There's a good 2mm of shaft play in that turbo. No clue how the compressor wheel hasn't gouged itself. It wasn't even making noise! Crazy!

Ace2cool wrote: ↑

Thu Dec 07, 2017 4:20 am

krimsonviper wrote: ↑

Fri Dec 01, 2017 5:54 pm

Dude, Ace. You’re married now?! Congrats! Who’s the poor lady?

Like you ain't got my facebook boi.

Anyways, I promised pictures.

Heads off:
**bunch of pics**

I do not, good sir. PM me details and I'll add you.

Looks like you have quite the trip ahead of you. Want to walnut blast my intake valves for me?

krimsonviper wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 11, 2017 6:24 pm

Looks like you have quite the trip ahead of you. Want to walnut blast my intake valves for me?

I'm gonna assume that's an innuendo and say yes.

And looks like those 550's were a bust. Huge thanks to Anton for going and checking em out for me and saving me from blowing $1500. I'll dig back in and figure out what direction I'm going for turbos. I'm seriously starting to lean towards just biting the bullet and getting a 5 bolt ball bearing setup, and just figure out somewhere else to save cost.

Save cost on anything that can be done without removing the engine. Sell wheels if you have them, or sell your body, I hear Weinstein is paying up. In all seriousness though you should just got for a 5-bolt BB now, you wont regret it.

Ugh, why do they have to be so much more expensive? Also why does Z1 charge $400 a pair for a core on the GT525 kit and only give $150 a pair on the core buyback program?

Then with the cost of the downpipes vs. what I could get a 4 bolt pipe set for, and I'm in wayyyy more $$$ than before. But for such a better end result.....

I knew I'd hit dilemmas during this build, but I didn't think I'd be hitting them before I even got the block bare. (yes, I've been dragging my feet. I also work night shift and have almost no time to myself, lol)

I have a feeling homeboy dogged the car hard and parked it and didn't have a turbo timer on those 550's. Well, I'll just have to consult with the wife on my options. Anyone need an 05 GSX-R 600? just needs a battery and fairings. Or a '74 CB550? The CB runs fine.

Ace2cool wrote: ↑

Fri Dec 15, 2017 10:13 am

krimsonviper wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 11, 2017 6:24 pm

Looks like you have quite the trip ahead of you. Want to walnut blast my intake valves for me?

I'm gonna assume that's an innuendo and say yes.

And looks like those 550's were a bust. Huge thanks to Anton for going and checking em out for me and saving me from blowing $1500. I'll dig back in and figure out what direction I'm going for turbos. I'm seriously starting to lean towards just biting the bullet and getting a 5 bolt ball bearing setup, and just figure out somewhere else to save cost.

It's actually not innuendo lol. My engine is direct injection, so fuel doesn't go over my intake valves helping them stay clean. As a result, there are severe deposits on them and it's recommended that they get walnut blasted and cleaned with picks to kill the heavy deposits. I have 80k miles on this motor and I don't think its ever been done.

I haven't a clue what youve said about a 5 bol ball bearing set up, so I'll play my empathy card and say "that sucks."

So teardown revealed there was more going on than anticipated. Only sounded like one rod knocking. Turns out all of them had some uneven wear to some degree.

Cylinders 1 through 6, in order:













Honestly I'm not positive what caused the uneven wear. I know that the premature wear was caused by low oil pressure, but the wear pattern being only on one side of each rod is odd. I think I dinged the oil pan and closed the clearance between the pickup tube and the pump. Haven't done an autopsy of the pump yet, but if I had to guess, that'd be the issue, based on a scrape mark directly next to the drain plug. I thought that I had a malfunctioning oil pressure sending unit, as I had another one that had previously given up and read exactly the same as this was reading. I'll definitely be getting an external gauge this time around so I have double redundancy on readings for sure. (I'm gonna be paranoid about oil pressure from here on out, I'm sure of it) Oddest thing is that my low oil pressure light never came on. Oh well.



Hard to see, but the cylinder walls are still in perfect condition, as were the pistons themselves. Hell, even the rings didn't really show any wear signs. All of them were just like this.



The shortblock is ridiculously small compared to the overall size of the fully assembled longblock though. I can't get over the difference, haha.



This is gonna be getting polished, checked, balanced with the new pistons and rods, and hopefully not gonna need too much in the way of machining. It still looked in decent shape, but the wear pattern of the bearings have me a bit worried. Didn't see any scoring or what looked like low spots, but when you're measuring tolerances, you're not gonna be able to visually see it.



All loaded up and ready to head to their respective shops! The heads are going to a respectable shop just down the road from me for basic mill work/resurfacing. Dude has a stellar reputation around town, so no worries there. He's gonna draw a vacuum on them and make sure none of the valves are leaking, clean em up a bit, and I should have them back in a few days.

The block, crank, and new internals are going to USA Motor and Machine in Nashville. Turns out they are quite experienced with the VG. They said mine will make the 9th or 10th setup they've spec'd just like it with .020" over Wiseco pistons and Eagle H Beam rods. The machinist behind the counter knew the bore spec for those particular pistons off the top of his head. Super stoked that they know their way around this engine, so I'm not worried at all about their work. They said a local guy laid down 700hp on the exact internals I'm running, so with my modest build, I'm feeling pretty good about reliability with the parts chosen and the shop choice.

Now it's a waiting game. Guess I need to grab my brother in law's pressure washer and a bucket of degreaser. The engine bay needs some serious TLC. Why does it have to be turning cold out?

Ace2cool wrote: ↑

Fri Dec 22, 2017 9:46 am

The shortblock is ridiculously small compared to the overall size of the fully assembled longblock though. I can't get over the difference, haha.

Funny, right? I go in to see progress on mine years ago, and there's this tiny little thing on an engine stand and I just move on past, looking for my engine. I see Eric and ask, he says you just passed it...I'm like WHAT??? Ain't that like a lawn mower engine or something?
Looks like you could pick it up and just give it a big hug.

Nice progress sir! Merry Christmahannukwanzukah.

Damn, this is inspiring. I wish I had the tools, parts, money, and second vehicle to do this lol.

John, I've used entirely hand tools during this build. No power tools whatsoever. It sucks but I have a feeling it's gonna make me feel that much more accomplished when it's all said and done.

I rarely ever use power tools when working on cars, you end up either breaking stuff or having to go back to check torque anyway by hand.

Oh, I wasn't even thinking of power tools. I mean I don't believe I have enough tools to even get started. I have basic tools for maintenance, but I don't have the thing that pulls out the block, torque wrench (I rent the ones I use), allen wrenches, torx, complete socket and wrench sets (I pieced mine together since I inherited some), the materials for seals, yadda yadda yadda. I don't believe people use power tools on engine builds and such, right? Causes cross threading and over torquing, etc, no?

krimsonviper wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 27, 2017 6:14 pm

I don't believe people use power tools on engine builds and such, right? Causes cross threading and over torquing, etc, no?

Nah bro I'd definitely be using them to break torque on some of these bolts that have been on there since '91. Big-A breaker bar works though. (3/4" socket set from John Deere from when I used to work on tractors is pretty beast.)

So got everything back from the shop yesterday! Head milling only took .002" off, and they barely took .001" off the block. Standard size head gaskets it is. Crank polished up perfectly as well (thank the lord) so no oversized bearings needed. I went ahead and had them file fit the rings for me, so I guess I won't be doing ALL the assembly, haha. Now we play the waiting game till bearings, head gaskets, and head studs come in. Real talk though, I'm putting off rebuilding the steering rack. Looks like a PITA.

Ace2cool wrote: ↑

Fri Dec 29, 2017 5:02 pm

krimsonviper wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 27, 2017 6:14 pm

I don't believe people use power tools on engine builds and such, right? Causes cross threading and over torquing, etc, no?

Nah bro I'd definitely be using them to break torque on some of these bolts that have been on there since '91. Big-A breaker bar works though. (3/4" socket set from John Deere from when I used to work on tractors is pretty beast.)

So got everything back from the shop yesterday! Head milling only took .002" off, and they barely took .001" off the block. Standard size head gaskets it is. Crank polished up perfectly as well (thank the lord) so no oversized bearings needed. I went ahead and had them file fit the rings for me, so I guess I won't be doing ALL the assembly, haha. Now we play the waiting game till bearings, head gaskets, and head studs come in. Real talk though, I'm putting off rebuilding the steering rack. Looks like a PITA.

Awesome news with the cleanup work, especially the crank! The oddly-shaped wear on those rods really had me wondering what was up there, glad it was just superficial.
So, no file-fitting and plastiguage for you, eh? That may have been the most-fun part of building my old BB Ford WAAAAAAY back in the day, setting it all up to racing spec myself from a build sheet.
Looking forward to your progress!

Ace2cool wrote: ↑

Fri Dec 29, 2017 5:02 pm

krimsonviper wrote: ↑

Wed Dec 27, 2017 6:14 pm

I don't believe people use power tools on engine builds and such, right? Causes cross threading and over torquing, etc, no?

Nah bro I'd definitely be using them to break torque on some of these bolts that have been on there since '91. Big-A breaker bar works though. (3/4" socket set from John Deere from when I used to work on tractors is pretty beast.)

So got everything back from the shop yesterday! Head milling only took .002" off, and they barely took .001" off the block. Standard size head gaskets it is. Crank polished up perfectly as well (thank the lord) so no oversized bearings needed. I went ahead and had them file fit the rings for me, so I guess I won't be doing ALL the assembly, haha. Now we play the waiting game till bearings, head gaskets, and head studs come in. Real talk though, I'm putting off rebuilding the steering rack. Looks like a PITA.

I'm excited for you man!

Update time! (Been a while)

Rods and pistons matched up and assembled:


Matching up main bearings and getting ready for assembly:


Didn't take pictures of final assembly, but here's a picture of the assembled shortblock:


And heads and lower plenum installed:


Side note: It is absolutely NERVE RACKING tightening those head studs down. Especially when they hit that loss of tension point and you feel like it's stripping out because you're putting 90lb/ft of torque on it.

It's coming along! Purchase list now consists of turbos, full exhaust, and odds and ends for final assembly, such as shifter mount and trans harness.

Wow, the side by side is ridiculous.

I know just what you mean, you're pulling on the torque wrench with all your might and the stud turns like 8 degrees and your heart sinks for a second, and you hear money just flying out the window.

Nice progress. What bearings did you go with for the crank, OEM or aftermarket?

grayman_TT wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 21, 2018 2:13 pm

Nice progress. What bearings did you go with for the crank, OEM or aftermarket?

Went with OEM. Unfortunately, sounds like that's not gonna be the possible in the future, as Nissan is discontinuing the bearings.

Also, found an interesting thing. If you go directly through Nissan, the O-rings for the original style VTC gear covers supersede to the new style and are unable to be ordered. At least through the D.A.'s that run all the local parts counters at dealers. HOWEVER, I found that the O-rings for the balance tube (the larger two) are the exact same diameter and thickness as the early style VTC O-rings.

If all the lopsided bearing wear ends up all rods wearing on the same side as assembled and running was the crank thrust bearing heavily worn? If manual trans that can make thrust bearing wear on one side like that, the crank tends to load that direction and bearing wear at thrust lets the rods be slightly out of perfect perpendicular. Then the whacky wear pattern.

If the side loading is all not the same way then look at the rod side clearances, they may be too loose.

Thats too bad, I was hoping to go with OEM when the time comes. Now it will be either Clevite, King, or ACL.

I'm running ACL race with no issues so far (knock on wood), just make sure you have your clearances right.

amc49 wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 22, 2018 12:00 am

If all the lopsided bearing wear ends up all rods wearing on the same side as assembled and running was the crank thrust bearing heavily worn? If manual trans that can make thrust bearing wear on one side like that, the crank tends to load that direction and bearing wear at thrust lets the rods be slightly out of perfect perpendicular. Then the whacky wear pattern.

If the side loading is all not the same way then look at the rod side clearances, they may be too loose.

That's the thing. All the mains were in perfect shape, and the thrust bearing showed literally no signs of wear. Just a little polished from 120k miles, but no wear at all. And this one has spent its whole life as an auto, and is just now going to learn to walk as a manual. I had the shop check the journals and all clearances, and they said everything was perfectly in spec.

grayman_TT wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 23, 2018 2:39 pm

Thats too bad, I was hoping to go with OEM when the time comes. Now it will be either Clevite, King, or ACL.

They're still available through Z1's and CZP's backstock if you order right now and pop em on a shelf for later use, but as I understand it, after that stock is exhausted, it's all gone.

Smallish big update. First off, got a small amount of assembly done. I spent a ton of time cleaning. The plenum was sooooo dirty. Just ended up taking a wire brush to it and getting what I could. Not a full polish job but much better than it was before.



Also Scott from Zshack gave a recommendation to go with the 740cc injectors instead of the 615cc's, which I did, along with the adapter kit.

I've also been wrestling with the steering rack, trying to get the seals out of the housing, and holy crap is it hard. It's been cold lately and is just starting to warm up, but not sure that'll make much of a difference. Need to get a heat gun and try that way. Just can't get the rack gear to slide out past the seals. There's more than likely going to be a write-up done once I get it all done.



BTW, these are a SOB to get busted loose:

I had to use a pipe wrench, box wrench, and a machinist's vise to get one side. One slip and I'd have thrown the stupid thing across the garage.


Didn't get a lot done this week because mother nature decided to throw a curveball.


Oh, and my wife OK'd the purchase of JWT Sport 530's. They'll be here next week. Mike Smith is personally assembling them tomorrow.

Good progress man, I actually spent all last Sunday dropping the engine and trans in, 25 minutes for the engine, 5 and a half hours to wrestle in the trans from below but I did it all by myself.

Got the clutch pedal in without having to pull the dash :

I took the little hvac side vent off that runs into the door and you've got a pretty good angle with a couple of extensions and a universal joint. I spent like an hour trying to do it from underneath and it just wasn't happening.

Also got timing belt and accessory brackets installed. It's getting close! Parts list is getting shorter and shorter!

Oh, and I got the rack rebuilt. I eyeballed the alignment when reinserting the pinion gear, so hopefully I don't have a crooked steering wheel, lol.

Ace2cool wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 29, 2018 3:44 am

Got the clutch pedal in without having to pull the dash :

I took the little hvac side vent off that runs into the door and you've got a pretty good angle with a couple of extensions and a universal joint. I spent like an hour trying to do it from underneath and it just wasn't happening.

Also got timing belt and accessory brackets installed. It's getting close! Parts list is getting shorter and shorter!

Oh, and I got the rack rebuilt. I eyeballed the alignment when reinserting the pinion gear, so hopefully I don't have a crooked steering wheel, lol.

Nice!
Two of the worst Z32 jobs right there, especially the under-dash work.
Looking like I MAY be also working under the dash myself as I am losing a little water and pressure from the cooling system, and no visible puddle or leaking anywhere and no coolant in the oil and overflow OK...leaves only the GD heater core which is the worst job possible.

I'm praying that my coolant loss was in my blown turbo. I really done wanna pull the dash.