ca floods unless no fuel pump fuse or about 20 psi

[Winona]

i just disconected my sr20 MAF and reconnected and now it wont start unless i take out the fuse or put my gas all the way to the floor. it floods everytime i try to start it then i put in the fuse and it kills unless i am giving it gas. i have to keep it at 200o rpm with the pedal or it will kill or drop down to 500rpms. it slowly starts idling back up after i drive it, but everytime i let of the gas it idles too about 300-400 rpm then goes back up to 700. when i step on the gas it idles down so i have to slowly give it gas so it doesnt kill. also i have to lower the fuel pressure extremly so it idles above 600 rpm. but then it doesnt have enough fuel to get above 4psi of boost. the last thing it does is that when i let of the gas i get some pretty surious popping. any help would be appreciated me and another guy who is doing a rb25 swap were just confused

[boost_boy]

i just disconected my sr20 MAF and reconnected and now it wont start unless i take out the fuse or put my gas all the way to the floor. it floods everytime i try to start it then i put in the fuse and it kills unless i am giving it gas. i have to keep it at 200o rpm with the pedal or it will kill or drop down to 500rpms. it slowly starts idling back up after i drive it, but everytime i let of the gas it idles too about 300-400 rpm then goes back up to 700. when i step on the gas it idles down so i have to slowly give it gas so it doesnt kill. also i have to lower the fuel pressure extremly so it idles above 600 rpm. but then it doesnt have enough fuel to get above 4psi of boost. the last thing it does is that when i let of the gas i get some pretty surious popping. any help would be appreciated me and another guy who is doing a rb25 swap were just confused

Start with your water temperature sensor (Code 13).

Dee

[Winona]

just curious what would the water temp have something to do with it? and also i am using a different ecu than before, could it be that the old one was mapped cuz the new one is not, but i dont think it would make a difference if it was mapped seeing i am pretty much running stock boost but with a bigger turbo

[float_6969]

The SR20 MAF on a stock ECU may cause problems. I'd also check for boost/vaccuum leaks.

[boost_boy]

just curious what would the water temp have something to do with it? and also i am using a different ecu than before, could it be that the old one was mapped cuz the new one is not, but i dont think it would make a difference if it was mapped seeing i am pretty much running stock boost but with a bigger turbo

If you water temperature sensor is not responding or is unplugged or is plugged with the wrong harness, the ecu is not receiving feedback from one of it's major reference points which will cause the ecu to failsafe and dump fuel to try and spare the engine it's life.

Dee

[Winona]

well i couldnt find any leaks i did check, but my recurculating bov sounds more echoish than before

[Winona]

oh ok ddint know that but i never messed with it so im not sure but i will def chec it out

[biosehnsucht]

sounds like a huge vacuum / boost leak to me..

like the time I forgot to connect the hose from the cold start / idle control junk to the coldpipe.. almost 1" leak

I actually managed to drive it around the block before figuring it out, lol. had to force it to stay alive and keep playing with the throttle, and it would go but there was no power..

[Winona]

i may have the same problem where would the hose begin and end?

[float_6969]

There should be a "T" underneath the throttle body, above the alternator. One hose goes back along the plenum to a hard pipe that goes through the plenum up to the idle crap. Another hose goes right up to near the thermostat housing. It connecst to this odd, disk with a pipe attached to it thing that runs the cold start. It should have 2 hoses connected to it. The one from the T and another that goes right to the plenum, behind the TB. The last hose should connect to the intake somewhere right infront of the TB.

[Winona]

ok ill check that out too

[Winona]

not the vacumm hose just checked car is running very rich like maybe timing is off with the new ecu any suggestions

[boost_boy]

not the vacumm hose just checked car is running very rich like maybe timing is off with the new ecu any suggestions

It is important that you understand what you're dealing with. Your computer may just very well help you with discovering your problem if you would read the trouble codes. We can't help you much if you don't help help us to understand where to start. If you don't do a diagnostic on the ecu, we will not be able to further assist you with the issues you are having. And if you don't know how to do a diagnostic check on the ecu, I suggest you don't go back to your car until you've read our FAQ/sticky section.

Dee

[rico05]

Like ALWAYS, I agree with Dee. Anytime smething with your car is acting up, check the codes FIRST. The ECU only has a few sensors that it checks (CAS, water temp, knock, MAF) but if any of those are off for some reason, it will throw the ECU into a tizzy. TRUST ME.

[Winona]

well i just checked the codes and i dont even know where to start i got the codes 12 MAF 13 engine temp sensor21 ignition signal34 detonation sensor43 TPS

[boost_boy]

well i just checked the codes and i dont even know where to start i got the codes 12 MAF 13 engine temp sensor21 ignition signal34 detonation sensor43 TPS

You have some crossed harness connectors near your fuel injectors and idle control, you either got a bootleg harness, or your water temperature sensor is bad. That sensor alone has the ability to throw all those other codes.

Dee

[Winona]

ok should i just use a continuity tester to see if i am getting a signal off my temp sensor then or is there another way it needs to be checked or fixed?

[Winona]

im gunna go out and check the sensor as soon as it is done raining, but in the meantime i have one other question. i think i fried my ecu, but not posotive ihooked it up and it ran the car until about 2000 rpms like it was in safe mode but it shouldnt be would it be blown or somehow went in to safe mode with out me knowing it? how can u tell? thank u ( sorry for all the questions but i am the only person with this engine around here and no one has no idea what it even is so i have to come to u guys)

[Winona]

well i unpluged the sensor and the car ran the same as when it was in so i dont know i have not dont a volt test but will check the volts and the back of the ecu tomorrow

[boost_boy]

well i unpluged the sensor and the car ran the same as when it was in so i dont know i have not dont a volt test but will check the volts and the back of the ecu tomorrow

You may have very smoked your ecu because if you unplugged the H20 sensor and the car ran the same, that sounds suspect enough for me. And seeing that you toyed with an SR20 MAF, you may have messes-up somewhere along the way. Your car should've idled fast, ran rich, and be very hard to start (flooding) when you unplugged your H20 sensor.

Dee

[Winona]

yes but if it was bad then wouldnt it be the same if it was in or out?

[biosehnsucht]

Mine doesn't run fast if the water temp sensor is unplugged, just richer..

[Winona]

ok me and my friend just checked the maf and the temp sensor volts and they are correct according to the FSM it idles a bit nicer now but when idles but if i rev a lilttle bit and let off the gas it almost kills, know of anything else that could be doing it ?