CA riddle ....

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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yourmomsrps13
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Ok i wanna quiz the pros...So here is the test.

my CA was running fine(may have had a bit of low compression but not problematic) so i bought some HKS 256 cams, installed them and went street tuning, doing pulls up to 8,500RPMs and never going lean, i guess i was lossing oil somewhere over long periods of time because when we returned i checked my oil (for no reason) and noticed it was on the "low" on the stick so i added some oil (maybe a tiny bit too much) but soon after starting the car with the extra oil it was smoking like a chimney, i thought it was the turbo so i removed the exhaust manifold and didnt see smoke from the head so i replaced the turbo and again same smoke, tried another turbo and still smoking, did a compression test and got 75/65/90/70, the car doesnt smoke on start up for about 5 mins and when boosting, only under vacuum. Im rebuilding a spare motor but i would like to get this one up and running without rebuilding the whole thing for the summer.

i probly win "longest run on sentance" but this is a problem that is confusing alot of us and would like to hear the pro opinions



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float_6969
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wow, that compression is LOW. Maybe one of the cams jumped and you're getting too much overlap? Still doesn't explain the smoke though...

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themadscientist
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That compression shouldn't even run. Did you disable the fuel delivery and hold the the throttle all the way back?

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ca18detgabby
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extra oil would burn off and cause smoke..... but those conditions dont sound like your burning extra oil either.

progman
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where was it smoking from? how much oil did you add?

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yourmomsrps13
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still idles fine and drives like a t25 on 5 psi boost so IDK how the compression is so low, the oil is just above the "sinker" on the stick.

i didnt disable the fuel for the compression test but was WOT(no cam signal)

smoke is out the exhaust

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ca18detgabby
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yourmomsrps13 wrote:still idles fine and drives like a t25 on 5 psi boost so IDK how the compression is so low, the oil is just above the "sinker" on the stick.

i didnt disable the fuel for the compression test but was WOT(no cam signal)

smoke is out the exhaust
Catless? maybe you are running rich?

articzap
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You either overfilled the oil and its slowly burning off or its turbo seals. 2 bad turbos in a row? Not sure but turbo seals do exactly what you're talking about when they **** the bed. Ask the Mazdaspeed guys.

boost_boy
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articzap wrote:You either overfilled the oil and its slowly burning off or its turbo seals. 2 bad turbos in a row? Not sure but turbo seals do exactly what you're talking about when they **** the bed. Ask the Mazdaspeed guys.
BinGo! Too much oil is one issue, but I would suspect a faulty compression tester because at one point and time my 4G63T in Elantra had 60psi between cylinders 2&3 on a fresh rebuild and that puppy was very hard to start. One of the DSMers replied to someone else who had the same issue by telling him to just drive and don't worry about compression testing until at least 2500miles. Well the compression has gained 40points on every cylinder (1&4= 145psi and 2&3=100psi), so I'm going to take the advice given. I built that engine and tookmy time measuring tolerances as installed/removed parts, so I know the bottomend is solid-built. It could be something freaky or you could just have a jacked-up compression tester and I should know because I've had one that gave rebuild-like readings as well.

Dee

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DRIFTBOI240
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Low compression would explain alot but i have the same issue with mine. Normal driving to work the CA is fine no smoke no proplems. On a weekend drift session is a diffrent story or if i get on it just for a bit getting onto the highway per say starts smoking out the exhaust as it burns oil. I was told i need an oil catch can because the hose on the turbo side of the valvecover is spitting way too much oil into the intake for the turbo so thats why its bieng burned.....granted but its alot of oil to be honest so my reality is i got a bad turbo but i'm still getting a catch can beacause that sounds cheaper than another turbo at this point. Best of luck man i feel your pain.

dash
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sounds like the 'notorious' oil drainback/crankcase breathing problems CA18s experience at sustained hi-revs.... causes oil to 'puddle up' in the head, finding other (undesireable) places to go. Pressure will travel up turbo drain also.Worse case, empty oil pan = starved motor.Is your crankcase venting/catch can system in order ?

Notice a significant performance difference with the HKS 256s ?

Buddyworm
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^Can't speak for anything else but the 256's. I have a set myself on stock cam gears and have noticed a significant difference on my otherwise stock, untuned motor.

There's definately a loss of torque from about 2000rpm to 3000 when the motor starts to perk up and really hauls after 4000rpm. The cams also eliminate the dead top end feeling after 6000. The engine pulls HARD all the way to redline and it would only get better if it weren't for the asthmatic T25 Nissan saw fit to bless us with.

I believe the opening point of the butterflies needs to be shifted up the revband a bit though. Because midway between 3000 and 4000 the engine makes more noise but actually doesn't accelerate as hard.

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sydwayz
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http://www.burtonpower.com/tec....aspx heres something i found maybe this will help us all with our crankcase ventilation. im havin the same problem with MASSIVE blow by out of the exhaust side breather on a recently fully built motor. be sure to read where it says high performance engines.

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yourmomsrps13
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:UPDATE:

I installed a GT28 turbo, braided lines. when i removed the old turbo it was leaking oil everywhere, exhaust and intake. so i started the car and it smoked the same for the first few min. then it started to slow and now the car doesnt smoke half as bad at idle but when i rev it up it smokes BAD, so i took it for a road beat thinking that maybe the intercooler has oil in it from the old turbo going bad. it was getting late so thats all for now, I really really dont wanna pull the intercooler as for it is mid mounted . i think im gonna run the car NA with the MAF on the TB to see if it still smokes.

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yourmomsrps13
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OK i would really enjoy if someone in my area that owns a gun to please meet up with me in a dark desolate place where they won't get cought for shooting me. i would pay but my f@cking car took all my money and im about to be living on the streets.

Oh yeah and BTW this is the 4th turbo i have blown the seals out in 10mins so thats about 900$ in paper weights and 1.3 years of no car. Im amazed everyday on why i will not sell it.


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Bwana
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Where are you getting these turbo's? Warranties? What size feed line are you running? Are you sure the turbo drain line is clear and draining properly?

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yourmomsrps13
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-3 braided line, .003 restricter, drain line/return clear, all turbos tested on running SR20s. Maybe my oil pressure is killing them???? IDK im running out of ideas and its depressing.

I may have too high of oil pressure, or maybe my PCV system is not working. i did have a slight flicker of the needle on the oil pressure gauge. or maybe my head gasket is shot and causing oil pressure to rise,may also be why my needle is flickering (with rpm).
Modified by yourmomsrps13 at 2:27 PM 6/17/2008

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karism
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Not sure if i missed it ?

what oil pressure are you running?What aoil are you using?What is the amient temp?


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yourmomsrps13
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karism wrote:Not sure if i missed it ?

what oil pressure are you running?What aoil are you using?What is the amient temp?
cold start is almost 130psi at 80* outside air, royal purple 10w-30

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float_6969
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holy crap!!!! That is WAY too high. What the heck did you do to get it high like that? Something is wrong...

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Bwana
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That is too high. It sounds to me like the turbo is getting flooded with oil. Either there's too much supply or not enough drainage, or both. I'm thinking both.

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yourmomsrps13
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yeah i figured but i still dont have a solid idea on what is causing it, or where to go next....head gasket? crack between cylinder to oil passage? pressurizing my oil pressure and causeing the needle to flicker with each stroke?

what else could cause high oil pressure?

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Bwana
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First of all, are you positive the gauge is good? Most don't even read over 100...

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yourmomsrps13
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Bwana wrote:First of all, are you positive the gauge is good? Most don't even read over 100...
its about 2 years new, no im not 100% sure its good. i don't remember of hand what it reads to, but i have 120 stuck in my head for cold start. its possible it only reads to 100 but its pegged until its warmed up. Next time im near the car i'll start it up and get a reading and see what the gauge goes to. the needle flickers all the time though i know that. what i don't know is why i keep blowing out turbo seals.

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Bwana
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First I'd try to verify your oil pressure. Gauges that flicker around are rarely very accurate. Assuming oil pressure isn't the problem I'm going to have to go with a bad drain being the culprit.

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r34 gtr
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I get around 65psi at idle on cold start. Double that is not right. Depending on how the gauge is hooked up, a little jumping around could be reasonable. If you have a large line running to the gauge for instance, so it reads incredibly accurately. Ive seen it on some very well built cars. If you have the standard autometer electric gauge though, I might be a little concerned. Find out why your oil pressure is so high. You might want to pull the engine and have a look inside. Thats what I always do.

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float_6969
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If your oil pressure truly is that high, then that alone could cause you to ruin the turbo's. Oil pressure that high can cause all kinds of problems, not just in the turbo.

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r34 gtr
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Yeah pretty much the only time my oil pressure is that high is when I am driving around at more than 3k rpm after just starting the car.

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yourmomsrps13
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the oil drain is 100% clear and brand new, the oil pressure gauge is autometer mechanical coming off the oil filter sandwich.

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float_6969
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My first step would be to verify the oil pressure against another gauge. If it's right, I'd pull the oil pan, and check the spring on the bypass on the oil pump. Make sure the piston in the bypass isn't stuck or something.


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