ca18det spluttering and choking up upon acceleration/revving

Post by **ca18detgabby** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:45 am

I had no issues with spuddering..... and I had a alternator that wasnt putting out hardly any power. Low voltage could cause spuddering, but it would be on start up....... not the entire RPM band as the alternator takes over after start up(for the most part).

I wasnt suggesting to check for codes.......... just make sure your chip was good and in place it is really firmly inplace.

dear god it has been how many months? What is causing all these time delays? We spent less than a weekend including ghetto ridging the IC piping.

Website · Post by **JNM240** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 2:52 pm

Yup, the motor has physically been in the car since November. But it still took almost a month before she started. Everything ranging from: i lost a flywheel bolt so i had to order a whole set from ARP, to cutting every single piece of intercooler pipe to make it fit, to she turns over just fine but i have no spark (ordered an ignitor off Ebay), to now i have spark but no fuel (had no dropping resistor, had to order that). Once i had all that taken care of and she started and ran, now i had to sort through all the gremlins the running engine posed me: blowing intercooler pipes out of the silicone couplers under boost (crappy hacksaw cuts dont make straight lines), to blowing vacuum lines off under boost, to figuring out the CORRECT way to hook my BOV up, to random overheating issues, to rearranging all my gauges, which meant rewiring the fuel pressure gauge (moved it from the pillar to under the radio), swapping radiators from a parts car i have and having to replace a locked up electric fan, taking the instrument cluster out to swap a DOHC tach into it, which meant taking both tachs apart, since i have HUD and my tach face is slightly smaller than the analog one, i had to put my HUD face and needle on the analong tach. This is not to mention the parts that have crapped out on me along the way: throttle position sensor (would randomly die on me and not want to start up), coolant temp sensor (would not start at all once warmed up), fuel pump was upgraded to a Walbro, and finally, wiring up the knock sensor. This is all between work and (trying to have) a life.

I have actually been half-wishing i had gone with a SR20, just like all the other sheep, only because i would probably be having less problems, and parts are way easier to find. But i love this little motor. Its just such a better design to me than an aluminum block and rocker arms. And actually the #1 reason i went CA over SR was, this is the motor that wouldve come in my car in Japan when it was made, so this is the motor i want. I want to make a LHD US market Silvia. And i want people to ask me "is dat one o' dem Esss Arrr's?", so i can give them this completely ignorant look, and just say "Nope."

Anyway....

I am back to leaning towards the coil packs as the prime suspect. Especially because when i tested them the other day, it was after i had driven the car around the block (after i put the timing belt back on), so they were warm. The first 2 i pulled out and tested showed some kind of resistance between terminal C and the spark plug end, but the second two didnt. By the time i got back to checking the first pair again, they had cooled down and were showing nothing, just like the second pair.

I might just try (for sh!ts and giggles) to install my OE fuel injectors and OE EPROM on Sunday, just to see if anything changes at all.

Jason

Post by **Cams** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 7:59 pm

Thank god mine was factory installed.

Last time mine turned on it was running like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHrjYIetZAE

Now it won't fire up at all. Prior to getting as bad as shown in the video it was throwing Code 13, which I think is Engine Temp sensor, but now its giving that plus Code 11, so something is going wrong with my CAS.

Luckly, a couple of friends also have CA18s, and we swapped the following parts from my car to theirs:- Injector Resistor- Power Transistor- CAS- All fuses and relays found on the box next to the battery- ECU

All the parts worked perfectly on my friends Car, so I'm guessing there is something wrong with the wiring for the CAS in mine; maybe one cable came loose when I checked for codes the first time. We even swapped a MAF, but I'm not ruling that out because the one we tried might have been bad (too).

I'm still thinking its coil packs, but will give it a last shot tomorrow after I get the battery recharged, since the starter felt sluggish with so many unsuccessful attempts to start the car.

Post by **trevr** » Fri Feb 29, 2008 9:02 pm

I forgot I took a video of this problem

The speedo and tach are not connected at that time, but the boost gauge and narrow band A/F gauge are (with ka24e maf). Has shown in the video, my CA hesitates when it starts to build boost on a cold start. I believe the problem lays with either the BOV, Boost Controller, or connection to of the hose to the wastegate actuator.

Once the snow clears out around here, I'm going to review my connection to the setup shown in this diagram.

http://i15.tinypic.com/5xddaah.png
Modified by trevr at 11:46 AM 3/1/2008

Post by **rico05** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 7:13 am

I have had this exact problem since I put my motor in over three and a half years ago. It has gotten better (new IACV, EPROM, MAF, NGK IXs, Nismo FPR etc) but it still gives me crap on cold start.

In another thread, user RS12Turbo found that by switching to a new dropping resistor, he had this problem totally disappear. He would have to flutter the throttle or recrank upwards of like 3-4 times to get the car to idle on cold. Once he swapped in a new DR, it all went away. Considering that I am 100% sure this is a fuel injection issue, that is my next step. If that does not rectify it, then there is little else I can think of, as I have changed/upgraded/checked everything else. I'll keep you posted. I am ordering the DR next Friday (payday) from: http://www.nissanpartscheap.com Nissan part # 22698-R2000

Post by **trevr** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 8:04 am

1-up for the drop resistor. I've read in a few other forums that replacing that part had solved the issue.

Post by **jakry001** » Sun Mar 02, 2008 12:24 pm

in terms of the dropping resistor, are there any 'upgrades' over the ca DR? are there any DRs that come out of other cars, for the injectors, that can be used?

Post by **rico05** » Sun Mar 02, 2008 1:10 pm

I know that the one from a 1G DSM can be used. As for being an upgrade, there is really no way to "upgrade" the resistor. It steps down the voltage, and other than a new configuration (like in line resistors for each injector lead in a custom harness) there is not much to do. I guess you could do some research and come up with your own solution, but I gather that you are looking for a drop in solution, and as I far as I have ever seen, that does not exist. No real reason to look beyond the factory one, IMHO.

Post by **float_6969** » Mon Mar 03, 2008 8:57 am

Since I don't have the stock ECU setup, it's hard for me to help on this one much, but what about going to a HOTTER plug?

I say this because we have a VW flat 4 powered dune buggy at the shop w/a haltech. We changed the coils out (the igniter crapped out and toasted the coils) and the plugs kept fouling. Dropped down to a hotter plug, and it fixed the problem.

My thinking is that you're not getting the plugs hot enough to heat the porcelain up enough to clean the carbon off. That in turn causes the coils to have to work harder to fire the plugs and can cause the symptoms you're having.

For the cost of a set of plugs, it can't hurt to try.

Post by **mbmbmb23** » Mon Mar 03, 2008 10:02 am

JNM240 wrote:
I programmed the EPROM based on the 550cc injectors only, meaning i adjusted all the fuel tables from the 340cc stock injectors down by exactly 340/550 (or 61.8% of original value)

Aren't the stockers 370cc like SRs?

Post by **bias** » Mon Mar 03, 2008 11:07 am

float_6969 wrote:Since I don't have the stock ECU setup, it's hard for me to help on this one much, but what about going to a HOTTER plug?

Ok now I'm a little confused? I thought turbo cars go colder not hotter. I'm running iridium 6's and it's running good any hotter would be for N.A. and cause detonation (Just what i've been hearing)?. I have never went hotter only tried one step cooler but it didn't really make a difference.

Post by **rico05** » Mon Mar 03, 2008 1:16 pm

Running hotter is not the answer. It is a band aid not a solution. Like I said, I am guinea pigging it and getting a new resistor on Friday and we can go from there.

Post by **float_6969** » Tue Mar 04, 2008 4:20 am

bias wrote:Ok now I'm a little confused? I thought turbo cars go colder not hotter. I'm running iridium 6's and it's running good any hotter would be for N.A. and cause detonation (Just what i've been hearing)?. I have never went hotter only tried one step cooler but it didn't really make a difference.

Spark plug heat ranges is kind of like octane, higher is not necessarily better w/octane ratings and neither are hotter plugs.

You only want to run as cold as necessary to prevent detonation, otherwise they don't get hot enough and foul.

Another way to say that is to run as hot of a plug as you can with out detonating.

Now I'm saying this based on the assumption that your fueling is all sorted out. If you're over fueling, then this won't really fix the problem.

I CAN see how a failing dropping resistor could cause this problem and I'm anxious to see what happens with rico05's car.

Post by **rico05** » Tue Mar 04, 2008 4:29 am

I assume that your explination is for the kiddos and not me Ryan.

To be honest, I have been thinking for quite some time now that I have a fouled injector. I am getting pretty bad cylinder wash, and as such I change my oil every 6-8 weeks or so just to be safe (employee discount FTW!). But the DR issue sounds much more likely. I totally agree that playing with plug temps can be beneficial if, as you said, all else is sorted. This is clearly not the situation to look into going a step hotter (BCPR5ES-11 for those not in the know), but under anything other than stock boost, that would scare me a bit. Cast pistons FTL.

Post by **bias** » Tue Mar 04, 2008 7:21 am

Ok it was humid this morning and my car ran hesitated and stumbled even after it was warm. It was cool, but humid? Also I noticed the hesitation and idle drop got worse when I hit the brakes at a complete stop? On normal days everything stops when the car is warm but today it just kept acting up? Humid days? Do I just have to deal with it having turbo?

Post by **Cams** » Tue Mar 04, 2008 12:23 pm

Can't wait on the results from rico's test with the new DR. (This is the same as the Injectors Resistor, right?)

I took out the grade 6 plugs that were changed about 3 weeks ago and came out black. Put in new ones, battery charged, fired up after 20 seconds or so on the switch without any particular hesitation, 1000rpm. Took it out for a spin after it was warmed up, and felt normal, until I was reaching a full stop, when it would want to shut down unless I kept a little bit of gas. Dropped dead several meters from my garage but was able to fire it up one last time (after 1 minute or so trying) to save me the pushing effort. Was idling high at 1.4krpm after that.

Need to check the ECU again to see if the CAS code is gone.

Will give it a try on the BCPR5ES-11 during the weekend. I guess it'll be ok on wastegate 8.5psi boost (T25g), right?

Post by **float_6969** » Tue Mar 04, 2008 7:48 pm

LOL, no that's not for you Rico.

Post by **rico05** » Wed Mar 05, 2008 12:55 pm

The fact that our cars with this problem run so well when cold is that with the DR failing, the injectors are not totally closing (ECU pulses close the injectors, not open them), creating a rich condition. The colder air is more dense. Hence the better running. On REALLY cold days (relative term as I live in Central Tejas so REALLY COLD is like 35 haha) my car runs like a top right from start up. Mid June, with temps above 95 and relative humidity in the 85-90% range, the car runs like crap even when hot. Again, too rich and the soupy air exacerbates the issue.

Post by **Cams** » Sat Mar 08, 2008 3:02 pm

+1 for the Dropping Resistor

Had swapped most things out of my car into my buddies, but today he let me use his Dropping Resistor, after I had installed grade 5 plugs and replaced the Engine Temp Sensor. Car started flawlessly, no rough idle, no nothing. Took it out for a spin and reved up to 6,500rpm without any hesitation.

Plugged my old resistor back and it started but the idle was rough and jumpy. Revd it a couple of times and the idle wouldn't go down from 1,400 rpm.

Thanks a lot to all for the pointers and specially Rico for the part number:

(part # 22698-R2000 )Ordered from http://www.partznet.comPrice: $44.31Shipping: $8.50 (ground to FL)Total: $52.81

Hopefully will get the car fully working in about a week or so. I'll keep you posted.

Post by **rico05** » Tue Mar 11, 2008 2:48 am

God damn it. I am still waiting for mine in the mail haha. It will be so nice to #1) Finally not have embarrassing cold start issues, #2) stop going through oil and NGK irridiums every 2 weeks.

Post by **rico05** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 2:45 am

So, it is apparently on back order. Any one have any luck finding one?

Post by **Cams** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 3:09 am

Same issue here. Order hasn't even been processed.

Post by **Cams** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 3:28 am

I was thinking about ordering here:http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-lo...17931#

But I'm afraid item is from the same backordered source , since the price on the cart is really similar to the ones from Tradeinmotion.

Post by **ca18detgabby** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 5:24 am

AMS are great guys call them

http://www.amsperformance.com/...d=792

PS no idea what yall are paying for these but I know these guys are good guys.

Post by **Hayakus13** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 11:16 am

Cams wrote:+1 for the Dropping Resistor

Had swapped most things out of my car into my buddies, but today he let me use his Dropping Resistor, after I had installed grade 5 plugs and replaced the Engine Temp Sensor. Car started flawlessly, no rough idle, no nothing. Took it out for a spin and reved up to 6,500rpm without any hesitation.

Plugged my old resistor back and it started but the idle was rough and jumpy. Revd it a couple of times and the idle wouldn't go down from 1,400 rpm.

Thanks a lot to all for the pointers and specially Rico for the part number:

(part # 22698-R2000 )Ordered from http://www.partznet.comPrice: $44.31Shipping: $8.50 (ground to FL)Total: $52.81

Hopefully will get the car fully working in about a week or so. I'll keep you posted.

hey, do you have the Engine Temp Sensor serial #?? or a pic of it?Thanx.

Website · Post by **JNM240** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 2:35 pm

rico05 wrote:So, it is apparently on back order. Any one have any luck finding one?

i just picked up one from courtesy nissan. I had a Honda resistor pack, so i figured it was worth a shot in the dark. Well, no change here. Fiddeling around more on the car i realised my cheap ebay blow off valve was causing a vacuum leak at idle, so i bypassed it until my new Greddy type RS gets here. Now i have the standard "starts right up when cold, just have to give it a lot of gas to keep it running until it warms up, when it runs great". But the odd thing im seeing now is, once its warmed up, if i shut her off, i have a harder time than i should starting her back up. She spins over excessively when warm, and when she finally catches, its kinda weak.

So im studying the FSM to try and figure out the solution. Heres some things im thinking:

Ive removed my secondary butterfly valves, and have none of the vacuum accessories associated with it: the vacuum canister, the check valves, nor the solenoid(s). How would this affect the situation?

My wiring harness came with the 'pressure regulator control solenoid valve', which i do not have hooked up or on my car at all. Question is, what does it EXACTLY do and do i need it? Ive ran the vacuum wiring according to the first diagram on this page:

zerothread?id=219920

Jason

Post by **Cams** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 3:26 pm

Will post a pic of the sensor as soon as I get home from work.

Post by **Cams** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 3:28 pm

Do you have the "courtesy part" part number for the resistor? Thanks in advance.

Website · Post by **JNM240** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 3:43 pm

Cams wrote:Do you have the "courtesy part" part number for the resistor? Thanks in advance.

Yeah, its 22698-R2000. I just found it by putting it into the search bar. It came up as : "This is an un-categorized Genuine Nissan Part that you found by searching for the name or number." And was listed as out of stock 2-3 days. I got it in like 10.

Cams wrote:Will post a pic of the sensor as soon as I get home from work.

So you have the sensor installed and working on your motor? I know which plug it plugs into, but that is now on the passanger side of the motor right by the ignitor, and looking at the FSM, it should be on the drivers side, right next to the turbocharger. I know the ECU sends a signal to it to open and close, but what circumstances does it do this? Is my not having it causing my fuel pressure to be incorrect during startup, both cold and warm?

Post by **RS12Turbo** » Mon Mar 17, 2008 5:55 pm

You said your fuel pressure @ idle is 36psi? Isn't that high? Couldn't that be causing your fouled up plug problem? I'm pretty sure the FSM says it is suppose to be around 30-32 psi......give or take(can't remember exactly) Mine is around 30 with the stock fpr

ca18det spluttering and choking up upon acceleration/revving

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