Brakes locking up while driving **NEED HELP ASAP**

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
facebraith
Posts: 1
Joined: Thu May 19, 2011 6:52 pm
Car: 2001 Infiniti I30

Post

I have a 2001 Infiniti I30, and I just started having the exact same problem. Brake pressure doesn't seem to be releasing, and as I drive, the brakes lock up. After the car cools, the wheels spin freely again. What gives?


gwennguyen
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2011 9:51 am
Car: 2001 infiniti - i30

Post

I have a 2001 Infiniti I30 with the same problem - front brakes lockig up. I've disconnected the ABS system but that did not do the trick. Has anyone fixed the problem? Please post.

7jpat
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2011 6:00 pm
Car: 90 240sx

Post

wow add me to the list , just took my booster back today for warranty , ill know by saturday

7jpat
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2011 6:00 pm
Car: 90 240sx

Post

ok guys problem fixed i got my new booster in , the other one was new i dont think it was bad , started searching on forums , its the check valve that needs to be replaced i ordered it from
http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-OEM-S13-S ... 15267.html

i got it today and put it on problem solved they work normally :naughty: :biggrin: :chuckle: :mike :bowrofl: :woot:

hope that helps

lobatoG20
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Jul 21, 2013 2:05 pm
Car: 2000 black infiniti G20

Post

Hey guys I have the exact same problem with my 2000 G20, I tried looking for that check valve but it doesnt have it, do you have any other ideas?

carsonbasye
Posts: 1
Joined: Thu May 08, 2014 6:19 pm
Car: '90 300zx na
'98 Dodge Dakota

Post

anyone find the answer?
I have a '90 300zx, and it has the same problem. all the brakes lock up. at first it was only after it heated it up, but now its until i open the bleeder valve, and compress the pistons, only to lock up the previous brake while bleeding them. Ive replaced the master cylinder, and the booster check valve. anything? what is it? i just wanna drive my baby

cpistocco
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Jul 15, 2015 12:05 pm

Post

I had same problem.... Turned out to be the brake switches under the dashboard at the brake pedal. They were not allowing the pedal to return up all the way... Pulled pedal up....and everything self adjusted!!!

mrwqualls
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Nov 29, 2015 9:06 am
Car: 07 pathfinder 2x4

Post

this may or may not help......was towing small trailer with wife's puke finder, 2007 2x4, drove several counties away, later that night realized brake lights weren't working, checked fuse, figure trailer blew fuse, fuse was good, knew they WHERE working day before........puke finder wasn't expierincing brake issues YET.... anyway, i isolated problem to brake switch on pedal intermittently working.....went to autozone down street from home and got new switch $36.....simple unplug twist remove install and back on road, as I left I notified pathfinder was harder to accelerate, kept going, each stop you could feel brakes drag worse.....barely made it 1 mile home, brakes locked HARD......next morning could move it about 3 feet.......removed new brake switch and reinstalled old one, bang drives just fine brakes released......it's a 4wire plug, 2 are for lights, other 2 are vdc/slip computer, new switch was backwards on open/close contact on slip computer.....causing brakes to apply and not release........beware of that switch I'd say failure of Vdc side contacts will cause similar symptom

hlarralde
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Aug 09, 2016 1:22 pm
Car: 2008 nissan maxima

Post

I had the evaporator core from my 2006 maxima replaced. the technician had to remove the lower dash completely for the repair. Now the brakes do not release and the fans are not turning on. Does anybody know why this might be?

User avatar
centralcoaster33
Posts: 2769
Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:41 am
Car: 240SX #5-1997
Location: Central Coast, CA

Post

Welcome to NicoClub guys. I hate to 'bump' this thread up again, but... Some of you are first time posters (you can see the post count on the right side, below the users name) and are posting in a very old thread (this was created back in 2006, see page one, upper left hand corner of first comment) that was created for a completely different car (240sx). You'll notice none of these recent posts were responded to. Feel free to start your own thread in a forum for your model of car. You will get more responses, more views and a better experience in general with the forum.

Fuzzing
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2018 7:40 am
Car: Nissan Rogue

Post

dracodrift wrote:
Sun Apr 24, 2011 9:58 pm
mine are working now and make sure that your brake light switch gives your pedal enough room to come up it helps :rotfl
HA!! Thanks! I had this problem and YES, this was the fix.
I replaced my brake light switch. When I installed the new brake switch, I just pushed into the hole ALL THE WAY and gave it the necessary 1/4 inch turn. Brakes were locked up. I was flummoxed...

I was tempted to start pulling off wheels, brakes, pads, bleeding the system, replacing the master cylinder, booster, ...set the car on fire... but a voice of reason told me to "Wait" and think things through a bit. My wife's voice that is. So I found this thread and it saved me time, $$, and my sanity.

Yes, I pushed the brake switch too far in. :crazy:

ca18det_boy
Posts: 1384
Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 10:47 am
Location: Homestead, FL
Contact:

Post

Adjust the master cylinder rod and ensure that the brake light switch hasn't loosened up.

amc49
Posts: 1183
Joined: Mon Jun 19, 2017 7:24 pm
Car: '11 Nissan Versa
'17 Nissan Altima

Post

There is a very small pinhole size port in the back of the M/C that absolutely MUST be kept open, often called the 'compensation' port. It allows fluid to equalize pressure in the system when heat makes it increase greatly. If the booster has been changed then the rod must be at least checked for length, they are commonly adjustable and you set them to give a max of 1/16" of clearance before the rod contacts the M/C piston. If not then set too long it blocks that port to lock the wheels up solid as the brake fluid cannot backbleed and then the brakes lock because they have no fluid venting.

Checking that rod is a lost art and most have not a clue to adjust them.

gigrbite
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2018 10:43 am
Car: nissan 350z

Post

i have fixed this problem and its very simple.
my brakes would progressivly start to lock up as i was driving.i also noticed that my brake light were on.
here is the fix for both.
on the brake pedal there are 2 rubber/plastic bumpers that help activate the cruise switch and the brake light switch. those bumpers were missing from both cruise switch and brake light switch.
i decided not to use the factory bmprs/bushings and used 2 flathead 10mm screws and nuts.
Completly cured my light problem and my brake lock up. problem.

gigrbite
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2018 10:43 am
Car: nissan 350z

Post

there must be some kind of saftey feature built into the car that is alarming you that something is wrong with either the cruise circut or brake light circut,by locking up brakes.

gigrbite
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2018 10:43 am
Car: nissan 350z

Post

I have the fix
on the brake pedal arm at the point where the cruise switch and brake light switch touch,there is a plate with 2 holes,well in those 2 holes there should be 2 rubber/plastic bushings. if those are missing that will cause a slow progression of your brakes to drag and eventually lock up.
I had the same problem.
what I did to fix it was I used 2 - 10 mm flat head screws and nuts to replace those bushings. I have a pic of the repair but I don't know how to attach it.
apparently there is a safety feature in the design to lock up brakes if u have a failure in the brake circuit or cruise circuit.
if you happen to have found some black round plastic pieces on your drivers side floor,thats where they came from.


Return to “240SX Technical Forum”