can i make 300-350whp

[midnightsliding]

I am new to the hole KA24DE(t) think and i really want to go through with my plan for my 91 coupe and i was wondering if it was possible to make a safe 300-350 on stock internals? witch would be best set up for it? would i need to get a 2milli head gasket or keep the stock C/R? i think i want a t3t40e 60trim turbo.. and i know i will need some sort of fule mangment, like 480cc injectors, or what do u guys think will be better(ingector size.) and a 255 walbor fule pump i plan on getting the MSD BTM ignition box with timming retard module.. and iknow i will also need a Z32 MAF.and could i use like APEX SAFC to tune it? if u guys know any thing eles that would help me feel free to give commits or and thing helpful.. and lets keep it in mind that im tring to save as much money as possible, so let me in on some cheap parts if u guys know of any thanks alot

[Nathan]

turbo is fine, headgasket is fine, at that level the s-afc is in my opinion not up to the task...invest the extra 200 bucks in a JWT ecu at the least, 480cc injectors are large enough for 300, might be pushing it a bit at 350 (good luck finding them though, I tried), the key is good, slightly conservative tuning to keep that stock block alive. Also, the engine should be in perfect condition for you to lean on it that hard. However, if you blow it...a new one is just 3-500 bucks and some work away.

[midnightsliding]

i herd that the JWT ecu sucks... but that just what i herd im really not sure

[Silent Drifter]

yea ive heard the same but only if your using it for under 250rwhp, after that it works great.

[midnightsliding]

im just getting into all this KA24det stuff i wanted a CA18det befor but i figue i could make more power for cheaper out of the KA... but could i use the JWT ecu to tune it. or what would i need to do?

[aleph1]

An SAFC can handle it, It can tune for injectors +/-50% larger. JWT is a rip off and is tuned a bit too richly. Not to mention it will prolly take like 8 weeks to get it once you order. I would prefer to have SOME control as far as tuning...

[midnightsliding]

yeah cuz we got a dyno like 10mins down the road and the guy who owns it can tune it for me, this guy is really smart, his tunes that worlds fastest fwd MOPAR (neon)

[Nathan]

It'll tune for injectors + or - 50% larger yes...but it'll use fuzzy logic to fill in the gaps between full throttle and the part throttle setting you program it to. Whereas the ecu actually has quite a few different "resolutions" so to speak for part throttle operation. I dont trust some 300 dollar piece of plastic and wires to figure out exactly how much fuel I should be getting at 73% throttle going up a hill. Also, the S-AFC II does not address the issues with timing, and the BTM doesn't do the best job of it either since it just retards it a set amount for every additional psi of boost. Can it work? yes...is it the best option for 350hp? no...is it even a good option? I dont think so. The JWT ecu's are notorious for running a little rich, but which would you rather have, a SLIGHT rich condition, or a blown engine? I know which I choose...and it's because I dont trust myself to tune an engine and cant afford the cost of a standalone PLUS tuning. I believe he's trying to put this together on a budget, in which case for safe power he might be better served by the JWT ecu. Also, it can be had for 500 bucks instead of the 600 JWT will tell you it is. Which makes it almost the same price as an S-AFCII plus BTM and tuning, heck maybe even cheaper and you have the ability to just plug it in and go.

[midnightsliding]

so instead of going getting my car dyno tuned, i can just plug in this JWT ecu and run my car with no worries, and i would not have to bother with my ingition?

[Nathan]

Well, eventually you will max it out...but as long as the fuel is there for the boost then you can keep turning it up. It would be BEST to do a couple pulls on the dyno at different boost levels up to the max you want to run just to check it out and make sure the A/F ratios are in line...but for the most part JWT can tell you what the ecu can handle with the specs you give them. Although, as someone else stated the waiting period is 4-6 weeks to have it tuned. Also, it's programmed a little conservatively because they dont have YOUR car there on the dyno and things will always be a bit different due to location, weather, etc. And no, you would not have to worry with the ignition unless you were making a ridiculous amount of power and needed to upgrade the whole ignition system. The timing is adjusted by JWT in the ecu. I'm not saying it's a perfect option...just that depending on your needs and situation it might be one you should consider.

[andrave]

check out the greddy emanage too, it can solve a few of those problems and isn't that much more expensive. Some people don't like it (but haven't seen any real reasons from those who actually know what they are talking about) but hopefully I'll have some first hand feedback eventually.

[AelSic]

http://www.sdsefi.com yes it's batch fired but read their numbers on 240sx.org and it seems their poop is awesome for the price

[midnightsliding]

So what im understanding is that i can make around 300whp buy getting a head gasket(2milli) lowering my c/r 8.5to1..i want 480cc ingectors but i hear their hard to come by.. if their is any other kind out their that would work just as good some one tell me please.. and i need a JWT ecu instead of getting an SAFC and BTM retard module..i will need the 255 walbor fule pump, and a z32 maf..now am i on the right track? if i need something eles please feel free to tell me, thanks

[AelSic]

Your gonna need a bottom end rebuild and stand alone for reliabilty at least

[andrave]

I think a greddy e manage, 550 cc injectors, nismo FPR, walbro 255 pump, forged pistons, stock rods (maybe shot peen em) and a cut crank and bearings to match would probably do you well. Don't need an expensive headgasket, oem will do fine or an organic felpro.You have a couple choices, you could build it and fix what breaks (call finding the weak links, often the choice of those who can't afford everything at once) or you could build everything up possibly more than you will need. You won't know which way will save you money, because you may spend more fixing the first way, or you may spend money on unneccesary parts the second way.I'm just basing my parts list off what I see working on other cards.Forged rods would be nice but they add 600 bucks to your shopping list.

[SingleCamSam]

There's a proven formula for reliable 300-350whp on the stock bottom end, assuming it has good compression etc. Easy, and relatively budget friendly.

50lb InjectorsJWT ECUMustang Cobra MASSuitable Plugs255lph Fuel Pump ( if the stock one is old or burning out)

Other than the turbo system etc (duh). Thats it. No headgasket, no aftermarket fpr or overpriced side feed injectors, no forgies (stock rods are forged and shotpeened btw), no massive race-car budget rebuild with balancing and blueprinting. Remember that unnecessary modifications won't make your car any faster, but they will make your wallet thinner.

[Silent Drifter]

Im goin for the same goal but Im definatly getting forged pistons an new rings, just to be on the safe side. Thats what Ive heard fail first. I was wondering do you need a FPR? or will the stock on work fine?(sorry to thread jack)

[aleph1]

I believe people have gotten to at least the 300rwhp point with stock bottom end, its not really that the pistons and rods arent strong enough, you just need to manage your fuel/timing correctly. The only reasons I would ever start changing out internals is if I was planning to run over 1bar and/or I plan on doing a LOT of high revving while boosted. The main reason aftermarket forged pistons are good to have is because most of the time the ring lands are bigger, which i believe is the real reason they can handle high boost.

My KA is rebuilt, same pistons and rods, new bearings, timing components, and gaskets. I believe with the correct fuel/timing setup, I could run it daily at 10psi easy. Although my plan is a more conservative 7-8psi daily with 10-12psi track/racing.

[midnightsliding]

so at what psi would i need to run to make 300whp? with a t3to4e 60trim.. and somepne said that 50lb injectors would be enough is that true? thanks

[aleph1]

550cc injectors can handle 300whp. For 300whp prolly between 10-14psi. 10psi being if you like totally blueprinted, p&p, etc like major engine efficiency work. I would say 12psi on avg. 14psi if you just slaped a kit on and thats about it....

[Silent Drifter]

Yea i plan on running 1 bar, Im just changing out the pistons for insurance, an like everyone they become addicted to boost an cant help revvin every now an then.

[SingleCamSam]

Quote »I was wondering do you need a FPR?[/quote]No. The only reason you'd run higher than stock fuel pressure is if you had a program burned for it, or you wanted to get a little more hp out of your injectors.