Alright you guys seem to be curious, so I will leave an update or two along the way...
Here is the latest.
ChaseBays is very difficult to get good communication from in the past 17 emails I have sent. I keep telling Chase that I want to have a phone conversation about the numbers I am seeing in my spreadsheet. He has been acting evasive for some reason, with excuses every time. Only on the 19th email did he agree to setup a time with me this week to talk... We'll see how that pans out... Im actually not quite sure I would buy his BBE kit, even if we can get the numbers to make sense at this point, simply due to the poor communication, compounded by various other reports of same on the web.
In the mean time, I ordered a reman booster from my local auto store. For a 95 240SX/S14 5spd NONabs.
I sat down and compared it next to my D22 booster in order to see how it would fit etc etc. The D22 uses a 0.200" aluminum spacer between the booster and firewall. I noticed the threaded rod on the S14 booster is a bit shorter than on the D22, but if I subtract the thickness of the firewall spacer, it ends up being the same and the clevis position is unaffected. Then I checked to make sure the booster didn't interfere with the firewall if I avoided using the spacer... that mounted up flawlessly with about 1/4" clearance to a pinchweld where the firewall is mated to the cowl area that houses the wiper linkages at the base of the windshields. Booster diameters are the same, each close to 9" or so, so no change in interferences in a radial direction. Hmm... wonder if the mastercyl bolts up? Yup, sure does, exactly the same, even the pushrod stickout was the same. Only difference is the vacuum hose goes to the drivers side of this booster, where the D22 vacuum connection was on the psgr side of the booster, but putting a longer hose in is easy enough.
Long story short, it was truely a bolt in affair, with the exception of the brake lines between the MC and ABS block, which obviously required some adjusting to compensate for the MC that has now moved rearward a total of 2.200". But, that was no problem, I just gently adjusted the bends on those lines and put them right back where they go.
So that's the solution I am going with for now. I get to keep the stock master cyl, and therefore stock bias valve and calibration, and I have somewhat of a booster, but i get an extra 2.2" to work with, which is just on the edge of where I wanted to be.
I am still going to try to talk with Chase to see how the numbers work out, because I ultimately think I would like that setup better if I could make sure it was safe. My main concern is too much pedal effort required, which you could compensate for by lowering the mastercyl bore, but then you're also lowering the amount of brake fluid displaced, so the pedal would likely travel closer to the floor than normal to acheive the same braking pressure. Its a big darn balancing act basically with any of the variables.
Until I get the engine reassembled or built, I cant comment on the braking feel, but at least I know it would be the same if the booster failed, because in that case youre essentially deleting the booster, and only relying on the master cyl, which is a valid consideration when the OEM designs a braking system to ensure that minimal margin of ability to brake and slow the vehicle.
Any questions let me know, I'll check back in soon with another update.
And, i would like to upload a few pics to support, im doing all this from my android phone and cant see a way to just add pics to my post, unless im just missing something... anybody have advice for a guy without a photobucket account or the like?
Hope yall have enjoyed the weekend.