car won't hold idle (searched)

Post by **GEO** » Sun May 27, 2007 9:49 am

eeek, if you can return them. Get the copper 7's and put them at 0.32

Post by **scotttak** » Sun May 27, 2007 6:11 pm

bleh i already installed them and ran them. should i re-gap them to .032? i have them at .035. also, i think my egr valve was leaking so im gonna remove it and put a block off plate on it. hopefully, this will fix everything!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Post by **GEO** » Mon May 28, 2007 10:50 am

0.35 is stock? You are gonna blow the spark out once you start getting over 8psi.

Post by **scotttak** » Mon May 28, 2007 11:34 am

.044 is stock i think. im not boosting over 8 anyway, at least i think.

Post by **spooled240** » Mon May 28, 2007 8:14 pm

I don't know if this will help you but when I didn't seal my mafs completely around the intake pipe coupler it idled very crappy and the rpms were going all over the place. Take it from me, any little air leaks will really mess with your engine.idk man, just my 2 centsThat's very strange how your engine runs steady with the maf unplugged!?hope the plugs work...

Post by **scotttak** » Tue May 29, 2007 2:58 pm

hmmm what are some of the common air leaks?? specifically behind the engine.

Post by **spooled240** » Wed May 30, 2007 11:56 am

did the plugs and the egr block-off plate make a difference? Make sure the iacv hose is connected to the ic pipe, my car had a problem with this. It's the hose doing a u-turn at the top center. That's all I can think of for now..[IMG][/IMG]

Post by **scotttak** » Wed May 30, 2007 12:48 pm

yeah i got my iacv hose connected. the blockoff plate didnt make a difference in my idle that much. my fuel is running lean at idle. so im guessing that i do have a vacuum leak. but i can;t find it. i tried the boost leak detector idea, but i can't locate it. the sound is too ambiguous.

Post by **scotttak** » Fri Jun 01, 2007 5:23 pm

well i got rid of the vauum leak. it was my egrc-bpt valve thingy. so i just took it off...but my car still dies out.

Post by **esahuque** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 4:23 am

How did you just take it off, did you make a plate and block off the EGR, and the bpt has a s**t load of vac lines which have to be removed and a few ports have to plugged. You cant just take it off. The best way to do it is remove your intake and clean it all up, removed all egr stuff and plug it all up

Post by **scotttak** » Sat Jun 02, 2007 9:55 am

yeah i blocked everything off. first i only had the egr valve removed. then i realized that i dont need the egrc because i dont have an egr any more. i fixed all the vacuum leaks so i dont think thats the problem anymore.

Post by **scotttak** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 11:32 am

my car is hard to start now...what the heck is going on???

Post by **spooled240** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 6:45 pm

I had an identical problem! My first setup about a couple of weeks ago, was a suck through z32 mafs, and an atmospheric bov near the tb. Just recently I basically replaced my coupled-in bov adapter pipe (from ebay) with the mafs and relocated my bov to the hotpipe. Man does my car run way better! It holds idle, starts right up and drives like stock. I hope this helps cuz it seems like vacuum leaks aren't an issue. That's all I have for now...the pic of my maf is the pic I posted earlier with the iacv. good luck dude

Post by **scotttak** » Sun Jun 03, 2007 7:09 pm

hmmi ll try that tomorrow, see if it won't fix my car.

Post by **scotttak** » Mon Jun 04, 2007 8:02 pm

i tried it but the thing is, my maf coupler pipe sits after the idler line so my car started running in closed loop mode. itd be too much trouble for me to run a blow thru set up. could these problems be because my maf is too close to the compressor? it sits on a silicone elbow right after the compressor. if i had a digi cam i would show you guys, but alas, im just a poor guy that spent his last pennies on his car.!!!!!!

Post by **spooled240** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 12:49 pm

hmmm, i still think it would hold idle. If the maf is too close to the compressor, it would surge at high boost and intake velocity from what I've heard haven't experienced it tho. If its not too much trouble, try it and see if it runs...I still think a blow-through set up would definitely work but that could be a last resort if you can try some easier things first.

Post by **scotttak** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 12:57 pm

blow thru would require some money, which im fresh out of. lol. i dont know, it holds steady idle with the maf disconnected, but i get 9:1 fuel ratio, but its rock steady at 9. with the maf on, my afr bounces between 13-15 and sometimes 16.

Post by **spooled240** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 1:09 pm

I know that feeling man lolYour mafs is fine right? Idk maybe your management? Or any bad idling controllers/valves that might conflict with your mafs? I'm running out of ideas..

Post by **scotttak** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 4:37 pm

me too....hmmm i think i got it to idle all right, we'll see.

Post by **scotttak** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 7:13 pm

all right...my car dies sometimes after coming down from anything above 1500 rpm. it either stumbles real low, like 300 rpms or it just dies.

Post by **spooled240** » Thu Jun 28, 2007 10:32 am

Is your bov atmospheric? If it is then try to recirc. it in front of the mafs.

Post by **scotttak** » Thu Jun 28, 2007 11:02 am

no its recirculated

Post by **scotttak** » Fri Jun 29, 2007 10:07 pm

im completly out of ideas...you think fouled spark plugs would be the cause? its as if i had really agressive cams, but when i drive its somewhat normal. sometimes under light throttle my fuel feels like its cutting out for a second. does anyone wanna be my guardian angel and tell me what my problem is/????? plllllleeeeassseee???

Post by **WDRacing** » Sat Jun 30, 2007 7:40 am

Do me a favor, list EVERYTHING you've modified on your car, to include the turbo specs etc. Then I'll see if I can help.

Post by **scotttak** » Sat Jun 30, 2007 8:26 am

lets see...i have an ebay turbo kit...i know i know...

t3/t4 .63 turbine .50 compressor stage 3 wheel i think .57 trimssac top mount manifoldtial knockoff wastegate with 8 psi springebay intercooler+pipinggreddy rs knockoff bovwideband o2 sensorsafc neo

egr and egr solenoid removed with block off platepair valve removed plugged the vacuum lineshockey puck motor mountscleaned the iacv

thats all i can think of for now. im gonna try cleaninc the aac i didnt do it while i had the iaa off....lol.

Post by **scotttak** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 3:38 pm

also when im in a gear, if i give it some low throttle, sometimes it will just start decelerating, like im not pressing the throttle at all.

Post by **spooled240** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:59 am

what are your afr's when you are driving the car? Sounds like you definitely have some fuel supply issues.

Post by **scotttak** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 2:41 pm

15's-14's when cruising. 11's when under wot. at idle im getting anywhere from 13's to 16's. when it stumbles, i get like 9-10's.

does anyone think its my spark plugs?? when i took them out they were covered with black soot meaning i was running rich. running bkr6e's. man this problem is just making me angry!!!! and sad Fear leads to Anger. Anger leads to Hate. Hate leads to suffering.

Post by **HOMEMADE240SXTURBO** » Thu Jul 12, 2007 6:42 pm

take it to a dyno. it might me expexive but they'll find your problem and solve it. i had the same problem and i just came back from the dyno.my 240 ka24et made around 230rwhp at 10 psi. but i still have one problem.the car won't stay idaling after i get off boost. but it will crank back up fine and idle.They told me that i need to get a new iacv because it does not seem to be holding the idle. is there any trick that you do the vacuum lines on the iacv?

Post by **scotttak** » Fri Jul 13, 2007 5:23 pm

what do you mean "trick for the vacuum line iacv??"

car won't hold idle (searched)

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