Hey Nissan fam. I'm helping out a buddy of mine who bought a Z that has been sitting for around 4 months. It drove fine for the first two days, but now it struggles to make power when you hit the gas. When I depress the pedal the RPMs won't rise, but they will rise immediately after releasing the gas. We thought it was the MAF, but we took it out and ran without it and it still struggled. Any ideas? Fuel is clean and pressure is good. I've got a vid up if anyone wants to see.
150k miles, VG30DE, 1995
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDF4IrA ... e=youtu.be
Bought a sitting Z
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nissanfreak12
- Posts: 1709
- Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:07 pm
- Car: 92 300zx 2+2 TT
- Location: Denver, CO
Re: Bought a sitting Z
Check the ECU for codes.
HOw does it idle? Is it hard to start? Cold? Hot? Vac leaks?
Have you messed with anything after getting it? Have you checked the plugs for corrosion, even though 95's are not as prone to it as the older ones.
4 Months is honestly not that long of a time for it to sit, some have been a couple years or longer, but still need to check the obvious hoses, wiring, ecu, plugs, t-belt, etc.
HOw does it idle? Is it hard to start? Cold? Hot? Vac leaks?
Have you messed with anything after getting it? Have you checked the plugs for corrosion, even though 95's are not as prone to it as the older ones.
4 Months is honestly not that long of a time for it to sit, some have been a couple years or longer, but still need to check the obvious hoses, wiring, ecu, plugs, t-belt, etc.
Re: Bought a sitting Z
It idles perfectly fine hot, but it does have occasional trouble staying on with a cold start. The only thing he's done is change the oil and spark plugs and that was after it started running bad. We checked codes and got 34 and 12. I'm gonna check the wires for the knock sensor tomorrow. The hoses and etc seem in order, but it can't hurt to double check the wires and plugs. Any hot spots I should check for the wires? Thanks for help and quick reply btw.
Re: Bought a sitting Z
Since the car threw code 12 (maf sensor), I'd suspect that. Make sure the contacts are clean on both the sensor and harness. I like to use some electrical contact cleaner and then dielectric grease.
Test it as shown here: http://s3.photobucket.com/user/BigLou96 ... m.jpg.html
If that seems OK, I'd examine the TPS (throttle position sensor).
Test it as shown here: http://s3.photobucket.com/user/BigLou96 ... m.jpg.html
If that seems OK, I'd examine the TPS (throttle position sensor).
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nissanfreak12
- Posts: 1709
- Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:07 pm
- Car: 92 300zx 2+2 TT
- Location: Denver, CO
Re: Bought a sitting Z
Injectors, coilpacks, CTS, MAF, basically all are prone to it. Like I stated before, only the earlier models were prone to the corrosion issue.
What plugs did he use? Z plugs are very specific, especially the TT's. Auto part store generally do not carry these plugs, you need to either purchase them through the dealer, Conceptzperformance, Z1, Specialty Z, and some tuner shops have them. The plugs from the parts store are too short compared to the actual ones.
https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan- ... _p_291.php
Yes, they are expensive, but most everything is expensive about these cars.
Code 12 is MAF- This will cause issues you are describing could be a bad connection, corroded wires, or a bad MAF. If you buy a new one, make sure it has N62 on the side. Otherwise it will cause issues.
Code 34 is the knock sensor-chances are the wire is broken, or the sensor itself is broken apart. This is normak after years of heat and cold cycles. It is a big job to replace, best thing to do is relocate until you have the engine apart or time when it is down.
What plugs did he use? Z plugs are very specific, especially the TT's. Auto part store generally do not carry these plugs, you need to either purchase them through the dealer, Conceptzperformance, Z1, Specialty Z, and some tuner shops have them. The plugs from the parts store are too short compared to the actual ones.
https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan- ... _p_291.php
Yes, they are expensive, but most everything is expensive about these cars.
Code 12 is MAF- This will cause issues you are describing could be a bad connection, corroded wires, or a bad MAF. If you buy a new one, make sure it has N62 on the side. Otherwise it will cause issues.
Code 34 is the knock sensor-chances are the wire is broken, or the sensor itself is broken apart. This is normak after years of heat and cold cycles. It is a big job to replace, best thing to do is relocate until you have the engine apart or time when it is down.