Car Sitting up for 3 years. Where Do I Start to get it running?

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elerator
Posts: 3
Joined: Sat Nov 17, 2007 8:42 pm
Car: 1992 Infiniti G20 - 200k - need help

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I have a '92 G20 w/just shy of 200k miles on the odometer. For reasons that would take too long to explain, the car spent 3.5 years at a local mechanic's shop w/out being cranked, run, etc. The disc brakes were frozen when we tried to roll it out to the tow truck to take back to my place. I'm sure the entire fuel system is gunked up & even if I put a new battery in my baby, I won't try to crank it until I know I have everything in order. Where should I start? How does one drain the gas tank?

92-G20 - dead in the water85 - Maxima SW - 356,255 miles


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XxWickedz28xX
Posts: 36
Joined: Sun Nov 04, 2007 11:33 am
Car: 1997 Nissan 200sx 1979 Camaro Z28
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I would think a tuneup would be in order, drain oil, replace with fresh stuff. New fuel filter, oil filter, and air filter. Probably needs a new belt too, might be dry rotted. How much gas was in the tank? If it was under a 1/4 tank you might be able to just get a gas can and fill it up, kinda diluting the old gas with new. If you have anything over a 1/4 tank, then your best bet would be to cyphon it out, and start with a fresh tank. You might wanna think about using some of that seafoam stuff too. That should get all the unk out of the fuel system. Good luck.

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Trav1s
Posts: 69
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2007 1:18 pm
Car: 2002 Infiniti G20 Sport
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Gas can do ugly things sitting unused for 2 or more years. I would suggest dropping the tank and cleaning it or getting a known good one from a boneyard.

The other suggestions are right on in my book.

Suitor
Posts: 7
Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 10:13 am
Car: 2000 INFINITY G20

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YIKES!! Reminds me of my "baby" a 1986 GMC-1500 Sierra, 1/2 ton. I just sold it. 140,000 miles. Flawless, never in a shop ever. Never. Except, I let it sit for 2 years, covered, and parked under a car port-outside. All was good for the first 150 miles. Or so. I had to replace head gaskets, New HOLLY 4 barrell, $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ valeve gaskets, belts, anything with a gasket. After that it was never in a shop again.

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EL MAMITO USMC
Posts: 249
Joined: Sun Nov 04, 2007 1:16 pm
Car: SENTRA SER

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well bro where to start: clean the fuel system completely, try to get the starter out and make sure is not lock, change the oil and sparks, put a ligther oil to lubricate the hole engine since im sure it is super dry, use like 5-30. check all the belts since they migth be rotted. besides that everything that the car migth need youll see it on the first test drives.. good luck and keeps us updated

Buzzman
Posts: 2079
Joined: Fri Feb 02, 2007 2:35 pm
Car: 2016 Lexus RX 350
2023 Kia Stinger Elite V6 AWD.

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Lots of good ideas here. I agree with everything so far.One other suggestion re: engine. (I did this with a Celica that sat for a year).Before you put in the battery and crank the engine for the first time, (and when you have the plugs out) squirt some oil in each cylinder. After the oil settles a bit, crank the engine, still with the plugs out. This should help lubricate the cylinder walls. If you can turn the engine by hand, even better. You may even want to pop off the valve cover and pour some oil over the top of the engine. It's going to be very dry up there, so every bit of lubrication is going to help.When you put it all together and finally start it up, it will smoke blue a little. This is just the engine burning off the oil you put in it. Good luck.

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whiteflash
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2007 3:43 am
Car: 1992 nissan sentra XE 1.6 I4 5speed light Mod
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I agree with just about all gaskets and rubber will have to be changed, but don't forget, before you move it under it's own power you wanna check those individual wheel cylinders and be sure your brake seals are ok,top up fluid and and press brake pedal before you look you should be able to see leaks easily. change the pcv valve it's likely stuck, the other posts covered most of it but you might also consider an oil filter magnet, after sitting the oil has settled and condensation inside has caused minor rust spots and thats gonna leave alot of floating oxide soooo magnet look up FilterMag I know there are others but I can remember that one. your alternator and water pump may burn out soon too (because of rusted bearings, and before cranking might buy a radiator flush kit, it's like $8 or less, that stuff is gonna be rusty too. I have a D500 I've been rebuilding for a couple of months that was abused and it needed a new rotor and cap, whether you have an auto or man. you still need to check that clutch cable, and flush the transmission fluid completely, if your cv boots are cracked enough the grease has dried up too IMPORTANT if you want to keep those (that is assuming they were working when parked) repack those with heavy gear grease and buy new boots for it (usualy about $14-20) good luck I couldn't live without mine either. Anyway thats my 20cents


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