As you can see in the first video every time I put a little pressure on the CAS connector the car bogs down and stalls if I put enough pressure. Should I replace this or try and clean out the connector (and with what)?
assrg0BcuT0 (search this on youtube to see the vid)
In the second video the car stalled from me pressing the CAS connector and these noises you'll hear in the video started happening. I was wondering what it was and if it was normal?
The other video is on the same channel.
thanks for taking the time to read,
-jo
CAS connector stalling car/engine noise
Re: CAS connector stalling car/engine noise
electrical connectors are cleaned with phosphoric acid, available in a spray can called battery terminal cleaner. it strips both rust and galvanic coatings ie. zinc you dont want removed. problem is probably buggered wiring connecting to the terminals in the plug though. replace the plug+terminals+wiring on the harness, stripping the old cracking split loom back to where you see clean normal wires. replace split loom.
Re: CAS connector stalling car/engine noise
UPDATE***
So I ended up cleaning the connectors with contact cleaner and now the idle is not affected by any pressure to the CAS connector and no longer stalls while driving (for now...).
Just in case this happens to anyone else too I would like to make note that because of the faulty CAS connection prior to me cleaning them the fuel injectors would activate frequently even when the car wasn't running. That is the click and spray noise you will hear if you check out the video on my youtube channel. I never heard it while the engine was running so when i saw white smoke coming out of my exhaust I immediately thought I blew my head gasket when in fact it was just unburnt fuel. I only found out because when I turned the key into the ON position without starting the car I heard repeated clicking and spraying. The injectors would put too much fuel into the engine and it ended it mixing with the oil (This would explain a drop in oil pressure if this happens to you as well because the fuel is contaminating the oil).
Hope this helps
-jo
So I ended up cleaning the connectors with contact cleaner and now the idle is not affected by any pressure to the CAS connector and no longer stalls while driving (for now...).
Just in case this happens to anyone else too I would like to make note that because of the faulty CAS connection prior to me cleaning them the fuel injectors would activate frequently even when the car wasn't running. That is the click and spray noise you will hear if you check out the video on my youtube channel. I never heard it while the engine was running so when i saw white smoke coming out of my exhaust I immediately thought I blew my head gasket when in fact it was just unburnt fuel. I only found out because when I turned the key into the ON position without starting the car I heard repeated clicking and spraying. The injectors would put too much fuel into the engine and it ended it mixing with the oil (This would explain a drop in oil pressure if this happens to you as well because the fuel is contaminating the oil).
Hope this helps
-jo
Re: CAS connector stalling car/engine noise
fuel injectors shouldnt activate while the car isnt running. you have another more serious problem if this is happening. it really makes no sense for the fuel injectors to be activating so my guess is that you have a cracked engine or head seal that is spraying water into the engine. unburnt fuel will cause black not white smoke. white smoke is steam ie water.
Re: CAS connector stalling car/engine noise
I've heard otherwise about unburnt fuel being black and my exhaust fumes wreaked of fuel as well... As far as the injectors it was most definitely the CAS activating them even while the car was off, well actually the key was in the on position but the engine was off. I myself do not know exactly what kind of control the CAS has over the injectors but after I cleaned the CAS the problem went away the second plugged it back in.
This model of Z is really something else... lol
This model of Z is really something else... lol
Re: CAS connector stalling car/engine noise
UPDATE 2!
*** I would like to make note that all the problems happened after what seemed to be a week and a half of rainy weather.
So cleaning out the CAS completely solved my hesitation/stuttering problem but it didn't solve my stalling problem unfortunately. What did solve my problem though was cleaning out the AAC connector. When I opened this connector up I couldn't even see the pins. Both the male and female connections where crusted over with white and green crud. I applied contact cleaner to this and it seemed to solve the problem for a second up until the contact cleaner completely dried up... I found it interesting that even though the connectors where clean the contact was still crap leading to my car still idling at base idle and eventually stalling out... Applying die electric grease to the connector fixed this issue for me.
I may honestly go through all the connectors and weather proof them to avoid this headache in the future.
-jo
*** I would like to make note that all the problems happened after what seemed to be a week and a half of rainy weather.
So cleaning out the CAS completely solved my hesitation/stuttering problem but it didn't solve my stalling problem unfortunately. What did solve my problem though was cleaning out the AAC connector. When I opened this connector up I couldn't even see the pins. Both the male and female connections where crusted over with white and green crud. I applied contact cleaner to this and it seemed to solve the problem for a second up until the contact cleaner completely dried up... I found it interesting that even though the connectors where clean the contact was still crap leading to my car still idling at base idle and eventually stalling out... Applying die electric grease to the connector fixed this issue for me.
I may honestly go through all the connectors and weather proof them to avoid this headache in the future.
-jo
Re: CAS connector stalling car/engine noise
UPDATE 3! (HOPEFULLY THE LAST!)
So my stalling problem is finally solved. The havoc a bad MAF sensor can wreak on the Z is nuts. My car finally threw the code 12 but it took awhile so I'll note the symptoms I was getting so hopefully you won't have to wait for the code like I did.
- stuttering
- stalling
- stalling after exiting the freeway speeds (happened every single time)
- car stalling when MAF sensor is unplugged ( I read and heard numerous times that the car should not stall when the MAF sensor is unplugged but instead go into limp mode and that if it did stall it wasn't the MAF sensor causing the stalling problems. This was obviously wrong in my case. So if your car stalls while unplugging the MAF sensor go ahead and suspect the MAF being one of your issues.)
- car stalling right after it starts
- poor/surging idle
- low idle
- Limp mode
- Now limp mode was interesting for me. The car would enter limp mode for like 2 seconds while I was driving then correct itself very fast making me think the car was just bogging down. Didn't realize it was limp mode till I put the puzzle piece together when I got the code 12 for the MAF...
I tried to clean my MAF but that thing was completely shot so I went ahead and bought a new one.
I played it safe and bought a new OEM Nissan MAF.
Hope this helps
-jo
So my stalling problem is finally solved. The havoc a bad MAF sensor can wreak on the Z is nuts. My car finally threw the code 12 but it took awhile so I'll note the symptoms I was getting so hopefully you won't have to wait for the code like I did.
- stuttering
- stalling
- stalling after exiting the freeway speeds (happened every single time)
- car stalling when MAF sensor is unplugged ( I read and heard numerous times that the car should not stall when the MAF sensor is unplugged but instead go into limp mode and that if it did stall it wasn't the MAF sensor causing the stalling problems. This was obviously wrong in my case. So if your car stalls while unplugging the MAF sensor go ahead and suspect the MAF being one of your issues.)
- car stalling right after it starts
- poor/surging idle
- low idle
- Limp mode
- Now limp mode was interesting for me. The car would enter limp mode for like 2 seconds while I was driving then correct itself very fast making me think the car was just bogging down. Didn't realize it was limp mode till I put the puzzle piece together when I got the code 12 for the MAF...
I tried to clean my MAF but that thing was completely shot so I went ahead and bought a new one.
I played it safe and bought a new OEM Nissan MAF.
Hope this helps
-jo