Burned Out Dash/Tailight Socket/Relay/HELP!

[OLU40]

What's up guys? I've searched the threads on headlight relays but found nothing similar to my problem. Well at least in part. My right passenger light intermittently went off and on. My dash lights and brake lights went out. I replaced the relay, problem fixed. Now it is back. No tailights, dashlights. I think my lowbeam on the pass side is burning out. I just put in new Silverstars. Here is where it is weird. Last time and now I noticed the rear tailight/brakelight was melted at the contact. My car electrician says either the tailights are defective burning out the socket as they did and could be affecting the pass low beam and relay. Or the headlight is affecting the tailight causing the electrical system to go into default my staying on high beam to avoid burning out the sysytem. What the hell is going on that my contacts in the rear are burning in the sockets and my pass light is still acting up. Is it because I dont have a harness to hold the light in place and the heat sends the car into a frenzy? I'm stuck. Cant drive at night like that and I dont need an electrical fire.

[maxnix]

Sorry to hear about your problems. Could you clarify as to exactly what is your "right pass(enger?) light"?

I noticed the passenger low beam headlight on my 1995 Q45 standard was a little more yellow than the other lights, which I attributed to a bad replacement bulb. After I switched to Silverstars, it seems the right passenger low beam is still slightly more yellow, so now I am suspecting a headlight relay not performing to specifications.

My other 1995 Q45 with the Silverstars does not display this irregularity.

[Q45tech]

Anytime you use NON oem quality bulbs anywhere in the system you risk burned sockets, burned wires, burned relays, failed sensing modules.

Buying bulbs at autoparts stores is a kind of slow suicide, many dealers may cut corners and not use the oem Toshiba quality bulbs.

You never know what the bulb start [inrush] current is, nor the operating current unless you measure the amperes.

As the voltage goes up, the current goes up [alternator troubles].

Atmosperic pollution lets oxides form on the contacts which can cause corrosion and overheating arcing.

Examine all external [higher wattage 1156,1157, etc] bulbs at least once per year to catch problems.

#1156 : 12.8 volts, 2.1 amperes, 26.9 watts

#1157 High Element 12.8 2.10 26.8w 32 402lum 1200 Low Element 14.0 0.59 8.3w 3 38lum 5000

Each rear 90-93 Q light assembly can consume 98 watts when the headlights and brake lights are on..........thats more than a headlight 55/65 watts..........the 94 use only 2 instead of 3 rear bulbs= 62 watts.

[OLU40]

Sorry guys, Maxnix, Tech, let me specify. The right passenger headlight intermittently went off and on. Eventually burnt out the relay which I replaced. It cause the dash lights to go out and all of my tailight with only brake lights working until the fuse blew. My electrician quick fixed it today by changing the rear melted socket and I believe reversing the polarity. Maxnix, this is my first time using Silverstars after the first problem. I switched because I felt they would be better quality than the cool blue lights I ran before. The passsenger side seems brighter if not yellow. That could be because my light is not secure in place (I need The harness to keep it in place). Another thing Tech is that I felt that by going to Autozone and sticking to the specifications in the book (1157..) I was safe. It is a pretty universal number system but I guess I didn't think the quality would be so bad. I guess I have to get something as simple as a tailight from the dealer tommorrow. It's sad. I'm going to go back for a full diagnostic. But I am definitely changing these bulbs tommorrow while the problem is connected. My headlight going off and on could have been cause by these cheap bulbs infecting the system. As a safety the electrical system heads this off at the pas to prevent a full burnout of the wires,etc. Maxnix, from what I read on posts from Nissan owners and some J owners it seems as if relay problems are common in our cars. Maybe it's because they went to Autozone like I did. I would hate to think our Silverstars, after the rave review on the board made me get them, would have to go. Regular white lights are BORING! I would have to test the voltage output while they are on.

[Q45tech]

The silverstars are fine in that they meet oem current specs within 5% anway. I suspect your blues did all the damage and the rear sockets were destroyed by the OTHER inferior bulbs.

We see this all the time - very frequently with chain store copies.We keep at least 2 sets of each side in inventory and use special imported German manufactured bulbs.

Its all about time vs wattage I have used 100 watt high beams for at least 10 years on the Q but I never use them except to flash or pass...........maybe 10 seconds and I examine the sockets frequently............having fried the low beam connectors with 80watt low beams years ago...........the relay is as built 14 years ago.

The Silverstars are fine with undamaged sockets.

Look at oem vs aftermarket especially the leaded tip contacts which melt and the cheap thin bayonet sides.

[maxnix]

The silverstars are fine in that they meet oem current specs within 5% anway. I suspect your blues did all the damage and the rear sockets were destroyed by the OTHER inferior bulbs.

Using Silverstars in all three Q45 (except for G50 Fogs and FY33 HID Low Beam) with no ill effects.

Rest are OEM bulbs.

__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t & 2000 Q45

Discover the power of the button!

[OLU40]

The silverstars are fine in that they meet oem current specs within 5% anway. I suspect your blues did all the damage and the rear sockets were destroyed by the OTHER inferior bulbs.

We see this all the time - very frequently with chain store copies.We keep at least 2 sets of each side in inventory and use special imported German manufactured bulbs.

Its all about time vs wattage I have used 100 watt high beams for at least 10 years on the Q but I never use them except to flash or pass...........maybe 10 seconds and I examine the sockets frequently............having fried the low beam connectors with 80watt low beams years ago...........the relay is as built 14 years ago.

The Silverstars are fine with undamaged sockets.

Look at oem vs aftermarket especially the leaded tip contacts which melt and the cheap thin bayonet sides.

I brought the factory tail/brakelights today and do notice the difference in quality. I hope this corrects the problem. I still need to change the rear driver socket. So far no weird signs since it was corrected yesterday. Thanks alot gus. Will keep you informed.