Post by
KLL »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/kll-u124568.html
Sat Feb 21, 2009 10:55 am
be careful when you remove the dash board. All information are transferred from sensors are collected inside the PCB, located under speed gauge. There is a ribbon cable with lots of pins i think 20 leads,if you broke it, tear it, or as if you dropped a CA glue on it, you may say to whole gauge byebye . At first try, my temperature and gas gauge were dead. on seond try my tachometer was dead. Fortunatelly, i managed to clean all glue droppen insde little socket, and i fitted the ribbon cable back. here is a little trick, there is a cap for that ribbon cable top of gauge. if you will remove you will need that hole to push it back to its place.
I installed 10 leds with calculated resistors inside gauge by glueing them to surface on gauge bottom and they are all sanded to give a light without a focus point. as i mentioned al are white leds. flux type. you may use any kind of white ultra bright leds. your illumination wil be blue. If i can find a white face gauge, i will replace mine, i do not like the blue tint.
if you are brave enough, you can sand the blue tint under gauge faces, but i couldnt remove needles
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holidazed:that is the easiest job in this modification. you need to remove the middle dash frame,by removing two screws at bottom. and you will see the double din cd player and AC control. remove screws and control part will be loose, remember that there is asteel cable behind. firmly holding and pulling it with force to up, you will release the control unit. there are two cables for illumination, AC and Airvent buttons has own bulbs so no need to change them. just remove connection.
when you remove knobs by pulling hard and removing its face, you will see only a white bottom. what you will do is to use again sanded flux leds or wide angle white leds and fixing with CA or melted silicon. I installed 6 white leds and 1 blue 1 red for coloring the tint on temperature deal. remember to use resistors for each led and make all leds parallel. Then you can solder leads coming from leds them to bulb sockets. Throw old bulb related things.
Again, for buttons for rear window resistance or hazard signal, i removed bulbs inside and soldered white and yellow leds with resistors again.
About main unit, CD player,(unit is a Clarion but has BOSE brand)you need to fit smallest leds you can find with smallest resistance componets. I used short headed, 5 mm leds, but if you are good on soldering SMS leds, you can use them too. That is a though job to fit LEDs with only soldering to PCB board by removing broken bulbs inside, use a high wattage soldering iron and use it quick to prevent giving damage to PCB of main unit. Calculate the space between the face of main unit and check for buttons if they are stuck.