to prevent any future problems.

I'm looking forward to your video to see how hard to do this for DIYer.

[ImStricken06]

todays nightmare:
1. axle seized into the hub. torched it out. ruined the axle nut threads. f-it
2. cant get the axle out of the transmission due to the half-shaft bearing being seized in the carrier
3. so i took the outer shaft out of the half-shaft.
4. the new part that advance auto sold me = to short!!

-after 5 or so hours, i am back at square one. if not worse, because now the car is undrivable.

i am thinking of ordering an OEM whole used shaft, and rebuilding the outer shaft to the stuck one of mine. it doesnt seem to hard.


nissan, seriously = this is the last car i buy from you. i am dead serious. this car has been nothing short of a nightmare. my problems, are not singled out. i have all the same problems everyone else has.

[Rogue One]

-after 5 or so hours, i am back at square one. if not worse, because now the car is undrivable.

i am thinking of ordering an OEM whole used shaft, and rebuilding the outer shaft to the stuck one of mine. it doesnt seem to hard.

Or call the US Navy and ask if they're interested in a (slightly used) boat anchor.

[darylzero]

That sucks man! Good luck with that s***.

[ImStricken06]

i am trying to figure out a good idea on how to remove that inner shaft, from the bearing carrier - without destroying the bearing. f-ing car

[darylzero]

i am trying to figure out a good idea on how to remove that inner shaft, from the bearing carrier - without destroying the bearing. f-ing car

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWKQFg4YYAs

[ImStricken06]

i am trying to figure out a good idea on how to remove that inner shaft, from the bearing carrier - without destroying the bearing. f-ing car

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWKQFg4YYAs

f-ing epic lol. the problem is that mine is already dissembled, and the inner cup & shaft is all thats left. there is not enough room back there between the cup & the bearing mount. but thanks anyway.

UPDATE: while removing my sping/bearing-hub = i noticed the lower control arms' ball joint's boot is torn slightly. i then removed the control arm and added that to my list of crap to change.

so far:
cv axle
hub/spindle/bearing
lower control arm
(and i see the steering link & sway bar link going in the near future. but these are easy to fix without having to remove everything - so i will save them for later)

[ImStricken06]

i successfully rebuilt it. today i installed it all. i got a manufactured one from advance for about $70. i cleaned the cup on my old axle still stuck in the car. i took apart the new one, added grease to the old one, and installed the boot & clamp. then i added the new lower control arm & new hub-bearing. so far so good!