CA18DET 300whp. How hard is it to get?

[theboz]

Planning on doing a swap into my S13. Don't know if I want to go CA, SR, or RB. I am in the military and have a wife and kids so I will DEFINITELY be on a tight budget. How hard would it be to get about 275 to 300whp of of a CA18? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[em55ery]

try searching or scrolling through the first 2 or 3 pages for the other 8 bazillion posts on this SAME EXACT topic. but if your too lazy then...

[btustison]

It is easier to get 300whp from an SR because it is less work to swap the injectors on an SR... CA or RB20 will be the least expensive though

[gore]

It is easier to get 300whp from an SR because it is less work to swap the injectors on an SR...

I hope thats just a joke

anyways you can do it with t3/t4oe setup, you'll need the fuel setup(pump, injectors, and maybe an fpr), upgraded maf(z32), and a safc, preferably accompanied by a chipped ecu. I dont think I missed anything.

but I'm the forum dumby I just read stuff, and never comment

[SeVa-S13]

$400 - Used T3/T04E .48 a/r 50 trim (57 trim is horrible)$125 - DSM/GTR/MKIII Injectors w/apprpriate resistors$125 - Z32 MAFS$300 - Decent sized used FMIC$250 - New Walbro pump and Nismo FPR

Now you can custom chip your own ECU if you're somewhat competent or get a used Emanage. The Emanage sucks but not nearly as bad as the SAFC sucks. I think the new Bikirom kits are around $200 shipped and a used Emanage with harnesses and support tool should run you no more than $300. Anything more is a ripoff. Then add in extra costs for piping, couplers, clamps and random other crap that *always* comes up and that should bring you close...

[r34 gtr]

1st off, plan on way more than you think. and its going to be way cheaper to make that power with the sr or an rb in that sr parts are a dima a dozen and cheaper than a soho whore, and the rb wont need very much modification to make more power being a six.

you could make 275whp on a CA with a s15 t28, 550cc injectors, an safc, a z32 maf, fmic, intake and exhaust. probably cost you somewhere in the ballpark of 2 grand if you cover all of your bases and get nice parts. youll still have to swap in the engine though.

- tim

[float_6969]

The initial SR swap will cost you more, but the aftermarket parts will be easier to find and will cost less. For the 300hp mark I would, unfortunatly, reccomend the SR. Even with the extra cost of the swap of the SR, I think it would be offset by the cheaper parts.

I generally reccomend the CA to people w/lower HP goals (stock to about 250-275) or fairly high HP goals (350+). That 300hp mark is the magic number and everyone wants it so there is a lot of support to get the SR there.

I'm not a big RB swap fan for almost any reason. It's too damn heavy and throws the balance of the car off. Unless you're ONLY going to drag race with it, then I wouldn't really reccomend it. But if you want a drag car, why do you have an S13, ya know?

[Fenvy]

not trying to start a war but the limitation of aftermarket support (like float said) + replacement part for CA is probably a good reason to consider the SR...

I personally wished I've gotten the rb25/26 but the cost and the lack of support, the need to fabricate drove me back to sr

[CA19DET]

Quote »not trying to start a war but the limitation of aftermarket support (like float said) + replacement part for CA is probably a good reason to consider the SR[/quote]i agree 1000%

[CA19DET]

Quote »I'm not a big RB swap fan for almost any reason. It's too damn heavy and throws the balance of the car off. Unless you're ONLY going to drag race with it, then I wouldn't really reccomend it. But if you want a drag car, why do you have an S13, ya know?[/quote]isn thte McKinney Motorsports Drift S13 a RB25 powered car? it seems to be balanced pretty good - and once you have coilovers and can corner balance the car, the extra couple hundred punds can be distributed better, and if you are serious gut the interior etc to get back the power to weight ratio, also the torque from the RB will make up for the extra couple hundred pounds.

[SeVa-S13]

I'm not a big RB swap fan for almost any reason. It's too damn heavy and throws the balance of the car off. Unless you're ONLY going to drag race with it, then I wouldn't really reccomend it. But if you want a drag car, why do you have an S13, ya know?

Everyone tell your friends this, I've been seeing too many RB swaps in the past 2 years and it's really bothersome.

[boost_boy]

Planning on doing a swap into my S13. Don't know if I want to go CA, SR, or RB. I am in the military and have a wife and kids so I will DEFINITELY be on a tight budget. How hard would it be to get about 275 to 300whp of of a CA18? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

If you're on a budget and must have 300whp, go get you a KA24DE, buy a bolt on turbo kit and visit the KA-t section on this forum. In order to get some good power out of a CA18DET or an SR20, the ecu will need modding to accomodate the extra boost and go fast parts. To extract 300WHP out of a CA18DET, I recommend a very good stock CA18DET, a T3 based hairdryer, some 500+cc injectors, a decent standalone ranging from $850-$1800 (used to new), and some good tuning. I say again, 300whp can be achieved on an internally stock CA18DET or even an SR20DET. The RB series are good for big power as well, but expect a full engine bay and fat/heavy car to boot.

Dee

[rbsileighty]

Planning on doing a swap into my S13. Don't know if I want to go CA, SR, or RB. I am in the military and have a wife and kids so I will DEFINITELY be on a tight budget. How hard would it be to get about 275 to 300whp of of a CA18? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

OK... I actually came to look in the CA forum for some random stuff... but saw this and thought I'd put my 2 cents in...

Someone said something about making power easier with a RB or SR... well the only adv of either is displacement (considering the cost effective RB20 for the RB alternative)... and they have the same displacement... so... the SR has the adv on weight right there... this is coming from someone with an RB20 by the way.

One thing to consider is power band... not just power... if you want your power down low... search for anything greater than 2.0L. Not to say you can't have torque down low with a 2.0... but you'll always have more with a comparable flowing motor (head, CR, and manifolds) with more displacement... ie an RB25+

Since you are on a tight budget you will probably be only doing bolt-ons outside the motor... maybe cams... correct?

I would eliminate the RB20 from your list... I did this motor because I found it interesting... not because it makes more power... 2.0L is 2.0L ok... in 12cyl or 4cyl... you can only pump so much air with a given total displacement. Bore and stroke change... along with some other variables, but total volume is the same. To clear things up though... my RB20 handles very well and is quite balanced... they do not weigh much more than the KA does...

The key to which motor to choose in the CA or SR would deal primarily on intake manifold design... someone has to say, since I don't know, where the peak power is made on the stock CA's manifold and SR's manifold... without forgetting cams... where these two items put max power is going to establish your build up. If the CA makes peak power around 6500... look for around 280bhp by calculation at 1bar of boost. To make this same bhp level with an SR you could make this power by about 5900 with the same boost pressure.

I don't like KA's... so I'm not going to recommend one. Bias... yes... but heavy 2.4L 4cyl truck motors don't do anything for me.

I like CA's and RB's way more than SR's for tech reasons... but I'd recommend a SR for someone on a 300hp goal budget. Since weight does matter in the way power is applied and not in dyno charts... I think an SR with proper intake manifold and exhaust plumbing should yield the best power per dollar. Just throw on a T3/T4, as much as I don't like them (I hear the S15 stock turbo is good for your power levels if you can swing it), boost controller, fuel management, FMIC, pump, fuel regulator, and fuel injectors and call it a day.

I think this will give you the most effective power curve per dollar with a bit if reliablity instead of swinging a slap-together job in there just to say you have 300hp.

Ok... so it turned into a $1.50... but I hope it helps.

[theboz]

I want to say thanks to all of you guys for giving me a bunch of info and opinions on the different motors and ease of achieving my power goals. I still haven't decided what to do yet but will have to do it soon, as the KA24E in my car is on its last leg......time for a bullet...haha. I really appreciate the help.

By the way I am here in Texas stationed at Ft. Hood which is in Killeen. I am about 2 hrs from D/FW, 2hrs from San Antonio and 35 minutes from Austin. If any of you guys are in the area just drop me an email at:

[email protected]

I work on Apache attack helicopters an would love to show some of you guys around. Take care all and I will let you know what motor I end up with in the next few months. I got one major bill to pay off (NOV) then its turbo time........can't wait.

Andy

[DanCouga]

I think you should take a decommissioned apache engine and throw it in there.

[float_6969]

I think you should take a decommissioned apache engine and throw it in there.

Darnit! You beat me to it!

+1 on the Apache motor...

[biosehnsucht]

that would be pimp but can you actually show us civvies around the base? lol

[theboz]

I could get you on post and give you a tour of the hangar and some helicopters. I am going to try to get a pic of my car in front of one of the birds this week and post it. I will let you know when I get it online.

Andyaka Boz

[81na ZX]

If you're on a budget and must have 300whp, go get you a KA24DE, buy a bolt on turbo kit and visit the KA-t section on this forum.

Harder, more unique, but cheaper to get 300whp: Buy a L28ET. Sure they weigh a ton - IIRC my L28E + trans are over 600lbs, but you can get 300hp with practically junkyard parts and a $300 used T3 turbo. Sure the ECU is archaic, designed & built in the 70s, and the injectors use hose barbs and not O-Rings, but you can find a complete motor set for $250 And you'll have 2.8L of displacement

[boost_boy]

Harder, more unique, but cheaper to get 300whp: Buy a L28ET. Sure they weigh a ton - IIRC my L28E + trans are over 600lbs, but you can get 300hp with practically junkyard parts and a $300 used T3 turbo. Sure the ECU is archaic, designed & built in the 70s, and the injectors use hose barbs and not O-Rings, but you can find a complete motor set for $250 And you'll have 2.8L of displacement

Sounds unique to me, but unfortunately, this post has gone waaayyy off topic. Guys, helicopters are cool and so are some military installations, but we want to get back on the topic of helping people with their cars. Being a retired U.S. Marine I can definitely understand the desire to share with others about your job as U.S. serviceman, but we want to stick to the reason why you posted. So let's try and get back to the topic at hand (although boz, I think you have a sweet MOS).

Dee

[theboz]

You guys have more than answered my questions about getting hp out of a ca18. Thanks. I know the subject got a little off topic but that is cool with me. Hopefully I can make some friends that love Nissans and 240's as much as I do. Plus it's fun to chat and BS and see what everyone has to say. There are some 240's here at Ft. Hood but not as many as you would think considering there are 40,000 plus servicemen here. I have see a few running around, most of them stock but a few hopped up.

I went a different route with my 240 than most guys. I got my car for $300, yes that says $300 with a hole in the side of the motor. I still got the connecting rod that came through the side of the block. I got a motor from a salvage yard for cheap. I love to go fast but I also love to carve corners with my car. Unlike most guys who buy a 240 and drop an SR in it then worrry about stuff like brakes and suspension and handling I did the opposite. I have a little less than 3 grand in my car including the car itself. I was on a tight budget (any of you in the military know we don't get paid near enough for what we do. I already got 2 tours in Iraq and will be going back for my third tour in 06') Anyways I put KYB stuts and Drop Zone lowering springs on(couldn't afford the expensive stuff but the car handles great and I only got $275 in my suspension). Custom made a cold air intake, OBX stainless 4 into 1 headers, cat(empty) and custom 2.5" exhaust. 18x7.5 rims with 225/40/18 tires, front, rear and rear lower strut bars. Got a fake Bride steering wheel that looks good and a cheap tach that a friend gave me. My baby has NGK plugs and plug wires and an ACCEL coil. I wanted to make sure that my car handled good before I went and dropped 300hp to the rear tires. I still have to do the brakes and get a LSD. I plan on getting my motor around November time frame. I am going to end up putting it in myself to save money and cuz it's fun. I will get some more pics of my car online and you can see what a tight budget can get you.

We got a nice little run here that me and my buddies go on about every other week. It is about 20 miles of curves that winds around a lake and through some hills. The car handles great. Some of my buddies may take me in the straights but I got them in the corners....HAHAHA. Here in a few months I'll get them in the straights too......CAN'T WAIT!!!

Seriously if any of you guys are ever in the area drop me a line and we could get together and hang out. My email address is in one of the replies above. Looking forward to hearing from and hanging out with some fellow Nissan nuts.

Andyaka BOZ