Catalytic converted. Which will be the best choice?

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QuestMan
Posts: 48
Joined: Sun Apr 17, 2022 6:30 pm
Car: 2008 Nissan Quest

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Considering the P0420/30 errors I have decided that it is time to replace catalytic converters. This mistake occurred when I bought the car, thus I really do not know how long it was, but the car drives well. After A small investigation, I have found that a lot of manufacturers provide cats for different prices, from 100 to 1000 dollars.

I have compared variants in RockAuto and CarParts and have found that the warranty is the same for all models (or most of all models) independently of their price. Thus, the main question here is what is the main difference between them? Does anybody use Evan Fischer cats? Or is better to see something else?

What do you think about BREXHAUST or EASTERN manufacturers?

As I also understand, removing the cat from the firewall side will be a pain.


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VStar650CL
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Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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My customers have had the best luck with AP/Eastern or Bosal. The high-end Walkers are okay too. Just don't go super-cheap, you'll end up with early failures or needing O2 spacers to get rid of codes.

QuestMan
Posts: 48
Joined: Sun Apr 17, 2022 6:30 pm
Car: 2008 Nissan Quest

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Thank you. Should I replace both pre-cats at the same time, or maybe replace one and a month later the second one?

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VStar650CL
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2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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There's no problem replacing one at a time if your budget is constrained.

schuylkill
Posts: 167
Joined: Wed Jan 13, 2021 6:39 pm
Car: 2004 Nissan Quest SE

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I've found when doing work on the firewall side of the engine and when removing the plenum it is very helpful to first remove the cowl pan or whatever it is called.

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VStar650CL
Technical Expert
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Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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schuylkill wrote:
Sat Aug 20, 2022 4:08 am
I've found when doing work on the firewall side of the engine and when removing the plenum it is very helpful to first remove the cowl pan or whatever it is called.
You have to remove the cowl to get at the rear cat fasteners on any VQ, or you can take the nose and torque mounts loose and drop the front of the subframe to tilt the engine forward. Those are pretty much the only choices. I've seen guys try to do it by removing hardware on top of the engine, but half the time they can't get enough torque on the cat nuts to bust them because of the angle, and end up removing the cowl or tilting the engine anyway. Without a lift, removing the cowl as you did is probably easiest.
:dblthumb:


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