Chasing gremlins in rear liftgate, interior lighting and alarms

[ObsessiveDad]

Finally getting around to troubleshooting some annoyances in the wifes 2015 Rogue SL.

First up, I can't "calibrate" the power liftgate. A few years ago the ball and socket rusted on one of the power struts where it would occasionaly pop out, and in a frustrated attempt to close the hatch she bent it. After replacing it I'm no longer able to set the opening height.
It will open with the dash button, keyfob and the rear button, but gets to the top, beeps and automatically wants to close. You have to physically stop it, then manually close it.
I have power and continuity at the switch, I've tried all manner of "reset" button press/hold configurations I've found online, pulled the battery terminals, reset to factory settings in dash...nothing. So I'm wondering if it just has something to do with the replacement power strut not being OEM?

Second, the rear interior "reading" lights above the doors stopped working. The bulbs are fine, I've checked all fuses that could be related, nothing blown.

third, since replacing the battery recently, I get the "door open" alarm constantly when you turn off the car and open the drivers side door....I don't remember this happening before. I wondered if it was something that got reset when troubleshooting the hatch, but I've checked through the vehicle settings in the dash and don't see anywhere to disable or change it.

Any ideas? The only other recent work besides the battery change were motor/trans mounts and a-arms.

[VStar650CL]

You may need to get hold of a scanner with work support for the ABD in order to reset that hatch. The "held button" reset doesn't clear codes and won't do all the same things as a software reset. The button reset is simple, open the door and hold the Close button until you get beeps from the ABD C/U, then close the hatch manually. If that doesn't do it then there's something wrong that requires a scanner.

The second row interior lamps share the same power and ground as the first row roof console, so if the latter works then you have individual issues with each socket or bulb. Power is common (from the Battery Saver circuit), ground comes from the BCM when in the "Door" position (fade out) and direct from the roof ground when in the "On" position. First step would be to get a test lamp and see if the problem is power or ground.

Vis the warning, is it a key-in-the-car dinger (comes from the dash) or an I-key warning (comes from under the hood)?

[ObsessiveDad]

Sorry, life got away from me there for a couple weeks.
On the rear hatch, that's the problem...I don't get those three beeps when I hold the close button.
My reader has a "Nissan OEM" option, but I don't see anything in there for the automatic door. I also have the bluetooth reader for CVTZ50 and Torque pro, do you happen to know if there's a plugin or a custom PID that will let it see that system?
The lamps turned out to be the bulbs...although I still can't see where the filament is broken, I replaced them and they worked.
The door alarm is coming from the dash, and I also get the "turn off headlights" reminder on the screen, even if the headlights are off.

And to combine/close out my other post on the torque steer...it turns out one of the bolts in the passenger side A arm had backed off, or maybe I just didn't torque it down to begin with. I haven't taken it for a highway cruise yet but I suspect that was the problem there.
There was still pretty significant vibration in the engine, (MUCH worse when shifted into reverse but still idling, if that's indicative of anything) so I replaced the lower torque strut mount (I ordered it with the other mounts, just forgot to change it after I'd done the uppers) which did take care of most of the vibration, but when I removed the old one, the engine pulled forward. I had to get a prybar on the subframe and crank it back at least 3" to get the bolts in the lower mount. Again, I don't rememeber having to do that before.

[VStar650CL]

If you're certain it's a lights-on dinger but the lights aren't on, pretty much the only thing that can be responsible is the BCM. The BCM decodes the matrix switches in both stalks and then tells the IPDM and cluster how to respond, so the behavior implies that your BCM has gone nuts. You need to hope that isn't the case, BCM's are anything but plug-and-play (besides being expensive).

That sounds like maybe the ABD just isn't getting power, but that won't be the simplest operation to check. The ABD has its own dedicated fusible link (under hood) and thermal breaker (in dash behind the HVAC controls), and the ABD C/U itself is buried underneath the left lower cargo room trim. You can find the wiring diagram here starting on DLK-90:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2Fdlk.pdf

[ObsessiveDad]

Is there a way to confirm or rule out the BCM without a high end scan tool? Although I’m thinking it might be worth investing in one…
I’ve been driving it while my truck is getting some suspension work done, and had dismissed the exit beeping. But last week the doors unlocked and locked a couple timeswhile driving. I noticed shortly after that the lights were flickering in every position besides “on”, in which they would function normally. This continued for a few days, (just the flicker, the door locking hasn’t happened again since) and now they are just on all the time, regardless of switch position. They do still turn off when the vehicle is shut off, thankfully.

[VStar650CL]

That flicker does sound like maybe the FET in the BCM which drives the courtesy lamps was melting. The way those work, there's a relay which drives the power side of the circuit to allow Power Saver shutdown, then there's a PWM-able FET transistor on the ground side which permits fade effects. The "on" and "off" positions are mechanical, "off" disconnects everything and "on" connects the lamps to ground mechanically instead of through the FET. So if the on/off positions still work normally but the lamps only go out after awhile when in the "door" position (I think about 10 minutes on a gen2 Rogue), that means the FET is melted short and the lamps are being killed by the Power Saver. If they still fade out normally when in the "door" position then the FET is fine and the BCM isn't causing it, you probably have a malfunctioning door switch.

[ObsessiveDad]

Sorry, by lights I meant the headlights, brake and marker lights (they were all flickering, along with the green marker light indicator on the dash), not the internal courtesy lamps. So the switch positions I’m referring to are the headlight controls on the twist knob on the left hand side lever.
The courtesy lamps and switches for them on the overhead console all work as they should. And so does the secondary fog lamp twist switch on the same lever as the headlamp switch and the dash/stereo dimmer. High beam and indicator lamps all function as normal as well.

The headlights, and corresponding door alarm “remember to turn off headlights” shut off after about 55 sec, regardless of the delay setting in the menu.

And another strange thing I discovered last night, if it helps connect any dots, is the intermittent wiper setting isnt working. When turned to that setting, the wipers will activate every 60 seconds, regardless of the delay dial position (three rain drops to one rain drop) All other wiper functions work fine.

[VStar650CL]

That's also a bit complicated, because the IPDM actually drives the exterior lamps under CAN control of the BCM. The dash indicator is similar, the cluster turns it on/off in response to a CAN signal. For them both to be flickering, the BCM has to be turning the lights rapidly on and off. The combination switch uses a "matrix" setup where the BCM strobes each switch row every 50 milliseconds through a diode array, so the switches are all interconnected through the diodes. If you look at BCS-9 here...
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... %2Fbcs.pdf
...it shows the intermittent wipers are multiplexed with the "lights off" signal on output 5. If one of those diodes is melted short then they'll all read at once. The diodes are inside the combination switch and not the BCM, so I'd say it's likely your combination switch is faulty.

[ObsessiveDad]

Well that seems like a possibility. The Input/Output diagram does look to correspond with what's working/not (granted my understanding of this stuff is quite basic). If that was the issue, should the front wiper high and low also not work though? And what function should int volume 1 correspond to? (am I correct in thinking that should also not be working?)

Thank you

[VStar650CL]

That's complicated, it depends exactly which diode is shorted. I could probably derive it if I spent an hour with a spreadsheet, but I'm not going there. It's all one assembly on a gen2 Rogue, not separate stalks like on a gen1. If you want, they can be disassembled and the diodes checked one by one with the diode-check function on an ohmmeter. Most Nissan switches use standard SOD-323 or SOD-523 diode packages, so they're easy enough to desolder and replace if you can locate the offender. However, it's also possible there's a board short because something mechanical is worn out and a contact wiper is crossing circuits which shouldn't be crossed. If that's the case you can't fix it.

[ObsessiveDad]

Ok, I'm comfortable soldering on PCB's so maybe I'll look into removing/disassembling the switch.
In the meantime, the mystery deepens...is it possible there's something in the engine bay getting wet that's causing all this?
I don't remember if it was wet out the first time I experienced the locking/unlocking or headlight flickering, but I just went to get gas, and it's been quite windy with rain and a heavy mist for a couple days now. While I was pumping, the locks started up again, and the headlights would come on, then go off after a few seconds. This repeated the entire time I was pumping gas and paid.
When I started it, it immediately died...First time that's ever happened...but restarted with no problem. Drove home without issue.
Upon shutting off at home, with headlight switch left in auto, the lights didn't turn off. Now all of a sudden, the switch seems to work fine. Off is off, on is on, and auto turns on when the vehicle is started.
However, about 10 minutes after I'd gone inside, I heard it start up...all by itself. It shut off after a couple seconds, then started again, repeating that cycle 5 or 6 times. It's been an hour or so and it hasn't happened since.

There is an aftermarket remote starter installed, but the remotes stopped working years ago and we didn't ever bother to replace them or the system. I do remember the installer telling me there was essentially a key fob wired into it, and that if we ever lost our keys we could pull that out and use it as an emergency backup. But that's somewhere in the drivers footwell, so that's not getting wet, just figured I would mention it as that's a possibility of how it's managing to start itself.

[VStar650CL]

Do you have a sunroof? If so, look for water in the connectors behind the kick panels on either side, especially the big SMJ gang connectors. Gen2's are notorious for that. There are lots of posts in here about how to fix it and how to treat the connectors if any are green. There was also a recall on the '14~'16's for corrosion on the lowest connector under the driver's kick panel, R22B9, NTB22-076. That can happen even without a sunroof.
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2022/R ... 4-7750.pdf

Lastly, there's a fuse and junction box hidden immediately behind the left headlight. Ridiculous spot and hard to even see from the top, but that box must-must-must have a properly installed cover on it. The box can actually fill with water and not only corrode, but cause the starter cut relay driver in the BCM to short out and no-start the car, requiring BCM replacement. You'd think the engineers would have thought to add a drain hole, but they didn't. One unfortunate customer found it out the hard way when a nincompoop body shop omitted the cover after a left-front fender bender, and we tracked the problem to the box with a pond in it. Keeping a tight cover on that box is the only protection.

[ObsessiveDad]

I do have a sunroof, I’m planning to scour the engine bay today for blown fuses, corroded connections, broken wires etc so I’ll do the same in the footwells. Thanks for the headlight fuse box tip also, had no idea that was there.

[VStar650CL]

Thanks for the headlight fuse box tip also, had no idea that was there.

Most people don't, but since you have a sunroof, I almost guarantee you there's a clogged front drain and some green in one or more of your inside connectors. The gen2's are positively infamous for that. Hopefully you don't have any male pins that are corroded beyond saving. When that happens it's a real can of worms.

[ObsessiveDad]

Well it turns out you’re right, again!

The drivers kickpanel connectors however, were all fine when I checked them last week. No green, no corrosion.
Yesterday morning after overnight thunder showers, there was a pool of water on the floor mat, and water still dripping down behind the dash. It was dripping toward the front of the dash, and running down over the whole remote start system and wiring, and then onto the OBD connector.

So I’ll clear those drains today, and try to remove the remote start. There are at least 10 wires coming off it, spliced into the coil under the dash, along with the Keyfob PCB that’s just left exposed.
I’m hoping there’s something fried in there that’s causing the issues.

If that doesn’t do it, any suggestions of where to try next? Could the switch still be a possibility? I mean is there any chance that something under there getting wet could have shorted something in the switch?

[VStar650CL]

The short answer is yes. Drain water can have a resistance as low as 200 ohms per meter (depending mainly on the pH of the rain and the type of contaminants in the car's channels), so it can definitely short-circuit adjacent terminals when connectors get wet. Bust all the connectors in the area after you clear the drains and hit them with WD40, CRC, PB Blaster, or any other light lubricant that chases water. That won't fix any corrosion which has already occurred, but it will resolve any short circuits and protect against any further corrosion in the future.

[VStar650CL]

PS - If you do find green, Deoxit is pricey but it's the s#it for saving corroded contacts.

[ObsessiveDad]

Pulled the remote start system, and 90% back to normal.
Only remaining bugs are the headlights not turning on on in “auto” position, and the rear lift gate had a bout of opening and closing on its own after I turned the power liftgate switch to “off”, so I’ll pull some more connectors tomorrow, and check the ambient light sensor for obstructions. Can’t believe the remote starter was causing all those problems.

[VStar650CL]

Make sure you crack and check B40 (red), it's the SMJ which connects most of the BCM functions on the Main Harness to the ABD Controller (green) on the Body Harness. You probably need to pop the BCM loose to access it because it's way up in the dash, but it's a favorite target for A-pillar water to drip on.

[ObsessiveDad]

Pulled every connector I could find, only a tiny bit of green at the base of two pins on what I think was the red one in your picture.

Also found some broken/cut wires. One under the drivers door sill.

And two coming off one of the connectors going into the BCM.

I haven't been able to find the other ends of either, or identify what they're supposed to be connected to in the bcs service manual. I'm thinking at least one of them is somehow part of the ambient light sensor and/or rearview mirror system, because ever since I pulled the remote start, the day/night button on the stereo to change the screen brightness doesn't work, and I haven't noticed either of the two small squares on the bottom edge of the RVM light up. (I would often notice at least one had an orange glow).
So perhaps the remote start was the "new" circuit for the two cut wires under the dash, and with that removed there's no circuit. Maybe I'll have to fully uninstall the remote starter, ie. remove the spliced wires and reconnect OEM.
Although if I'm reading it correctly, the light sensor should have voltage when the headlights are in auto, so I'll try probing that tomorrow to see if there's power, and maybe the RVM as well.

[VStar650CL]

The remote start module had to be wired into the BCM, so I'd imagine those cut wires must have been cut as part of installing that. Unfortunately Nissan didn't give us an overall circuit diagram for the early gen2's, and there are no callouts for the SMJ's and other wire-to-wire connectors in the kick panels. So I can only tell you what colors should be in which spots, there's no quick way to identify the purpose of individual wires. I can tell you from perusing the WD's that most of the stuff for the ABD doesn't go through the SMJ, it goes through the 32-pin connector B41 in your pic. So if anything is missing or messed up with that, it could be your problem with the hatch. The other 16-pin connector B42 was actually the subject of a corrosion recall.

[ObsessiveDad]

I think the issue with the rear hatch is as you said before, needs to be reset or reprogrammed since I changed one of the power struts.
As for the wiring, I guess my only option is to completely remove the starter and reconnect the oem wires.
Any idea on the purple one in the door sill? It's about the the gauge of an oem speaker wire, but all the speakers seem to be working, and if it were, you would think the other end would be right there somewhere...but I can't find it.

[VStar650CL]

I think the best I can do is locate any purple wires in the three Body Harness connectors and give you their positions. Like I said, identifying the purpose of circuits in the wire-to-wire connectors is impossible, you'd have to comb through every WD in the set. I'll make you a list tomorrow when I have time.