Brake bleeding troubles

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KoopaTroopa
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Joined: Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:24 am
Car: 1991 black hatch

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A few things:

First, installed new rear calipers on the car. When pulling up on the E-Brake there's a strange resistance to it. Feels almost like a vacuum in the cylinders holding the handbrake down. (this could just be the feeling of fresh new return springs on the calipers though, not sure)

Second, I realize now I did not follow the correct pattern, (i did RR, RL, FL, FR). That being said after trying to bleed the system i could only get the front calipers to sputter and spit, nowhere close to a steady flow. I'm going to try again today going the correct way (RL, RR, FL, FR then ABS)

Third, after repeated brake pumping a good number of bubbles and sometimes a little fizzle would form up at the top of the master cylinder reservoir. It also it would sometimes send a bit of vapor out from the reservoir as well.

My help would pump around 10-15 times without feeling much of a pressure increase, is that too many pumps? Should I have the cap on the reservoir while pumping/bleeding?


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biggie
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Car: '16 Q70L/'14 Q60S Vert/'19 Armada/'09 FX35
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How are you bleeding? Pumping and trying to drain by yourself? Seems you still may have air. I'd recommend a self bleeder tool, love mine that hooks up to air tank. But I've also never bleed one that had ABS.

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KoopaTroopa
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Car: 1991 black hatch

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Housemate sitting in the car, pumping about 10-15 times. Me asking "are they firming up", with him saying no not really. He'll hold the pedal flat, i'll open /close the bleeder about 1/4 turn for no longer then a second or two. He did say can feel the pedal loosen up as I open it. We tried a good 10-20 times on the passenger, then 20-30 times on the driver side without getting a steady flow. I still only seem to get 50/50 air and fluid sputter similar to when you run out of water in a super soaker.

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biggie
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Car: '16 Q70L/'14 Q60S Vert/'19 Armada/'09 FX35
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Seems like an air bleeder would work better, something isn't working with your bleeding method.

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KoopaTroopa
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Car: 1991 black hatch

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Thanks, yea i'll try gravity bleeding each wheel for a good while and see if there are any improvements. If not, its time to buy some bleeding tools i guess.

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coolbone28
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Your bleeding order is still wrong. It goes (according to fsm)
right rear>>>>left rear>>>>right front>>>>left front. I know some people go back and forth about which rear to start with. I think I've even started with the Left rear, but thats just what the fsm said. And just to make sure, RIGHT is passenger...LEFT is driver side.

Also make sure your ign. is off and for ABS it says to disconnect the actuator cables or (-)battery cable. It helps too if you can get a clear hose to fit over the valve openings and let it drain back into a bottle. That just makes it easier to see if the air bubbles are gone. Don't forget to keep that master FULL at all times. It can get down pretty quick sometimes and let air in.

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KoopaTroopa
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Car: 1991 black hatch

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Maybe i'm highly dyslexic but
Image

I did forget to say s13 if that makes a difference.

Figured out some more things:

Bled the rear calipers correctly the first time, and only took about 3 or 4 pump/bleed cycles. These were new calipers also so they were 100% air.
The fronts however keep kicking out a foamy mix every time I try to bleed them. Gravity bleeding did a good job of getting air bubbles out, however as soon as I push down the pedal i get more bubbles.
My guess... Master cylinder
I only get bubbles out of the front, never the rears. I'm assuming that the master cylinder operates in 2 stages, one for the front then one for the rear. I bet the o-ring for the fronts went bad.

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coolbone28
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Whoops my bad. ya i have an s14 and just had that fsm up...soorry bout that. Its weird that the process would be that different. I was going to suggest the master if you kept getting random bubbles. I think it has the proportioning valve in it too so , something is prolly messed up. sounds like your doing it right from everything else. good luck tho.

compactfean
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Joined: Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:28 am
Car: 89 240sx s13 sr gt3071r 23psi
B14 sentra ser sr20de-t 7psi
daily
Location: reno nv

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Sometimes when dealing With new parts and if at any point ion time master went dry crack the bleader first and then have buddy push pedal to the floor and hold it then tighten bleeder before he lifts. That helps clear the whole line foam and all. Also before these steps try tapping the caliper. It lets the air bubbles rise to the bleeder. If you got air in the ABS system you will need to check the fsm because some cars need a scan tool to bleed the ABS system.

compactfean
Posts: 2602
Joined: Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:28 am
Car: 89 240sx s13 sr gt3071r 23psi
B14 sentra ser sr20de-t 7psi
daily
Location: reno nv

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Haha! Never mind....no scan tool, just read the above post.

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1KleenS13
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I would try and let it gravity bleed for awhile (just crack the bleeders with your foot off the pedal and let them drip), then after thats done i would go back and bleed them with a buddy. pump 3 times, hold and bleed. No need to pump 15 times or your going to aerate the fluid and make it harder to bleed. If the ABS needs to be bleed your gonna probably need a scan tool to actuate the valves.

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KoopaTroopa
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Joined: Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:24 am
Car: 1991 black hatch

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Thanks for the help, it was definitely the master cylinder. Car can finally stop on a dime.


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