ca18det spluttering and choking up upon acceleration/revving

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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Cams
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Engine Temp Sensor bought at the local Nissan agency $3.50, Part number 25080-F4100 (made in MX tho)



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Cams
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JNM240 wrote:
Yeah, its 22698-R2000. I just found it by putting it into the search bar. It came up as : "This is an un-categorized Genuine Nissan Part that you found by searching for the name or number." And was listed as out of stock 2-3 days. I got it in like 10.

So you have the sensor installed and working on your motor? I know which plug it plugs into, but that is now on the passanger side of the motor right by the ignitor, and looking at the FSM, it should be on the drivers side, right next to the turbocharger. I know the ECU sends a signal to it to open and close, but what circumstances does it do this? Is my not having it causing my fuel pressure to be incorrect during startup, both cold and warm?
Thanks for verifying the part number, was looking at the wrong place in the couresyparts.com site.

I mixed up things above and my sensor reply was ment for Hayakus13.

Either way, and please correct me if Im wrong, you are saying that you dont have the Vaccum sensor that is usually next to the Power Transistor installed in your car? Isn't the FPR vaccum feed supposed to come from this sensor?? "Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid Valve" or some like that, right? Dunno what would happen if this fails or is fully removed. I just know the line that is supposed to come from the intake is not hooked on mine as Im running custom piping and never figured out where to put it.

I would check that and double check the FPR again just in case.

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RS12Turbo
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Yeah, thats the part # for the DR that I ordered. It is for a ca16de pulsar. When I emailed the parts guy at Nissan Parts Cheap to see if the part was still avail, he did an inquiry, and he said there was one left in the U.S. which was the one I ordered. If that is true and there are 0 in the U.S. ....it might take a while to get one, if at all

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JNM240
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Ok, here is my exact vacuum diagram:



I took it from the stickies here. It doesnt show where the pressure regulator control solenoid is or what/where it is hooked up. If you're saying it regulates vacuum to the FPR, then that may be my problem, but how exactly does it hook up? A pic or diagram would be awesome.

As for my fuel pressure, again i took it from here:

zerothread/214558

which is located in the stickies. Again, im not saying this is 100% the way it should be, so any insight would greatly help!

Jason

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RS12Turbo
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I have my vac lines hooked up like the diagram, and I have no issues. Where is this pressure regulator control solenoid located at? As far as I know the vac line on the fpr is what regulates the fpr.

As far as fuel pressure, the link says "LESS than 36 psi" @ idle, not should be 36psi.I just looked in the FSM, and it says on page EF & EC-129 that the fuel pressure should be 28psi @ idle when the fpr vac hose is connected.

trevr
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This is the diagram you want to be using.


bias
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Ok can you show where the boost controller should go?

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ca18detgabby
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between plenum and vac line to wastegate is where MBC or EBC is installed.

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RS12Turbo
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bias wrote:Ok can you show where the boost controller should go?
I use one of these....

http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...e=BCS

and run a vac hose from this to the mbc then a hose from the mbc to the wastegate acuator

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Hayakus13
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Cams wrote:
I mixed up things above and my sensor reply was ment for Hayakus13.
Thanx man.

I'm having the same problem with my engine as we all do...i ordered my DR from Nissan in Canada an I'm supposed to get it in a week or two..i hope.

when i start my car i have to hold the gas pedal ..and when the engine still cold it runs fine...as soon as the engine heats up..my rpm is very low and sometimes after i rev the engine and coming to a full stop my engine dies or about to die...can it be the engine temp sensor or the coolant temp sensor?tps??


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ca18detgabby
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I woudl check for a vac leak......

bias
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Just changed my coolant temperature sensor and everything seems to be good. No popping, jerking, or hesitation.

Nissan part #22630-51E02

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rico05
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Ok, anyone ordering the dropping resistor in the US know this: It is officially out of stock in the US. Nissan USA has seen several of us ordering them in the last week or so and has an order for them from Nissan Japan. But my guy at Courtesy Nissan actually called Nissan USA to find this out for me, and they told him to let us know that it will be a month minimum before they are even in the US. So get to waiting...

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RS12Turbo
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RS12Turbo wrote:he said there was one left in the U.S. which was the one I ordered.
Yeess! Glad I oredered the one I got when I did, otherwise it sounds like my car would be sitting indefinitely

bias
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I picked up a few dropping resistors from the junkyard, and they all seemed to work good. I have one from a mazda rx-7 in right now no probs. I also tried one from a Accord and Prelude. They all worked.

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Cams
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bias wrote:Just changed my coolant temperature sensor and everything seems to be good. No popping, jerking, or hesitation.

Nissan part #22630-51E02
Is this the same sensor I posted above?If not, can you confirm its location and perhaps post a picture?

Thx.

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Hayakus13
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The coolant temp sensor is located exactly beside the engine temp sensor..and you can use one from KA or SR as long as it's out of s13..

2morrow i'm gonna look for vac leaks . ca18detgabby i hope you're right ..this problem is depressing me soo much.

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ca18detgabby
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best bet is to wet the vac lines with soapy water....... bubbles always help pin point errors when you turn the engine on.

though It def isnt a perfect science.

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JNM240
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ca18detgabby wrote:I woudl check for a vac leak......
Well, another big update here! I disconnected the wastegate actuator and blocked off the line, and all of a sudden i have vacuum at idle. So i check the wastegate actuator with a vacuum pump, and sure enough, it wont hold any vacuum at all. BINGO!! There's my vacuum leak!! So i just ordered a new HKS wastegate actuator from FRSport.com. Still havent even got my new Greddy type RS blow off valve in yet, but im getting a LOT closer to fixing my problems!!

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Hayakus13
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Update!! i'v been working on my car 2day and after the first 30 min i found out that one of the couplers in my fmic setup wasn't tight enough. i guess thats my leak...also i adj. my timing and now my car is running perfect!!!THANK YOU boys\girls!!!!!!!!!!!

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JNM240
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Gabby is a genius!!!

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Cams
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Quick question, just to bring this whole mess back up again.

Would a dropping resistor from an SR20 work (in case it even uses one)? Since the DR we need is in backorder until May and a guy locally might have some SR20 parts laying around.


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RS12Turbo
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Why not just get a dsm one, since the ca-det ones are on back order......they should be avail new from the dealer. There's a diagram on here somewhere on how to wire it up

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ca18detgabby
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Cams wrote:Quick question, just to bring this whole mess back up again.

Would a dropping resistor from an SR20 work (in case it even uses one)? Since the DR we need is in backorder until May and a guy locally might have some SR20 parts laying around.
SRs use high Imp injectors......... thus they do not require a dropping resistor. Im running one from a DSM...... and have for over a year with no problem. go to the junkyard and see if you can find a harness to chop up.

also AMS didnt have anything about them being on back order from them. go to the 240 part and I think it is under igintion. link to the item is on the previous page.

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ca18detgabby
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JNM240 wrote:Gabby is a genius!!!
lol more like Ive had the issue and spent hours trying to figure it out......


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JNM240
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My new HKS wastegate should arrive today. Im REAL psyched to see if this fixes my entire problem. I mean, the stock one wouldnt hold ANY vacuum. At all. So anything is an improvement, right? hehehe

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rico05
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Has anyone actually tested their DR? I did, and mine as within spec.

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RS12Turbo
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rico05 wrote:Has anyone actually tested their DR? I did, and mine as within spec.
I only replaced mine with a new one, because one of the wires pulled out of the bottom of it, so I have no idea if was within specs or not.....I do know my cold start issues 100% went away after replacing it

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JNM240
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Well so far no luck at all. Wastegate actuator is installed and im pulling around 15-20 in/Hg at idle, with the old wastegate it was 0. But im still sputtering on acceleration, and cant even think about moving after cold start up until i rev the throttle several times.

HELP!!!!

Jason

bias
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What all did you replace again? Do you have a wide band A/F gauge? I just got one and I'm able to see what's going on in the stumbles and idle. I'm just thinking it's time to step up to the plate when it comes to tuning. Some type of device is needed when you get to a certain level. It's getting hard to get things just right when you can't tell what's going on. I was thinking my car was rich when it was lean? Being a noob is harder than it looks.


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