Hi to you all,this forum has been very helpfull to me through the last 6 years i'm in S-chassis game, so i hope i'll help it too, to get better

I live in Europe so Ca18det is stock motor for s13,i didn't go sr due to i wanted the car to be legal here and ca18s are very cheap!I have a very good friend of me Verone(every picture with the snake is his work) who did almost all the job in my engine for his hobbie and i thank him for all the hours he has spend on the engine to be as perfect as it can with the minimum budget possible!

So i'll try to explain as much as i can for the people who are unfamiliar with engine rebuilds and i'll be happy to hear the opinions from you that may know more than us

Engine specs

*Rebuild head with new valve drive and valve guides
*Oversized cylinder block to 83.5mm
*Supertech 83.5mm forged pistons & rings
*ZRP connecting rods
*Acl race bearings
*ARP rod bolts,head bolts & Rb26 Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap bolts
*Cometic head gasket 1.3mm, stock 8.5:1 compression
*Cometic full gasket kit
*New oil pump
*New water pump
*Gates racing Timing belt kit
*Garrett GT2560R
*Custom Tgs T2 flange to gain a little space between exhaust manifold and Turbo
*Custom Tgs adapter for RB26DETT individual throttle bodies
*RB26DETT itbs
*Custom RB26DETT manifold cutted to 4 cylinders with Tgs custom part as a plug to close the hole
*Custom Tgs parts for TPS etc
*Custom Tgs 10AN Valve Cover Press-In Fitting to pretend oil starvation
*Custom Honda Teal valve cover paint(It seems blue in photos but in real life it looks green & blue)
*Ngk NGK PFR6A-11 spark plugs
*NGK Audi R8 coilpack (to be fitted later)
*Evo 8 i/c,to be midmount set up,custom Team Garage i/c pipes
*Temporary:
stock turbo outlet,stock exhaust,stock cams,stock exhaust manifold,stock radiator,stock ecu

The engine as it sits(not all parts fitted)




So lets take it from the start:







Piston balance







First red line:stock pin weight
Second red line:stock piston weight
Third red line:some combinations to see which needs the less processing
Fourth red line:pin & piston mix weight before
Fifth red line:Taking as a mark the mix of piston & pin with the less weight
Orange line:The amount needed to be removed
White line:End result




*The cylinder head is heated up to 200°C so that the stock valve guides can be removed. The cylinder heads that are made from aluminum alloy when heated expands more than the materials that the valve guides are made from thus making it easy to remove when heated. The Valve guides are also inserted in the same way but the Valve Guides are frozen in liquid nitrogen to bring down the valve guides temperatures to -200°C and with the 400°C difference it is then made possible with the heated head to insert the new Valve guides into the Cylinder Head with ease and safely. If liquid nitrogen is not used then damage can be caused during the removal and re-installation of the valve guides as the gap will not be wide enough to fit the new valve guides into the head. This can also cause the deformation of the valve and create gaps which can lead to oil leaks.

Ready to measure the tolerance at 4 cylinders at 20mm,60mm & 100mm as shown in the picture above,at the points where the line of the cross cuts the line of the circle.



A very important issue is the finish roller after grinding!

The first thing to pay attention is what metal piston springs the kit includes the ones we got to order.

Some companies to give along with the box that most simply throw in a tip and others need to communicate with them.

For example, the CP Carrillo gives ready to read the editing process and understand that not just go on the block grinding and say make us a shining!

Each kit has its own c we must equip base!

GAS NITRIDED, CPN, CPN2 AND R8GNHD PISTON RINGS
To identify a gas nitrided top ring the entire ring will be a light gray. These instructions must be followed for maximum ring
seal. A torque plate must
be used unless the bolt holes are not part of the cylinder. The first stone is a 525 (220 grit) stone, done until there is .001
” left from final bore. The
bore must be round to .0002”, checked 360 degrees from the bottom to the top of the bore. Then switch to a 625 (280 grit) stone
, 50% load until
.0002” is left from final bore. Then use the 625 stone at 20% load to final bore size.

DUCTILE MOLY RINGS
To identify a moly top ring look for a silver-grey plated finish with black phosphated top and bottom surfaces. If there is a
dot on the flat side of the
ring, make sure it faces up. Rough hone cylinders to within .003, intermediate hone to within .0005 with 220 grit and final h
one with a 400 grit and
a 10 to 12 RA finish with a 20º to 22º crosshatch.

CHROME RINGS
To identify a chrome top ring the face will have chrome plating, the top and bottom of the ring will be a reddish-brown. Chrome
on any of the rings is
not advisable with nikasil bores. These instructions must be followed for maximum ring seal. A torque plate must be used unless
the bolt holes are
not part of the cylinder. The first stone is a 525 (220 grit) stone, honed until there is .001” left from final bore. The bore
must be round to .0002”,
checked 360 degrees from the bottom to the top of the bore. Continue with a 525 (220 grit) stone, 50% load until .0002” is left
from final bore. Then
use the 525 stone at 20% load to final bore size.

ALL RINGS
The honing must be done slow to minimize heat build-up. No hand honing. Final bore needs to be less than plus or minus .0002” o
ut of round,
checked 360 degrees around the bore from the bottom to the top of the cylinder. This should be checked with a dial bore gauge.
The expertise of
your machine shop is critical to the proper finish on your block bore. When you receive the block back from the machine shop it
will appear clean,
the block still needs to be cleaned. There could be material trapped in the honing grooves of the block that are not visible.
Failure to clean the block
could lead to premature ring wear and blow-by






Pistons are manufactured from extruded high silicon, enhanced 4032 alloy (with additional Cu, Ni & Mg) that has low thermal expansion, excellent wear resistance and higher thermal conductivity. Pistons with this alloy have withstood up to 42psi (2.9Bar) of turbo boost, with alcohol, without any problems


"Phosphate dry lubricant" coating is applied to protect the rings against "micro welding" and enhance lubrication on the skirt/cylinder area.
Piston Rings are manufactured in Japan with the latest technology for high performance applications.

TOP RING
B = 1.00mm (0.039”)
Share = Barrel Face (BF)
Material = SR34 Steel
Surface Treatment = Gas Nitrided

2ND RING
B = 1.20mm (0.047”)
Share = Taper Underhook (TUH) Napier Desing
Material = CR10 NPR Nippaloy B
Surface Treatment = Phosphate

OIL RING
B = 2.80mm (0.110”)
Share = Flexvent (Nifflex-H)
Material = SR34 Steel (Rail)
Material = SR21 Stell (Expander)
Surface Treatment = Gas Nitrided (Rail)
Surface Treatment = Phosphate (Expander)

Oil ring installation












Custom Tgs adapter preparation to fit RB26DETT intake manifold & itbs

It is advisable before any serious measure to be sure that your organs are reset to zero .
A good selection of the micrometer always has zero rods process is simple.





pistons measurement

The measurement must become the point indicating the respective company and not where we think we better namely supertech says 24mm from the third ring

The measurement you get from the piston and the measurement we get from the cylinder by removing the one with the other gives us the tolerance that we have.

In this case the minimum allowable for supertech is 0.07mm

At this point I want to thank RECTIFIER OTEM for the attention given to the block making excellent job despite the low budget without honing plate managed to make the rollers without ovalotita excellent .



Since now we count the blocks in 12 points and 3 different stages in 20mm 60mm and 100mm and are confident that they are excellent and correct as to the tolerances of the pistons and ovalotita proceed with the preparation of the springs .



Piston Ring Filer




Tolerances Piston rings

The most important piece of the piston!

Remember just how many of you threw rings into the motor as you got ...
Remember now the day that you solved the motor because it had not again correct compression because it had jammed the piston and the cylinder was grab ...

Simply put ,if you had more than the permissible tolerance would lose compression and if they were less than the allowable operating temperature was expansion both ends of the spring stuck.

Let us now go to the correct processing to remind that each manufacturer provides its own so we have to apply the data gives the measurements give us properly is for the springs supertech.

RB26 GTR throttle body and plenum to CA18


To be continued..

Custom tools


Bolt Stretch Gauge


Piston ring squaring


RB26 GTR throttle body and plenum to CA18

We highly recommend using a stretch gauge when installing rod bolts and other fasteners, where it is possible to measure the length of the fastener. It is the most accurate way of measuring preload of any bolt. Simply follow manufacturer's instructions, or use the chart in the our catalog for ARP rod bolts.

When using a stretch gauge it's best to measure the fastener prior to starting and monitor overall length during installation. When the bolt has stretched a specified amount, the correct preload or clamping force has been applied. We recommend that you maintain a chart of all rod bolts and make a note of the fastener length prior to installation and after any disassembly. If there is a permanent increase of .0005˝ or more in length, there is a deformation and the bolt should be replaced.












Because you ask me what is tolerance if I put the springs as we got out of the box see photos because always I like to talk with numbers.

TOP RING GAP
If I put so within tolerance was 0.007 in 0,18 mm
The minimum tolerance supertech is 0.014 in 0,36 mm
The minimum default tolerance is 0.009 in 0,25 mm

The conclusion is yours to make!

















Mitutoyo 2109S-10




CA18DET Check Crankshaft












To be continued..

Looks great so far! Thanks for the build thread!

where have you been all of our lives?

welcome!

Well, time to take notes on how you checked the tolerances for the pistons, lol. This is a fantastic build and I'm going to be deciphering this for a bit.

I don't understand what your measurements are for when you are talking about the piston rings.

I see the picture which says:

Street Performance: .0045 in (which equals .11 mm)
Moderate turbo/nitrous: .0050 in (which equals .127 mm)

(etc.)
What do your other measurements below that mean? Why are they all different numbers? Wouldn't you want all the numbers to be very similar so that every piston has the same tolerances? Or is this a picture of the tolerances BEFORE you filed the rings down? This would mean that the manufacturer supplied rings that were of very different end gaps, so you re-gapped them, but didn't show us a picture of the new end gap measurement.

When setting piston ring gap, the ring gap is dependent on two main factors, use, and bore diameter. Ring manufacturers will give you a use based ring gap multiplier. The lower the power level, the smaller the ring gap, FOR A GIVEN BORE! Eg; The .0045" is not the gap. That is what you multiply the bore by to get the ring gap. If you look at the top of that paper, he had two different bore measurements, which he converted from the mm that they were taken in, to the inches that the ring supplier requires for a multiplier. Then below you see the multiplication for the different gap multipliers and the different bores, which gives you the different ring gaps that you would use. This process is repeated for every bore diameter, for every multiplier, for every ring gap (it's not the same gap for the top, second, and oil control rings).

float_6969 wrote:Looks great so far! Thanks for the build thread!

kings13 wrote:where have you been all of our lives?

welcome!

Izento wrote:Well, time to take notes on how you checked the tolerances for the pistons, lol. This is a fantastic build and I'm going to be deciphering this for a bit.

Thank you all

float_6969 wrote:When setting piston ring gap, the ring gap is dependent on two main factors, use, and bore diameter. Ring manufacturers will give you a use based ring gap multiplier. The lower the power level, the smaller the ring gap, FOR A GIVEN BORE! Eg; The .0045" is not the gap. That is what you multiply the bore by to get the ring gap. If you look at the top of that paper, he had two different bore measurements, which he converted from the mm that they were taken in, to the inches that the ring supplier requires for a multiplier. Then below you see the multiplication for the different gap multipliers and the different bores, which gives you the different ring gaps that you would use. This process is repeated for every bore diameter, for every multiplier, for every ring gap (it's not the same gap for the top, second, and oil control rings).

I couldn't say it better

So Izento just to add ,because i had two different bore measurements(if i remember correctly cylinders 1-3-4 where the same 83.50mm and 2 was 83.51mm) no the tolerances won't be all the same,it is not necessary to be all the same,our differences are too small,we would prefer it though, BUT if you have even the smallest difference like i had then you have to re-gap your rings to each cylinder

And of course even if all your cylinders are the same you have to regap the rings because they came with a tolerance of 0.007in from supertech,when supertech recommends a minimum for their rings of 0.014in and oem ring tolerance is 0.009in !!This is for all manufactures not only supertech.So if we had just put them like they came ,the tolerance would have been smaller even from oem ring tolerance!!The measurement shown at the right of the paper is the gap each ring must have.

And on that same line of thought, ALL rings, from all manufacturers, for all applications, need gapped. There are even some rings that claim to be pre-gapped, but they're still not right. Another thing to note is that everytime you grind some of the ring ends down, you have to debur them before you test the ring gap. If you don't, the cylinder walls can be damaged.

Good info on ring gap. You both have solved the rest of the mysteries I've had about them. Thanks.

Izento wrote:Good info on ring gap. You both have solved the rest of the mysteries I've had about them. Thanks.

Nice to hear that

So as to continue before the year change

We started plastigage and i was going to use power enterprise bearings until i find out they were discontinued!!I couldn't find oems at that moment either ,so i putted some acl the machine shop had new and it trimmed the crankshafted with a tolerance he said it was the best for me(i trust him so )-the only thing is that my crankshaft was at good shape and i didn't want to trim it but is ok..

*pictures are just for the process
















I used rb26dett arp main stud kit after i tested some from an rb25(they are the same) but the kit i got was a new one (better?) seemed strengthened compared to the olds one!

Checking the spark plug gap

Fully cleaned hydraulic lifters







Check the video to see how they were all done
The way you put them out..this way you put them back!

Ready to be assembled









If you want a certain compression you have to do the maths..i stayed oem 8.5:1

Custom made oil returning(10AN)! It is wedge-shaped and it fits perfect,so no thread used here ..(The other part you see there is for tap it in the head without damage it)

Keep it up! It's nice to see such a thorough and well documented build. A lot of good info for any build from a methodology point of view.

Yes i believe a lot of people will find it usefull and that's the point actually!

Thanks,the engine is 99% ready and soon to be on the car..

So the valve covers went through sand-blasting(actually with glass but i don't know the word) and then powder coating in a custom Honda teal color but looks blue in pics









The engine was done(head bolts) in 3 stages of torque as ARP suggested but with a difference between them of 24hours











Ngk coils from Audi R8 and i'm waiting a very good harness for them from Cyprus (i'll update later)



Turbo is just a Gt2560 for daily reasons ,i was lucky enough to get the new code which my Garrett dealer siad it has very few changes in some diameters(unsure about that)











You spot the differences?i used both beacause i put a flange between tha exhaust manifold and the turbo..the reasons can be seen in the picture of the engine i put previously!



Getting ready (the part you don't know what it is ,is just a tool we used to put it into without ruined it-no threads here it fits just perfect)





And something to keep you off your sleep(well it's night here)..the ITB'S on the engine!!!

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Looking great as always! I can't wait to hear this run.

Βad video i know but it is the only one i have atm

So my coil pack harness came from Cyprus(Kyriakos Giannakou),very good quality job







*You can find it here
https://www.facebook.com/TechnoRageDeve ... s/?fref=ts