Congrats and thanks for sharing. I enjoyed seeing your build.

Good news and bad news. The good news:

IT RUNS

The bad news:

Gotta redo the timing belt. It must have jumped a tooth. No clue how it could have done that, but that's definitely what happened. It's running at 30-40*BTDC. But hey, it runs, right? On the positive note, no crazy noises, so must be a good sign that I haven't bent a valve or anything. Also, apparently the guy who sold me my trans sold me an NA instead of a TT, so I had to do some grinding and some shimming. Got it done though, and everything fits and meshes correctly. This is certainly a good sign for me though. Oh, and only one small oil leak on the passenger side turbo feed line. Of course it's on top though , so that's gonna be a b****, but hey, gotta put in the work to make it right. Anyways. Here's video proof that a Z *can* run at 40*BTDC. Note: very much not recommended.

video-1529807062 by theaaronparris, on Flickr

(Click the picture to open the video)

Side note: Installing a radiator with the upgraded 2.5" piping is almost impossible. Good thing I get to do it again real soon.

Dude, WTF! I better get my a** in gear, you started like 6 months after me and did a full rebuild and I'm still nowhere close to running. congrats.

Congrats!!!
ALWAYS more to do and re-work/fix, so it's a great step when she makes her first noises so you can be past that most important step.
Looking forward to when you get her on the road!

Oh dude me too. And it was sooooo satisfying to hear it hit and then chug to life. But all in all, with everything I did, the only re-work it looks like will be in store is to reinstall the timing belt and tighten an oil line. I'm pretty stoked about that.

Ace2cool wrote: ↑

Tue Jun 26, 2018 3:49 pm

Oh dude me too. And it was sooooo satisfying to hear it hit and then chug to life. But all in all, with everything I did, the only re-work it looks like will be in store is to reinstall the timing belt and tighten an oil line. I'm pretty stoked about that.

True, only two obvious things to do isn't bad considering the entire body of work.
You've done an awesome job and not an easy one with a TT, and in a pretty short period of time!

timing-is-35-40-btdc-can-t-figure-it-out-t621210.html

HELP!

Positive note: was able to tighten the oil line without pulling anything.

Hows your Dual-Maf wired, it sounds a lot like mine did when I had a bad connection between my second MAF and the SAFC.

It's the Selin unit. Just hooked the two in, hooked it to the controller, and plugged the controller into the main harness. I'm willing to try anything though, lol.

I broke down and called Z1 and they did give a couple options. I just went ahead and ordered a conzult cable and the software. He's saying the TPS could advance the timing, but I find it hard to believe it'd be 20 degrees out based on just an incorrect reading from the TPS, especially since it advances when the throttle is applied.

I'm assuming it's Z1's tune?

Yeah. 740cc, Dual MAF, manual trans tune. I told them it's an auto to manual swap. I did socket it myself but I'm confident in my soldering.

If it was the soldering you'd have much more severe issues. I'd start by checking all of the Voltages at input and output on the major sensors, I've had TPSs go bad and peak out at 4V which offsets the readings by a large enough factor for the car to start doing funky things with idle but you know just as well as I do, with these cars it can be anything.

Well my consult cable came in today, so that'll help with diagnostics greatly. And yeah, that was what I was thinking as well. It wouldn't be running at all if it were a soldering issue. I'm just gonna hook the Conzult up and see what comes of it. Fingers crossed.

With consult your should see where the oddball values are coming from, if not then you'll be doing some multimeter work.

F*CKING CONSULT CABLE. Doesn't connect. Did some searching and found that a lot of people have problems getting their consult cables to communicate, but no one really had a solution apart from splicing directly into the ECU harness. Like there's an issue in the body harness or something. I just ordered a pigtail OBD connector from Wiring Specialties and paid for fast shipping. Hopefully it's here by my weekend on Monday and I'm just gonna splice the SOB directly into the ECU harness. I'm tired of running in circles.

Weird thing is it has power, but no communication. +12V switches on with the key. Whatever. If it doesn't connect after splicing directly into the harness, then I know it's an issue with the Conzult adapter and I'll have some words with Z1. What's frustrating is I called them for some tech help regarding it, and they just told me to email DTZ Motorsports in Australia because they're the manufacturer. How are you gonna sell a $250 product and not stand behind it in the least?

Damn, sounds like the recent Z1 customer services failures are becoming prominent. Sorry to hear Aaron.

NolimitZ32 wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 16, 2018 5:28 am

Damn, sounds like the recent Z1 customer services failures are becoming prominent. Sorry to hear Aaron.

No kidding, this isn't good news at all...VERY sorry to hear that the problem isn't getting better due to a lack of reasonable product help from what USED to be one of our better vendors.
I previously felt there was more to some of the complaints I'd heard about them, now not so sure, and it definitely will affect my usage of them (or, non-usage...)in the future.
Hope you get a solution on this soon!

I'm just holding pattern now till WS sends the pigtail. There's probably one in the junkyard nearby that I could just clip but I want something new and nice if I'm going through all the process of hacking my ECU harness up.

And it really sucks because I'm close to them and it's convenient, but if you're just gonna tell me to basically get bent when I ask about a very well known product, then do I really wanna get service and dyno done by you? (Especially considering the amount of cash I've blown with them over the last 8 months??) Next closest respectable shop is ZShack in Texas.

Hell if you're going to come to Texas, we're going to get Beers, many good beers round these parts.

Ace2cool wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 17, 2018 7:42 am

And if you're just gonna tell me to basically get bent when I ask about a very well known product, then do I really wanna get service and dyno done by you? Especially considering the amount of cash I've blown with them over the last 8 months??

My thoughts exactly and how I always approach things- if you can't perform the easy part (customer service of parts The Company selected, sell and have to back up), how in the hell can I expect good service on anything else?
NOT a good day for Z1 to screw with one of our Mods like this during a project that would serve as great sales pitch should all go well and as expected, especially when we have consistently backed them up with buying products and singing their (past) praises for what USED to be good service and sales.
This seems to be a current trend (to "fly the single digit" as a customer service tool), I've been seeing it in many different arenas these days- personally I finish my business with them and walk away from those people quickly, and will not come back figuring they don't want and need my business given their actions.

I mean hell, even take away my mod status as a Z32 owner, and just as a regular every day dude that just literally spent 8-9 grand with your company over the past 8 months, and still this? Disappointing to say the least. I replied in their customer service survey, and Shannon sent a message back:

Z1 wrote:Am sorry for any confusion on this,. There is a statement on the listing at the bottom about software support is through “1 year free software support and updates Visit DTA Motorsports website for all the details! DTA Motorsports Website. Once you go to that website it explains you contact them for any technical support. Once again sorry for any confusion on this

I replied midday Thursday and stated that I understood they didn't back the software, but I was having a hardware issue with the PLMS cable, and no response received.

NolimitZ32 wrote: ↑

Tue Jul 17, 2018 7:45 am

Hell if you're going to come to Texas, we're going to get Beers, many good beers round these parts.

Oh, and definitely down with this. I actually went through Texas recently, but was far North through Amarillo. Forgot to tell y'all the Roadster made it home.

And Just went and changed the Selin switch to AVG, and it's actually running with decent throttle response. Go figure. I should've thought to check that, especially smelling how rich it was running, and the fact that the plugs were soaked when I pulled them to check what was going on. So base idle is about 500ish and just enough to keep it alive, and it'll still stall out, and there's a misfire somewhere, but bottom line is it's running way better now. I feel dumb. Thanks for the help guys. Now I just gotta set base idle and check all my voltages for TPS, ect this weekend. Maybe the IACV seized up from 8 months of the plenum sitting off the engine. More troubleshooting to be had, but now I'm in known territory. Let's get this thing done.

Ace2cool wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 21, 2018 5:09 pm

And Just went and changed the Selin switch to AVG, and it's actually running with decent throttle response. Go figure. I should've thought to check that, especially smelling how rich it was running, and the fact that the plugs were soaked when I pulled them to check what was going on. So base idle is about 500ish and just enough to keep it alive, and it'll still stall out, and there's a misfire somewhere, but bottom line is it's running way better now. I feel dumb. Thanks for the help guys. Now I just gotta set base idle and check all my voltages for TPS, ect this weekend. Maybe the IACV seized up from 8 months of the plenum sitting off the engine. More troubleshooting to be had, but now I'm in known territory. Let's get this thing done.

YAY!!!
Don't feel dumb, I'm sure you and I and a few others I know of aren't alone with that one. I'm just glad we thought of it and got the idea out there so you found it, as you say now the work can really get started with the IACV, PTU, harnesses and failed electrical components (becoming common even with the sealed units like starter solenoid, etc.), etc, etc.

SOOOOO much to work through and consider with these cars it's actually amazing we non-professional car guys can get it done as often as we do...so get crackin'!

So. PTU tests good, I'm an idiot and had the #2 and #3 coil connectors swapped (You would think that the #2 connector would be the one that's taped to the fuel temp sensor), Still running rough, but much better now. Since I had those swapped up, I'm gonna go through and verify the injector connectors aren't swapped, and verify that they are in fact firing in order when I rotate the CAS. I did drive it just down the block and back, and even as a 5 cylinder it's still running and driving. Progress has been slow due to personal issues lately, but I'm about to buckle down and get it done my next couple days off. No power steering, no A/C, no anything just yet, but it was still fun to run down the road and back.

Sorry for the delayed update guys. It's back together and I've been driving it. I probably put about 75 miles on it since I got it running right. Bottom line is double, triple check your connections. I ended up going pin by pin on the ECU, because even though the injector connectors all appeared to be in the correct locations, they were in fact swapped up.

Also, anyone who is having trouble getting their plms cable to work, double check what COM port it is connecting to and make sure that's which one nistune or Conzult is using. Conzult was attempting port 3 for me but the plms was registering on COM 4. Hopefully this helps someone out cause there was very little info for plug and play consult cables out there. Easy way to tell which port its connecting through is to look in the devices and drivers menu.

Still got some tweaks to do. No power steering, no AC yet, but still having a blast. So satisfying knowing I did this myself.

Ace2cool wrote: ↑

Wed Aug 22, 2018 12:22 pm

Sorry for the delayed update guys. It's back together and I've been driving it. I probably put about 75 miles on it since I got it running right. Bottom line is double, triple check your connections. I ended up going pin by pin on the ECU, because even though the injector connectors all appeared to be in the correct locations, they were in fact swapped up.

Also, anyone who is having trouble getting their plms cable to work, double check what COM port it is connecting to and make sure that's which one nistune or Conzult is using. Conzult was attempting port 3 for me but the plms was registering on COM 4. Hopefully this helps someone out cause there was very little info for plug and play consult cables out there. Easy way to tell which port its connecting through is to look in the devices and drivers menu.

Still got some tweaks to do. No power steering, no AC yet, but still having a blast. So satisfying knowing I did this myself.

That's good news my friend, and good info regarding the conzult and injectors.
Nothing quite like driving around a built Z32 IMO, especially as you say when you've done the work yourself.
Congrats!!!

So I got into the patrol car last night after driving the Z for 2 days. Usually the patrol car feels zippy compared to my truck but jesus did it feel like a dog, hahaha.

So if you get pulled over in the Z are you getting a ticket?